21,400 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Two things to immediately reduce moisture loss:

1. Shade. Do it right now. Outdoor chairs are handy for shading.

2. Reduce foliar area. Do it right now. It is the leaves, not the canes, that lose water. I would start at the top of the canes and remove about half of the leaves. If the other leaves haven't unwilted by morning, take off some more.

It's easy to transplant roses when they are dormant, but much harder in the heat of summer.

    Bookmark   July 25, 2013 at 5:06PM
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seil zone 6b MI

Keep them well watered but be careful not to drown them either. Too much water can be as bad as too little. Shade and leaf removal will help keep them from wilting so much. Be patient. I've moved a lot of roses in the heat of summer and they do survive if you give them time to adjust. Do not fertilize them until you see good new growth on them. That will tell you that they've replaced their lost roots and are ready to be fed.

    Bookmark   July 25, 2013 at 5:29PM
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susan4952(5)

My moonstone was soooo picky.

    Bookmark   July 23, 2013 at 5:48PM
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RD8005

Try 'Prairie Star' a Griffith J Buck shrub rose. Has a strong apple fragrance and holds up well to rain with some red spotting of the petals. It holds up well in dry conditions also. It is, like all white or light colored blooms, Japanese Beatle attractor if you are affected by them. It will last a long time after cut and in a vase and with debudding produces a nice flower. It is a constant bloomer and will produce flowers on a nice long stem with disbudding.
I also have found success with HT Pascali.

    Bookmark   July 25, 2013 at 3:21PM
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Krista_5NY

Thank you, Racin. I'm zone 5 and it's quite hardy here. It forms really substantial canes. I grow it as a freestanding shrub, but use mini-trellises and stakes to support some of the canes.

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 9:48AM
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anntn6b(z6b TN)

My first JG was grafted onto multiflora rootstock and became just what it was supposed to be : large and vase shaped and loaded with blooms.

It was simply wonderful and darned near broke my heart when it got RRD.

But I waited, and left the land fallow for two years and then replanted it, because it belongs where I'd chosen to plant it. And I will keep replanting it there if this replacement gets RRD, because it's that great a rose.

    Bookmark   July 25, 2013 at 1:34PM
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seil zone 6b MI

Lol, I do this too! They're actually handy for a lot things around the yard.

    Bookmark   November 11, 2012 at 4:08PM
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sandeeppj

The yard signs Promote your business or special event with Yard Signs from SignRocket.com. It offer a full line of Yard Signs from low cost one color Poly Sleeves all the way up to Full Color corrugated plastic Yard Signs.

Here is a link that might be useful: www.signrocket.com/yard-signs.aspx

    Bookmark   July 25, 2013 at 11:28AM
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nickl(Z7a NJ)

Some Hybrid Teas - and to a lesser extent some floribundas - mutate ("sport" in rose parlance) into climbing forms. If these mutations turn out to be stable, they can be commercially produced. Not all varieties do this, of course, because it is dependent on the genetics of the original.

Climbing HTs and climbing floribundas have the same bloom,as the bush form . The major differences are, (1)the relatively longer canes on the climbing forms, and (2) that the blooms tend to appear on laterals rather than only at the terminals. Generally speaking, they tend to not bloom as profusely as the bush forms - although there are some exceptions. It is these characteristics, rather than the width of the plant, which differentiate the climbing form from the bush form.

"Tiffany" has a climbing form that is still in commercial production. Looking at your photo, I would say that is what you have.

    Bookmark   July 25, 2013 at 9:36AM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

The bush form of 'Tiffany' is tall and capable of producing basal canes up to about six feet long. I haven't seen the climbing sport, but a rough definition of "climber" is that it produces basal shoots > 7'. So the OP can tell which form he has by checking the unbroken length of basal shoots (that is, not counting laterals that came out at leaf joints after pruning or deadheading).

    Bookmark   July 25, 2013 at 10:33AM
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alameda/zone 8

I have a friend who is an excellent gardener and she is a big believer in pruning almost every plant. I have started pruning back alot of things, even cutting blooms off annuals I buy - this takes the stress out of blooming and the plants can make roots - then bloom. It works great.

