22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I don't want to give the impression that I really know what I'm talking about here--I don't think there have been trials that showed adding sulfate would help roses resist V-wilt. But it is true that roses build up sulfur internally as an immune response, and also true that they can't take up elemental sulfur from the soil. If you apply plain sulfur, over months or years, bacteria burn the sulfur and release acid, which then reacts with bases to form soluble, neutral sulfates such as gypsum and epsom salts. Meanwhile the pH goes down. If you want to get sulfur into the plant, it would be more efficient just to add the sulfate to the soil.
Neither gypsum nor epsom salts will affect pH much or contribute much to the buildup of harmful salts. Epsom salts can be harmful if there is already excess magnesium in the soil.
Gypsum is slow to dissolve, and four ounces added at planting time would last for a year or two, I think. It wouldn't hurt. I am just speculating that it might help.
Thanks for the tips Michael, and it's too late to try to give the impression you DON'T know what you're talking about. I realize these are educated guesses on your part, but I'll take that over many types of "expert" advice that gets published about roses.
Back to roseaholicme, the original poster - did you get enough information to help with your roses? You got some nice input from Amberroses in Florida about her strategies, and some advice from others for various fungicides that may help. I can't see any way the lizards in your yard would be contributing to the problem. Usually critters respond to food sources, and the fungal or wilt sources are usually spread because of air and weather conditions not critters. The lizards may be attracted to bugs that are more prevalent during various seasons, but it doesn't sound like your problem is bug-related either.
Hang in there, at the very least keep pruning below the damaged area, and feed with some alfalfa to promote new healthy canes in case the old ones keep showing the problem.
Cynthia
Right, but with cooler temperatures and less sunlight, roses cannot grow as fast, and so will need somewhat less fertilizer than in warmer seasons. This is true even in Florida zone 9, which gets a lot more winter sunlight than northern California.
Thank you for your suggestion, Dan. At this time my two insect problems are rose midge fly and cabbage moth caterpillars. They both affect the top/tip of new growth only. I direct a fine spray of Bayer Complete Insect Control only on the first 6 inches of new growth. Covering both sides of the leaves has not been necessary, just enough spray to just the drip stage. I do this every 10 days to two weeks. It takes very little spray and very little time to accomplish this.
If I use Merit as a soil fumigant (its the fumes that kill the midge and/or its pupae at soil level...just put your nose down there and smell for yourself). One can also smell the Merit, partidularly on a hot or humid day when one strolls through the roses. If you can smell it, it is poisoning you too, by breathing it in. A merit fumigation also kills earthworms and other beneficials, or poisons those that survive to the point where robins can be found lying dead in the rose garden...poisoned by eating contaminated earthworms and other insects.
Once a stem has buds developed to the size of a thimble for the hybrid tea type flowers, and adjusted smaller for the smaller blooming roses like Marie Pavie, the rose midge fly ignores the stem. I assume a more mature stem is not as 'tender/succulent' for midge maggots to damage, and either the female does not lay eggs on them or the eggs hatch and the maggots die? off.
Cabbage Moth caterpillars also desist damaging the foliage of new growth once buds are well formed, but in fact they never attack the buds in the first place (so far), and only do cosmetic damage to the foliage. They never go after foliage below the top six inches, again perhaps it is too tough for them or contains natural chemicals that repel them somehow.
Aphids and spider mites are easily controlled by washing them off with a direct, but gently water spray, usually repeated only once in a day or two. The spray is directed to the growing tips for aphids and to the underside of the lowest leaves for spider mites. It is remarkable how easy this method is to perform with great success...not using insecticides at all, just water.
Since I live in an old neighborhood in the inner city, there are few lawns of any size, thus my Japanese Beetle problems are very minimal. However my country/suburban friend's roses suffer terribly from late May to early September from Japanese Beetle hordes, due to the expansive lawns the prime feeding ground for Japanese Beetle larvae.
Again, thanks for the suggestion, but if you have an answer to my original question on battery powered sprayers I would surely appreciate your advice.
