22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I don't have any full sun area's in my yard, but I have my roses in as much sun as I have. Each bush gets several hours a day except for Country Dancer.
I bought Country Dancer because it was was supposed to do well in shade, but so far mine hasn't bloomed a lot.
This is probably the problem since they aren't too close together and are definitely not over fertilized.

Roses are sun-lovers--usually need at least 6 hours of sun a day. If you don't really have much sun, I'd recommend you switch over to hydrangeas--they are gorgeous and usually like part sun/part shade to nearly full shade.

Definitely, deprived of sun, most roses will be weaker and more spindly and bloom less and probably get more bs disease. The roses that "tolerate" shade usually still need at least 4 hours of direct sun--but "tolerate" does not mean they will thrive in that area--just that they will survive.

Good luck.

Kate

Thanks Kim, I'll look into it and post what I find out

Good Morning Zidane,

The import of plant material into Canada is currently reglulated by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency's Plant Protection Division (CFIA). I believe a decision was just recently made by the Canadian government to transfer Plant Protection responsibilities back to Agriculture Canada, but I'm not certain when that will happen.

Your best plan of attack would be to contact the Oregon Department of Agriculture and tell them what you wish to do. ODA will be the ones who inspect your roses and provide you with the required Phytosanitary Certificate for export to Canada. They will also know what the certification requirents are and what the Phyto must attest to.

Once you have things organized with ODA, I would suggest that you contact the CFIA in Vancouver and discuss things with a Program Officer with the Plant Protection Program in that office.

When you are ready to move the plants to Canada, you will have to present them and the Phytosanitary Certificate to a Canadian Border Services Officer. They may choose to hold them for inspection by CFIA at the border, or more likely let you move them through for inspection by CFIA at destination.

The good news is that no Import Permit is required between Canada and the U.S. I import roses from Oregon and other U.S. nurseries often.

The CFIA has an online web system called the "Automated Import Reference System" (AIRS). As with all things scientific regulated by governments, plant import requirements are complex. AIRS allows you to access requirements for specific species and types of plants from various places and determine admissibility and import requirements. I have inputed a search for roses, with soil from Oregon to be imported into British Columbia for planting. The result is pasted below:

______________________________

Recommendations to CBSA/Documentation and Registration Requirements

Refer to CFIA-NISC(must be accompanied by the following documents\registrations):•Phytosanitary Certificate

Importer / Broker Instructions

DOCUMENTATION INSTRUCTIONS

PHYTOSANITARY CERTIFICATE
- Obtain from Country of Export prior to importation.

CONDITIONS OF IMPORT

The Phytosanitary Certificate must accompany the shipment.

The material must be certified free from Columbia Root Knot Nematode (MELOIDOGYNE CHITWOODI).

1)The phytosanitary certificate must bear one of the following additional declarations:

"The material was produced and prepared for export in accordance with the conditions of entry specified in Quarantine Directive 82-01 of February 1, 1982."

or

"The soil originated in an area in which, on the basis of official surveys, Meloidogyne chitwoodi does not occur."

Requirements for European brown garden snail (Cornu aspersum, syn. Helix aspersa):

The Phytosanitary Certificate must list the following additional declaration: "The plants in this consignment were inspected and found to be free of European brown garden snail (Helix aspersa/Cornu aspersum)."

1)The material must be certified free from European brown garden snail (HELIX ASPERSA).

The phytosanitary certificate must bear one of the following additional declarations:

"The soil originated in an area in which, on the basis of official surveys, Helix aspersa does not occur."

OR

"Material is free of European brown garden snail (HELIX ASPERSA)."

1)Requirements for Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica):
The shipment must be accompanied by a Phytosanitary Certificate indicating the state of origin, OR
a U.S. Nursery Certification Program Phytosanitary Certificate OR
Shipping documents showing a U.S. Greenhouse Certification Program label.

A Phytosanitary Certificate is required to accompany the consignment, containing the following Additional Declaration:

"This shipment conforms to 7 CFR 301.92 which regulates the movement of nursery stock for Phytophthora ramorum from the States of California, Oregon, and Washington." OR

"The soil originated in a production site in which, on the basis of official surveys, Phytophthora ramorum is not known to occur."

---------------------------------------------------------

Moving your roses across the border should be relatively stress free, provided you do you homework with ODA and the CFIA. Good luck.

Cheers, Rick

I've seen gall in 4 roses here. Three came from the same source. All probably came with the disease. None of the four actually got into the soil. I removed them all and put them in the trash, and I do not regret having done so.

As to whether or how to re-hab the soil . . .
Since I never had to do it, I never studied HOW to do it. There are chemicals designed for that purpose. I haven't used them, so I'm no authority.

I think I would remove at least some soil, do everything I could to sterilize what remained, and let the hole lie fallow as suggested. Plant, oh, salvia there. ?Nasturtiums?

