22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
In the long run, leaf compost is not a light material. It shrinks away as bacteria consume it. If the potting mix is mostly compost, it becomes a very dense mucky material with poor drainage. The guru on the Container Growing Forum doesn't use compost at all in his more durable mixes. It isn't really a substitute for peat or coir unless you will be repotting once a year in all-new mix.
Of course, it's good as an additive to garden soil or as a mulch. If you mix leaf mold into the soil before it is thoroughly made (18-24 months), it will rob nitrogen, so extra N will be needed. Eventually almost the entire bulk of compost will be eaten up, but a small amount of humic acids will remain as a long-term soil conditioner.
Thanks, Kate ...
Mountain weather seems kind of tricky to me determining late winter/early spring. We always get a winter thaw near the end of January/early February, then winter always comes roaring back with more snow and below freezing night temps. Tricks the roses every year.
I've only planted one rose in fall, and it was from a container to the ground and it had a large root mass. The rose came through just fine. However, both day temps and night temps were 20 degrees higher than they are this year.
I've also transplanted a rose in triple digit temps in July and with a lot of TLC brought the rose through the high temps of summer.
My biggest issue is that this rose is not thriving, so I want to give it the best chance I can give it to succeed. Since the cold temps have arrived early, I am slightly uncomfortable transplanting it in fall. Since it is a modern rose and never really goes dormant, I guess it just has to go through one more winter in its current location. I will try to transplant it before the roses start putting on new growth and when my hoses are out, so that I can make sure it is properly watered.
Smiles,
Lyn
PS .... isn't your late winter pretty darn cold ? You may be tougher than I am .... lol.
Personally I've only dealt with Long ago roses and Riobay. Long ago roses of course is my Favorite. Although Riobay bay sells larger plants some own root some grafted. All plants from both have been healthy, both have answered all my questions very quickly and have made suggestions for plants that would do better in my zone as opposed to the ones I had placed a bid on.
The one other comp. I dealt w/ was the cause of a recent debacle. So I can't honestly pass judgement (yet).
Not sure if this helped
âÂÂ¥Lyna
Thank you for the information about using the minus sign to limit searches.
I agree about the patented roses, although the vendor might be reselling a patented rose he or she had bought elsewhere, which is perfectly legal.
I have not bought from Riobay, I will check their offerings next spring.
I think Drop Dead Red is a very good red floribunda, has been disease resistant for me on a uniform bush and repeats quickly. Tom Carruth seems to have some really good roses. Regan's Nursery said it is hardy to Zone 5 and I think it is readily available. Pictured here is its first flush.
Proceedings B is the Royal Society's flagship biological research journal, dedicated to the rapid publication and broad dissemination of high ...
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OK, the end of the Rose searson is approaching...I'm new to active rose cultivation and would like to be reminded how to prepair for winter (I'm even open to chastisement for my previous neglect of my DonJuan's). I have 3 or 4 DonJuan's that are old & almost dormant due to my neglect (I will do better, I promise!)...the beauty of this DonJuan rose is hard to describe if you haven't seen it.... This week I planted a couple of new DonJuan's along with a Peace climber plus 2 Mr Lincoln's, added 4 ArticFlame's, 2 AlmostBlack and one PopeStPaul-II, plus 2-yellow no-name's... I'd like to know if 2 or 3 inches as mulch for protection on the new plantings will protect them 'till spring - I'm in mid-NC (Durham) ?
Michael, I agree that the burlap doesn't keep them warmer. What I think it does do is hold moisture in and protects them from winds that can dry the canes out. As you said, the only way to keep them warmer is to provide a heat source. But in fact you really don't necessarily want to keep them warmer. They need to go dormant and stay dormant. However, keeping them from becoming desiccated is beneficial.
Mike, 2 to 3 inches is a start, and not knowing much about Durham's climate may be enough, but more would be better. I don't winter protect everything in the ground any more but if there is something new or one that I know is tender I pile on the mulch using something to hold it up and on if necessary. I like to try and go at least 6 inches and have done as high as a foot on a rose that I knew was weak. I've used old, broken plastic flower pots with the bottoms cut off and milk jugs, bottoms off and side slit to get it around the rose. Mounded soil works well and stays in place. Experiment with what you have to see what works best. But don't winter protect too soon. You have to be patient and wait for the weather and the roses to tell you when it's the right time. Some years I have done it in October because it was very cold very early. Other years I had to wait into December before the roses finally went dormant. The point of winter protection isn't to keep them warm it's to keep them evenly cold and dormant all winter and early spring through all the ups and downs of the temperatures until it really is spring for good.
Maryl, your Rouge Royale is stunning. I've debated about this rose for years, and you've pretty much convinced me...I must have it. Just where to put it is the question.
Susan, that is an exquisite little bouquet of Teasing Georgia. Lovely. Diane
Thank you so much for your suggestions. I had considered roses with wine tones such as Munstead Wood. I noticed that a volunteer seedling of Brazilian verbain next to the limelights looked really good and that gave me that idea.
The all white roses is a great idea, one that has been stuck in my head now, thanks hoovb!! :-) I think a white rose with a "milky" tone to it might work well. I would think the "snow" white roses would look to bright white next to the more milky hydrangea blossoms.
I am not sure how pink tones would look planted next to the hedge. One of my first thoughts were some of the English roses that have pink and also yellowish tones like Jubilee Celebration... on the other hand, I walked past a flower show where they had deep red roses combined with lime-ish colored filler plants and it looked modern and fresh...
What are your thoughts on something like Lady of Shallott or a warm pink like Princess Alexandra of Kent in groups of several plants each on front that hedge?
I have PAK and I think the color would work well as long as the Princess didn't get too tall. Mine is a year old and is about 5 feet, but in your cooler climate, she might stay shorter. Her color is a bit variable, too--at least here. In the heat, there are more warm tones, and when it's color, she's more of a straight pink, but not a light one. What about the new Austin in a medium pink called Boscobel? (Hope I got that name right). That rose's look has got me enthused about Austin's again. Here's a pic of PAK with less of the yellow tones in her coloring. Diane
Thanks for reviving this thread. The blooms have a soft fragrance, I'd give the strength of the fragrance is a 3 out if 5. The bush I took the cutting from was approx 4'x4'. It had arching canes and appeared robust despite the BS and neglect. (I remember pruning it this past spring out of pity)
M
I snap off the flower ( breaks at vulnerable spot ) and wait for the remaining green stem to die off, usually to the next leaflet. When that is dead I snap that off. Some roses are harder to snap off than others so I nip those. Deadheading is different than pruning.
ok thank you everone for the greet advice.