22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

For what it's worth, my Hansa at my old house regularly defoliated with blackspot like yours, and in fact rarely had leaves on it. I got one bloom cycle of perhaps 5-6 blooms in early spring, then the whole bush would decline the rest of the summer. It was recommended by a local nursery in my early rose growing days, but I would absolutely not recommend it for disease resistance around here either. In contrast, Linda Campbell, Rountuit, and Therese Bugnet are rugosas with no BS trouble in my zone, so it seems that Hansa is particularly susceptible to the variety of BS in this area.
Cynthia

I will have to think about what to do about the hansa over the winter....may give it another chance to see if it develops bs next year.....pretty disheartening, since it is very vigous and blooms a number of times through the summer....
I have a large Therese Bugnet (not far away) and it is disease free as well.....I must admit that my Bugnet is one of my favourites!! Fragrant and vigorous as well......

Oh, & as probably mentioned in the other orange thread, I'm growing the floribunda Orangeade because of Kim's affection for it.
It's too young to comment much on yet, but I have let it throw a couple of blooms & they are the most intense, blazing, saturated !!!ORANGE!!! you can imagine--think deep, poppy orange on a rose bush. Really looking forward to it as a mature bush. It's an own-root from Vintage but I bet RU & Burling have it.

Glad this post has been helpful and thanks to folks for filling in points that I'd missed. Michael and Kate are right that burying the graft (the knobby part) of a rose is one of the better winter survival strategies for a rose, since the couple of inches that need to survive are under the ground, and the ground protects that graft. A little leaf coverage around the base, including well-shredded miscellaneous leaves as Seil says, can add all the protection many of us need. Since that leaf coverage also provides spring mulch around the rose, it's a terrific strategy for lazy gardeners like me!
Jim, you are indeed cruel, but not necessarily too early in your post. We had 3 feet of snow in western Nebraska last week, and parts of the Dakotas and Colorado are still digging out.
Toolbelt - don't waste any time kicking yourself over missed insights in past years of not knowing about GW. Just keep joining in the fun of the discussions, and sharing what you've learned with your friends and neighbors, so they get hooked on the rose bug too!
Zaphod, all of these principles apply to band roses as much as any other type of rose, with the added caution that the tender canes are more susceptible to things like moisture and critter gnawing. I plant all my bands in the ground too, though I try not to buy them too late in the summer, and any relatively scrawny plant is going to benefit more from winter protection than a well-established rooted plant. However, even a little canker or squashing from your protection methods can be enough to make it give up, if it doesn't have much of a root system. My method stays the same, to put protection around but not touching the rose, and one-twig wonders, I may make that protection as high as the rose (not usually a problem for scrawny runts) but make sure nothing is touching the base. Beyond that, I keep track of how poor the growth is in its first year, and I might try a more substantial plant (or heaven help me, keeping in a pot over winter like Seil suggests) if it doesn't grow fast enough to survive as a band.
Bottom line is give some basic protection a try, but don't kill baby bands with too much material over their little heads.
Cynthia



How big it spreads will have to do with how much sun it gets. In a "specimen shrub" full-sun spot, it will be more compact and self-supporting -- but still not a "small" plant. If it's planted in more shade, it will start growing like a climber, reaching taller and wider but not as dense in growth. This explains the wide difference in size estimates posted.
:-)
~Christopher

Since the plant's probably toast anyhow, that's likely a good idea.
I'm assuming that he dug a big hole and filled it with fresh planting material because a rose had previously died there of unknown causes.
It would be interesting to know what your "native soil" is like.
If, for instance, it's heavy adobe clay, you may just have created a non-draining "pot" full of water.
OTOH, we planted a 'Niles Cochet' at the Stagecoach Inn in Newbury Park, back in 1994. We were aware that the surrounding soil was heavy clay (we had to use a gas powered augur to dig some of the holes) AND that all water drained to where that 'Niles Cochet' needed to be.
Conventional wisdom said it was doomed to failure, but we were too tired at the end of that day to care.
That Niles grew up to be a gigantic thing, way, way over my head, with never a hint of disease, and covered with blooms throughout the year.
Go figure.
Jeri

Hi,
I have the same problem with my climbing iceberg, eden and a few other DA which I planted around my back porch. I am in central Fl where the soil is heavy clay with sand on the top. I guess the builder just put the sand to fill in the swamp before building the house. IN the summer we have a lot of rain and my roses just stopped growing and some are dying. After scouring the forum, I decided that it was due to root rot. Sure enough, When I dig up some of the roses, they barely have any root left. I transplanted Eden to a dryer location, amended the soil the same way as previous hole. Eden is on the mend now, putting out new growths and the leaves are green (as opposed to red and puny). The other DAs are just 2 tiny sticks, but I saw some new shoots today. I will be digging up the rest this week and putting hibiscus in their places. I suggest you dig up the iceberg and put it in the pot for now, until it recover while you investigate the source of the problem. Good Luck