I can, however, assure HenrylnCT that Gall DOES show up in roses grown in SoCal.

Jeri

Dear all, what a wonderful bunch you are.

I have digested everything you have written. And I hope that you all noticed also, that there are many aspects of a gall problem, and also a number of different types of galls.

I called Regan Nursery and they INSISTED that I bring the rose back. They will not only give me a new one, but their rosarian, Victoria, wanted to look at it and help me find a bactericide to drench the soil. This has proven to be difficult. After hours on the web, I found several that had good referrals, from universities primarily. The problem is that only professionals can buy them. I think Regan's will help.

The reason that I have decided that it is a bacterial type infection and a bad one, is that (reading until my eyes watered) , I found that the rate at which this gall grew was much faster than the other two types. Also the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the plant seems to be dying. Leaves were affected first, now the canes are getting dark brown.

When I told this to Victoria, before telling her what I had ascertained, she immediately said "I'm sure that you only planted that rose 6 or 7 months ago, am I right?" I told her she was right. She asked how long the gall had been there, and I told her it wasn't there long, I would have noticed it sooner. She then said "Yank that thing out quickly and remove as much of the soil as possible" You have a very virulent type of bacteria to have grown so quickly and to be destroying the plant so fast. She also said that some types are not so dangerous and grow very slowly. And some types are from wasps.

So, as it turns out, you are all correct in different ways.

NOW, if anyone knows a good bactericide that I can purchase online, I would certainly be grateful.....I am anyway.

Please send my your good wishes not to have destroyed my beautiful babies. (Mushy, I know)

Thanks, all my fine and ROSY friends,

andrea

Wow. I am so happy to read this post! I have exactly the same problem. Did a sympathy purchase from Vintage this past summer. Was hoping to get Gene Boerner floribunda. My garden theme is also pink and white. So you can just imagine my surprise when this salmon red single petalled rose emerged. Regrettably, I was not as enthusiastic as you were. I sent an email including a picture of the rose and got no reply. I did not push for a refund because I understood the dire nature of the task that was facing Vintage this year. My plan was to give away the offender. However, in the Fall when another bud came up I fell in love with the runt. I am so pleased that I can now give her a name. I too think it is Poppy. I know she will contrast with my pink and white beauties, but perhaps I was beginning to get too monochromatic . So my new darling Poppy has a home here in North Texas. The other flip side to the "mistake " purchase is that I have never seen this rose growing in North Texas. So I'm happy to start a trend. Thank you Vintage and thank you Nippstress for sharing!

Cool - glad to be helpful, shopshops! If we both got the same substitution, there must have been an error somewhere earlier in the propagation process, so they honestly thought they were sending us Gene Boerner once they had the rose band growing at Vintage. It's good of you to be patient with Vintage since they've been down to bare bones staff for some time.

I agree that it's kind of fun to be "forced" to try something out of my comfort zone every now and then. Like you, I thought it would contrast with the pinks but it's really more of an accent plant among the more delicate colors. Since I also have burgundy roses in that bed for depth and lots of picotee or striped colors, Poppy seems to echo the darker colors without clashing. Surprising how well a little judicious contrast can liven up a bed, eh?

Anyway, glad to help and here's to expanding the trends for gardening in our districts!

Cynthia

No additives here. The native soil is heavy, red clay but the house is thirty years old. Three decades of mulch has created loose planting beds. A couple of years ago, the termite man said 'no mulch around the foundation' but that's okay because the soil is improved now.

I use Mycorrhizae.

I had the same thought seil had - how about a fence around several roses?

I cage all of our baby roses, but then take off the cages when the roses are big enough not to be killed by some grazing. Our deer are not as hungry as yours - they mostly just nibble. But, they are sneaky about getting through cages! I actually saw a small but not tiny fawn sticking its smaller nuzzle through a cage and grazing on the rose inside.

One time at my MIL's house, in the middle of the night she heard a horrible racket in the back yard that woke her up. Armed with a flashlight, she saw a large (for us) buck running around her patio with a cage caught in its antlers. It was smashing the cage against everything, and eventually the cage fell off and we found it the next morning. My DH then bulit a tall fence all around his mother's back yard, and that worked.

Jackie

I'm not worried about the deer killing the roses. I've had about 15 bushes unprotected for over 20 years. The problem is except for the climbers and a few tall bushes they eat almost all the buds and stunt the growth of the bushes. Rose bushes without abundant flowers is not an option.

Fencing isn't an option. I was fortunate to convince my wife to allow cages. Cages are shorter then fences, because they only need to stop grazing, not entry. Cages are temporary and easily removeable. A fence is a more permanent structure and my roses are in the front of the house and a fence would not be attractive.
My backyard is too shady for roses and the one other section that has sun, a fence would block the view of the mountain. Given another property, I would fence.

