22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I was just going to post the same link! I feel like a dope, but didn't realize he was a Wisconsinite...and a fellow Badger. I haven't paid much attention to the biographies of hybridizers. I don't have an Knock Outs personally, but my neighbor's always look nice.
No additives here. The native soil is heavy, red clay but the house is thirty years old. Three decades of mulch has created loose planting beds. A couple of years ago, the termite man said 'no mulch around the foundation' but that's okay because the soil is improved now.
I had the same thought seil had - how about a fence around several roses?
I cage all of our baby roses, but then take off the cages when the roses are big enough not to be killed by some grazing. Our deer are not as hungry as yours - they mostly just nibble. But, they are sneaky about getting through cages! I actually saw a small but not tiny fawn sticking its smaller nuzzle through a cage and grazing on the rose inside.
One time at my MIL's house, in the middle of the night she heard a horrible racket in the back yard that woke her up. Armed with a flashlight, she saw a large (for us) buck running around her patio with a cage caught in its antlers. It was smashing the cage against everything, and eventually the cage fell off and we found it the next morning. My DH then bulit a tall fence all around his mother's back yard, and that worked.
Jackie
I'm not worried about the deer killing the roses. I've had about 15 bushes unprotected for over 20 years. The problem is except for the climbers and a few tall bushes they eat almost all the buds and stunt the growth of the bushes. Rose bushes without abundant flowers is not an option.
Fencing isn't an option. I was fortunate to convince my wife to allow cages. Cages are shorter then fences, because they only need to stop grazing, not entry. Cages are temporary and easily removeable. A fence is a more permanent structure and my roses are in the front of the house and a fence would not be attractive.
My backyard is too shady for roses and the one other section that has sun, a fence would block the view of the mountain. Given another property, I would fence.
Nice spirit of adventure, but just so you know, you might get bigger roses than the parents. One of my favorite minis has a great big rosebush as her mama. You might like to get a sweet chariot and collect your own. That rose sets seeds very well.
the thing is that roundup is made up of different chemicals than the spray used in my neighborhood. I'm not sure if both would have the same effect on foliage.
I would really prefer that my Brother Cadfael was affected by a temporary event and there was hope for survival.
Here is a link that might be useful: roundup ingredients
Brother Cadfael's growth looks like rosette disease. If there is any recurrence, you should remove the plant immediately and bag it.
I never heard of insecticide causing growth like that, and I think you can dismiss that possibility.
Sumithrin is rated as having low toxicity to birds and mammals. It is highly toxic to aquatic life.
Here is a link that might be useful: sumithrin
I am sure one day,roses would be engineered to bloom 4 seasons, glow in the dark, totally bullet proof and have all the attributes that one' heart desires. But I don't look forward to those roses. I garden because I enjoy being connected with simple, but essential things missing from my work like (sun, rain, dirt, sweat) as well as a bit of history and personalities of our plants. For gardenning, I will stay low tech and, yes, I find glowing roses disturbing.
For those who are M. Atwood fans, didn't she write about roses that glow in the dark in Year of the Flood?
Kate, I was surprised today to see about 6 new buds on Julia Child. One limp flower that was on the bush awhile. I wouldn't have thought it would still be pushing out buds, so now I'm waiting to see if they will get to open before another cold night. I think we're supposed to warm up for a few days.
Very pretty roses out California way!
Well Jeri, I don't know exactly where our water goes down south, but I know it does get sold to parts of SoCal. My husband was down at the local marina the other day, where the lake is, and it's lower than it's ever been. You can't even launch the boats from there any more because it's so low. And the main reservoir is lower than ever also.
I hear we're supposed to get some rain in the coming week, and I certainly hope we do! It's finally beginning to cool down too. Personally, I hate winter and am not looking forward to it. But we really need a good cold winter this yr. The last two have been pretty mild. I just don't want to end up with water rationing! If that happens, I'll lose a lot of roses.
I have one in Orange County CA near Disneyland. It's on Dr. Huey roots and has long arms. Repeat blooming has been good even though the plant has been in mostly shade with afternoon sun. I have not gotten any disease even though it is in a shadier spot. I also have Cinderella, Pomponella and Lion's Fairytale. I would say that Larissa fits with these in that the charming clusters of flowers come on a plant that grows larger than stated on the tag and has a more open style of growth than modern floribundas. What I had hoped for in Larissa was the multi pink flowers with the deeper centers, but because my climate is warmer, they are a uniform mid pink all over. The few times I had an extended period of low to mid 70s days I had the color I wanted. I think this is going to be a trouble free large shrub for someone who wants a landscape leave it alone rose. It is thorny so it might make a good security hedge where you don't want a really tall rose.
This sounds like a good rose for my "island plantings". I have a small pond with an island - this rose might fit in well planted where it can drape down a slight incline toward the pond. I had a water spigot put on the island so can keep it watered. I am not a fan of low growing sprawling roses, though I like the color of this one. Since its thorny, I think the island would be a perfect spot for it. The color looks really pretty.....taller shrub roses would look good behind it.
Thanks for the reply!
Judith
You're welcome. If there isn't room where they're planted to mound them, you can also take tar paper, cardboard, even many sheets of news paper rolled into a cylinder then stapled to hold it together (or even tied with string) so you can slip them over the plants then fill with potting soil or amendment. You only want the top two or three inches of canes to poke out of the soil. Water the cylinder contents thoroughly to keep it damp and cool. When you see real new growth starting, you can gradually remove a bit of the soil every few days until you've exposed much of the canes and there are several inches of new foliage and canes. I usually then slip the cylinders off and use the remainder as mulch in the bed. If it begins raining, you can simply uncover them and let the rain do it for you. It's amazing how quickly a good rain settles the plant and successfully kick starts it into growth.
