22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Nice :)

Beautiful bloom of Oklahoma, love the color. Kitty - I love that painting too.

The rose in the picture is spent and has dried severely like what happens when there is extreme heat. It appears also to be stunted also possibly indicating great heat. Here in SoCal I had some roses that fried sort of like this on 100 degree days when no matter how much they were watered it wasn't enough. Again, I attribute this to the poor soil which I haven't been able to amend nearly enough and the root systems that were not developed enough.

The rose is fried. I get fried and crispy here every year July through Aug. Sept they start to return back to nice looking roses, when it gets below 90. This happens to all of 35 of them including the climbers. The roses get plenty of water & fert and all are about 8 years old, but it doesn't seem to matter. Scorching hot is not good for the blooms, that's about it.

Luckily my land is not THAT far; it's about a 30-to-40 minute drive from home (I don't drive fast, btw, and in any case, on snaky hilly roads,one sort of has to go slow...)I can keep tools there, in this big ,ugly metal construction built by the previous owner,but I wind up keeping the most-used ones in my car a lot of the time.Sadly, I have no place to stay over there, and in any case my DH and son have different enthusiasms!
By mounding I mean the concept of protecting a newly -plante bare-root rose with a mound of material around it's base, placed so that only the tips of the canes stick out. Usually people say to use soil for this, so picture a mound of soil covering the graft union and the lower parts of the baby canes.So, it's like a mulch, protecting the roots a bit, but it's also protecting the canes.Now, for some reason, in my garden, I have had trouble with canes rotting under the mounds: well, to be honest, this only really happened that one year that I mentioned in my first post. Someone suggested using manure/organic matter as the mounding material (I believe it was a lady in New England, USA) Well, for me, this was a disaster. I lost so many baby roses that year; they got canker or just plain rot that spread down to the graft... This really spooked me. Last fall, I tried using peat moss, thinking it would be less prone to bacteria, but again got spooked, seeing how uber-soggy it became under the mounds.So, I un-mounded all of the babies, and re-mounded them , using a mixture of wine corks, pieces of styrofoam,held in place by gravel and sand.This worked. Clearly, it's important in my garden to keep the canes fairly dry and the roots moist.I say, IN MY GARDEN, because from various rose forums, I see that for many-most?-people, this cane-rot stuff has never been a problem! I suspect it may have something to do with the climate here. I think that it's not just low temperatures that come into play.Here in Italy, we can get some wild temperature fluxes, even from day to night, just because, when the sun comes out, it can be so hot. Now, in November, it's so low to the horizon, and besides, it's been raining so much,so it's a very stable environment for newly plante roses.But our winters can offer some dramatic temperature swings. To give an idea, last winter, we had some very heavy snow; at least a foot deep. During the days after it had fallen, the sun came out, and I remember shoveling deep snow,sweating heavily, wearing boots, snow pants (because of the wet, cold snow), and only a shirt on top! But then, the sun goes down,the temperature plunges,all the stuff that melted under the hot (relatively speaking) sun freezes into ice,and then can't really start melting again until the afternoon of the following day.Do you see where I'm going with this? My land, exposed to the south-west, is going to get quite warmed up during a sunny but cold winter day, and then freeze during the night. The road that I have to travel-facing north-could remain un-passable by me for a couple of days-or more, considering the extremes we've been having in weather in recent years.Instead, I think England tends to have a more consistent climate,; I don't think you'd have the same toasty-sun issues there that we have here in Italy. As you yourself say, Campanula, "everything shuts down into a hibernating limbo". Here, it often doesn't! I still have flowers;many roses still have leaves,most of them have the little leaf buds on them...my Okame cherry tree actually RE-BLOOMED. So, it's very confusing as to what the best course might be...which is why I started this thread in the first place.Discussing things can help clarify ones ideas,and I'm grateful to you and all forum members who participate. regards, bart

Your roses do not need to be protected against cold, unless basal shoots appear at an inappropriate time. Remove the new growth buds as I suggested above.

Your roses do not need to be protected against moisture loss as long as it is cool, damp, and cloudy, but you can protect against moisture loss by applying an anti-transpirant at dormant strength at a time when it will dry quickly, as I suggested above.

There is no need to mound in your situation.

I only grow a few hybrid teas, and they are mostly oddballs, except for my two Big Purple roses, which I don't recommend. I do like very much Frederic Mistral if you have the room (easily six feet and more, both directions). Great scent, pretty light pink rose that is always in bloom. Here is Fred with his neighbor pal Jude (the Obscure). Diane

KingCobb this roses are lovely... I fall love :)

Here is a link that might be useful: importer odzieży używanej

Great story, thanks for the link.

"And he has 1,600 rosebushes packed into less than a quarter of an acre in his backyard."

:^)

That's great for him! I'm glad to see he is using his success to give back. We need more people of such character in the world.

My only issue with the article is that the remarks made are so critical of roses, saying they have a "well-deserved finicky reputation," and that they, "require weekly spraying."

