22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
kittymoonbeam

Happy Birthday Boris and Natasha!

Thanks Diane for the help about the size of the bush. I am going to try to get mine to own root in a 15 gallon can. Fun to get a bareroot after buying bands recently. I loved the old days when the nursery got the Weeks rose shipment in and we sorted them and put them in long rows in the shadehouse.

    Bookmark     November 26, 2013 at 2:40AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
everyrose(z7-8 pnw)

Hoovb--I just got my Ascot from Palatine too! Along with 8 other roses. They all look to be great plants with parsnip like roots.

Diane--Thanks on the size of Ascot. Helpmefind has it as being 0.0065' to 1" high! I figured it would be a small rose (but not that small!) maybe 2 to 3 feet high. I will be sure to give it plenty of room now.

    Bookmark     November 27, 2013 at 11:28AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
henry_kuska

"The virus used in this study was obtained from naturally
infected plants of Rosa rugosa âÂÂCharles AlbanelâÂÂ."

This is all that I could find in the full paper. It does refer to a 2011 paper:

  1. Lockhart B, Zlesak D, Fetzer J (2011) Identification and partial characterization of six new viruses of cultivated roses in the USA.
    Acta Hortic 901:139��"147
    Since the 2011 paper has Jodi Fetzer's of the New York Botanical Garden name as one of the authors, perhaps the sample came from there. Please notice that this is only a "PERHAPS".

"Recently, we described a virus with spherical particles [8] associated with one of several new foliar diseases of rose. The virus was named Rosa rugosa leaf distortion virus (RrLDV) after the typical symptoms associated with infection by this virus. Both the disease and the virus were graft transmitted from diseased to healthy R. rugosa, suggesting that RrLDV is likely the causal agent of the disease (our unpublished results). The objectives of this study were to characterize the RrLDV genome and
determine its taxonomic and phylogenetic relationship to
known viruses."
-------------------------------
H.Kuska comment; I am frustrated that so many of these individual papers offer so little information of usefullness to the average rose grower. Possibly the editors pressure the authors to be as consise as possible.

    Bookmark     November 26, 2013 at 3:39PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
henry_kuska

Dave Zlesak has commented on a future publication that appears to be more consumer orientated.

http://www.rosebreeders.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=54298

Here is a link that might be useful: link for above

    Bookmark     November 26, 2013 at 7:47PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
nicholas_delo

Understood about the not pruning now. I was planning on spring for maintenance, as this is normally when I prune my roses.

I was just looking at them the other day as was thinking "hmmmm I wonder what to with them this spring." And so, I posted the question.

Thanks for all the replies!

    Bookmark     November 24, 2013 at 8:26AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
kittymoonbeam

I agree with the feed and water the first year before heavy pruning in later years. Enjoy your plants. Iceberg should get a So. CA flower special award. It has a huge popularity here.

    Bookmark     November 26, 2013 at 6:58PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
pat_bamaz7

I absolutely love that bug!!! Thanks for sharing.

    Bookmark     November 26, 2013 at 10:33AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

Hopefully thats a good insect...lol
Cool item! :-)

    Bookmark     November 26, 2013 at 11:00AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
nippstress - zone 5 Nebraska

Obviously, now isn't ideal planting time, particularly if the ground is starting to freeze like ours and it's hard to dig the holes. If you have to plant a rose this late in the season, at least it's a bare root that's dormant and hopefully can just stay dormant during the winter. In essence, you're keeping them in the deep cold condition that Palatine had them in before shipping. Mounding some soil around them helps protect the graft, and make sure you plant that graft (the knobby part with the canes growing from it) at least 2-4" below the natural soil level.

In future years, you'll have less hassle if you request that the roses be delivered in spring. Bareroot roses should be planted in whatever is early spring in your zone, as the crocus and early daffodils are blooming, if not before. For me, that's early April or in a good year, late March.

Cynthia

    Bookmark     November 22, 2013 at 4:04PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
susan4952(5)

Agree with Cynthia. 100 percent as usual.

    Bookmark     November 26, 2013 at 12:11AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dublinbay z6 (KS)

Come on, camp--tell us how you really feel, why don't you?

LOL

Kate

    Bookmark     November 25, 2013 at 6:35PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
canadian_rose(zone 3a)

LOL
Okay, you win. :)
Carol

    Bookmark     November 25, 2013 at 9:28PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
seil zone 6b MI

I don't protect anything in the ground any more, Kate. Those are on their own for the winter. The only ones I protect are the pots. They don't have the same root insulation in the pots that the ground ones have so I give them the extra leaf protection.

Although, last winter I had a bunch of seedling pots that I had culled but never actually threw away. As an experiment I let them winter on the side of the house unprotected. Remarkably about half of them survived. Some of them were already in pretty large pots but a few of them were just gallon size pots and they lived. That was both good and bad because then I didn't have the heart to toss them, lol!

