22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Steve, thank you, that's exactly what I needed to know about the canes.
Kippy, I had not seen that one! You're right, the color matches Purple Splash perfectly. Since I can't find an HT purple maybe a Stormy Weather/Purple Splash/Stormy Weather trio would give a pleasant affect.
Thank you!
A university soil test through your extension service should be pretty dang accurate.
Nematodes and PH are definitely possible culprits. Other possibilities could be soil history if you haven't lived their long. A previous owner could have dumped something in that soil that wouldn't show up on a standard soil test. Common culprit would be thats where they parked the car when changing oil/flushing out antifreeze.
My roses are grafted onto fortuniana. Though I have some old roses that do well here own root but not in this area. So nematodes shouldn't be as much of an issue. Other plants do well here in the soil with nematodes, but again not in this area. We've lived here for 14 years. This bed used to grow gorgeous roses, but not anymore. Michael good suggestion on the kitty litter.
Hi View1NY, well, I cut them back hard today and buried them in a pot with a good mix of potting soil and my own organic compost. We'll see who comes back!!
Yes, I bought them on ebay from a seller named Rio0776 out of California and I was extremely impressed with the size and health of the plants when they arrived and how long they lasted during my negligence!! :(
He's out of roses for this season but I've got him saved as a favorite seller and really don't want to buy from anyone else. The rootballs were substantial and full of good soil, and the rootstock is so fat and green on his plants and the shoots had new growth right away. I'll buy again and again from him no worries.
Eco~
eco, thanks for the info. I saved that ebay seller so that I'll have it handy when I make my spring order.
Have you ever ordered an own root rose from that seller? I'm in Brooklyn NY & my climate is pretty similar to yours. The roses I have are all grafted onto Dr. Huey & was thinking about trying an own-root rose next time. I'm curious about how it would do but really don't have the patience to wait years to see a decent-sized plant. Any info would be appreciated.
Sulfur kills or repels bad spider mites (Two-Spotted Mite) as well. I never had a mite outbreak during the years that I used it. However, the TSMs can develop resistance to sulfur, and then you have a big problem because the sulfur suppresses the predatory mites that normally help control the TSM. This commonly occurs in agriculture--not so much in home gardens, but it is possible.
As Nicki says, potassium bicarbonate (Remedy, Green Cure) is probably a better choice for powdery mildew on roses. But sulfur is also somewhat effective against blackspot and rose rust.
Hi all, I'm new here but I'm buying some late season potted roses and cant decide between some beautiful orange and multicolor ones for here in NJ. Can anyone advise on these?
My color scheme is mostly lavender/mauve, peach/pink and white with some deep pink/purple and orange accents.
Chihuly floribunda, George Burns floribunda, Easy Does It floribunda, Living Easy floribunda and Joseph's Coat climber, Polka climber...which of the 4 floribundas (cant decide between Easy Does It and Living Easy) and 2 climbers do you think I should choose?
Thanks all!
In addition to the possibility of herbicide spray damage, I feel that the public needs to be aware of the possibility of herbicide passage through the soil, i.e. rose roots absorbing herbicide, see link below.
Here is a link that might be useful: my link on subject
I got the Black Cherry Floribunda and Monkey Business from J&P a few weeks ago as well and although they were large cuttings, they were still bareroot cuttings.
As long as the roots are hardy then they should survive but when I planted J&P roses last year late in the year they struggled the following year (my Disneyland is barely over five inches tall this year). I would make sure the ground is mulched around them. You didn't by any chance plant them next to the house did you? That would increase their chances due to protection from the wind and some warmth radiating from the house.
It says a lot about the quality of the new J&P that they sent these out to such a cold zone this late in the season. Most good nurseries would have set a date for shipment next spring. In your zone these are going to be very hard pressed to survive this winter. I know that Mad is correct that heavy mulching can cause disease problems but personally I think it's the only chance these have of making it through your winter.
Hopefully you planted them deep. Even if they are own root plants deeper is better in your zone. Instead of mulching with leaves I would suggest mounding them as high as possible with soil. You can actually bury them completely, like they do when they do the Minnesota tip. If you do this make sure that you put markers around them so you know where they are and can find them and unbury them come spring.
I don't ever recommend keeping roses in the house. It's a very tricky thing to do. They need much more humidity than a normal house has and even with lights they won't be happy. They also tend to have terrible problems with spider mites as well. If they were still potted I would suggest getting one of the small free standing green houses to put them in, outside, for the winter. The green house was very inexpensive at Big Lots (you can also find them on line this time of year) and I've had very good results with doing this with my seedlings and new cuttings.
Yes, apparently the plumbing of the rose runs more vertical than horizontal, with roots on one side more connected to the canes on that side. You may have to dig the plant and bare-root the part you are trying to save. It is worth trying this if the crown is splittable, but, with those own-roots that make a tap root, you can't split it. Perhaps you could get a bit of root with a cane stub and treat it like a cutting.
I tried splitting twice and it didn't work, but I would try it again. I drove a hatchet blade with a heavy hammer to divide the plant. The plants survived but RRD symptoms recurred.
I have been fighting spider mites!!!!
Will they destroy the tiny new growth when it first pops out from the bud-eye?
I will get some pics tomorrow in the daylight.
About rose midge - This insect is less than 1/8 of an inch long; it lays eggs on new growth and under the sepals of buds. They hatch and feed on the new growth causing it to turn brown and die. Buds don't develop. In about a week the midge falls to the ground and emerge from cocoons as adults to start the cycle all over. There won't be many blooms in a garden with midge as most of the buds will be destroyed. The first sign of a midge infestation is a tiny crisp, burnt like piece of foliage at the tip of new growth. Also, the very top leaf is usually distorted.
Here's a link to Baldo's site on rose midge with some pictures. It is an old page as it mentions diazinon as a treatment, which has been banned, but the pictures are helpful.
Oregon State Univ also has a good page with pictures and more up to date treatments-
http://oregonstate.edu/dept/nurspest/rose_midge.htm
A friend of mine has rose midge; she didn't want to use a chemical control so destroyed most of her roses hoping to replant in a couple of years. the cultural controls she tried didn't work for her. Also, there have been some discussions on rose midge here as a number of people have dealt with it. If you search you can find old threads discussing it.
Disclaimer: I know the above only by reading, I've not seen it myself. I've also read pesticide burn can look like rose midge, but that's probably not a problem in your garden? Gean
Here is a link that might be useful: Baldo Villegas, rose midge pictures