Not I, say my antiques. Cramoisi Supeurieur, Duchesse de Brabant, Crepuscule, Souvenir d'Elise Vardon, none of them have a speck of disease on them or require coddling. And they have fragrance to boot, unlike Knockouts. Rattled my cage a bit there. I sincerely hope people begin to understand there is more to roses than just Hybrid Teas.

If this negative belief continues to be propagated because rose growers will not branch out and grow roses which inherently have disease resistance, form, and fragrance such as Rugosas, Teas, Chinas, and Polyanthas, then the general public will continue to believe roses are not worth the time and we will see more small nurseries collapse like Vintage. Then we will have no choice but to buy from places like J&P which use pesticides and fungicides like life support to keep their roses alive enough to bloom.

It's a shame, really.

Josh

People do that all the time here without to many problems besides them growing back slowly the following season.

But it is a bad practice for sure and one I do not personally follow...
So I agree with what Michaelg and others have said.

My parents have the mow and blow guys whack the ever loving heck outta our Knockouts each year. They always rebound with a vengeance. Knockouts are extremely hard to kill. I wouldn't repeat the procedure, but I seriously doubt they'll kick the bucket.

Josh

Andrea, just in case you are interested in another option for dealing with Agrobacterium tumefaciens, I'm posting the link below, which is basically suggesting rotating a resistant species in the area where the galled plant was. According to the article at the link, "Growing a nonsusceptible crop, such as grass, for three years can essentially eliminate the bacteria from the soil".

Melissa

Here is a link that might be useful: Virginia Exten., Crown Gall of Woody Ornamentals

Thanks Tessiess,

I've seen that option mentioned. Actually at that very site. That site suggested letting the soil 'rest' for a few years. I really like university sites. The problem is that it's a raised bed with only roses. It's probably the best option for the soil. But it wouldn't look great with 7 roses and a bunch of pansies. (a joke, of course)

The spot is the furthest back in my yard and is behind other roses The pot would therefore be 'hidden' from view.

Thanks so much for answering,

andrea

Further clarification:

There were two truths in the "It Ain't True" fun.

It is true that Roses Unlimited has a 96% customer satisfaction rating.

(And really, does anyone not understand what that means?) Although I don't participate in such surveys, I completely agree. So my vote would help take the percentage HIGHER.

It is also true that Roses Unlimited is regularly listed on the Watchdog Top 5 list for roses.

This means they are in the Top 5 most highly regarded sources in their specialty. I also agree that this recognition is well deserved.

Thanks for clarifying, Sandandsun. You're right that I didn't catch the humor the first time around, though I can see it now that you point it out. Sometimes the printed word doesn't carry those nuances of meaning as easily (we need an emoticon for "eye roll" or "wink wink" I guess). Anyway, I figured you had good things to say about RU and I'm glad at least Susan caught the humor on the first bounce.

I like your confirmation of the two truths, since they are such a good company. In case newbies log into this, they will hear a clear vote of approval from this thread. It never hurts to err on the cautious side out here on the web.

Cynthia

Roderick, just remembered that there is a yellow Carefree Sunshine that comes from the same breeder and is very disease resistant--looks kind of like the Sunny Knock Out. I don't know much about it--maybe it isn't quite tall enough for your purposes--not sure. You might check it out below and post a query here if you are interested.

Kate

Here is a link that might be useful: Carefree Sunshine at helpmefind.com

My two Julia Child roses are 6 X 6 feet. I can't believe those puny size predictions even in zone 6. In this pic, the smaller rose down in front is Bernstein-Rose, about the predicted size of JC. The actual Julias are farther up the sidewalk. You can see the size difference easily. Diane

I don't have any full sun area's in my yard, but I have my roses in as much sun as I have. Each bush gets several hours a day except for Country Dancer.
I bought Country Dancer because it was was supposed to do well in shade, but so far mine hasn't bloomed a lot.
This is probably the problem since they aren't too close together and are definitely not over fertilized.

Roses are sun-lovers--usually need at least 6 hours of sun a day. If you don't really have much sun, I'd recommend you switch over to hydrangeas--they are gorgeous and usually like part sun/part shade to nearly full shade.

Definitely, deprived of sun, most roses will be weaker and more spindly and bloom less and probably get more bs disease. The roses that "tolerate" shade usually still need at least 4 hours of direct sun--but "tolerate" does not mean they will thrive in that area--just that they will survive.

Good luck.

Kate

Thanks Kim, I'll look into it and post what I find out

Good Morning Zidane,

The import of plant material into Canada is currently reglulated by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency's Plant Protection Division (CFIA). I believe a decision was just recently made by the Canadian government to transfer Plant Protection responsibilities back to Agriculture Canada, but I'm not certain when that will happen.

Your best plan of attack would be to contact the Oregon Department of Agriculture and tell them what you wish to do. ODA will be the ones who inspect your roses and provide you with the required Phytosanitary Certificate for export to Canada. They will also know what the certification requirents are and what the Phyto must attest to.

Once you have things organized with ODA, I would suggest that you contact the CFIA in Vancouver and discuss things with a Program Officer with the Plant Protection Program in that office.