    Bookmark     November 25, 2013 at 3:57PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dublinbay z6 (KS)

OK--difference between in ground and in pots. I get it. Since all my roses are in the ground, I don't have to worry about protecting them--though my HTs aren't overly happy having to play Darwinian survival--but they pop right back after I spring-prune them down to 6-12 in. tall (occasionally even shorter, if needed).

Kate

    Bookmark     November 25, 2013 at 6:34PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
marcindy(z5b, Indianapolis, IN)

9ft by 7ft? Wow... do you think you accidentally got a climbing version of Jude? The catalogs list the final size around 4ft... I wonder if others who grow Jude have observed a similar size after a few years?

Given that Jude might reach those enormous sizes I decided to go with Tamora instead, though I have a different spot in mind for which a bigger Jude would be perfect.

I am going to order for the second quadrant:

Old Wollerton Hall
Tamora
Lady of Shallot
Molineux

Thanks so much for all your help!!
Marc

    Bookmark     November 25, 2013 at 8:28AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
nanadollZ7 SWIdaho(Zone 7 Boise SW Idaho)

No, this was not a climbing Jude--it doesn't exist as a true climber. It's going on 10 years old, and I don't think Austin even listed "climbers" as that time in its catalog (I could be wrong on that). Your colder climate or other factors might limit Jude's size some in your garden, though. Jude is very upright with stiff canes and has no support structures, so I can't imagine trying to bend those canes to make it conform to a support of some kind. Diane

    Bookmark     November 25, 2013 at 2:26PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
joshtx(8a)

I can't believe she isn't a member of Gardenweb! Or if she is, I don't see her post.

Josh

    Bookmark     November 23, 2013 at 4:37PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
monarda_gw

I have this one on my feedly!

    Bookmark     November 25, 2013 at 12:06AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
SouthCountryGuy Zone 4b-5 SE BC(Zone 4b-5 SE BC Canada)

Thanks for the explanation. What I have learned is a blanket statement can't be made. If you are in zone 5 and just bought a knockout and can possibly can get it in the ground it is probably better there. The thermal mass against temp extremes is better.

While the choice of planting at this time of year, in cold zones, doesn't appeal to some the reality is that if it won't live in the ground it probably will die in a pot, if not heavily protected. So, as many nurseries suggest, if you can get it in the ground do so.

SCG

    Bookmark     November 24, 2013 at 9:29PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
henry_kuska

I purchased for many years (since the early 70s) from Pickering and followed their fall planting instructions. In general it worked out well but sometimes I had problems.

My purchases were normally winter hardy roses that knew how to shut down for the winter. I never had much sucess (fall or spring) with what I call J and P type, Texas, California Dr. Huey budded, big box store, hybrid teas that probably were virused.

    Bookmark     November 24, 2013 at 9:45PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dublinbay z6 (KS)

And thank you, sand and kim.

Should I confess to having been a teacher until I retired a couple years ago?

Your assignment is for both of you to produce in-text links by next week--just so we can all celebrate your success! OK? Gold stars await you!

Kate : )

    Bookmark     November 24, 2013 at 7:05PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
roseseek(9)

You're welcome, Kate, thank you! No "confession" necessary. Congratulations on your retirement. I have the utmost respect for educators and find what's being done to far too many these days through scripted learning, "no child left untested", etc., a genuine sin. I'll dig around for something worthy of double links. Thanks! Kim

    Bookmark     November 24, 2013 at 8:48PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
seil zone 6b MI

They're going dormant. Perfectly natural. Snow is a good thing! It's the best insulator there is. If you can be sure there will be good snow cover all winter and into early spring just leave them alone. If not you can still go ahead and mulch them over the snow that's there now. The object of winter protection is to keep them dormant through the spring when the temps start bobbing up and down. You want them to stay dormant until true spring arrives and there is no more chance of a deep freeze. You will still have some cane die back from the cold and winds but the plant itself should survive and grow back.

    Bookmark     November 24, 2013 at 4:19PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dublinbay z6 (KS)

Michael, the article is located near the bottom of the web page--not much more than is shown above, however.

Kate

    Bookmark     November 24, 2013 at 11:34AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
henry_kuska

Page 2

"Armillaria is fairly easy to diagnose on a tree or shrub when the bark can be separated from the trunk and inspected for the flattened, whitish mycelial growth. This might be a bit more difficult to accomplish given the slender stems and thin bark of roses, but certainly not impossible. Oftentimes the best approach is to submit a complete sample to the PDIC through your local Extension office. If in fact a tree or shrub in your landscape is infected with armillaria, the best course of action will be to remove as much of the trunk and roots as possible, and for a couple of years replant the site with annuals, perennials, grasses or other non-woody plants.

The viral disease rose rosette was also a topic of conversation at the training session. This is considered to be an emerging and fairly serious disease, with variable symptoms that can be tough to diagnose in the field. An excessive number of thorns along the stems should make you suspicious of rose rosette, but as with armillaria a sample to the PDIC might be the best way to confirm.

Tom Glasgow is the Craven County Extension director. Contact him "

    Bookmark     November 24, 2013 at 11:41AM
Sign Up to comment
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™