22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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seil zone 6b MI

If I have significant losses I might buy a few new ones but I have a lot of potted ones that I can put in the ground to fill spots. So I don't really have to buy more. If I do decide to buy some it might not be until next season since there isn't a big choice locally. I can pick and choose online for next year.

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Kes Z 7a E Tn

I think that I will be more conscientious of finding out how well a rose handles temperature extremes. That has always been important but now it will be a top consideration. I don't think that this was the coldest winter on record for my area but it was cold enough and I expect that sooner or later we'll see another winter this cold again. I know that summer heat and humidity can be brutal, also and have lost more roses from that than I have from the cold. I have no problem choosing the tried and true Southern antiques. Most of them will came back eventually and will still be able to handle the heat. Some of the Buck roses do well for me, too. Most of the roses that I think I may have lost are relatively modern. I will have a "check twice and plant once" policy with them.

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lynnette

What's not to love about this climber. Yes it does have hooked thorns but does one really care!!

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bart_2010(8/9 Italy)

So, would you all say that Awakening is every bit as vigorous as New Dawn? I had the latter, and it was a good rose, but I had it in the wrong spot,in a very central area of my garden, on a path, with no real rigorous support, and it was a nightmare to prune. I moved it, but didn't keep up with the watering enough (it was a huge, mature plant, and I moved it too late in the season really). I want to replace it, but this time, put it in a more appropriate spot! I'd also like to get Awakening, but if it's habit is exactly like that of ND,I must choose it's spot with care...

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charleney(8a PNW)

Thank you all so much. We know how important "memory roses" are. I am trying it all and leaving it alone. This forum has given me all the right 'stuff' for about 10 yr. now.

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seil zone 6b MI

Save that Peace! A lot of people say that it has changed over time and is not the rose it once was because of over cloning, merely a pale imitation. I had a Double Delight that was my Mom's. I thought it was dead one spring. It had no new growth on it. 5 or 6 weeks later when I went to dig it out to plant the replacement I had bought it had one lowly sprout on it so I potted it up. It's now twice the size of the replacement DD! They can and do come back.

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sara_ann-z6bok

Years ago I had a Midas Touch and Spice Twice that weren't doing much where they were planted. My DH dug them up and put the roots in a bucket of water for what I think was well over a month, then planted them in a different spot, they both thrived after being transplanted.

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dublinbay z6 (KS)

I just received a plant from David Austin--moistened plant wrapped loosely several times in a somewhat heavy plastic. The instructions were to not soak the plant. Leave it wrapped in plastic in a place where it wouldn't freeze (the garage, in my case) and check occasionally to see that it is still moist. It recommended planting the rose fairly soon--though I've forgotten if that was within a few hours or a few days.

However, most of the other places I've ordered from in the past have said to soak the plant at least overnight to several days or a week--which is what I usually do. However, I can remember a couple times in the past--for one reason or another--having to leave the rose soaking for nearly a month. I planted those plants and they grew, but they never were the strongest plants--kinda weakly. I probably should have been more careful about changing the water (and/or adding a drop of bleach) if I had to keep them soaking that long.

My advice: try to plant the rose within a couple day, or at least no longer than a week, if at all possible, but if life interferes (or Mother Nature decides to send a rip-roaring storm for a couple weeks), don't panic--the roses will probably survive even if they have to soak for several weeks.

I only soak up to the graft, but I have sometimes sprayed the top canes so they wouldn't dry out too badly.

Kate

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Susanne27(5a Ontario Canada)

I really appreciate the responses and see that I am not alone in making my garden a priority. Subk3, I am very fortunate to have my home right now on the angle you mention. It is a century home and I don't know if it was put on this angle on purpose or not but like you mention, there is no really deep dark north side to the house. Thanks for the encouragement folks. I see that I will be able to grow roses probably on any property as long as there is room.

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Suzi AKA DesertDance So CA Zone 9b

We started out looking for land on which to plant. Moved from a small cramped HOA run golf community to acreage!

You might change your mind as you go. It got so we wouldn't even look at anything less than an acre. We went from a mandatory one story to a two story (keep us in shape in retirement). Then we went from flat land to an extreme rocky slope on a hillside with amazing views.

We have many windows, but none facing south. Not much grows on our north side because a two story home casts lots of shade.

There is plenty of room in full sun to plant on this property, and we are tackling a huge job, but it's a lot of fun! We have planted about 7 varieties of roses, and when we pruned, we put cuttings in the ground, and two have peeked up today. Those roses will be planted at the ends of our small vineyard.

Your zone limits what you can plant, but I wish you luck in finding the perfect home with plenty of room to garden.

Suzi

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bethnorcal9

Looks like HEIRLOOM to me.

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MK

Check out his photo I found on web for Heirloom Rose, someone in generic rose forum suggested this. Seems very close. Angel face is described as fruity and my rose's fragrance is quite dusky.

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Zyperiris(Seattle)

Watch Paul zimmermans video

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bibbus 7b(7b)

I did watch it but didn't think it at all fit my situation. That was a rose with very long laterals and not much of a bush. Mine is already well formed. I just was afraid it was too late to prune it. But I went ahead and shaped it up today and will post pictues when it blooms. Lots of leaves have come out even though we had 22 degrees on Wednesday. Its supposed to be almost 80 here this week. Go figure.

