22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I'm not gonna give up susan. Still hanging in like a stubborn child!
Kate I grew my roses in the ground. They grew well the first year but then they would stunt. Problem turned out to be tree roots (I have huge trees everywhere) and they weren't letting anything flourish, from lemons to papayas to roses. So everything went into pots!
The whitish stuff are dead scale insects. Just gotta wipe em off!
Your roses had a tough time but I think you will be a better gardener after all this is sorted out. Minis root really well off the canes, so I would plant them deeper and see if you can get them to make new roots higher up. I do this with most of my bigger roses anyway. I keep planting them a little deeper in a bigger pot and hopefully, they are making roots just under the soil each time. Trees will stunt roses. You are right about that. Can you make some shade fall on the pots like putting the pot in a larger pot with some bark between or putting some low plants in front to provide some shade? Just in case the hot weather comes back. For right now help your roses to stop dying and then later work on regrowing them into full foliaged plants. I would keep the flowerbuds picked off for now.
Palatine has always promoted Kordes roses, but they're not making any association between Kordes and the rose they're offering as 'Nantucket'. In their online catalog, Palatine identifies Kern as the "breeder". Kern was the Ohio nurseryman who discovered the sport.
Palatine's description of the color blend sure doesn't match the photos or support some of the comments that have been posted here.
I am neutral in this discussion (I like both grafted and own root). I am not trying to be right in this discussion just offering an opinion. My comments are all based on my personal experience only. The plants that (seem to be) fuller (for me) own root are icebergs (pink and white), Frederic Mistral and Livin' Easy. I also have own root plants that I am comparing to grafted plants at the South Coast Botanical Gardens.
My apologies to anyone upset by my comments. They are my personal opinions based on my own personal observation and I am not stating them as facts.
This is an interesting discussion, thanks for sharing your experiences
Lee
That's interesting about your Frederic Mistral, Lee, because I have an enormous, fat, Fred that's grafted on Huey. It's so wide and thick we can't get by on the grass path around it, and have to stomp through a flower bed to avoid smashing into Fred. I think this rose would be thick if it were grafted on petunia roots! Ar least around here. Diane
Thank you so much Jackie! It was you who first suggested a white sport of MCT. I am so happy now, after more than 5 years I could finally name this old HT!.
Moreover, I found another plant of AD just one block away from that old house and I am planning to get some cuttings in a few months. Once I make some plants on its own roots I can send you some cuttings, if you are interested.
Greetings from BA! :)
Mariano
That would be great, except that I do not think it is legal to import plant material without all sorts of licenses, and quaranteens, etc. Also the State of California has even more stringent rules than the US does (to protect the agricultural crops).
Between my neighbor and I, we have 5 plants of MCT which were rooted from a 70-80 year old plant in her garden, so we will just have to keep an eye on all of them, and hope that one of them throws off this sport. Not very likely, but a fun thing to watch for.
Jackie
I have the peach Drift rose and love it. I planted mine mid July I think it was or early August and its been full of blooms ever since. Its also doubled in size since I've planted it. I bought a red drift a few weeks ago and its not in as sunny a spot as the peach so its not looking as good as the peach. The blooms are much smaller on the red than the peach. I mean super tiny but cute. Since I planted the red later than the peach I didn't expect the red to be the same size as the peach. They are both much bigger than they were when I planted them. So far no sign of any disease. No bug damage and no BS. My regular roses are all dealing with BS problems and I do have to spray them. I've never sprayed my drift roses nor have I used any fertilizers and they look a lot healthier than any other rose in my garden.
Next year I plan on buying a few more Drift roses in different colors. I really like the one called popcorn drift. Its white with some yellow and does look like a partially popped kernel of corn.
Thank you for thinking about my problem, Kate; that is so nice! For me,the top version (the one in the midst of the text of your post) of the link did work; the lower one at the bottom ("here is a link that might be useful") did not work... bart
Hi Bart--have you notified technical help (Tamora) that you are having trouble with the links in the box under the message box? Be as specific as you can so they have some idea what they are looking for. Tamora usually answers fairly quickly and politely to at least let you know what is wrong or that they are working on it.
Good luck.
Kate
Thanks everyone for chiming in. I will wait until spring and plant my new roses then. Official reason is that it's safer for the roses, the real reason is that I am not nearly at a point where I can plant them... it's called procrastination...lol
Next spring...:-)
Thanks again folks!!
Many of my plantings are of cuttings. When I expect frost, they are covered with 2 L pop bottles. In late winter, the bottle caps are removed during the day. Some years, I keep the cuttings in pots, also with pop bottles over them, and overwinter them under oak leaves along the foundation of my house to, as Mad Gallica says, plant roses with larger root systems. Both fall planting of the little ones, and keeping them in pots over winter, seems to work equally well. Yellow roses are the trickiest to keep alive.
Steve
This guy has an interesting approach...lol
Here is a link that might be useful: Getting rid of fungus gnats
Anything can be grown in a pot. The pot just has to be the right size, and in the case of zone 5, winter protection is needed. The usual recommendation for roses is a pot at least 20" in diameter for a non-baby rose. If it proves to needs more space than 20", at that point you get a bigger pot.
Leaving them on the cement is usually fine. Since eventually most roses go in fairly large pots, lifting them has its own issues.
They should stay out long enough that they get the idea winter is here. Usually, I end up hauling them in and out at least once since we often get a cold snap around the middle to end of October. There are a couple of nights below freezing, then things warm up again. I pay a lot more attention to when they come out in the spring, but I think the fall routine is something like they go in the garage for temperatures below around 30 (freezing is not the trigger point at all) They go in for good if temperatures are going to be in the low 20 for at least a week.
I have mine on wheeled pot trolleys to make them easier to move around and I just leave them on those to winterize them. I don't like putting mine on the cement because in my opinion the cement pulls moisture from the pots and dries them out too much. They need to have moisture all winter even though they are dormant.
In the past I used to start winterizing around Halloween. Lately, however, it's been warm way past that time and I've had blooms as late as Thanksgiving. For a few years we winterized on Thanksgiving weekend but last year we didn't until the second week of December. Not sure is it's climate change but it has been getting later before they go dormant.
I really can't give you an estimate of when it would be right for your area. You have to play it by ear and watch the weather. You'll be able to tell when they've stopped all signs of growth. Usually that takes at least a couple of hard freezes with temps dipping into the mid 20s. The leaves will start to look dried up and shriveled and if you have any tender new growth it will look frost bitten and wilted.