22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
If you like a good, nonfading yellow for Arizona heat I can totally recommend MELLOW YELLOW. It didn't have a lot of fragrance for me in the blast furnace area that I planted it in. Sure loved the heat!! And it always came through our winters with flying colors. No diseases at all, but then my garden is semi-arid. That's all that I recall on growing this one. Sorry I don't have any experience in growing Summer Love, Happy Go Lucky, or Sparkle & Shine. :)
This post was edited by dove_song on Thu, Mar 20, 14 at 19:09
wait until the forsythia blooms in your area (it is a large shrub with yellow flowers). It should be in the next few weeks (the ones here are late this year).
Double KO doesn't need anything special for pruning, hedge clippers would be fine. Use hand pruners to take out any dead or damaged canes.
Any of these suggestions are good but you have to be very careful to remove covers during the day so they don't over heat inside and fry. Particularly with the bell jars or pop bottles because they will magnify the sun. At least with the cardboard if you forget it will be in shade not sun.
Everything above will either be complicated or will lead to rot on hot days.
What I do is mound chickweed around the new growth. Chickweed has a high water content, continues (for a while) to live after it's been pulled up by the roots, won't add to any propensity to rot, can by grown through by new rose growth, is free (and most of us have it readily available at this time of the year.)
It won't be blown off by spring winds (boxes), it won't magnify the strength of the sun.
It's easy and will eventually (about May) die on its own and become compost.
Wow, that's ethereal!! Would make a lovely picture to hang on your wall. Since I've started with the hybridizing, I'm quite drawn to stamens/anthers. Those look so dainty on your little rose!!!
Great going!!
I just got the baby, wee seedlings planted (they looked really pale with long, long roots) and then did the seeds I had in the fridge, then I went to the garage and got the hips from the roses in the garage. These might not work, since they weren't ripe enough when I put the roses in the garage. I have 72 future roses (hopefully) planted and under the lights as of today! Yay!
But, I'm not holding out much hope - but we have to learn somehow!! Even if I get just one, it'll be wonderful.
Carol
Congratulations Carol! Those from the garage may work. They're usually ripe and viable after something like a bit under 120 days from pollination. Don't give up on them just because you think they may not be "ripe". They just might surprise you. I've had friends tell me they've thrown away seeds because they were "too old", yet some have raised viable seedlings from seed collected many years previously. The same holds with pollen. I know people who obtain actual crosses from pollen they've held off refrigeration for several months. Nature always has a way. Think of the centuries old Lotus seed they've raised. The best example is Methuselah, the 2.000 year old Judean date palm raised from a pit they unearthed in excavations at Masada, Israel. I would suggest it just shows we should try more "out there" things like this as they just MIGHT work! Good luck! Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: Judean date palm
I'm in Northern Cal. I have had some bloom already and many more are also at this stage. Mine take about 1-3 weeks from this stage. It seems to depend on how long they will eventually last on the bush. For example, I have had a dozen blooms this size on my Pope John for over a week. But PJP takes LONG to open and even LONGER to last on the bush. If you know they will last on the bush for a long time, I would plan 3 weeks for my party. If they are not as long lasting, I would plan 10 - 14 days.
I'm fairly new at this, but I scrutinize my babies very well.
Andreark
Jasminerose - the place is called Eye of the Day Garden Design Center and their socal location is in Carpinteria...short drive from LA
I know there are other places but I'm not sure what they have is actually French, but still lovely I imagine. I have yet to scout those places. Real or quality imitation, none of it is cheap. Oyvey~
My roses aren't doing much yet. This is a good thing, though. The colder the winter here, the better the spring flush when it comes a little later than normal. The plantains are brown mush, but the peach tree is in full bloom and I haven't seen a flea or mosquito since December.
There isn't cold that could possibly come to south Louisiana that would make a rose bat an eye. If we have a cold winter, they get an unusual dormancy period which they need to look their best for us.
I am across the Lake in St. Tammany. I am finally starting to see tiny buds forming on several of my plants. So I would expect by the end of March the "flush" will be starting. I have also heard before that the colder the winter, the prettier the roses in spring, so I'm excited!
I think I see some green at the bottom. Throw some clean bark mulch down and protect her until it is your time to prune. I bet you will find new growth when you uncover. I had the same situation in Chicago....never got around to protecting them. I think she will be ok. Remember the bunnies like the tender new shoots.
And then there are some people who don't ever consider covering their roses for winter...and the roses survive, even in zone 4 (Me.) Your baby looks good and green at the base to me - so don't despair. Follow the pruning instructions already mentioned but not for a while yet - not until the weather settles into spring a bit further and watch for the yellow forsythia bloom as Seil says for your cue.
