22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

It's cool here too.. Not cold..wet, Not often. I haven't received it yet and am wondering what I will do with it. While I have soft and medium pink roses, I do not have baby pink. I thought I might plant it along a walkway with Marie Pavie instead of Clotilde Soupert but the color possibility is a concern.

Lynn

Well, it blooms all the time, so you are going to have to get used to it! She's a bloomin' fool. I usually call that color "common pink" because it is the most common pink to show up in seedlings. They definitely picked this rose for commercialization because of its bloomiferousness, not its color.

I like this one.

Oh yeah, that is the only problem with the book "The Rose" it is completely based off of roses that grow well in England and the big rose picture is out of that book.

I am not certain on Climate zones in England compared to the U.S., but I would imagine if it grows well in England it would do fine in Zone 6.

The thing about much of England is that while it doesn't get as hot as does much of the US in Summer, it also doesn't get as cold in Winter. From what I remember offhand, much of it is USDA zone 8 (give or take), so while things might not grow as vigorously in their cooler Summers, they also won't be as hard-hit in their milder Winters. Then again, as I remember from Plant Delights' happy zone-pushing, it's possible that when a plant has a more intense growing season, it can better handle a cold dormant season. And in any case, 'Lady Hillingdon' is one of the hardier Teas.

:-)

~Christopher

The pruning should be done in early, early spring, and NOT in the fall or early winter. If you are pruning fall and spring, that definitely is too much pruning.

I'm not sure what you are pruning for, so it is hard to give suggestions. You don't need to prune just for the sake of pruning. Here are some reasons I prune in my zone 6 garden in Kansas:

1. Prune out brown and dead wood.
2. Prune to cut off winter/freeze damage--I do a test cut near the end of the cane. If the center (pith) is a bright white, there is no winter damage and I do no more cutting back. If the center (pith) is "off" (kinda tannish), I go down the cane about 4-6 inches and cut again. If the pith is still not bright white, I go down another 4-6 inches and cut again--and so forth, until I reach bright white pith. This kind of pruning is usually limited to hybrid teas which, sometimes being a bit iffy temperature wise, suffer more from winter cold. The hybrid teas sometimes have to be pruned back nearly to the ground before good pith is available. (Check the hardiness number on your new roses--make sure they are winter-hardy for your zone.) Assuming most of your roses are hardy enough for zone 6, you won't need to do this kind of pruning for most of them.
3. Prune to control height--cut back at most by 1/3. But it is rare that height is a problem here, so I rarely prune just to control height. At most I may give the rose a very light "haircut" overall--a couple inches at most.
4. Occasionally I prune a bit for shape--a branch is jutting out too much, making the rose look lop-sided, so I trim back that branch a bit. I don't usually need to do much of this kind of pruning.
5. If a branch got broken off as a result of the winter winds, I make a smooth, neat cut immediately below the breakage. This rarely happens also.
6. With climbers, I avoid cutting back the long canes. Instead trim back the "laterals" growing off the long canes--make them about 6 inches long. It is those laterals that will probably produce the next set of blooms.
7. Occasionally a rose gets much too crowded in the center, so I thin it out. This rarely happens, however.
8. Prune to rejuvenate an older shrub. Cut out at ground level 1 or 2 old canes (they will often look grey and barklike). Do that each year for several years. New canes should be produced each year, and in about 3 years, you will have a "new" and "younger" rose bush.

Right off hand, those are the major reasons I can think of for pruning. And note that most of them are only occasionally needed. The only ones I regularly do every early spring are numbers 1 and 2: deadwood, and freeze damage.

Hope that helps.

Kate

Thank u so much for your replies seil and dublinbay - appreciate your advice! I will look to prune for general health and vigor right around the time that my forsythia are blooming. Thx again!

I've always thought that the high humidity and added warmth provided by the jar method was very important. So much so that I don't take the jar off until I'm sure the cutting is rooted or dead. If you put several cuttings in a plastic tub with a cover aren't you going to lose heat and humidity for all of them when to take the cover off? Also, with the jar method you can water to keep the soil moist without uncovering them.

Henry, that has not been a problem for us. Cuttings in a terrarium have plenty of warmth, and plenty of moisture.

If there's not enough condensate moisture cycling up and down, we add some. Our soil is alkaline as all getout, and not a treat for plants. Plus, in addition to plants, our garden houses three Dalmatian dogs, who have been known to dig vast holes in pursuit of the many gophers that infest the area.

ANYTHING is safer here in a terrarium.

We didn't invent the method. We learned it from the late Col. Mel Hulse, who had marked success with it, as do a number of other CA rosarians.