Back when we sprayed our roses, several things became apparent, some after decisions were made.
On a hill side, a loaded twenty gallon spray cart can drag an adult down hill. Limit the size of the reservoir to what you need and what your topography will allow your arm to pull.
Fewer plastic parts= better.
Many replacement parts are available at Farmer's Co-ops and can be upgrades on plastic.
Can the battery be recharged easily?
Are the wheels/tires the kind that can withstand penetration by rose thorns?
How easy is it to clean out? and how safe? Cleanliness between sprayings makes things much easier.
For your garden, how many gallons does it take for a spraying of the garden as the roses reach full size in late summer or fall?
You're in luck! Vintage Gardens still has it available, and they're having a sale (unfortunately, their going-out-of-business sale...). See link below. It's listed under "Ramblers".
:-)
~Christopher
Here is a link that might be useful: Ramblers at Vintage Gardens
If the Vintage plant is gone, try Foundation Plant Services at UC Davis. Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: Foundation Plant Services
The Kordesii climbers do very well in 5a, and many of the newer ones are every bit as beautiful as English roses, and easier to grow. Check out, for example, Rosanna, Laguna, Rosarium Uetersen. RU is quite simply, one of the greats, fabulous flower color and shape, easy to grow and almost never out of bloom. Both Pickering, which may be able to ship to the USA this year, and Palatine have good selections of hardy climbers.
Also look at another of the greats, Parade. Mine has grown like gangbusters--in zone 5a mind you, is fragrant, and shows very little BS in a very rainy year. Good bloom repeat, but not, so far, as rapid as RU.
I grow lots of roses in pots outside (roses are not house plants and do not do well inside) and I agree the pots need to be MUCH bigger. 20/25 gallon pots at least but you may go down to 15 gallons for a mini.. If you think about the size of the top part of the plant you need to have a root ball that is at least that big around underneath it to feed it.
But I disagree on the clay pots Terracotta or unglazed clay pots will suck moisture away from the soil and hold it so the roots can't get it. Besides that they weigh a TON! So if they have to be moved for any reason it's very difficult. I would look for those thick walled foam or resin pots. They look like real ceramic but weigh next to nothing and will not absorb the water.
I'm in a way colder zone so I can't really give you varieties but I would think that any of the evergreens or those that can't take the cold would be good for you. As Jackie suggested Chinas would be a good class to look at. As well as maybe Teas (not Hybrid Teas, they're different) and Noisettes too. Without knowing where you live we can't say what might be available to you though.
Hi Andrea, thanks. I don't see any need to alternate types, unless it satisfies your sensibilities. My comment simply meant to advise against over use of either type, separately or in combination. If a Tbs per gallon every other week is good, more, or more frequently of the same concentration is likely too much.
When I could get away with using organic fertilizers (which, now due to dogs everywhere; coyotes, racoons, rats, moles and and other "vermin" in my own yard/garden I can not), I used what was locally available easily and at an efficient cost. Grow More Organic. The All Purpose 5-5-5 was just fine. I'd mix it in equal amounts with Gro Power Plus inorganic, spread it around and water it in well every month. But, all of the above mentioned "critters" absolutely ADORE all of the organic ingredients. I don't wish to deal with a growing, year old Great Pyrenees rolling in, digging up and eating the final vestiges of "garden" remaining in "his domain". (not my dog, one with whom I have to battle to keep plants looking and performing as decently as possible. Nice, friendly dog, but not "garden friendly.") The more organics I add to my own environment, the more earthworms, hence moles; the more rabbits, squirrels, rats, racoons, etc. and more coyotes. No way to prevent them as we invaded THEIR turf and they are as opportunistic as we are about it.
But, Gro More was/is still the easiest for me to obtain and its cost has always been reasonable. Kim
I was thinking of alternating because I've read that the seaweed spray is great for the leaves, but doesn't provide enough nutrients for the rest of the plant.
I am sorry you have a garden MONSTER!!! So do I. His name is Painter and I rescued him. Now I'm the one that needs rescuing. He just loves to dig up my new babies.
