22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
In addition to gloves, I recommend a broad brimmed hat and sunglasses. I wore the hat but not the sunglasses. See:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/roses/msg1117083317927.html
Here is a link that might be useful: link to my eyelid cancer post
I,m not sure why you care about the differences, but I grow both climbing Cecile Brunner and r banksia lutea (Yellow Lady Banks) right next to each other on the 3 story tall wall of my house. Since you are in zone 9, you should be able to grow both of them too.
Your bush does not look like a banksia rose to me - it certainly could be an old climbing Cecile Brunner. Have you seen the blooms? Are the small and light pink and have the form of tiny hybrid tea blossoms?
See the picture below - both of the roses on my house are climbers, and both can be trained (they don't have to get this big - I encourage the large size, because I love huge roses). In the picture most of what you see is Cl Cecile Brunner (pink blooms) - the yellow blooms on the left are from the edge of the huge yellow banksia rose. They both get the same height on our house (to the roof). They are both (only one plant) about 3 1/2 stories high and 15 or more feet wide.
The main other differences I can think of are:
1) the banksia is definitely once blooming, and starts blooming earlier (ours is coming into bloom right now). The CB usually blooms after the banksia has finished, which makes them great companions (this pic was taken because for some weather reason one year they were both blooming at the same time). The CB has scattered repeat all year, and a flush of bloom (way less than Spring) in the Fall.
2) the banksia is COMPLETELY, truly, thornless. The CB has plenty of thorns.
3) The banksia canes are much more flexible and longer than the CB canes.
Both can be pruned as much or little as you like. We only prune ours to keep the windows of the house clear, and to take off some weight in the Fall so they don't get torn off the house in Winter storms.
If I had your old CB I would probably cut off the top mess, clean the base, weed all around it, feed it, mulch it, and wait for it to put out more new canes, which could then be trained horizontally along the fence.
Jackie
Jackie, I really appreciate your thoughts! This is a new rose bush to me and I'd love to take a couple years and get it into shape.
I definitely have one CB with pale pink flowers that is doing well. This one has LOTS of thorns, so I guess it's not a Lady Banks. But it's in such poor shape I've only seen a couple flowers in the year I've lived here. They seemed mostly white to me, with maybe on a slight hint of pink.
Your home and roses are just beautiful!
The rose does indeed exist. You will only know whether or not your rose is the correct rose when it blooms. Was it a bagged rose from a big box store or a potted one from a nursery? The bagged roses have a high rate of being mislabeled. The nurseries are better but even they occasionally get a mislabeled one from their suppliers.
Transplanting shouldn't matter unless you cut all the canes off when you did it. It's the age of the canes that's important. A 4 year old cane could begin to get woody/barky covered. I turned and brightened up the photo to see it better and this looks like bark not canker to me.
You can see what's left of the multiflora. It's the big mass in the middle going straight down. Two roots fused into one and then began to rot away as the own roots took over. If own roots don't grow, the plant slowly fades away. I try to improve the soil to give the multiflora roots a chance until new own roots grow but sooner or later, my alkaline water and the breakdown of the redwood and peat in the hole will be the end of any multiflora root the rose has. It lasts longer in a pot than in the ground.
Thank you, Cynthia! I've been transferring those which have started rooting in the foam cups into the bands to conserve room. It appears to be working just fine. Being able to nearly double the number per flat makes a HUGE difference when space is limited. I encountered something rather unusual yesterday. I'd combined six varieties in the same wrap. Three of them callused beautifully. Three just sat there and have done nothing. All were cut from plants in the same place in the garden and all are varieties which have successfully rooted previously, though not necessarily through wrapping. Evidently these three possibly didn't contain the necessary nutrient levels or required different temperature or moisture levels. I rewet the paper, leaving it damper and wrapped them so sit for another week or so to see what happens. Thanks! Kim
Hmm, that is a puzzle. Sounds like it's fortunate that those 3 slacker cuttings didn't mold or otherwise protest at the process so that you can try Plan B. It's infinitely reassuring to hear experts like you have to take several tries at this process, as I'm sure I'll have many questions like that whenever I get enough time to try cuttings. Regardless, it's just one more testament to the individual variability of roses, even under the same conditions.
Roses - often puzzling, but never boring!
Cynthia
Don't know if this would work or not as I'm not bothered by deer even though we have a lot of them just a mile North of us.