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mad_gallica(zone 5 - eastern New York)

You have to be careful pushing plants in the spring. While the horrific spring freezes aren't really part of our experience, a big part of that is because spring moves slowly in this part of the world. So when the thermometer plummets in late April, instead of screaming about death and destruction, there isn't much out there yet to die.

The best way I've heard to try and game the system is to apply slow release *organic* fertilizer early. When the soil and plants wake up, it will start working. By an amazing coincidence, this is the same time that the plants will be able to make use of the fertilizer. Then, when they are actively growing in May, the regular fast acting fertilizing can start.

The biggest factor I've found in how well they are going to grow is heat. Without that, there isn't a lot you can do. That is the real gating factor. Not food, not water, but heat.

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Zyperiris(Seattle)

The only time I would use a fast nitrogen is if I was having a big party in my yard or a wedding or something. Then I would use Miracle Grow for roses. BUT it's been my experience that it comes with a price. One gets alot of top growth and the roses get so leggy they fall over. I only use that if I'm so impatient I can't stand it. Otherwise..good organic soil and fish fertilizer is my favorite.

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Sow_what? Southern California Inland

Since this is a newly planted rose, I haven't had very many blooms yet (lots of buds). But it seems like the blooms I've had lasted a good while. I'm pretty novice at all this, so sorry for the stupid question: How long is long enough?

Thanks -jannike.

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Campanula UK Z8

I have other, much nicer white roses so CA was one which hit the compost pile (something I do rarely) but it was such a feeble little thing, it only took a flick of the spade.

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vasue VA(7A Charlottesville)

Wowser! Pappu, you're a master in this art! So glad you have a new garden awaiting your vision & skill. Thank you for sharing & thank you, andreark, for bringing this front & center again for our awe & delight!

Here is a link that might be useful: Pappu's Spring Flush '08

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deervssteve(9)

The pictures speak for themselves. My first reaction; mega dead head.

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kathy9norcal

I agree with Jackie. Cut it way back. It will need time to regrow its root system and you don't need long canes competing with roots. I have always cut the canes back when moving climbers.

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alameda/zone 8

Exactly what I thought - just wanted to hear from the experts! Thanks!
Judith

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floridarosez9

It does well here in the heat and humidity of Florida and is a heavy bloomer so far.

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Molineux(6b)

SOUVENIR DE LA MALMAISON is beloved throughout the Mid-Atlantic and the Deep South. It does particularly well in heat and humidity when other roses fail. It is also more resistant to black spot than most modern roses. This petite Bourbon is considered a classic and a most have for those who adore Old Garden Roses. Although short (it tops out at 3 feet and just as wide) it is vigorous and grows well on its own roots. You should definitely get it.

Image of SdlM by Archduke-z7b-8a-DFX-TX at Hortiplex

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richard(inland CA, 9a)

I've had a huge climbing Pink Peace on the back garden wall for 15 years. After the initial flush it produces some crazy long new branches during the summer, maybe 7 to 10 feet long. I've found that if I cut the tip, and tie down the end lower than the spot where it emerged from, it will flower like a pegged rose, all along the cane, a couple months later. This is in Bakersfield, where we have a very long growing season.

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windeaux

IMO, 'Peace, Cl.' is magnificent -- superior in every way to the bush form. I've always been mystified by the fact that the bush form was always a BS magnet in my garden, while its climbing sport remains healthy and largely disease free all season. I know a couple of other gardeners here in coastal Carolina who've made the same observation. It seems to me that when 'Peace' produced this sport, more was gained than simply a propensity to climb.

I was surprised (and envious) to read above about a 'Peace, Cl' that blooms prolifically all season long. My plant blooms heavily in the spring and (sometimes) throws a moderate number of blooms in early to mid autumn. The climbing form of 'Peace' is indeed a rampant grower -- which, I think, has contributed to its less than stellar reputation. Some gardeners try to keep it in bounds by pruning it heavily, then complain bitterly because it doesn't produce. 'Peace, Cl' blooms only on old wood. Prune it heavily and regularly and you're guaranteed a bloom-free plant. If you don't have room for a magnificent (albeit essentially once-blooming), very rampant climber, forget about 'Peace, Cl'.

Another climbing HT sport that I've been very impressed with is 'Gruss an Aachen, Cl'. Roses Unlimited is now the only U.S. source for that one.

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dublinbay z6 (KS)

Isn't Bloodmeal the organic form of nitrogen? Not sure what you would use for the potassium.

There is a version of Osmacote which is high in nitrogen--like 19--and low in phosphate and potassium--like 4 or 5, if I remember correctly. It is one of the time-release fertilizers. Read the panel on the back to get the right version.

Kate

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Alana8aSC

Blood meal for nitrogen and maybe banana peelings for potassium? There is also potassium phalsphate( Sp?). That's all I can think of ATM.

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jacqueline9CA

When we had our 3 story house painted we cut down all of the roses which were climbing on it (6 - 3 of which were huge monsters) to about 6-7 feet high. Then we wrapped them in burlap to protect them. The scaffolding was up for 5 weeks. By the end of the 5 weeks most of the roses had put out growth THROUGH the burlap! WIthin 1-2 years the roses were all as big as they had been before, and some of them looked better. So, when you or whoever get ready to stain your fence, you could wrap your roses in burlap - they should do fine that way for 2 months. Just a thought -

Jackie

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kathy9norcal

Great idea, Jackie. They would only need to be wrapped for a few hours! I will try that. It is better than a second pruning, I think.

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