22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
You know, Sara, if you really would like to keep them in the pots instead of the ground there is a thing called root pruning that would let you do that. Since I keep a lot of roses in pots permanently I've had to learn how to do that.
There are variables, of course, the vigor of the plant, the pot size and such, but in a cold zone you usually would only have to do this about every 3 to 5 years. I can tell when one of my pots needs to be root pruned when I water it. If the water goes in the top and almost immediately starts running out the bottom that usually tells me the rose is root bound in the the pot and there isn't much soil left in there.
Early spring is the best time to do it because you will be pruning back the plant anyway so pruning off some of the roots shouldn't hurt it. You don't want to have fewer roots with a huge plant on top that it can't feed. Besides it's going into full growth mode and will start growing those root back quickly. Let the pot get a little dry. This helps to keep the root ball easier to handle. Slip out the root ball and carefully trim off some of the bottom and sides of the root ball. I trim mine by about half. Then repot the plant with fresh potting soil. Water it well and it should start to grow again in no time.
Hope that helps!
It's seems that are Jekyll/Hyde Horticos: the good one and the bad one. I've bought there for the past 20+ years, because they usually stock varieties I can't find anywhere else. And sometimes I've had plants delivered that I couldn't possibly improve on--big, plump roots carefully wrapped and still moist. But other times...one year instead of 3 Ballerinas, they sent me one B. and 2 Sally Holmes, all tagged as Ballerina. Two years ago my order was missent to San Diego, and 3 weeks later arrived in CT, totally dessicated. To their credit, they are replacing the 3 that died, out of 4--but only after insisting that they're packed to survive at least 3 weeks! Well, good luck with that. I vowed never to return. But then, when I couldn't locate City of York anywhere (Googling hard), guess who had it. The grower you love to hate.
It's seems that are Jekyll/Hyde Horticos: the good one and the bad one. I've bought there for the past 20+ years, because they usually stock varieties I can't find anywhere else. And sometimes I've had plants delivered that I couldn't possibly improve on--big, plump roots carefully wrapped and still moist. But other times...one year instead of 3 Ballerinas, they sent me one B. and 2 Sally Holmes, all tagged as Ballerina. Two years ago my order was missent to San Diego, and 3 weeks later arrived in CT, totally dessicated. To their credit, they are replacing the 3 that died, out of 4--but only after insisting that they're packed to survive at least 3 weeks! Well, good luck with that. I vowed never to return. But then, when I couldn't locate City of York anywhere (Googling hard), guess who had it. The grower you love to hate.
Here's the opposite: I took two canes on Duchess de Brabant and tied them to the outside two stakes in the picture. The growth on the top is too tall for the deer, so I will get some blooms. The rest of the bush is sprawling and anything I get from those canes will be a bonus.
I believe that the original Kiftsgate rose was planted many years ago as an unsupported shrub. It didn't mind, it just took over half a border.
Daisy
Here is a link that might be useful: The original Kiftsgate
If you like a good, nonfading yellow for Arizona heat I can totally recommend MELLOW YELLOW. It didn't have a lot of fragrance for me in the blast furnace area that I planted it in. Sure loved the heat!! And it always came through our winters with flying colors. No diseases at all, but then my garden is semi-arid. That's all that I recall on growing this one. Sorry I don't have any experience in growing Summer Love, Happy Go Lucky, or Sparkle & Shine. :)
This post was edited by dove_song on Thu, Mar 20, 14 at 19:09
wait until the forsythia blooms in your area (it is a large shrub with yellow flowers). It should be in the next few weeks (the ones here are late this year).
Double KO doesn't need anything special for pruning, hedge clippers would be fine. Use hand pruners to take out any dead or damaged canes.
Any of these suggestions are good but you have to be very careful to remove covers during the day so they don't over heat inside and fry. Particularly with the bell jars or pop bottles because they will magnify the sun. At least with the cardboard if you forget it will be in shade not sun.
Everything above will either be complicated or will lead to rot on hot days.
What I do is mound chickweed around the new growth. Chickweed has a high water content, continues (for a while) to live after it's been pulled up by the roots, won't add to any propensity to rot, can by grown through by new rose growth, is free (and most of us have it readily available at this time of the year.)
