22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I don't protect anything in the ground any more, Kate. Those are on their own for the winter. The only ones I protect are the pots. They don't have the same root insulation in the pots that the ground ones have so I give them the extra leaf protection.
Although, last winter I had a bunch of seedling pots that I had culled but never actually threw away. As an experiment I let them winter on the side of the house unprotected. Remarkably about half of them survived. Some of them were already in pretty large pots but a few of them were just gallon size pots and they lived. That was both good and bad because then I didn't have the heart to toss them, lol!
OK--difference between in ground and in pots. I get it. Since all my roses are in the ground, I don't have to worry about protecting them--though my HTs aren't overly happy having to play Darwinian survival--but they pop right back after I spring-prune them down to 6-12 in. tall (occasionally even shorter, if needed).
Kate
9ft by 7ft? Wow... do you think you accidentally got a climbing version of Jude? The catalogs list the final size around 4ft... I wonder if others who grow Jude have observed a similar size after a few years?
Given that Jude might reach those enormous sizes I decided to go with Tamora instead, though I have a different spot in mind for which a bigger Jude would be perfect.
I am going to order for the second quadrant:
Old Wollerton Hall
Tamora
Lady of Shallot
Molineux
Thanks so much for all your help!!
Marc
No, this was not a climbing Jude--it doesn't exist as a true climber. It's going on 10 years old, and I don't think Austin even listed "climbers" as that time in its catalog (I could be wrong on that). Your colder climate or other factors might limit Jude's size some in your garden, though. Jude is very upright with stiff canes and has no support structures, so I can't imagine trying to bend those canes to make it conform to a support of some kind. Diane
Thanks for the explanation. What I have learned is a blanket statement can't be made. If you are in zone 5 and just bought a knockout and can possibly can get it in the ground it is probably better there. The thermal mass against temp extremes is better.
While the choice of planting at this time of year, in cold zones, doesn't appeal to some the reality is that if it won't live in the ground it probably will die in a pot, if not heavily protected. So, as many nurseries suggest, if you can get it in the ground do so.
SCG
I purchased for many years (since the early 70s) from Pickering and followed their fall planting instructions. In general it worked out well but sometimes I had problems.
My purchases were normally winter hardy roses that knew how to shut down for the winter. I never had much sucess (fall or spring) with what I call J and P type, Texas, California Dr. Huey budded, big box store, hybrid teas that probably were virused.
And thank you, sand and kim.
Should I confess to having been a teacher until I retired a couple years ago?
Your assignment is for both of you to produce in-text links by next week--just so we can all celebrate your success! OK? Gold stars await you!
Kate : )
You're welcome, Kate, thank you! No "confession" necessary. Congratulations on your retirement. I have the utmost respect for educators and find what's being done to far too many these days through scripted learning, "no child left untested", etc., a genuine sin. I'll dig around for something worthy of double links. Thanks! Kim
They're going dormant. Perfectly natural. Snow is a good thing! It's the best insulator there is. If you can be sure there will be good snow cover all winter and into early spring just leave them alone. If not you can still go ahead and mulch them over the snow that's there now. The object of winter protection is to keep them dormant through the spring when the temps start bobbing up and down. You want them to stay dormant until true spring arrives and there is no more chance of a deep freeze. You will still have some cane die back from the cold and winds but the plant itself should survive and grow back.
Page 2
"Armillaria is fairly easy to diagnose on a tree or shrub when the bark can be separated from the trunk and inspected for the flattened, whitish mycelial growth. This might be a bit more difficult to accomplish given the slender stems and thin bark of roses, but certainly not impossible. Oftentimes the best approach is to submit a complete sample to the PDIC through your local Extension office. If in fact a tree or shrub in your landscape is infected with armillaria, the best course of action will be to remove as much of the trunk and roots as possible, and for a couple of years replant the site with annuals, perennials, grasses or other non-woody plants.
The viral disease rose rosette was also a topic of conversation at the training session. This is considered to be an emerging and fairly serious disease, with variable symptoms that can be tough to diagnose in the field. An excessive number of thorns along the stems should make you suspicious of rose rosette, but as with armillaria a sample to the PDIC might be the best way to confirm.
Tom Glasgow is the Craven County Extension director. Contact him "
Interesting. If it were me I think I'd wait at least a year before replanting but...I'm not sure what good planting them 6 feet apart would do either. It may slow it down some but If the mite is there chances are 6 feet isn't going to do much.
When several of my roses (but NOT my two Double Knock Outs) came down with RRD, I waited until the following early spring to replant in the same spots, but only because I was ordering bareroots which are sent in late March/early April. Whether that 6-9 month wait was needed, I have no idea.
The several cases of RRD did NOT spread to any adjacent roses. In fact, each case happened in a different year and to a rose nearly on the opposite side of the garden.
I think we still do not know enough about this disease to make very many safe generalizations about it.
Kate
It's funny. I've gone thru about 5 plants of ANVIL SPARKS over the yrs. The first one was the best and I had it when we lived down the hill where it was warmer. The subsequent ones all either just died, or sat there at about 2" and never grew and then died. I got two new ones from Burling this spring, and they're both bigger than any of the previous plants. I'm hoping one of them will be ok and grow and produce some nice big fat blooms just like that one that Kathy showed! That's beautiful!!
I've sent Burling many cuttings of many roses over the years (and I gave her a new batch on Sunday when she came down to speak at our auction extravaganza). Don't know if she is propagating from my plant or not, but if she is, then you got a good one. My Anvil Sparks and I get along great for some reason and always have, although I have heard that others have had their problems.
The rose that I've lost and would really LOVE to find again was Sue Lawley. Anyone grow it?
Thanks Seil,
The hole we (not really me) dug is huge, It's probably 30 in. in diameter and also 30 in deep. Better safe than sorry, , , I hope.
As I said, I knew nothing of Falstaff. After researching a bit, it seems the best I can hope for is a rather spindly and stingy with blooms plant. But that's okay. I'll just hide it behind a leafier rose. It's worth it, for the beauty of the bloom..
andrea
Notice: What follows is an uneducated opinion, and therefore not subject to debate, lol. In other words, since I'm presenting it as opinion, I don't have to argue it with ANY of you. It is not presented as fact. If you have issue with any of the specifics, go debate it with a trained geneticist.
Opinion:
Johann demonstrated that the first generation, F1, will demonstrate dominant traits where dominant traits are in either gamete. Overly simplified for summary purposes, yes; however, the point is that F1 should not be where we look for traits or where we make summary conclusions about offspring.
End opinion.
My thanks to Palomar Community College for their page linked below.
Here is a link that might be useful: Mendel's Genetics
Obviously, now isn't ideal planting time, particularly if the ground is starting to freeze like ours and it's hard to dig the holes. If you have to plant a rose this late in the season, at least it's a bare root that's dormant and hopefully can just stay dormant during the winter. In essence, you're keeping them in the deep cold condition that Palatine had them in before shipping. Mounding some soil around them helps protect the graft, and make sure you plant that graft (the knobby part with the canes growing from it) at least 2-4" below the natural soil level.
In future years, you'll have less hassle if you request that the roses be delivered in spring. Bareroot roses should be planted in whatever is early spring in your zone, as the crocus and early daffodils are blooming, if not before. For me, that's early April or in a good year, late March.
Cynthia
Agree with Cynthia. 100 percent as usual.