His last target was Eglantyne. This plant was doing great a week ago, Then he partially dug her up. I guess we'll see how tough she is in the next week or so. He didn't actually break canes, but the upheaval may have been traumatic for her. I have one perfect Airedale princess and one monster that Stephen King probably created. Oh well, He's cute.
Once again, Thanks and have a great Halloween,
andrea
We haven't had any freezes here, but things are grinding rapidly to a halt as we approach Nov.8, the date when photosynthesis ceases in this northerly latitude since the short days of weak sun will no longer support it. Diane
I am very, very sorry about you losing your dog. People who don't have these special members of their family will never understand what it's like.
I'll probably get flamed for saying this, but I think it's unprofessional of the vet to plant assumptions in such a time of distress.
My grandmother's beagle romped the neighborhood where everyone is VERY close. One night she came back sick. She shortly thereafter died from kidney and liver failure and my grandmother was absolutely heartbroken.
A couple days later the neighbor from across the street came over to tell her he had found the radiator on one of their cars was leaking in the driveway and he had to tell her how sorry he was for not finding it sooner.
I had a dog that killed a rat that had eaten poison from the neighbors' barn (we don't use poison because it's indescriminate) and it also died.
Accidents happen. There are indeed terrible people in the world who hurt animals, but it's not always the case. I just think it's more hurtful in times like these to dwell on the idea that your pet was deliberately murdered.
Just my .02. Again, I'm terribly sorry your family is going through this. He looks like a wonderful dog.
I guess I havenâÂÂt been very clear. We live on a 100 acre family farm. Most people in the country around me donâÂÂt contain their dogs whatsoever, but we do keep ours in a fenced area about the size of a small suburban back yard if they are outside without us. When we are outside, we often let them out of their fencing to go back in the pasture with us or to the pond in our woods with us or simply to be in more of the 2 acre area we keep as our yard with us. They are allowed to run freely around those areas when we are outside as long as they stay on our property and within sight. We donâÂÂt normally have a problem with them trying to leave our property when off leash. Colt started wanting to venture farther sometimes. I donâÂÂt know whyâ¦it had not been an issue previouslyâ¦all our cats and dogs are spayed/neuteredâ¦I just donâÂÂt know why he was no longer able to be off leash. My cats have been on an invisible fence system for many years and never cross over its boundaries. They arenâÂÂt allowed outside when we arenâÂÂt out there or at night even with the invisible fence. The invisible fence wonâÂÂt protect them from animals coming into our yard, but does keep them from straying. When we started having the problem with Colt off leash back in August, we upgraded our existing invisible fence for the cats to their new Boundary Plus system which they market as virtually inescapable. We added a zone for Colt that encompassed the majority of our 2 acre âÂÂyardâ so he would have more room to roam than the âÂÂhardâ fenced area when we were outside. He escaped it for a short time this weekend and is now dead. Thanks to everyone for their concern, but I do regret I started this thread as itâÂÂs painful to keep rehashing.
Maybe try Lagerfeld (starlight)
They are beautiful silvery lavender and smell like heaven. Stems are super long with a group of blooms on top. This rose wants to grow long stems all the time. You can pick off the side buds to get one big bloom. Cut before fully opened so they will last longer in a vase. The mature opened flowers aren't spectacular and they dont have tons of petals. But the buds opening up to halfway opened are magnificent. Worth having if you want to bring roses in and you want a fragrant lavender.
I know my Dainty Bess, golden Wings and Mutabilis all close at night. I like the trait myself. Makes them look rather shy.
I bought quite a few of these older HTs from Vintage too. They are just starting to bloom - they are really interesting - one has a big full bloom of rich pink with lots of petals, another is a deep Chinese red......so sad to think all these are going to no longer be in commerce. Maybe one day enough budwood will be passed around and some nurseries will start carrying them again. I have Golden Wings - it is really a pretty thing! I saw an older bush that was blooming its head off, so had to have it.