22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Andrew:
The tag you found is for Dr. Buck's Prairie Princess. This was one of the most popular breeding parents used by Dr. Buck in his hybridizing program (the other was Carefree Beauty). It is a large-flowered climber with blooms similar to Carefree Beauty.
The tag that is in your photo is one from Chamblee's Rose Nursery in Tyler, Texas. Mark Chamblee provided roses to several places in Louisiana that evaluated roses.
I have the same problem for the newly planted bareroot roses. They are covered in mulch but still some of the canes turned brown about the last frost.
I am a beginner in rose gardening, so please pardon me if this question seems silly. Is all the brown cane dead? Should I prune them off? They are not black yet.
Kim, thank you for sharing you knowledge and experience. Especially the way you explain why certain things work and others don't. I have learned so much from you and others on this forum.
I read some rose guide books and wish certain sections in those books explain more in details the way you do like why doing something in theory sounds good but doesn't actually work. Keep up the great work. We all appreciate your wisdom and experience ;) Thank you for sharing.
You're more than welcome! I hope I can help you avoid some of the "clean-ups" I've had to endure! Some things can work for a while, then go south on you pretty quickly depending upon climate and conditions where you try them. If your season is shorter, harsher, drier or otherwise not perfectly suited to the "companions" you plant, you may not have as severe result as we do where it's much warmer. But, eventually, if the plants are suited at all to their situations, you're bound to encounter at least some of the issues.
I think the "vinca" socks referred to is the annual "Four O'Clocks" rather than the immortal, invasive vinca major or minor we battle here. Jimofshermanoaks used to lament how he'd battled the vinca minor invading his slope from the property above for over 35 years, until he gave in and quite battling it. The bloody stuff outlived him, unfortunately. Kim
Ok thanks guys... I can always count on the people here every year for the best advice, and I am learning more and more. On a brighter note, I just checked on my cuttings that I rooted last year and beneath the leaves and mulch I covered them with , they are green with bright red buds even after this frigid winter in upstate . I'm so excited! Baby steps ;-) I'm a work in progress ...
Thanks for the hope and advice. I'm in Central Denver, 5b, our official last frost date is May 15 but anything after mid-April isn't very hard.
Since the plants are showing signs of life already, would I be okay waiting to transplant until mid-April, when I'll be planting some store-bought perennials or should I go ahead now?
I'll try to pull the shaded one, think I'll let the ones in the crack go for a year, think about where I might best use them all together.
If your soil is workable, thawed and not too soggy, go ahead and move it now. Otherwise you'll need to wait until the soil has improved. I have the same last frost date as you and I plant and move things in April all the time. Although maybe not this year, lol. I still have a good two feet of snow cover everywhere. But if you'd prefer to wait until you plant those perennials you can still move it then instead. Even if it's leafed out some by then it will still be movable as long as you keep it well watered to get it started. Any time in the early spring is usually fine. Just don't wait until it's too hot. That's when it's hardest on them to move them.
But the best news is that they decided to completely enclose the roses with deer fencing so this year should be great. Some of the beds are completely replanted with new roses. The Mother's Day brunch in the rose garden will be beautiful this year. Here's the new deer fence with the azaleas.
Azaleas and flowering trees are at their peak. I went to Nuccio's afterwards and they were so busy. Everybody was in azalea heaven there. Of course I had to have some. I love those guys, they are so fun. True dedication to growing and creating flowers and helping people be better gardeners. If I ever need to get back to feeling why I started making a garden, I go there.
I don't know what others do, but I'm in zone 6 also, and the few times a rose heaved, I just went over and straightened out the bush, applied a slow but even pressure downward as far as it would easily go, and then placed my foot near the base of the rose to apply specific firm but gentle pressure there and kinda walked my way around the bush applying that foot pressure.
I then gave it a good drink, threw some leaves on it, and waited for spring. The rose grew wonderfully that year.
One person's experience. Let's see what others have to say also.
Kate
If it has only heaved a little I think Kate's suggestion is very good. The key is to be gentle because you don't want to compact the soil too much either. For something that's pushed up 6 inches I think you need to re sink it as soon as you can dig the soil. You may not have to dig it out completely but at least enough to get it to settle back down in.
Mulch is probably the best bet to prevent heaving but you can also use soil mounds around the base in the fall. Which is really just a different type of mulch. It will help maintain a more even soil temp. over the winter. Soil mounds are a lot more work but they do have the advantage of replenishing the bed in the spring when you can gently wash the soil off into the bed.
I can't tell yet if I've had any heave or not because there's still at least a foot or two of snow everywhere. I'm hoping that really good snow cover will have prevented a lot of heave.
Jackie- Countess Bertha! Oh man. I love to imagine the old pioneers- either here in the US or in Australia, lovingly tending their roses. I especially love the idea of the roses being brought over by the Chinese immigrants to California. I keep hoping we'll find out more about those roses.
I like all Souvenirs, but Docteur Jamain is my favorite.
I love the literary ones, i.e. Falstaff, Young Lycidas, Wildeve.
How can one improve on "Mutabilis"?
"Chrysler Imperial" -- goes back to childhood -- elegance personified.
Variegata di Bologna -- as different as it sounds.
It's easier to remember the bad names, alas.
Sylvia
Probably means it's a darker colored rose. There is more pigment in both the stems and the blooms and the two traits are linked (as you would expect them to be).
It's completely normal to have variation between varieties. If, however,you have two of the same variety and one has stems that are red-green and the other yellow-green, then the lighter green one is not getting enough sun.
We have what I believe is a climbing rose that stands about 15' high. Most of the blooms occur at the very top. I'm wondering if I should prune it back by about half way so the roses are more eye level? I'm a complete rose novice, so I'm not sure if that would be bad for the plant or not.
In the photo (linked below), the rose is mixed in with a jasmine plant in the front and a huge blackberry bush in the back, behind the fence.
Here is a link that might be useful: 
Hi Ken, here are some pictures from our Rose Day:
Here are the roses for raffle:
Here we are learning how to open roses for show that's Ken in the hat:
I actually won 4 of the same rose, Madame Plantier. I gave 2 away and have two to plant. I also won a swamp rose. And I gave away two roses I wanted to shovel prune. Perfectly fine roses, but now they will be in someone else's garden.
And I had my pruners and loppers sharpened and we hopefully have some new members. All in all a good day.
Bebba - which water district are you in - the MMWD South and Middle Marin one, or the Northern Marin one?
I just checked the water storage in MMWD's reservoirs, and they say that as of yesterday it is at 86% of the average of where it has been historically on this date. MMWD has already announced that they are NOT going to have any mandatory water rationing at all this year.
I don't know about the water district which supplies Novato, but you can certainly look it up. If there is not going to be any rationing, then it is up to you to decide how much you want to water. I would agree with Ingrid that if you don't want to use much water, you should certainly not use chemical fertilizer.
Jackie
Whether or not there are water restrictions, summer temps are likely to be warm, at least like last year, potentially worse. Staying with the organic fertilizers will help relieve the extra stress of high salt conditions. They won't push a lot of softer, sappier "water growth" inorganics will. Yes, you will definitely still get flowers. Perhaps not quite as large, nor perhaps not quite as many, but what you will receive should be more natural for the rose varieties you grow. Ingrid and Jackie are right on. Kim