22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Late to the thread, but at my old house, Madame Isaac Pereire from an Heirloom band grew to about a foot the first year, about 2 feet the second year and over 5 feet tall and wide the third year, very bushy and not the long graceful canes I was hoping for. She was planted on a west wall, with about 6 hours of sun a day. A perfect example of 'First they sleep, then they creep, then they leap.' I took her out because she took over the space, and the flowers came out just when the summer heat arrived, and I only had crispy little balls of magenta unless I cut them in the morning. I should have just figured a way to give her some afternoon shade.
Here is a link that might be useful: Garden at the Modern House
Thank you for responding, actually MIP is doing well in that spot with very little sun. She is about 3ft now and has some blooms that haven't bloomed yet. Its the Prince that has given me one bloom since being planted next to her in a corner spot. Burgundy Iceburg and Stormy Weather bloomed well for me in the shaded area as well.
The roses themselves will chase them away.
"Abstract
In warm weather, Macrosiphum rosae (L.) walks off buds of hydrid tea roses during a 'critical period' coinciding with the opening of the sepals. This behaviour could not be related to histologically detectable barriers to feeding, nor to changes in the water content of the tissues or in their composition with respect to total soluble carbohydrate, amino nitrogen or phenolic compounds; major changes in tissue chemistry, effected by spraying the bushes with urea, did not affect the time at which the aphids left the buds.
'Tissue sap' expressed from stems and sepals showed a significant increase in catechin content after rather than during the critical period. Once expressed, however, sap from buds at the critical stage showed a sharp in vitro rise in catechin content over a few hours, up to levels approximating those against which the insects discriminated in choice tests. It is proposed that the insects could well be sensitive to a developing capacity of tissue to accumulate catechin, possibly in response to their feeding activity."
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
Yep. Adding to the Get Ladybugs vote. . .I get them every year, and they do a wonderful job of clearing out the aphids before they can become a real problem. Spider mites, too. Amazon has them. Make a small spray bottle with 1/2 Coke and water, and spray it on the ladybugs to keep them from flying away. It'll wear off in a day or so. Also, do keep them in the fridge at least a couple of hours before the release, and release at dusk. The fridge will make them sleepy, and they'll wake up in your garden to eat.
This post was edited by HollyKline on Sun, Apr 20, 14 at 10:53
I would put them in the ground by the end of this weekend. Do what mad gallica says and if the canes aren't waxed and you have something like wilt-pruf, spray it on the roses just to be safe..
I think they'll be fine.
This post was edited by kidhorn on Fri, Apr 18, 14 at 13:35
I've gotten bare roots in the past that broke dormancy. Just plant as soon as you can. I've also dosed them with B1 to help the roots lessen the shock a bit and never had a problem. Just make sure to water them deeply after they are in the ground and keep an eye on them over the next few weeks, if we get a good rain with a few cloudy days, I feel like it helps them establish as well.
Also I asked for the shipment earlier than the vendors preferred but that way I could control when to plant.
That looks great Christopher. You are going to be rewarded for your hard work with great soil and roses.
One of the dead roses I had to dig up was in a spot I've been amending with just compost and mulch for a few years. The previous red clay was more like fluffy cake mix when I dug into it. It was so nice......
My mulch is so beautiful.....About 5 or so yards of horse manure in my driveway. Will wait to spread till after kiddies have Easter Egg hunt. It smells like roses to me. But to some of the Mommies it may not. Best gift, I have gotten in years. Wow! Am I just dancing. Yeah it will bring up a few weeds, but I am prepared for them.
We have plenty of moisture being in PNW, but I still like 3 to 4 in. down.
Love to you all, you MULCHERS!
You can cut back to the graft (if it's grafted) or to the root ball. This winter was very hard on my roses and even after pruning off what I thought was all the dead stuff, I would see new brown and black on canes that looked healthy before. Just keep cutting back until you see white pith (the filling in side the cane. Anything brown or black or reddish should come off. Roses are very resilient. Some that I cut down to nothing a few weeks ago pumped out new growth and have buds already.
