22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I put a post up in your earlier thread; not sure if you saw it or not.
Hi Busybee - I know its a bit late to chime in, but I hadn't noticed the thread before this.
I'm a beginner rose grower, and in Melbourne too. I wouldn't be worried about your roses not blooming this early. If you bought yours in July, i am assuming they were bareroots? that is, pretty much just sticks, and not many leaves? They will need some time to grow and develop roots, then to leaf out a bit before flowering. I bought quite a few myself, and I am only just getting a few buds now.
You could take a look at the Victorian Rose society website
http://www.rosesocietyvic.org.au/
they have a list of roses they recommend (including floribundas), and a month by month calendar of what you should do to look after them. Although so far I have been doing without all the spraying they advise....
As to Mirage, I dont grow it, yet..I was looking at it to buy myself, but there were other roses i wanted more..as far as I can see its pretty new, was only introduced last year. its a Kordes rose, they have a reputation for being pretty healthy.
If these are winter-tender roses that will be pruned severely in spring, that would get rid of the mildew on those plants. If they are hardy roses, they will carry mildew over the winter in latent growth buds on the canes to quickly infect new growth in spring, weather permitting. On hardy roses I would control the mildew now. A systemic fungicide would be most effective in preventing carryover, but various "organic" fixes will knock the visible mildew back and prevent the spread of fall mildew.
I tried Deer Scram around my peaches and nectarines. Absolute waste of money there. I use electric fences around the roses and have had no problems with deer when I keep them on regularly. In years past when they were not on regularly I had some problems with them getting in somehow. I think they have to be trained from early spring.
Oh phooey. That Deer Scram is sooo expensive ($30 for six pounds). I'd rather buy roses. Where we're situated, I don't think an electric fence would work or be allowed. We're out in the hills, but I have close neighbors just on the sides of us. The backyard is wide open to an undeveloped draw where the deer enter the yard. In front, we're open to undeveloped hills, but deer don't use this entrance as much. Diane
Jaxondel, my propagating method is pretty standard and similar to what you often read here. I will take a stem, cut off the flower, and leave two sets of leaves on the stem. Then I make several vertical slits through the lower part of the stem with a razor blade. I have found that stabbing completely through the stem gives the best results.
I then dip the stems in powdered rooting hormone and then place them in soil that I have already poked holes in (so that the rooting hormone doesn't rub off). I seal this in a clear plastic bag and wait a few weeks.
I can usually tell if they are going to survive after about ten days by looking at the leaves. The ones that aren't going to make it usually drop their leaves after they turn yellow. The ones that do make it retain their original ones. I take them out of the bag after they have developed roots (I always plant them in clear cups so I can determine this)...
As far as finding out the name, for some reason Costco won't reveal the exact source of their roses. Also, there are so many different ones that look like the ones I grow that it would be hard to describe it to a florist anyway:)
Maude
Dear Pat, Thank you so much for your photos, I particularly LOVE the last one, that's exactly the kind of blooms I'm looking for, it makes my spine itch just looking at them :-p
As it happens, today I just started my first rose propagation experiment, Maude's notes made me realize the mistakes I made: a. I didn't cut through the stems, merely scraping off the surface layer and making shallow slits as I thought what matters is the green layer gets exposed; b. I used a liquid hormone, and after soaking the stems, I put them in a vase with water in it, which probably means the hormone got washed off before the next step....oh well, didn't have high hopes for it anyways, just for curiosity's sake.
I've turned onto the Renaissance series at the moment...was checking them out on Hortico's site just now. Are all the Renaissance varieties good cutters like you described, Campanula?? (I know Clair is a good cutter, I've read that sophia and julia are also good, HMF doesn't say Bonita is good for cutting, but again I no longer completely trust HMF on this topic)
I think size and age of the plant will solve a lot of your problems. Golden Celebration was very floppy the first couple of years for me, and now, though it sends out candelabra this time of year, does not flop at all. On the other hand, Young Lycidas, a year old, is a flopmeister, determined to bloom on the ends of its long thin canes. I have it tied up inside a circle of stakes, and it still lost some cane in the last windstorm. YL doesn't worry me because I've seen this happen a lot, and there has always been improvement with the flopsters. The shrubs that bother me most are like Evelyn with stiff, brittle canes that snap off at the base--causing loss of lots of basals, in spite of all the tying in the world. Princess Alexandra of Kent, also only a year old, is vastly improved in just a year. It's still putting out lots of candelabra, but they are thicker and more upright already. Diane
You can edit your own posts.
With some exceptions, own-root implies small band or one-gallon potted plants that will take longer to mature. Bare-root implies two-year-old grafted plants. These same bare-roots are used to produce the "canned" or potted roses at the garden center. So potted roses can be either small own roots by mail order or larger grafted plants at the garden center.
There is no reason to avoid bare-roots. They are easy and reliable if you order them for planting in early spring, ideally early to mid March in eastern 7a, and not later than mid-April. These plants have been in cold storage since November.
Some roses, especially some hybrid teas, are slow to develop on their own roots and are better grafted. Some roses, not including typical modern roses, sucker heavily on their own roots and are better grafted. With tender varieties on graft, you have to protect the graft from freezing. But in most cases it doesn't matter. Your grafted roses may develop their own roots.
The particular value of garden center potted roses is that you can plant them any time after mid April in 7a. (You don't want to expose the new growth to freezes of around 28 degrees.) