22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
the_bustopher shows Crescendo above.
On the HMF page linked below (you'll have to click over to the description page afterward) we see Excellent ratings for color, form, hardiness, and disease resistance.
However, the rose is ONLY "good." Could someone explain that math to me? Also can anyone confirm or deny its blackspot resistance?
It's new.
Has it really been properly reviewed?
I have no experience with it, but, well, just look... In Florida
Here is a link that might be useful: 'Crescendo'
A more consistent link for "In Florida":
Here is a link that might be useful: Crescendo In Florida
Thanks for the replies.
Jackie, you're right that patience is needed with roses. But even if the roses bloomed spectacularly from those long main canes, the problem is that the corner, where we want the rose blooms, will remain bare.
I appreciate zyperiris' nudge toward watching the Zimmerman videos again. I found one of Paul's videos on YouTube regarding "pegging," which I've never heard of before. I think that may be the solution -- to bend the long canes back toward the center of the plant, or over the top and back down. Hopefully I can get the canes to bend in such a way that they primarily take up the space we originally allotted for the roses, resulting in blooms along the height of the arbor and not trailing off in different directions along the fence. And perhaps cutting out one of the large canes every year to inspire new growth. Like you said, Jackie, patience is a virtue.
And yes, Paul Zimmerman is such a treat to watch. Love him!
I had to cut a climbing Cecille Brunner WAY back to move her from the front of the house (she was eating the house....) across the driveway to a fence along our road. Here's what it looked like a week ago or so, when all new laterals were big enough to be seen. Outside the frame of the picture, at the base of the plant, are new small shoots leafing out (it was fairly nekkid before I chopped it back to move it, and REALLY nekkid once ready to lift and shuffle across the driveway).
The canes are just resting along the top line of the fence now, but they were tied to horizontal wire running through eyebolts across the front of the house, and will not go upright now that they have been trained to go sideways. Getting them to go sideways was quite the trick, and I used 24" pieces of jute twine to tie them loosely, and then once a week or so I snugged the ties up to get the thing flatter to the wire. My main canes are nearly 1" thick now, and were probably 1/2" thick when I started pulling them down to horizontal. The laterals are nearly twice as long now as they were in this picture.
Melinda
I usually don't use pesticides - just the garden hose. This year, though, I did use Bayer All-In-One, a systemic, about the end of February. I don't exhibit so a few bugs are welcomed. Aphids are food for several small birds, lacewings and other assorted critters. We've battled heat, cold and wind already during the past 3 weeks so haven't even had to deal much with powdery mildew this spring. Using a spray with imadicloprid will usually keep the aphids and thrips under control but, like Jim said, it isn't picky about which bugs it kills. Malathion, like carbaryl, can actually encourage summer pests, like whitefly and spider mites, because they kill off the predatory bugs.
The spray damage in your pictures probably was from the neighborhood spray application. The job of the leaf is to protect the cane and convert sunlight. If the leaf took the hit and the cane didn't, then the leaf did it's job. Most likely they were spraying glyphosate (RoundUp) for weeds and there was some spray drift. I'd just ignore the minor damage.
Thanks everyone for the input. The thrips here are the worst. Some of my roses buds are so distorted. As for the other critters I am pretty much ok with them. I am using Bayer 2n1 with systemic granules applied per the instructions. Last year it work great this year not so much.
To pinch or not to pinch...personal choice. If the plants are developing to your satisfaction, don't pinch. If they aren't, pinch. As for how long, until they seem to be growing and maturing to your satisfaction. I don't pinch everything because not everything NEEDS pinching. Those which begrudgingly produce growth, preferring to flower instead, I pinch until they appear to be growing as I wish them to. It's really that simple. Kim
Thanks for all the good advice! On the ones I have just planted in the ground or potted, I have pinched all buds. On my precious bands I got from Vintage last year and just repotted - I am pinching all but one bud. It is really important to me to have good root growth - so will definitely do it on the new roses. Ya'll's advice makes good sense - I just wasn't sure how many bud cycles to pinch.....now will look at the rose, and think I have enough sense to know when to and when not to.
I am finally seeing a bunch of buds in the last week - like, almost overnight they are pumping them out! Just cant wait to see the first ones start blooming!
Judith
I am of the opinion that Miracle Grow has so much nitrogen and one gets alot of growth but then the roses fall over. I think it really forces them when they are not ready. I prefer organics..good soil..BUT..if I get impatient I have used it to give my roses a boost..since I am in the PNW I get tired of waiting for blooms..but it comes at a price. The guy at the nursery said it is "Crack for roses". Lots of energy..but a crash at the end. If I was having a big party or something in my backyard and wanted to have lots of blooms I would give it a Miracle Grow bath...
I still think it would be a good idea to clean the crepe myrtle up a bit before putting in a rose.It would be so messy if the tree dies and gets knocked down once the rose is nice and big and mature. I think I'd prune and fertilize it ,not so much with the idea of nursing it back into shape for it's own sake, but with the concept that I'd want to create a valid support for my rose. Just my 2 cents....bart
Its a once blooming rambler. Please wait until after it blooms to do any pruning or you'll be cutting off the buds. DP wants to be a very large bush. If you're constantly pruning during the summer, you need to think about moving it to a spot where it can swallow a fence line.
Possibly related thread linked below. BTW, FdB is:
Here is a link that might be useful: Most fragrant red hybrid tea
And cutting will stimulate new growth. That looks like a hybrid tea of some kind. It will bloom in cycles all season long and cutting the blooms to take in or dead heading the spent ones is exactly what you want to do to keep it blooming. If you can post a few pictures of the blooms in different stages we might be able to name it for you.
While an exhibitor might change her mind after reading my posts in the thread linked below, this gardener sticks with 28F as being the temperature of concern IF the roses are NOT dormant.
Southern California knows very little about such lows.
There are always MANY variables to consider.
Best wishes.
Here is a link that might be useful: weather conditions
This post was edited by sandandsun on Mon, Apr 7, 14 at 15:08
I got them all planted today! I had to relocate a number of narcissus & tulips that were just starting to come up - guess I wasn't thinking about the rose hole sizes last fall ð My neighbors all came over to help (watch me dig!) & we got to visit for a while. Isn't it great to just be outside again?
Thanks for being willing to share your experience & knowledge!
Coral Dawn is a lovely rose, in my opinion. It's definitely on the thorny side, but it has a very nice scent, and I think the blooms are charming. I grow it because my Grandmother's name was Coral, and I learned to grow roses from her.