21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I have a rose bed which has a border of at least 2 feet wide walkway, then my lawn (bermuda) the Bermuda grass can grow underneath the 2 foot walkway and invade the rose bed. I don't think stone edging will keep it out. I just edge any beds with a gas edger attachment and pull out any stray grass that gets in my beds. Usually after a rain, they are easy to pull out.



Roses are more vulnerable to PM when their foliage isn't getting enough water from their roots, which often happens on young or transplanted roses. Keep the plant well watered though not drowning and as it settles in it may be more resistant, if it is not a cultivar prone to PM. Some are. You can spray off the foliage with water every morning, provided it is sunny/warm enough to dry in a few hours, to wash off spores. You could spray with a fungicide if you are really concerned.
PM spores float through the air for miles and miles, there isn't anything you can do about that except keep your plants as strong and healthy as possible, so their natural resistance can best protect them.

As hoov said the PM is just out there and only needs the right conditions to show up. Often times greenhouses have those conditions so it will show up there. Transplanting a rose can stress it and make it more susceptible too. You've planted it now in a good location so chances are it will clear up on it's own.



Thanks guys. I never would have thought just taking them outside would have made such a difference! They gt sun all day at their old spot , yet they were sickly. Like Seil said must be the lack of humidity.
Now I cant wait for the red gorgeous blooms. Will update a pic when they start.

OGRs (or any rose) can have better vase life if cut at the right time. If cut too late, then yes, they will have a short vase life. Most do best when just starting to open, sepals down, first row of petals unfurled. I have kept Marchesa Boccella for 5 days when cut at the right time (I exhibit from time to time).

OGRs (or any rose) can have better vase life if cut at the right time. If cut too late, then yes, they will have a short vase life. Most do best when just starting to open, sepals down, first row of petals unfurled. I have kept Marchesa Boccella for 5 days when cut at the right time (I exhibit from time to time).


The Turface didnâÂÂt arrive and my raised bed is scheduled to be
Completed today
My new raised bed will contain:
34 cu ft of fill soil (mineral)
4 cu ft of top soil (containing compost)
3 cu ft of EB Stone rose mix
3 cu ft of NavletâÂÂs compost
1.5 cu ft of EB StonâÂÂes aged steer manure
This will be sitting over 8 inches of amended soil which in turn
will be over dark clay.
What do you think?
Thanks for your help,
andrea

Therese Bugnet should thrive for you.
Also received your email. I think you may have confused Hortico with Pickering Nurseries. Hortico is famous for shipping mislabelled plants, not Pickering. Palatine is still the best choice if they have a plant you want. The quality of their bare root roses is outstanding.

Corn Hill is a good nursery in northern New Brunswick. I haven't ordered from them personally because they aren't really setup to ship across the border, but Canadians who have dealt with them have been pleased.
I'd also recommend the botanical garden in Annapolis Royal if you haven't been there.
Here is a link that might be useful: Corn Hill


Yes, the fineness of the spots sounds like symptoms of mild damage from chlorothalonil fungicide (Daconil), especially on 'Double Delight' and a few other varieties.
bebba1, if you are going to ask questions here, it would really help to say what region of the country you live in. This was an issue in your other thread last week as well.

There are a number of products with Ortho Rose Pride in the name. One is labeled for mites.
"Ortho RosePride Insectm Disease & Mite Control gives systemic protection against aphids, thrips, whiteflies, mites and more for up to 2 weeks. This product can be used on roses, flowers, and ornamental shrubs"
I do not know if it works on this mite.

I won't presume to advise that in every climate, soil and situation it makes little difference. I will state that in my zones 9 and 10 gardens, the main difference fresh over composted made was temporary chlorosis and some vegetative centers. Both of which rather quickly dissipated. I watered copiously prior to applying the manure. I kept it just under the drip zone (away from the shanks, trunks and crowns of the plants) and over the rest of the entire surface of the beds. I watered copiously afterwards. The drainage was good in most of that garden, with a few spots where the soil was a bit too "loving". With that heat, two to three inches of horse manure, kept regularly moist with overhead, oscillating sprinklers, became a thin layer of earthworm castings like material in three months. There were spots I had to make the original planting holes with a large power auger. After keeping it mulched with horse manure for a summer, I could sink my shovel in to the handle digging holes. Soil which initially resisted water (it rolled right off) became easy to water. It just soaked right in.
I witnessed others attempting to duplicate those efforts along the coast where the temps were many degrees lower and the humidity many percentage points higher. Kept regularly wet, it didn't "digest" as it did in the valley heat. I had no mushrooms or other fungal fruiting bodies. In the "Perma Fog", there were many mushrooms and the manure took months longer to disappear. A much thinner layer performed much better in those conditions. Kim

A frosting of well rotted manure is in my clean up, prune routine. If it is too thick it forms a crust that may keep water and food away from the rose. I try to form a berm so spring rain will wash it into the drip line. It keeps weeds down. Eventually , when broken down, I cover it with decorative bark chips. My roses love this. I do not have a huge BS problem. Next year I plan to mix Dr. earth in the manure application. This sounds so yummy. C :



It seems to take DJ a while to get established. I'm with Ann--give it time. Do be careful of watering, tho. Clay can have drainage problems. Another thig to check is that there are no air pockets. Stick a couple of fingers in deep. The soil should be firm. Often, when bareroots get planted by nurseries, the soil is too loose. When it settles, it leaves air pockets.
Don't give up. Don Juan is a vigorous climber that produces an abundance of deep red roses. I grow two in full sun in Las Vegas. These plants receive sun from the a.m. Until about 4 p.m. .. It has been over 100 degrees for two weeks or more and the 90s before that. My first blooms were in early April and the bushes have not been absent roses since then. Anything that does well in this heat... Should survive moderate temperatures in other places barring winter damage....Good Luck! I hope you get to the bottom of it.