22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
If it was my place, I would weed really good around the roses and wait for spring to see what happens and then document the roses as they start blooming. Kind of looks like there might be a fun rose treasure hunt out there.
Yes. However, sometimes cuttings put out new leaves before they have made roots, so you need to leave it right where it is (including inside of the produce bag - keep the bag blown up so it makes a little greenhouse). I would wait another 2-3 months to make sure it has time to really make roots before I would take the bag off and transplant it into a one gallon pot. Since it is indoors where it is so dry in the WInter, after transplanting it into a pot, I would still leave it under some kind of cover - I use huge soda pop bottles with the tops cut off.
Then when Spring comes you can gradually take off the pop bottle, and put it outside in partial shade for a few days, and then into full sun. Keep it well watered, and wait one year before planting it in the ground - by then it will be big enough to survive.
Presuming it survives, it will make a fine rose, just as good as any other. It will be own-root, of course. Do you know what rose this cutting came from?
Jackie
Man Made Global Warming? The 1975 Time Magazine had that famous (infamous) cover about Man Made Global COOLING..And as Mzstich mentioned, there is another pesky little fact about the "global" heat wave period during the middle ages that has yet to be rationalized away....There are real things to worry about. I'll not loose any sleep over this one, but you all go ahead.........Maryl
Henry...
Another alarmist title ... meh.
I guess we can plant these roses in our gardens to let us know that conditions are getting right for spider mites to be active. Kind of like a "canary in the mine". Right now, I have deVink's 'Cinderella' performing that task. If I see and incipient spider mite infestation on that rose, I know it's time to start washing my roses down to both cure the infestation on 'Cinderella' and to avoid infestations on the other roses in the garden.
Thanks for adding to the list of roses that can perform the same function.
Smiles,
Lyn
About rose midge - This insect is less than 1/8 of an inch long; it lays eggs on new growth and under the sepals of buds. They hatch and feed on the new growth causing it to turn brown and die. Buds don't develop. In about a week the midge falls to the ground and emerge from cocoons as adults to start the cycle all over. There won't be many blooms in a garden with midge as most of the buds will be destroyed. The first sign of a midge infestation is a tiny crisp, burnt like piece of foliage at the tip of new growth. Also, the very top leaf is usually distorted.
Here's a link to Baldo's site on rose midge with some pictures. It is an old page as it mentions diazinon as a treatment, which has been banned, but the pictures are helpful.
Oregon State Univ also has a good page with pictures and more up to date treatments-
http://oregonstate.edu/dept/nurspest/rose_midge.htm
A friend of mine has rose midge; she didn't want to use a chemical control so destroyed most of her roses hoping to replant in a couple of years. the cultural controls she tried didn't work for her. Also, there have been some discussions on rose midge here as a number of people have dealt with it. If you search you can find old threads discussing it.
Disclaimer: I know the above only by reading, I've not seen it myself. I've also read pesticide burn can look like rose midge, but that's probably not a problem in your garden? Gean
Here is a link that might be useful: Baldo Villegas, rose midge pictures
Steve, thank you, that's exactly what I needed to know about the canes.
Kippy, I had not seen that one! You're right, the color matches Purple Splash perfectly. Since I can't find an HT purple maybe a Stormy Weather/Purple Splash/Stormy Weather trio would give a pleasant affect.
Thank you!
A university soil test through your extension service should be pretty dang accurate.
Nematodes and PH are definitely possible culprits. Other possibilities could be soil history if you haven't lived their long. A previous owner could have dumped something in that soil that wouldn't show up on a standard soil test. Common culprit would be thats where they parked the car when changing oil/flushing out antifreeze.
My roses are grafted onto fortuniana. Though I have some old roses that do well here own root but not in this area. So nematodes shouldn't be as much of an issue. Other plants do well here in the soil with nematodes, but again not in this area. We've lived here for 14 years. This bed used to grow gorgeous roses, but not anymore. Michael good suggestion on the kitty litter.
Hi View1NY, well, I cut them back hard today and buried them in a pot with a good mix of potting soil and my own organic compost. We'll see who comes back!!
Yes, I bought them on ebay from a seller named Rio0776 out of California and I was extremely impressed with the size and health of the plants when they arrived and how long they lasted during my negligence!! :(
He's out of roses for this season but I've got him saved as a favorite seller and really don't want to buy from anyone else. The rootballs were substantial and full of good soil, and the rootstock is so fat and green on his plants and the shoots had new growth right away. I'll buy again and again from him no worries.
Eco~
eco, thanks for the info. I saved that ebay seller so that I'll have it handy when I make my spring order.
Have you ever ordered an own root rose from that seller? I'm in Brooklyn NY & my climate is pretty similar to yours. The roses I have are all grafted onto Dr. Huey & was thinking about trying an own-root rose next time. I'm curious about how it would do but really don't have the patience to wait years to see a decent-sized plant. Any info would be appreciated.
Sulfur kills or repels bad spider mites (Two-Spotted Mite) as well. I never had a mite outbreak during the years that I used it. However, the TSMs can develop resistance to sulfur, and then you have a big problem because the sulfur suppresses the predatory mites that normally help control the TSM. This commonly occurs in agriculture--not so much in home gardens, but it is possible.
As Nicki says, potassium bicarbonate (Remedy, Green Cure) is probably a better choice for powdery mildew on roses. But sulfur is also somewhat effective against blackspot and rose rust.
Hi all, I'm new here but I'm buying some late season potted roses and cant decide between some beautiful orange and multicolor ones for here in NJ. Can anyone advise on these?
My color scheme is mostly lavender/mauve, peach/pink and white with some deep pink/purple and orange accents.
Chihuly floribunda, George Burns floribunda, Easy Does It floribunda, Living Easy floribunda and Joseph's Coat climber, Polka climber...which of the 4 floribundas (cant decide between Easy Does It and Living Easy) and 2 climbers do you think I should choose?
Thanks all!
In addition to the possibility of herbicide spray damage, I feel that the public needs to be aware of the possibility of herbicide passage through the soil, i.e. rose roots absorbing herbicide, see link below.
Here is a link that might be useful: my link on subject
Diane,
What's the difference between maiden and own root?
The "maidens" are budded (grafted, on R. multiflora rootstock) bareroots, but you see the process of the budded variety growing early in the process. It is thoroughly described in the link.
As per Steve's page: A maiden is a rose that has been newly grafted. Unlike most grafted roses which are sold as #1 bushes, maidens are field grafted in summer, dug and shipped the same fall, a full year before most of the large growers harvest and ship their #1 grade roses.
Own root plants are cuttings taken from the variety and rooted, they are not grafted to another rootstock.