22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Seil ...
The buds won't swell in one or two days ... lol. I usually don't prune until April. However, this year, the forsythia had come and gone before the first of April. Spring came a month early to my mountains.
I am just doing a very light prune this year as I don't want to encourage new growth because of the drought.
Smiles,
Lyn
Lol, this is why I gave up on ground markers and started wiring the tags on to the base of the plants. I can't tell you how many markers got lost before I came to this new method. I found some copper tags on line and I just use a PTouch labeler to print the name and stick it on the copper tag. Then I use a nice long piece of green twist tie to secure it to one of the canes. Don't tie it tightly because you don't want to injure the cane but it's worked very well for me. I haven't lost a tag since doing this.
Thamk you both! As for water, perhaps I rely too much on the auto watering thats's for grass , trees, etc. I will be vigilant this season to hand water root area daily, along with a good spray for any diseases. I only have twelve (thus far!), so easy to do. As for nutrients, I've only used Bayer and Miracle Grow. Adding small bit of coffee grounds this year. My only really tall bush is Gene Bourner...a 7-8 footer. Oh! I once read ( here?) that cutting long stems ( at the 3 leaf juncture) delays blooms. True?
Again, TIA !!
P.s. all my roses are rated excellent for disease resistance.
First off, don't necessarily give up hope on all the roses. Some might start growing late. Different roses can have different growing rates.
Secondly, if there is growth near the base, prune back to where there is healthy growth. Then water and feed as usual. Right now--unless you are in some extremely northern zone where there is still freezing weather forcasted.
(What gardening zone are you in? It would help us direct more specific advice for your roses.)
Let us know in about one month how things are going. I'll bet you will have good things to report.
Kate
I think I am going to wait another week or 2 then cut them hard and fertilize them heavy. Since they are grown on their own roots the new growth should not be effected by this winter. I am very surprised at how hard all varieties of knockout have been effected though.
I think I am going to wait another week or 2 then cut them hard and fertilize them heavy. Since they are grown on their own roots the new growth should not be effected by this winter. I am very surprised at how hard all varieties of knockout have been effected though.
Late to the thread, but at my old house, Madame Isaac Pereire from an Heirloom band grew to about a foot the first year, about 2 feet the second year and over 5 feet tall and wide the third year, very bushy and not the long graceful canes I was hoping for. She was planted on a west wall, with about 6 hours of sun a day. A perfect example of 'First they sleep, then they creep, then they leap.' I took her out because she took over the space, and the flowers came out just when the summer heat arrived, and I only had crispy little balls of magenta unless I cut them in the morning. I should have just figured a way to give her some afternoon shade.
Here is a link that might be useful: Garden at the Modern House
Thank you for responding, actually MIP is doing well in that spot with very little sun. She is about 3ft now and has some blooms that haven't bloomed yet. Its the Prince that has given me one bloom since being planted next to her in a corner spot. Burgundy Iceburg and Stormy Weather bloomed well for me in the shaded area as well.
The roses themselves will chase them away.
"Abstract
In warm weather, Macrosiphum rosae (L.) walks off buds of hydrid tea roses during a 'critical period' coinciding with the opening of the sepals. This behaviour could not be related to histologically detectable barriers to feeding, nor to changes in the water content of the tissues or in their composition with respect to total soluble carbohydrate, amino nitrogen or phenolic compounds; major changes in tissue chemistry, effected by spraying the bushes with urea, did not affect the time at which the aphids left the buds.
'Tissue sap' expressed from stems and sepals showed a significant increase in catechin content after rather than during the critical period. Once expressed, however, sap from buds at the critical stage showed a sharp in vitro rise in catechin content over a few hours, up to levels approximating those against which the insects discriminated in choice tests. It is proposed that the insects could well be sensitive to a developing capacity of tissue to accumulate catechin, possibly in response to their feeding activity."
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
Yep. Adding to the Get Ladybugs vote. . .I get them every year, and they do a wonderful job of clearing out the aphids before they can become a real problem. Spider mites, too. Amazon has them. Make a small spray bottle with 1/2 Coke and water, and spray it on the ladybugs to keep them from flying away. It'll wear off in a day or so. Also, do keep them in the fridge at least a couple of hours before the release, and release at dusk. The fridge will make them sleepy, and they'll wake up in your garden to eat.
This post was edited by HollyKline on Sun, Apr 20, 14 at 10:53
Don't know if climbing roses are different for propagating, but if not, at least you can try to propagate new rose plants with all those trimmings you did. In the end, you can have many more, all growing nearby, for a massive planting effect.
What Bart said!