When you are ready to move the plants to Canada, you will have to present them and the Phytosanitary Certificate to a Canadian Border Services Officer. They may choose to hold them for inspection by CFIA at the border, or more likely let you move them through for inspection by CFIA at destination.

The good news is that no Import Permit is required between Canada and the U.S. I import roses from Oregon and other U.S. nurseries often.

The CFIA has an online web system called the "Automated Import Reference System" (AIRS). As with all things scientific regulated by governments, plant import requirements are complex. AIRS allows you to access requirements for specific species and types of plants from various places and determine admissibility and import requirements. I have inputed a search for roses, with soil from Oregon to be imported into British Columbia for planting. The result is pasted below:

______________________________

Recommendations to CBSA/Documentation and Registration Requirements

Refer to CFIA-NISC(must be accompanied by the following documents\registrations):•Phytosanitary Certificate

Importer / Broker Instructions

DOCUMENTATION INSTRUCTIONS

PHYTOSANITARY CERTIFICATE
- Obtain from Country of Export prior to importation.

CONDITIONS OF IMPORT

The Phytosanitary Certificate must accompany the shipment.

The material must be certified free from Columbia Root Knot Nematode (MELOIDOGYNE CHITWOODI).

1)The phytosanitary certificate must bear one of the following additional declarations:

"The material was produced and prepared for export in accordance with the conditions of entry specified in Quarantine Directive 82-01 of February 1, 1982."

or

"The soil originated in an area in which, on the basis of official surveys, Meloidogyne chitwoodi does not occur."

Requirements for European brown garden snail (Cornu aspersum, syn. Helix aspersa):

The Phytosanitary Certificate must list the following additional declaration: "The plants in this consignment were inspected and found to be free of European brown garden snail (Helix aspersa/Cornu aspersum)."

1)The material must be certified free from European brown garden snail (HELIX ASPERSA).

The phytosanitary certificate must bear one of the following additional declarations:

"The soil originated in an area in which, on the basis of official surveys, Helix aspersa does not occur."

OR

"Material is free of European brown garden snail (HELIX ASPERSA)."

1)Requirements for Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica):
The shipment must be accompanied by a Phytosanitary Certificate indicating the state of origin, OR
a U.S. Nursery Certification Program Phytosanitary Certificate OR
Shipping documents showing a U.S. Greenhouse Certification Program label.

A Phytosanitary Certificate is required to accompany the consignment, containing the following Additional Declaration:

"This shipment conforms to 7 CFR 301.92 which regulates the movement of nursery stock for Phytophthora ramorum from the States of California, Oregon, and Washington." OR

"The soil originated in a production site in which, on the basis of official surveys, Phytophthora ramorum is not known to occur."

---------------------------------------------------------

Moving your roses across the border should be relatively stress free, provided you do you homework with ODA and the CFIA. Good luck.

Cheers, Rick

I've seen gall in 4 roses here. Three came from the same source. All probably came with the disease. None of the four actually got into the soil. I removed them all and put them in the trash, and I do not regret having done so.

As to whether or how to re-hab the soil . . .
Since I never had to do it, I never studied HOW to do it. There are chemicals designed for that purpose. I haven't used them, so I'm no authority.

I think I would remove at least some soil, do everything I could to sterilize what remained, and let the hole lie fallow as suggested. Plant, oh, salvia there. ?Nasturtiums?

I can, however, assure HenrylnCT that Gall DOES show up in roses grown in SoCal.

Jeri

Dear all, what a wonderful bunch you are.

I have digested everything you have written. And I hope that you all noticed also, that there are many aspects of a gall problem, and also a number of different types of galls.

I called Regan Nursery and they INSISTED that I bring the rose back. They will not only give me a new one, but their rosarian, Victoria, wanted to look at it and help me find a bactericide to drench the soil. This has proven to be difficult. After hours on the web, I found several that had good referrals, from universities primarily. The problem is that only professionals can buy them. I think Regan's will help.

The reason that I have decided that it is a bacterial type infection and a bad one, is that (reading until my eyes watered) , I found that the rate at which this gall grew was much faster than the other two types. Also the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the plant seems to be dying. Leaves were affected first, now the canes are getting dark brown.

When I told this to Victoria, before telling her what I had ascertained, she immediately said "I'm sure that you only planted that rose 6 or 7 months ago, am I right?" I told her she was right. She asked how long the gall had been there, and I told her it wasn't there long, I would have noticed it sooner. She then said "Yank that thing out quickly and remove as much of the soil as possible" You have a very virulent type of bacteria to have grown so quickly and to be destroying the plant so fast. She also said that some types are not so dangerous and grow very slowly. And some types are from wasps.

So, as it turns out, you are all correct in different ways.

NOW, if anyone knows a good bactericide that I can purchase online, I would certainly be grateful.....I am anyway.

Please send my your good wishes not to have destroyed my beautiful babies. (Mushy, I know)

Thanks, all my fine and ROSY friends,

andrea