I know that. I just like fun project

Nice spirit of adventure, but just so you know, you might get bigger roses than the parents. One of my favorite minis has a great big rosebush as her mama. You might like to get a sweet chariot and collect your own. That rose sets seeds very well.

the thing is that roundup is made up of different chemicals than the spray used in my neighborhood. I'm not sure if both would have the same effect on foliage.

I would really prefer that my Brother Cadfael was affected by a temporary event and there was hope for survival.

Here is a link that might be useful: roundup ingredients

Brother Cadfael's growth looks like rosette disease. If there is any recurrence, you should remove the plant immediately and bag it.

I never heard of insecticide causing growth like that, and I think you can dismiss that possibility.

Sumithrin is rated as having low toxicity to birds and mammals. It is highly toxic to aquatic life.

Here is a link that might be useful: sumithrin

I am sure one day,roses would be engineered to bloom 4 seasons, glow in the dark, totally bullet proof and have all the attributes that one' heart desires. But I don't look forward to those roses. I garden because I enjoy being connected with simple, but essential things missing from my work like (sun, rain, dirt, sweat) as well as a bit of history and personalities of our plants. For gardenning, I will stay low tech and, yes, I find glowing roses disturbing.

For those who are M. Atwood fans, didn't she write about roses that glow in the dark in Year of the Flood?

I still think mutations like sports are the best form of genetic modification from nature.

Who knows? Maybe one day those failed blue roses will sport and we'll get a true blue one.

Also, bullet-proof roses! lol! That made my day.

Kate, I was surprised today to see about 6 new buds on Julia Child. One limp flower that was on the bush awhile. I wouldn't have thought it would still be pushing out buds, so now I'm waiting to see if they will get to open before another cold night. I think we're supposed to warm up for a few days.

Very pretty roses out California way!

Well Jeri, I don't know exactly where our water goes down south, but I know it does get sold to parts of SoCal. My husband was down at the local marina the other day, where the lake is, and it's lower than it's ever been. You can't even launch the boats from there any more because it's so low. And the main reservoir is lower than ever also.

I hear we're supposed to get some rain in the coming week, and I certainly hope we do! It's finally beginning to cool down too. Personally, I hate winter and am not looking forward to it. But we really need a good cold winter this yr. The last two have been pretty mild. I just don't want to end up with water rationing! If that happens, I'll lose a lot of roses.

You're welcome. If there isn't room where they're planted to mound them, you can also take tar paper, cardboard, even many sheets of news paper rolled into a cylinder then stapled to hold it together (or even tied with string) so you can slip them over the plants then fill with potting soil or amendment. You only want the top two or three inches of canes to poke out of the soil. Water the cylinder contents thoroughly to keep it damp and cool. When you see real new growth starting, you can gradually remove a bit of the soil every few days until you've exposed much of the canes and there are several inches of new foliage and canes. I usually then slip the cylinders off and use the remainder as mulch in the bed. If it begins raining, you can simply uncover them and let the rain do it for you. It's amazing how quickly a good rain settles the plant and successfully kick starts it into growth.

Ironically, it rained like crazy this morning on the 5 through the Newhall Pass. The 14 was bone dry and sunny and all three places I had for stops today were also dry, but the freeway, RIGHT where it's REALLY needed, was soaked. Go figure. Who knew concrete was magnetic for rain? KIm

I'm approaching my first anniversary of growing roses in SoCal with mixed results. Here I found the soil to be horrible and in places it can be as hard as concrete so drainage can be bad. You need to do a lot of soil preparation and then use a moisture meter to check drainage and to make sure the roots are kept moist but not wet. The next problem is watering. I am positive arial watering in these conditions is not enough and it is wasteful and water here is expensive. It probably wastes at least 50 percent of the water. All my neighbors water their roses with arial systems like are used for lawns and their roses are mostly dead. I put in an emitter surface system that puts two gallons per hour at the base of the rose. None is wasted but it has to be run a lot because the water spreads out as well as sinks down. That inch of water needs to cover the entire area. It wont just stay around the roots. Third, you have to use a lot of mulch and feed with organic liquid fertilizer. I have been unable to find alfalfa pellets here but steer manure in water seems to work just fine. I have two large plastic garbage cans of steaming liquid steer manure that I use to feed my 100 roses. Once the soil is built up and humisy like it was for me in CT a lot of this wont be necessary but it is when you are first starting out. The other advice that has been given here about the quality of the bare roots was fine. I would never buy bare roots from a box store and you really can't be sure what you'll get from a mail order nursery. I got some real garbage from J&P in the past and last year I got some pretty bad ones from Hortico but they all survived and thrived if I was careful planting. Some were tiny and looked half dead but they turned into huge plants in six months.