22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I've always thought that the high humidity and added warmth provided by the jar method was very important. So much so that I don't take the jar off until I'm sure the cutting is rooted or dead. If you put several cuttings in a plastic tub with a cover aren't you going to lose heat and humidity for all of them when to take the cover off? Also, with the jar method you can water to keep the soil moist without uncovering them.

Henry, that has not been a problem for us. Cuttings in a terrarium have plenty of warmth, and plenty of moisture.

If there's not enough condensate moisture cycling up and down, we add some. Our soil is alkaline as all getout, and not a treat for plants. Plus, in addition to plants, our garden houses three Dalmatian dogs, who have been known to dig vast holes in pursuit of the many gophers that infest the area.

ANYTHING is safer here in a terrarium.

We didn't invent the method. We learned it from the late Col. Mel Hulse, who had marked success with it, as do a number of other CA rosarians.

MOST of the time, now, our cuttings are in a small greenhouse. But if we're only working with a limited number, we still use the terrarium.

Jeri

More info

Here is a link that might be useful: click here for more info

Ha-Jim I just read there are 5,000 species of blister beetles worldwide--doesn't matter. They are nasty pests no matter how many species exist.
Here's my BB story: Several years ago, a black beetle began showing up on my yellow calendula, which that year I had all over the place. The insect was chewing the heck out of them. Spraying wasn't possible, nor did I want to try that route. So I ignored the ugly things. Big mistake. The next year, they were ten times worse. They seemed to love all kinds of yellow flowers--calendula was still number one, but yellow coreopsis and rudbeckia seemed to be good in a pinch. I decided the situation called for the gloves of death, so I put them on and went to work, easily "popping" hundreds of these nasties per day. I went out at set times and told myself this would be a fun job, and I sort of began to enjoy the popping sound, as well as the release of loudly cursing the things (yes, I'm nuts). I was shocked to find the insects on my Russian sage one day and even hollyhocks. They never bothered my roses, though. After a number of days of this bug killing, there were no more BBs to be seen. The next year, about 15 showed up, and I quickly popped them. The next year after that, there were about 12, and this year, a grand total of 2 blister bugs appeared. Each time, though, I didn't make the mistake of ignoring even two insects, and all bit the dust (my BBs are slow and stupid, trying to drop to the ground when on occasion I miss popping one). The moral of all this is: don't ignore them--eliminate them. And spray is not necessary. Just think of them as enemies of the garden and pop away. Diane

I hate the cutesy names. I refuse to buy a rose with a cutesy name.

Thank you, Mendocino Rose, Me too. I am glad to learn I am not alone in my distaste for cutesy naming.

Lol, Susan, that's a good way to look at it! I usually let winter take care of most of my leaves. Between the wind and early spring pruning I rarely have any left to pick off.

All a plant's energy for growth comes from green leaves in the sunshine. Some of this energy is stored for regrowth in the spring. Any leaves that are still functioning are performing a valuable service and should be left alone until the plant shuts down for winter.

You're right catsrose - thanks for catching a caveat to my advice above. I don't grow that many rugosas so I hadn't processed that they don't like pruning. Regardless, you're also right that it's a mistake to worry too much about shape in a relatively young rose. The bottom line Kelby is to check for reasons for the rose cane death or soil problems like Michael said, then just prune off the dead parts and give it basic care. The rose will decide what shape it wants to be and you can go from there.

Cynthia

This little fawn (just a few days old) was hiding in my species rugosas. It's a good close-up of how rugosas grow.

Viridiflora makes a splendid arrangement "filler" and actually adds a bit of a peppery scent to the vase. I grow it, and the Reversion, though the Reversion isn't as vigorous as the sport. Kim

I like the Green Rose and it does very well for me. I wish I had put it in a spot that shows it off more, altho one has to point it out to people, anyway, as they just assume it is out of bloom. I think of it as a bit backward, shy, humble, and feel rather protective of its self-esteem.

I can't add much to the discussion - since I'm in a far different zone, but here's my Memorial Day bud picture. Rose is grown in a pot.

Carol

Wow! Isn't this a great rose? Does well in a pot, too? My tree rose also does well, but not as much as the one in the ground. I always wonder why she doesn't bloom on Memorial Day. Not a great pic of the tree form, just to show how late she blooms . Taken a few days ago.

No, I haven't made any decisions. I don't know how anyone makes a decision about these things - there are just soooooo many varieties to choose from, it's sort of overwhelming.

I have, however, been having a good look around my suburb at what my neighbours are up to in terms of rose growing, trying to see what does well and what does not so well. So within a few streets of my house Crepuscule, Renae, Pinkie and Ballerina are all doing exceptionally well. There are a couple of Pierre de Ronsard's doing ok, the blooms are looking lovely but they're not growing very much and they have very little foliage, so I guess they're not exactly vigorous.

All of the hybrid tea varieties, however, and not doing too well - they have a few scattered blooms but the bushes are looking very leggy. I don't think they get enough sun up here to become bushy and healthy.

Josh,

Of the three roses you and Jacqueline3 are talking about which would be the best to help cover an 8'x16' trellis? I have ZD's all over the place, which are thornless and have a nice fragrance. I have a ZD already planted at one end and would like something else at the other end.

Thanks.
Tool

K&M Roses and Cool Roses sell grafted on Fortuniana. Also, Wisconsin Roses sells newly grafted/budded on R. multiflora.

While not a retail nursery, PanAm Nurseries out of Vancouver, BC is on multiflora and Dr. Huey.

Alana,

This would actually get more hits in the Antique Roses forum. I would post it there. Most forums users here in Roses seem to grow more modern varieties.

Josh

Thanks Josh will do! That's where I meant to post but when I posted it on here I figured I would wait and see if I got any replies before I reposted.

Back before the rose industry imploded, Weeks was moving to own-root because (as Lynn mentioned) the art of budding was being lost. Older budders retired. Young people chose not to work on their knees in the fields, but to go to college. Understandably.

Tom Carruth told me that they were testing their roses, to see which would flourish on its own roots. Those that could not, they would likely drop.

So -- some just DON'T.

But, even if they do, sure, those roses are going to take some time -- at least an extra year -- to become mature plants. And, rather than that process taking place in rose fields in Wasco, it's taking place in your garden.

Jeri

Kitty - Do you have a link to Kim's post on a feeding schedule for one gallon sized potted roses?

It also depends on how you deadhead. Double Delight is a good bloomer and the blooms are beautiful but only for a couple of days after which they become faded and unattractive so I deadhead quickly. My Double Delight will have hopefully lots of buds and two or three great blooms but will never be covered like the ones in the picture.

Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it. I don't know why I fret so much about my roses, even though I do enjoy them tremendously, guess I just want to be sure I am doing the best I can for them for the growing conditions.

I have had no problems using Fluazifop, the active ingredient in Grass-B-Gone (which is getting more difficult to find). I agree with annececelia, use it while the plants are dormant. For me, hand pulling is always the safest method, followed by an application of Preen, then newspaper, then mulch. Nothing is permanent, there will always be some manual work required.

I haven't used any of the products mentioned but do use Glyphosate (Round-up). I generally only apply it with small paint brushes to kill obnoxious plants, usually Quack grass, or places it is impossible to get a grip to be able to pull the roots (between rocks). If I spray I typically use small bottles like the ones eye glass cleaner comes in or used windex type bottles. I, like another poster suggested, use a shield to protect wanted plants.

Good luck.

SCG