Thanks for the link. A fun article. The book that is mentioned, "Elizabeth And Her German Garden", can be read for free at Project Gutenberg.
Here is a link that might be useful: Elizabeth And Her German Garden @ PG

Another very recent research paper on behavior of immune enhancer hydrogen peroxide on plant virus.
http://www.plosone.org/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0076090
If you do try the cut the stem to the ground method, it may be worth while trying a H2O2 spray on the rest of the plant and the neighboring plants. If nothing else it should kill the mites, and possibly it may ward off a weak infection. This is just an educated "maybe", but until the scientists give us more to work with, this type of thinking is all we have.
Here is a link that might be useful: the above link

Lynn, may I suggest Poseidon? It's gorgeous. I got it this spring grafted on multiflora and it's just bloomed and bloomed...but it is at least 6 ft tall. I pulled down some canes and it is busting out the laterals....I may use it as a climber! It's a Kordes rose and has been very healthy. Here is a photo on HMF that looks like mine. Notice the buds?
I purchased Love Song on Dr. Huey...I realize now that I have mf root stock to compare that Huey is not good for my garden. Love Song is anemic. I will try it on mf though because it is a beautiful rose and I love my lavenders!
Poseidon's buds are deep hot pink and then burst into many petals similar to Love Song but more blue/lavender.
I have Purple Tiger own root. It's lousy own root here...
Susan
Here is a link that might be useful: Poseidon on HMF

I purchased the purple tiger today from S & W but could not determine via their site which root stock they use. Dr. Huey works well for my alkaline soil. I purchased 4 Marie Pavie on multi-flora and am guessing that I will have to really amend my soil to reduce the pH. I will have to do the same for Purple tiger if it is on multiflora.
Thank your for the suggestion. Poseidon is very pretty. It reminds me a bit of the way Blue Girl in person when it is in a pot and greenhouse. These roses usually turn gray here. I do not know if it is the heat, soil, or a combination of the two.

You might try calling or e-mailing Burling at Burlington roses to see whether she would root one for you. She can root just about anything and if she has a mother plant it's very possible she'll help you out. I know she rooted a bunch of Annie Laurie McDonnell climbing roses (I have one of them) for interested buyers and had a waiting list for this rose before too long. The same thing could happen with the very desirable Cl. Lady Hillingdon. Judging by the size of the one described by Rogue Valley Nursery, I have the feeling that they have the climbing one too.
Ingrid

I also found I didn't have the patience to convert my old slides. I meant well, but . . .
I used Olympus SLRs for years (film) and I am now using an Olympus E-500. It does a good job for me, but I don't know what I would next move on to.
For a "pocket" camera, I tried a little Nikon Cool-Pix, found it SORELY lacking, and took it back to Costco, whence it came. I replaced it with a Canon PowerShot A2500, which fills that niche nicely. At a push, I can get a decent rose image with it, and it's good for snapshots of the dogs, and events.
Jeri

A rather inexpensive item to improve photos, is one of the "cubes" (photo light tent like to do small product photos) I cut the bottom out of mine so I can set it down and over a vase(etc)
Taking photos early or late in the day will help and on a cloudy/overcast day.
You can also stand back and zoom in to blur the background. (if you have an optical zoom)
A $2 piece of white poster board can be propped up to reflect light back to open up shadows.
And there are a lot of modifiers for flashes that can help, but the best thing to do with a flash is buy a second and use them off the camera to add depth and highlights (Ratio in your cameras flash manual if you have that type of flash)

That IS lovely, bkutz! And Jeri's right, ignore what Amandahugg said about the patent police. That's nonsense. As a matter of fact, you should consider sending photos of the rose to Star Roses. There's a good possibility that THEY might want to purchase the rights to propagate and market this new variety from YOU.
Let's hope that the sport remains stable over time (ie, doesn't readily revert), and that it retains the disease resistance of its sport parent (my guess is that it will).
Congratulations on your find, Bkutz! Keep us posted, okay?




Hi Joyce, here is a link to thread about this subject a bit earlier here on this forum.
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/roses/msg0614040132431.html
In it, the line for Judith Singer, in Tucson, who has bred some heat resistant roses and has suggestions for what has worked for her. The link is below. I hope it helps. Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: Hot-Roses...Judith Singer