22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
seil, hoovb, farmerduck - thanks for your input
farmerduck - thanks for the link and I certainly hope my DB will be breathtaking too! The link was nice although I don't bury my grafts because I want the biggest bloom production possible and I can always cover with leaves during a rare cold blast
I remember an earlier conversation about some gardeners with alkaline soil having Munstead Woods that were more pinkish than dark purple/dark wine red like it grows in my garden. They concluded the alkaline soil accounted for the difference in colors. I don't really know. I'm not even sure what kind of soil I have--except that I assume it is "average" since my macro hydrangea tends to bloom lavender or part pink and part bluish.
I am curious to see if anyone has any scientific information to prove/disprove the alkaline-color theory.
Kate
I was cleaning the birdbath and testing to see if it would clear up the leaves of choriotic growth on reine des violettes, it gets too much gray water. It was just a splash and the leaves greened up and it was well watered in. But I decided that since I use vinegar as a weed killer on the street. I should skip using it in the garden
This year we just used the eb stone fertilizer for acid loving plants and a top coat of their acid lovers potting soil
The blooms are the same hot pink, same with Munstead Wood, I think the weather has more to do with bloom color.
A better test would be to try it on one of a pair of plants in the same potting mix in the same conditions and see if it makes a difference over time and how the plant grows
The pink one is really lovely and the white one looks very healthy, but I'm afraid you really can't keep roses inside, mirendajean. They'll have to go out as soon as possible in order to stay healthy and grow. It's a pity since the smaller roses would be so nice to have indoors, but they insist on having that fresh air circulation around them.
Ingrid
Many years I cut off dead canes right down to ground level ( I bury my bud union 3-4" below ground) & I rarely lose a rose to winter kill. Be patient with HT's & Gr's as they are slow to wake up. I have both mf & Dr. Huey rootstock & don't see a big difference in either one in my z4 garden.
My guess would be that bands are more successful in warmer areas where there is a much longer growing season and the winters are mild. I plant mine straight into the ground after about ten days and they've all done well, but even for me that first year is somewhat excruciating. It also depends on the variety; some roses are just inherently more vigorous than others on their own roots.
Ingrid
VERY true on the fact that many modern roses particularly HT's and Floribundas grow SLOWLY on their own roots. Some of the newest ht's and floribundas grow better on their own roots because in recent years the hybridizers have been growing the seedlings up on their own roots and so they know which new rose varieties can be grown own root.
Pretty much any rose that was introduced back in the stone ages of rose growing, 1800-1925 will grow very well on it's own roots and even a band size bush will grow quickly into the size that you desire. Polyantha's which started to be introduced in the early 1900's all do fantastic on their own roots. Floribundas which are a combination of polyanthas and hybrid teas by breeding in some cases grow very well and in other cases not so well.
Pigeonpea sterility has been lumped with the emaras in other papers. This is, apparently, the formal RNA support.
Pigeonpea is also transmitted by an eriophyid mite (not the same one as any other of the 'like' viruses, and has been doing horrible things to the pigeon pea crops which are / were major sources of protein for farmers.
There is one picture in a recent paper comparing sick and healthy pigeonpea plants. Some contortions of foliage and lack of flowering seem to be symptoms, but a discussion of the symptoms is something I'm still looking for.
I'm not sure--I prune only AFTER I see red shoots at the base of the rose. I am also in Zone 6 (but in Kansas) and there is plenty of red growth on all the roses.
If you have already pruned, all you can do is wait for Mother Nature to decide to do her thing. I did once have a rose that was always very late in starting its spring growth and I always concluded it was dead--and then a few weeks later, it would start growing. Different roses start their spring blooming at different times. My Mayflower (Austin) always started blooming first--several weeks before the other roses, for instance.
We will cross our fingers and hope for your roses. : )
Kate
It depends a lot on the rose itself. Some will sprout right away others are slower growers. It's also going to depend on the temperatures where you are and the amount of sunlight the rose gets. The warmer and sunnier it is the sooner they'll wake up because the soil will warm up quicker. If you're still having cold nights it may take them a while.
