22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
One factor to consider is how fast the fertilizer breaks down into a form that the plant roots can make use of. One thing about "organic" fertilizers is that they must first break down via soil bacteria, fungus, earthworms...so timing would be effective if you knew how fast the nutrients make their conversion--or if you used an instantly available chemical fertilizer--maybe foliage feed--if you believe in foliar feeding...
A study done by the UC agricultural division found that roses have their maximum need for nutrients when they are in full bloom. This study was done in greenhouse conditions with the roses in a hydroponic solution. The amount of fertilizer absorption was precisely measured by seeing how much fertilizer was removed from the hydroponic solution by the plant roots, allowing for degradation, evaporation, ect. So giving roses a quick acting fertilizer at full bloom might give you maximum results.
However, simply providing moderate, steady amounts of nutrients in the form of compost and regularly applied organic fertilizers will likely do just as well. Experiment and see what works for you.
Oh how I love the enthusiam, photos, and sharing on this thread! Thanks all!!! I love lavender roses with a passion. So far my experience has been that I can grow them beautifully, no spray in my semi-arid garden. You've started off my morning on such a happy note! Thanks again. :-)
GROWTH INHIBITOR ACCUMULATES IN THE NUTRIENT SOLUTION OF CLOSED SYSTEM ROSE CULTIVATION"
"See:
http://www.actahort.org/books/697/697_66.htm
Here is a link that might be useful: Link for article that roots give off an ihhibitor
The Tulsa Rose garden, at one time one of the largest in the United States, has revised it's RRV fatality list from 1/2 of the roses infected last fall to 2/3 of the roses infected with this years new burst of spring growth. Even more roses (100%?) may be infected and eliminated from the garden. They will not replant display roses until some sort of viable solution is found. Until then it will be planted with other ornamentals. They have plans to be a test garden for resistant RRV roses, but I don't know if they will follow through with that. Ironically the initial large breakout of RRV started in a long hedge of Knockout roses. They have had small outbreaks off and on for years, and I remember confirming my first case of RRV back in 1988 with the park horticulturalist. Last year I lost more roses then usual myself. Currently I do not have plans to replace them either. The mites are carried on the wind, and if there is anything Oklahoma has in abundance it's wind. Sad to see over 3,000 roses destroyed at this once beautiful park by this disease..........Maryl
This appeared in Sunday's Tulsa paper.
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
Hmmm....that's interesting! We don't have an attic in our garage - but I imagine you could just have it lift them up to whatever height you want - for example onto a shelf. I'm going to show this to my husband. Thank you so much for thinking of me!! :)
As to the grafts - I did at first - but now I don't, and there's no need. Our garage is insulated and we cover with a lot of blankets. Right now there's snow outside - but I've taken off the the blankets from the roses. The canes are such a lovely green color. They are so pretty to me - just the canes alone. :)
Hope your garage lift goes well - and I'll tell my hubby. Thanks!!
Carol
I don't really have a loft, it's more a four foot high area over part of the garage. Good thing I am short, but what's a little aching back for more roses. I was just admiring my lovely green canes this past weekend. Did you ever take the temp in your garage this past winter? Mine is insulated on two sides so I think it should work. After looking at your picture of Queen of Sweden I had to have one. Thanks for posting it.
If you can bend one of the canes so that that part of the cane can buried for several inches, it wiil form roots at that point. See:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/hil-8701.html
Here is a link that might be useful: link for layering article
I used various hardy low-growing genarniums (e.g, Geranium Rozanne) and ceroposes (e.g., Mercury Rising) and lots and losts of laveders to fill in the empty spot between my roses. It has worked well for me so far (about two years) as none of these appears to an agressive competitor to the roses. (The bonus point is that they are supposed to be "deer proof"/"deer resistant" although "my" deer seem to eat anyting and everything when hungry....) I have a very small gardening space (thanks to the roaming deer) so I try to fit in as many plants as possible in my fenced front yard. I dislike mulch as space fillers, but my ideal garden could be a weedy eyesore for those more organized.. This year, I am adding chives among the roses, which is supposed to repell pests.
Let us know Susan how it works for you. Good luck!!
Oh too bad redwolf. Maybe you could play paint with the white stuff. Paint a happy face on your hand. Make it "talk" etc. Then paint one on her hand. Don't make any notice of the splinter. In fact do a face on each of your hands and each of hers (starting with the nonsplintered hand). You could maybe even put in some food coloring in it so that it doesn't look white - then maybe she won't connect it with the first white stuff. Hope you can get it out this way for her. :)
Redribbons - yes make sure you have baking soda for the thorns.
Seil - it's STILL snowing. :(
Carol
Just snap or rub them off with your fingers. The plants will grow new shoots, no problem. There is a good reason to remove them. They are using carbohydrates stored in the canes rather than getting their nutrients from the root system and sunlight (because the root system isn't doing anything right now), so they are stressing the canes a bit.
Is this a climber, handg? If so, could it be Crimson Glory, Climbing?
Here is a link that might be useful: Full photo
Much of the time, I simply snap off or cut the spent flowers at the point of abscission, that "joint" where the peduncle joins the cluster stem. It's where the hip or dead ovary (if no hip forms) usually falls off by itself. I do it simply to maintain the look of the plants. In my climate, they don't usually form hips, but they can if you're in a cooler, damper area. I allow them all to grow where they want for much of the summer so they generate a fuller display. Of course, if you're more neurotic about forcing them to grow where you want them to grow, or if they are in restricted spots where you can't generally allow them to grow where they want (such as obstructing paths, etc.) you can prune them above the leaf bud pointing in the direction you want/need them to grow in. In these parts, they are healthier, more vigorous and in color much more of the time if you allow them to do what they want. It's usually a lot easier and prettier to let them take the lead, too. The more leaves on the plant, the more food it produces, hence the healthier it is with more flowers, so if you can let it grow as it wants for the season, it will reward you with a prettier, more continuous show.
If you just want to, or must prune it, take it to the bud pointing where you want it to grow. Otherwise, remove the ugly flowers and leave it alone until "pruning time", when you can take off what you want. I usually don't remove more than about one third of the plant unless I must due to space, damage, etc. I hope that helps give you ideas how to manage your Icebergs. Kim
I cut them back a little after every round of bloom, about 12" or a little more, rounding off the plant every time so it looks shrubby. Over the long growing season here, they maintain a prettier appearance that way. The repeat bloom is better, though the interval is a little longer. Just my personal preference. Of course, mine are very well established (14 years). Young plants, less is better.