Ironically, it rained like crazy this morning on the 5 through the Newhall Pass. The 14 was bone dry and sunny and all three places I had for stops today were also dry, but the freeway, RIGHT where it's REALLY needed, was soaked. Go figure. Who knew concrete was magnetic for rain? KIm
I'm approaching my first anniversary of growing roses in SoCal with mixed results. Here I found the soil to be horrible and in places it can be as hard as concrete so drainage can be bad. You need to do a lot of soil preparation and then use a moisture meter to check drainage and to make sure the roots are kept moist but not wet. The next problem is watering. I am positive arial watering in these conditions is not enough and it is wasteful and water here is expensive. It probably wastes at least 50 percent of the water. All my neighbors water their roses with arial systems like are used for lawns and their roses are mostly dead. I put in an emitter surface system that puts two gallons per hour at the base of the rose. None is wasted but it has to be run a lot because the water spreads out as well as sinks down. That inch of water needs to cover the entire area. It wont just stay around the roots. Third, you have to use a lot of mulch and feed with organic liquid fertilizer. I have been unable to find alfalfa pellets here but steer manure in water seems to work just fine. I have two large plastic garbage cans of steaming liquid steer manure that I use to feed my 100 roses. Once the soil is built up and humisy like it was for me in CT a lot of this wont be necessary but it is when you are first starting out. The other advice that has been given here about the quality of the bare roots was fine. I would never buy bare roots from a box store and you really can't be sure what you'll get from a mail order nursery. I got some real garbage from J&P in the past and last year I got some pretty bad ones from Hortico but they all survived and thrived if I was careful planting. Some were tiny and looked half dead but they turned into huge plants in six months.
Many/most of the positive suggestions are familar. I can offer a comment of the problem you may experience once you have a membership built up.
What to do to keep the club from exploding? Somehow, one has to keep the rose exhibitors and the non rose exhibitors away from each others throats.
Having been a membership chair for several years for multiple rose societies, I can say there is no one sure-fire way to entice people to attend meetings, let alone join a rose society. People turn first to the internet for information so getting your local rose society on the web and linked to other local gardening groups, the ARS website, Facebook and local nursery websites will go a long way towards publicizing your society. Make sure your website is updated on a regular basis, complete with pictures, a monthly rose calendar, email and phone numbers for local CR's and a schedule of local rose activities, cost and contact info.
Join with the Master Gardeners and other local gardening groups to set up info booths at public gardening events, tours, nurseries, etc. Make sure your group has small fliers and membership applications available every place you go.
Offer a half-year membership, gift memberships and maybe a free rose bush, garden utensil or booklet with extended memberships. Don't be afraid to offer a pro-rate or complimentary membership to local nurseries, churches or other garden groups.
Send your electronic newsletter to local homeowners groups so they can include your events to your neighbors.
Visit local nurseries, hang posters, volunteer a 'rose' day when bare roots come in. Make sure you know what the local nurseries are ordering and don't send all your members to mail-order instead of supporting the local guys. Recommend roses they can purchase locally.
Support, volunteer and advertise for your local public rose garden. Establish workdays and use limited street signage to publicize.
Print media advertising is really expensive but sending your newsletter and information to local garden writers and editors can get you a freebie mention in the paper or some coverage for a rose show.
Prepare to spend many, many hours a year trying to encourage people to grow roses and join a rose society. Long past the time you no longer hold the membership position, continue to be committed to membership. Some of our newer members took up to five years before deciding we didn't bite, scratch or cost them an arm & a leg.
Most people I've given programs to said they walked away with new info and a better understanding of their gardens.
Once you get new members, make sure they get introduced to your CR's, get them a mentor if needed and don't try to push them into holding office right away.
Jeannie Cochell, Phoenix Rose Society
I'm totally surprised that this shows up in a Louisiana newspaper. I always associated spiny rose galls with much colder rose gardens mostly because it's the only place I've seen the galls on roses were in climates colder than mine.
It was only four years ago that spiny galls showed up on my R. eglanteria. I still wonder where the next closest infected roses are.
Has anyone else south of the Mason Dixon line had spiny or non-spiny rose galls?
Wow. I am so happy to read this post! I have exactly the same problem. Did a sympathy purchase from Vintage this past summer. Was hoping to get Gene Boerner floribunda. My garden theme is also pink and white. So you can just imagine my surprise when this salmon red single petalled rose emerged. Regrettably, I was not as enthusiastic as you were. I sent an email including a picture of the rose and got no reply. I did not push for a refund because I understood the dire nature of the task that was facing Vintage this year. My plan was to give away the offender. However, in the Fall when another bud came up I fell in love with the runt. I am so pleased that I can now give her a name. I too think it is Poppy. I know she will contrast with my pink and white beauties, but perhaps I was beginning to get too monochromatic . So my new darling Poppy has a home here in North Texas. The other flip side to the "mistake " purchase is that I have never seen this rose growing in North Texas. So I'm happy to start a trend. Thank you Vintage and thank you Nippstress for sharing!
Cool - glad to be helpful, shopshops! If we both got the same substitution, there must have been an error somewhere earlier in the propagation process, so they honestly thought they were sending us Gene Boerner once they had the rose band growing at Vintage. It's good of you to be patient with Vintage since they've been down to bare bones staff for some time.
I agree that it's kind of fun to be "forced" to try something out of my comfort zone every now and then. Like you, I thought it would contrast with the pinks but it's really more of an accent plant among the more delicate colors. Since I also have burgundy roses in that bed for depth and lots of picotee or striped colors, Poppy seems to echo the darker colors without clashing. Surprising how well a little judicious contrast can liven up a bed, eh?
Anyway, glad to help and here's to expanding the trends for gardening in our districts!
Cynthia