How about getting an electric fence unit like the ones they use to keep cattle inside the fences. Using insulated wire just run it around to each rose bush. Maybe make a few 'trunk' lines that you tap off from to reach the bushes. You would only need a single strand of wire from the trunk line to the plant. Strip off about 2 inches of the insulation at the end of the wire, fold it back onto itself and twist it together. That way there would be no sharp ends. Then mount it such that it does not hit the plant but would hit the deer when it reaches in to eat the flowers. A piece of bamboo with the wire attached should work.
Put the whole thing on a timer so it only comes on when the deer are out.
Maybe instead of putting it among the bushes you could place them down the walking paths. As the deers walked by it would push the stick out of the way until it came to the end, then Zap, deer is out of thereâ¦.. After about the 3rd of 4th one they run into they will think twice about coming back.
Of course you should first check to see if our Socialist government allows that.
Fencing may be the single most effective deer deterrent. The problem is that it can be unsightly and impractical to install. We have used both fencing and Deer Repellent Packs to keep deer away from our landscaping and flowers. The Packs are good for 90 days and can simply be hung right on the plants you want to protect.
Here is a link that might be useful: Easy Deer Repellent
I don't take anything off unless it's broken or damaged in some way. If the canes are green to the tips I leave the already healed cuts alone. Same thing with the roots. Only broken or damaged ones are taken off before planting. I soak the entire plant, canes and all, before planting.
I've never had to do that until I bought from a certain well known overpriced and overmarketed establishment in the UK. The state of the plants I was sent (in 3 different orders) was such that it necessitated me doing so. For some plants this meant that almost half of the cane lengths of what where far from overgrown plants had to go...
Nik
This post was edited by nikthegreek on Mon, Feb 24, 14 at 2:18
Interesting post. I grew Tuscan Sun when it was first introduced. I loved how the colors were pretty from the bud stage to the fully open stage even if they changed along the way. Mine was own root (which is how it was offered when first introduced). Unfortunately it seemed to grow "backwards". I had it for about 4 years and by the 4th it was down for the count. It had the best of everything so the only thing I could attribute it's diminshing vigor to was our zone 7 winters (it is an orange after all and they are usually susceptible to cold snaps). I have never forgotten it though, and when I saw it offered grafted on Dr. Huey this year I was all excited. Will certainly be looking around for it at our local rose nurseries. I'm hoping that grafted will do better for my garden. Very nice rose. Good as a cut flower too.....Maryl
I got Lila Vidri as Leila Verde back in the day from Arena. I have two original grafted ones from Arena, and have made many own-root cuttings of it over the years, most of which I've given away to friends. It roots pretty easily, and does very well as an own-root plant. Truly spectacular fragrance (I specialize in fragrant roses), with excellent form that lasts well. Great color too. Sort of a FL/HT blend. I am always amazed at why this rose isn't more available from our own-root nurseries. Dot roses may be 30 minute roses in general, but Lila/Leila isn't one of them. Worth finding.
Yes you can plant them outside. Some of them make pretty good garden plants, and some are not. It's the luck of the draw. Roses definitely need to be outside--they are poor house plants.
However, WHEN you can plant them outside depends on your climate. They've been babied in a warm green house before you got them. Putting them outside in freezing temperatures right now is not going to work. How cold is it outside where you are? What growing zone are you in? That matters.
Hi Hoovb,
I am in south Florida, it was quite warm here, we didn't have much of a winter, it has been in the 80's.
I'm so glad they can be planted outside, I will have to get soil and compost again, mostly sand around here.
Not sure how big they get or how far apart to plant them, maybe two feet apart?
Thank you for your reply!
Lisa
Is the gray a substance on the top of the wood or is the bark of the wood a gray color? It it's something on the top it could be mildew, although I don't know if your weather conditions are good for that right now. If it's the bark that's gray it's just an older cane. As canes age they'll get a darker woody/ barky color, sometimes gray , sometimes brown, it depends on the rose. If it's at the top of the can it could be some die back. Clip the tip of the cane and check the pith inside for whiteness.
Something else: your Sonia has an assortment of prickles of different sizes.
All the RRD infected roses I've seen (including some rugosas) have masses of prickles of the same size as one of their RRD symptoms. And further complicating things, not all RRD infected roses are "hyper thorny"
RRD thorns do harden up eventually, but often they stand out so oddly that we grasp them physically before we grasp the meaning behind/within them.
Thank you so much for the additional information. Now I am familiar with the quantity and the lack of size variations, I have a better gauge for assessing. Thank you again!