MOST of the time, now, our cuttings are in a small greenhouse. But if we're only working with a limited number, we still use the terrarium.

Jeri

More info

Here is a link that might be useful: click here for more info

Ha-Jim I just read there are 5,000 species of blister beetles worldwide--doesn't matter. They are nasty pests no matter how many species exist.
Here's my BB story: Several years ago, a black beetle began showing up on my yellow calendula, which that year I had all over the place. The insect was chewing the heck out of them. Spraying wasn't possible, nor did I want to try that route. So I ignored the ugly things. Big mistake. The next year, they were ten times worse. They seemed to love all kinds of yellow flowers--calendula was still number one, but yellow coreopsis and rudbeckia seemed to be good in a pinch. I decided the situation called for the gloves of death, so I put them on and went to work, easily "popping" hundreds of these nasties per day. I went out at set times and told myself this would be a fun job, and I sort of began to enjoy the popping sound, as well as the release of loudly cursing the things (yes, I'm nuts). I was shocked to find the insects on my Russian sage one day and even hollyhocks. They never bothered my roses, though. After a number of days of this bug killing, there were no more BBs to be seen. The next year, about 15 showed up, and I quickly popped them. The next year after that, there were about 12, and this year, a grand total of 2 blister bugs appeared. Each time, though, I didn't make the mistake of ignoring even two insects, and all bit the dust (my BBs are slow and stupid, trying to drop to the ground when on occasion I miss popping one). The moral of all this is: don't ignore them--eliminate them. And spray is not necessary. Just think of them as enemies of the garden and pop away. Diane

I hate the cutesy names. I refuse to buy a rose with a cutesy name.

Thank you, Mendocino Rose, Me too. I am glad to learn I am not alone in my distaste for cutesy naming.

Lol, Susan, that's a good way to look at it! I usually let winter take care of most of my leaves. Between the wind and early spring pruning I rarely have any left to pick off.

All a plant's energy for growth comes from green leaves in the sunshine. Some of this energy is stored for regrowth in the spring. Any leaves that are still functioning are performing a valuable service and should be left alone until the plant shuts down for winter.

You're right catsrose - thanks for catching a caveat to my advice above. I don't grow that many rugosas so I hadn't processed that they don't like pruning. Regardless, you're also right that it's a mistake to worry too much about shape in a relatively young rose. The bottom line Kelby is to check for reasons for the rose cane death or soil problems like Michael said, then just prune off the dead parts and give it basic care. The rose will decide what shape it wants to be and you can go from there.

Cynthia

This little fawn (just a few days old) was hiding in my species rugosas. It's a good close-up of how rugosas grow.

Viridiflora makes a splendid arrangement "filler" and actually adds a bit of a peppery scent to the vase. I grow it, and the Reversion, though the Reversion isn't as vigorous as the sport. Kim

I like the Green Rose and it does very well for me. I wish I had put it in a spot that shows it off more, altho one has to point it out to people, anyway, as they just assume it is out of bloom. I think of it as a bit backward, shy, humble, and feel rather protective of its self-esteem.

I can't add much to the discussion - since I'm in a far different zone, but here's my Memorial Day bud picture. Rose is grown in a pot.

Carol

Wow! Isn't this a great rose? Does well in a pot, too? My tree rose also does well, but not as much as the one in the ground. I always wonder why she doesn't bloom on Memorial Day. Not a great pic of the tree form, just to show how late she blooms . Taken a few days ago.

No, I haven't made any decisions. I don't know how anyone makes a decision about these things - there are just soooooo many varieties to choose from, it's sort of overwhelming.

I have, however, been having a good look around my suburb at what my neighbours are up to in terms of rose growing, trying to see what does well and what does not so well. So within a few streets of my house Crepuscule, Renae, Pinkie and Ballerina are all doing exceptionally well. There are a couple of Pierre de Ronsard's doing ok, the blooms are looking lovely but they're not growing very much and they have very little foliage, so I guess they're not exactly vigorous.

All of the hybrid tea varieties, however, and not doing too well - they have a few scattered blooms but the bushes are looking very leggy. I don't think they get enough sun up here to become bushy and healthy.

Josh,

Of the three roses you and Jacqueline3 are talking about which would be the best to help cover an 8'x16' trellis? I have ZD's all over the place, which are thornless and have a nice fragrance. I have a ZD already planted at one end and would like something else at the other end.

Thanks.
Tool

K&M Roses and Cool Roses sell grafted on Fortuniana. Also, Wisconsin Roses sells newly grafted/budded on R. multiflora.

While not a retail nursery, PanAm Nurseries out of Vancouver, BC is on multiflora and Dr. Huey.