I have Knockouts, including the yellows which I love. I do prune them back and they just keep blooming. It neatens them up - I also disbud regularly. Dont give up on your roses. They are wonderful with the perennials you describe. Buy a Belinda's Dream if you can find one - totally disease free and blooms constantly. Find some composted manure [I raise horses so have lots], put on alfalfa pellets, cottonseed meal, use Miracle Gro and fish emulsion fertilizer........I have a Graham Thomas rose that has frustrated me with no blooms. A rose nursery told me to fertilize it with Carl Pool BR-61 - sure enough, it started blooming. Dont whack your roses back too much, maybe a third. Keep them watered then watch the new growth come on. It is amazing what roses will do when fertilized. I once read - roses are hogs - feed em. Roses make such a lovely addition to other annuals and perennials - I will bet with some pruning, watering and fertilizing, you will see good results. Be sure and water before you fertilize. Good luck!
Judith

    Bookmark   July 20, 2013 at 11:33PM
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linnea56(z5 IL)

Thanks for the help! I did deadhead them. But have not done much cutting besides that. I'll give it a try, plus the fertilizer.

    Bookmark   July 25, 2013 at 8:29AM
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strawchicago(zone 5a)

Hi forensicmom: There's a thread in the Antique Roses Forum on the same topic, see link below. Good luck, I hope it helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: Japanese Beetles thread

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 7:17PM
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cecily(7 VA)

Hey Forensic Mom, aren't you in the DC area? I'm in northern VA along the I-95 corridor. My JBs are just about done for the year. The beetle bag went into the trash on Monday and I'm just catching a few strays in soapy water. Hang in there!

I wouldn't cut back anything, just water deeply since we haven't had much rain lately.

    Bookmark   July 25, 2013 at 6:20AM
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seil zone 6b MI

I know of many people who have done what you describe with not problems. Not with teas, mind you, but just the same I don't think it will hurt them at all. I move my roses around all the time and I've never lost one because of it. I usually only lose roses to winter kill here.

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 3:25PM
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Campanula UK Z8

Agreed, Seil. Just regard it as normal planting and move at an appropriate time (winter) doing the usual bare-root thing (cutting back hard, lifting, transplanting during dormancy). If their is no effective winter dormancy, retain as much of the rootball as possible during the move.

    Bookmark   July 25, 2013 at 2:49AM
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Mendocino_Rose(z8 N CA.)

To my eyes the bloom is pretty. This is a rose that my husband planted a long time ago. It has actually risen to above the roof of the shop and lives year after year without receiving summer water.

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 9:59AM
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bart_2010(8/9 Italy)

I am beginning to think that Kordes roses are very good here in my hot, dry garden in Tuscany, Italy.To me, Harlekin's flowers are beautiful,and the mass display it gives is fantastic. Laguna is another one that gets a high vote for the way it covers itself in blooms. Jasmina did, too, but it's in a difficult spot and just put out so much green growth this year that the blooms were kind of limp (I think it's still getting established). bart

    Bookmark   July 25, 2013 at 2:32AM
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Kippy(SoCal zone 10. Sunset Zone 24)

Score!!!!

The boss is thinking about hiring a guy to do the "collecting" part. I offered the trash cans and the hauling off part.

Bet the roses and the pumpkins will be happy. (and the compost bins will be full)

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 10:40PM
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Campanula UK Z8

well, Sally, I would happily use (uncontaminated) manure from an animal which was essentially vegetarian but fresh faeces from a carnivore is just not going to happen (cos I do root around continually)......or I could just poo on them myself -and when my composting toilet is up and running in the woods, I will be using 'nightsoil'- but you can bet it will have composted down for half a year (and not used on edibles either). Perhaps the cat-litter does something to 'enhance' or remove the terrible whiffiness.....or perhaps our cats are just naturally stinky when crapping, (my old collie sure is) but I honestly admire your fortitude and can-do attitude.

    Bookmark   July 25, 2013 at 2:27AM
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cecily(7 VA)

I grew Beaute Inconstante from Vintage probably a decade ago. The blooms resembled photo 1 (quite small and shapeless). After a couple of years, it didn't improve and its long gone. The foliage was nice but the blooms were too small to satisfy me.