I have pruned own root (and grafted, too) roses right down to soil level and have had plenty of bloom that season. All will be well.
My Golden Cel has languished the last few years, but since I dumped a load of my composted horse manure on it, it is looking much better. I looked at it yesterday - and was pleased. Going to put some Carl Pool BR 61 on it too, as well as alfalfa, Epsom salts and Mills Magic Rose Mix. Our soil is just now starting to warm up so things should start picking up.
A climber you REALLY should get is Crepuscule. Gorgeous peach ice cream blooms, it is fabulous - I do believe it is my very favorite climber. Blooms are small but cover the plant. You wont be sorry you got this one. I also love the color of Pink Don Juan. You probably wont see much bloom at Chamblees, but I bought this one in the fall and have seen them bloom there.
Aloha is another good one. I have an old one that is upright and just blooms all the time. Like it so much I bought another when I was there last week.
Another, that I saw blooming its head off a year ago in Chamblees "back 40" test garden is Pinata - its an old one, but was huge and blooming like mad in the middle of the heat. They don't spray or water anything back there - test the roses to see what does well and boy, did Pinata deliver! I got one last year and its doing well.
Oh and how could I forget Dublin Bay?? It is red - I have 2 of them and they are just wonderful! Reliable bloom, a wonderful climber.
I don't have it but have seen Fourth of July in bloom and it is gorgeous and have heard good things about it.
Jacobs Robe is a pretty thing in bloom but I haven't tried it. If you need a white, Climbing Iceberg is good.
I have Lady Ashe [actually Dixieland Linda] and got this a long time ago. I was just pruning off old dead blooms from last year this morning - strong healthy climber, blooms lots, shiny disease free leaves. I used to grow Seminole Wind, very pretty color, but lost it due to my chickens scratching around the base of it. Plan to replace it one of these days. Am also going to get a Westerland the next time I go [forgot to get that this time around].
Don't limit yourself just to Austins - there are other really good climbers in addition to Austins - I adore Austin roses, just ordered 6 and am getting them in the ground this afternoon! Be forewarned - you are going to be overwhelmed with the choices. Want always overrides need when I go to Chamblees - I just figure, life is short, eat dessert first so I load the truck up........you will have a great time! And do post what you get!!
Judith
I have HTs that are at least 10 to 15 years old and they are not one cane wonders and never have been. It depends on the rose. It can also depend on the micro climate in your yard and the care you give it. There are no hard and fast rules for roses. That's why I always say to give things a try in your garden and make your own decisions on what works for you and what doesn't.
I live near Allentown, PA which should be near you. I have ten HT's here that grow well without winter protection. Most winters there is little die back. I'm guessing this winter has killed more cane but I expect everyone to survive.
That said, I have reduced my HT collection. As Mad Gallica posted, "its a combination of the winters and the summers". Fungal diseases weaken them in the summer. Winter cold and moisture a little more...
There are many "other" roses which are easier to grow and are just as satisfying. There is a long list of Antiques, Austins, Bucks and shrub roses which thrive in zone 6.
I recommend the Buck rose "Earth Song" if you want an HT look:
All evergreens drop their leaves continually throughout the season. As long as you don't dive in, grubbing about underneath the holly, you won't find it too onerous....but if this is part of a scheme which requires regular weeding, just be aware that prickly holly leaves get very lignified (woody and dry) and hang around for a long time - wear gloves and don't kneel on any. I agree, holly is a wonderful resource for birds throughout the year. I looked this holly up - it looks like a great background tree which would show your roses off very well indeed - in England, yew is frequently used as hedges to give this same look - a very classic combination, I think, which will be worth enduring the odd pricks for.
Yes, it could be a great background tree. In my climate it wants to be a tree, not a shrub. I don't know how it would respond to the heat in TX..it might get even bigger than it does here or it might not thrive in heat. I guess you can see what they do in your area. I would not want to have to keep pruning it to keep it smaller but that's me. Your rose bed might be big enough for a couple of trees.
I've seen sap flowing from roses after pruning more than once. The plant should be fully awake and the cane thick and green in order for this 'weeping' to be very noticeable. As Camps mentioned this is very noticeable in grapevines if pruned when they have come out of dormancy and it can take days for the sap to stop flowing.
Nik
Here's the opposite: I took two canes on Duchess de Brabant and tied them to the outside two stakes in the picture. The growth on the top is too tall for the deer, so I will get some blooms. The rest of the bush is sprawling and anything I get from those canes will be a bonus.
I believe that the original Kiftsgate rose was planted many years ago as an unsupported shrub. It didn't mind, it just took over half a border.
Daisy
Here is a link that might be useful: The original Kiftsgate