Hi Carlota. There are two rose societies sort of in your area. The San Bernardino Rose Society meets in Rancho Cucamonga, and the Riverside Rose Society meets at various homes. I don't belong to either, but have been in communication with consulting rosarians in both. The May meeting will be in the garden of one of my clients in the Colton (Reche Canyon) area. He has hundreds of roses, so it might be a fun one to attend. Feel free to mail me if you'd like more information.
-jannike
the_bustopher shows Crescendo above.
On the HMF page linked below (you'll have to click over to the description page afterward) we see Excellent ratings for color, form, hardiness, and disease resistance.
However, the rose is ONLY "good." Could someone explain that math to me? Also can anyone confirm or deny its blackspot resistance?
It's new.
Has it really been properly reviewed?
I have no experience with it, but, well, just look... In Florida
Here is a link that might be useful: 'Crescendo'
A more consistent link for "In Florida":
Here is a link that might be useful: Crescendo In Florida
Thanks for the replies.
Jackie, you're right that patience is needed with roses. But even if the roses bloomed spectacularly from those long main canes, the problem is that the corner, where we want the rose blooms, will remain bare.
I appreciate zyperiris' nudge toward watching the Zimmerman videos again. I found one of Paul's videos on YouTube regarding "pegging," which I've never heard of before. I think that may be the solution -- to bend the long canes back toward the center of the plant, or over the top and back down. Hopefully I can get the canes to bend in such a way that they primarily take up the space we originally allotted for the roses, resulting in blooms along the height of the arbor and not trailing off in different directions along the fence. And perhaps cutting out one of the large canes every year to inspire new growth. Like you said, Jackie, patience is a virtue.
And yes, Paul Zimmerman is such a treat to watch. Love him!
I had to cut a climbing Cecille Brunner WAY back to move her from the front of the house (she was eating the house....) across the driveway to a fence along our road. Here's what it looked like a week ago or so, when all new laterals were big enough to be seen. Outside the frame of the picture, at the base of the plant, are new small shoots leafing out (it was fairly nekkid before I chopped it back to move it, and REALLY nekkid once ready to lift and shuffle across the driveway).
The canes are just resting along the top line of the fence now, but they were tied to horizontal wire running through eyebolts across the front of the house, and will not go upright now that they have been trained to go sideways. Getting them to go sideways was quite the trick, and I used 24" pieces of jute twine to tie them loosely, and then once a week or so I snugged the ties up to get the thing flatter to the wire. My main canes are nearly 1" thick now, and were probably 1/2" thick when I started pulling them down to horizontal. The laterals are nearly twice as long now as they were in this picture.
Melinda
I usually don't use pesticides - just the garden hose. This year, though, I did use Bayer All-In-One, a systemic, about the end of February. I don't exhibit so a few bugs are welcomed. Aphids are food for several small birds, lacewings and other assorted critters. We've battled heat, cold and wind already during the past 3 weeks so haven't even had to deal much with powdery mildew this spring. Using a spray with imadicloprid will usually keep the aphids and thrips under control but, like Jim said, it isn't picky about which bugs it kills. Malathion, like carbaryl, can actually encourage summer pests, like whitefly and spider mites, because they kill off the predatory bugs.
The spray damage in your pictures probably was from the neighborhood spray application. The job of the leaf is to protect the cane and convert sunlight. If the leaf took the hit and the cane didn't, then the leaf did it's job. Most likely they were spraying glyphosate (RoundUp) for weeds and there was some spray drift. I'd just ignore the minor damage.
Thanks everyone for the input. The thrips here are the worst. Some of my roses buds are so distorted. As for the other critters I am pretty much ok with them. I am using Bayer 2n1 with systemic granules applied per the instructions. Last year it work great this year not so much.
Take them out of the pots they're in and plant them in the ground now. They are not too small. They will have a better chance of growing and establishing a large root ball to carry them through their first winter if you plant them now. If you wait until fall there's always a chance that they won't be established enough before the cold sets in. If it's anything like this last winter it came early and was relentless.
thank you for the responses. I will plant them this weekend.