It won't be blown off by spring winds (boxes), it won't magnify the strength of the sun.
It's easy and will eventually (about May) die on its own and become compost.
Wow, that's ethereal!! Would make a lovely picture to hang on your wall. Since I've started with the hybridizing, I'm quite drawn to stamens/anthers. Those look so dainty on your little rose!!!
Great going!!
I just got the baby, wee seedlings planted (they looked really pale with long, long roots) and then did the seeds I had in the fridge, then I went to the garage and got the hips from the roses in the garage. These might not work, since they weren't ripe enough when I put the roses in the garage. I have 72 future roses (hopefully) planted and under the lights as of today! Yay!
But, I'm not holding out much hope - but we have to learn somehow!! Even if I get just one, it'll be wonderful.
Carol
Congratulations Carol! Those from the garage may work. They're usually ripe and viable after something like a bit under 120 days from pollination. Don't give up on them just because you think they may not be "ripe". They just might surprise you. I've had friends tell me they've thrown away seeds because they were "too old", yet some have raised viable seedlings from seed collected many years previously. The same holds with pollen. I know people who obtain actual crosses from pollen they've held off refrigeration for several months. Nature always has a way. Think of the centuries old Lotus seed they've raised. The best example is Methuselah, the 2.000 year old Judean date palm raised from a pit they unearthed in excavations at Masada, Israel. I would suggest it just shows we should try more "out there" things like this as they just MIGHT work! Good luck! Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: Judean date palm
I'm in Northern Cal. I have had some bloom already and many more are also at this stage. Mine take about 1-3 weeks from this stage. It seems to depend on how long they will eventually last on the bush. For example, I have had a dozen blooms this size on my Pope John for over a week. But PJP takes LONG to open and even LONGER to last on the bush. If you know they will last on the bush for a long time, I would plan 3 weeks for my party. If they are not as long lasting, I would plan 10 - 14 days.
I'm fairly new at this, but I scrutinize my babies very well.
Andreark
Jasminerose - the place is called Eye of the Day Garden Design Center and their socal location is in Carpinteria...short drive from LA
I know there are other places but I'm not sure what they have is actually French, but still lovely I imagine. I have yet to scout those places. Real or quality imitation, none of it is cheap. Oyvey~
My roses aren't doing much yet. This is a good thing, though. The colder the winter here, the better the spring flush when it comes a little later than normal. The plantains are brown mush, but the peach tree is in full bloom and I haven't seen a flea or mosquito since December.
There isn't cold that could possibly come to south Louisiana that would make a rose bat an eye. If we have a cold winter, they get an unusual dormancy period which they need to look their best for us.
I am across the Lake in St. Tammany. I am finally starting to see tiny buds forming on several of my plants. So I would expect by the end of March the "flush" will be starting. I have also heard before that the colder the winter, the prettier the roses in spring, so I'm excited!
I think I see some green at the bottom. Throw some clean bark mulch down and protect her until it is your time to prune. I bet you will find new growth when you uncover. I had the same situation in Chicago....never got around to protecting them. I think she will be ok. Remember the bunnies like the tender new shoots.
And then there are some people who don't ever consider covering their roses for winter...and the roses survive, even in zone 4 (Me.) Your baby looks good and green at the base to me - so don't despair. Follow the pruning instructions already mentioned but not for a while yet - not until the weather settles into spring a bit further and watch for the yellow forsythia bloom as Seil says for your cue.
I have pruned own root (and grafted, too) roses right down to soil level and have had plenty of bloom that season. All will be well.
Espoma Plant-tone will work just fine for roses, and your other plants as well. I use Espoma Holly-tone.
Thanks for reminding me of backflow preventer. I took if off because I was trying to figure out the order of installing different parts. I woke up one night at 2am to what sounded like rain only to find out that it was the water spraying out from the backflow thingy. I bought a new one but forgot to install it.
OTOH, the emitters are dripping but at 1G I probably need to put it on for 1 hour for the roses that are in 7 gallon pots.