I cut a Tropicana down as far as I could, thinking to dig it out since it's such a miserable mildew magnet. I did not have the strength to dig it and just left it to rot in the ground, which of course it did not do. Instead it sprouted healthy new growth. It's not sucker growth either, its Tropicana. Give it a try.
jasminerose, that's such a gorgeous picture. Would you please tell me the name of these beautiful roses? It looks somewhat like Annie Laurie McDonnell, but of course there are umpteen fluffy pink roses. The lilac-pink colored roses and blue vase are perfect partners.
Ingrid
Much of the time, I simply snap off or cut the spent flowers at the point of abscission, that "joint" where the peduncle joins the cluster stem. It's where the hip or dead ovary (if no hip forms) usually falls off by itself. I do it simply to maintain the look of the plants. In my climate, they don't usually form hips, but they can if you're in a cooler, damper area. I allow them all to grow where they want for much of the summer so they generate a fuller display. Of course, if you're more neurotic about forcing them to grow where you want them to grow, or if they are in restricted spots where you can't generally allow them to grow where they want (such as obstructing paths, etc.) you can prune them above the leaf bud pointing in the direction you want/need them to grow in. In these parts, they are healthier, more vigorous and in color much more of the time if you allow them to do what they want. It's usually a lot easier and prettier to let them take the lead, too. The more leaves on the plant, the more food it produces, hence the healthier it is with more flowers, so if you can let it grow as it wants for the season, it will reward you with a prettier, more continuous show.
If you just want to, or must prune it, take it to the bud pointing where you want it to grow. Otherwise, remove the ugly flowers and leave it alone until "pruning time", when you can take off what you want. I usually don't remove more than about one third of the plant unless I must due to space, damage, etc. I hope that helps give you ideas how to manage your Icebergs. Kim
I cut them back a little after every round of bloom, about 12" or a little more, rounding off the plant every time so it looks shrubby. Over the long growing season here, they maintain a prettier appearance that way. The repeat bloom is better, though the interval is a little longer. Just my personal preference. Of course, mine are very well established (14 years). Young plants, less is better.
One factor to consider is how fast the fertilizer breaks down into a form that the plant roots can make use of. One thing about "organic" fertilizers is that they must first break down via soil bacteria, fungus, earthworms...so timing would be effective if you knew how fast the nutrients make their conversion--or if you used an instantly available chemical fertilizer--maybe foliage feed--if you believe in foliar feeding...
A study done by the UC agricultural division found that roses have their maximum need for nutrients when they are in full bloom. This study was done in greenhouse conditions with the roses in a hydroponic solution. The amount of fertilizer absorption was precisely measured by seeing how much fertilizer was removed from the hydroponic solution by the plant roots, allowing for degradation, evaporation, ect. So giving roses a quick acting fertilizer at full bloom might give you maximum results.
However, simply providing moderate, steady amounts of nutrients in the form of compost and regularly applied organic fertilizers will likely do just as well. Experiment and see what works for you.
Oh how I love the enthusiam, photos, and sharing on this thread! Thanks all!!! I love lavender roses with a passion. So far my experience has been that I can grow them beautifully, no spray in my semi-arid garden. You've started off my morning on such a happy note! Thanks again. :-)
GROWTH INHIBITOR ACCUMULATES IN THE NUTRIENT SOLUTION OF CLOSED SYSTEM ROSE CULTIVATION"
"See:
http://www.actahort.org/books/697/697_66.htm
Here is a link that might be useful: Link for article that roots give off an ihhibitor
Thanks Socks,
I can move the plant around (morning sun on right side of deck and afternoon sun left) if I can just be diligent about it. I am hopeful. Hope you get the mildew under control.
I never met an 'Iceberg' that didn't Blackspot badly. It has a lot to do with climate, of course....