    Bookmark   July 22, 2013 at 1:54PM
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g-in-fl(9a Florida)

Yes, thonotorose, they are both Papa Gontier as it turns out. I have had the top one about a year, and it has never balled. Yesterday it put out the most gorgeous DARK red bloom. I think it is because i put about an inch of pine bark in the top of the pot a couple weeks ago. that combined with all the rain we've been having might account for the improvement in its' appearance. The lighter bloom is from plant number 2 (the one I bought as Papa gontier).

I think I'll put pine bark on that one also.

Cecily,
I have a genuine Beaute Inconstante on the way, so I hope the flowers grow to a decent size in Florida. I'm beginning to understand how a single variable can noticeably impact a plant.

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 7:06PM
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mgleason56(Michigan 5b)

As far as Charles de Gaulle goes, I gave up on it own root after 3 years. Very weak and not a good recovery from winter. I still grow this variety, but from Palatine, and is a much better plant grafted than own root. How about Purple Beauty? I have that own root and it does really well. Not sure about the fragrance.......

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 3:37PM
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diane_nj 6b/7a

Dearest Patrick (how goes?). Own root HTs are pooches here, and I don't recommend them. I much prefer grafted on R. multiflora. That said, I would think Neptune would be a good grower own root. It does well for me on Dr. Huey. Very fragrant, larger blooms than my Lagerfeld. Bon chance!

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 4:05PM
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seil zone 6b MI

Could be Crimson Bouquet. I got mine in a two pack from costco a couple of years ago. The other one in the pack was Strike it Rich but that one didn't make it.

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 3:08PM
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milkyj

Seil, I checked the description of Crimson Bouquet and some pictures. Yes it looks very much like one! Wow! Thank you so much. Since you got yours from Costco as a two-pack thing, chances are even better! The other rose in the pack didn't make it for me either.

Again, thank you for giving my rose a name.

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 3:59PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

I don't disagree with what Seil says. I fertilize until Oct. 1, so that fertilizer is available until local roses wind down sometime in November.

If you fertilize with slow organic sources of nitrogen, you have little control over the amount of nitrogen in the soil moisture at a particular time. However, some N will continue to be released in the fall from spring and summer fertilizing. The rate of release will slow down as the temperature drops, which is fine because the plants will be using less nutrients anyway. I wouldn't apply slow organic fertilizer in the fall unless I expected roses to continue to grow through most of the winter.

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 3:38PM
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mgleason56(Michigan 5b)

I was getting ready to post and then saw Seil's and it is EXACTLY what I would have written.

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 3:42PM
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roseseek

Ants don't "eat" rose petals. As Michael said, something else chewed up the petals, releasing sap which is sugary. The ants eat that sugar, just as they eat the honey dew from aphids and other sucking insects. Figure out what chewed up the bloom, deal with it and you should prevent the ants from being attracted to the blooms.

I always had that issue with the green roses (Greensleeves, Mint Julep, Sheila MacQueen, etc.) as the petals were heaven for aphids. They would provide their honey dew after sucking out the sap from the petals and the flowers would be full of ants. I dealt with the aphids and the flowers were ant free. Kim

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 12:43PM
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bart_2010(8/9 Italy)

I better try to get a better photo. I keep on thinking thrips. I used to have absolutely TONS of aphids on my roses,but the blooms seemed fine. Then,these nasty Oxythyrea funesta beetles invaded. In hopes to get rid of them, I started spraying a systemic insecticide,Confidor.It did nothing to stop the beetles(if anything, made them stronger!) but got rid of the aphids completely. Now, I have all these crummy looking blooms on some of my light coloured roses. I've completely stopped spraying insecticide; I've gotten the impression that my roses began to look worse once I started spraying. But I could see using a systemic via irrigation on specific plants,if it would be effective against the specific scoundrel that's doing the damage.
I will try for a better photo,but it may have to wait for next year at this point; my rose season is basically over. regards and thanks, bart

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 3:39PM
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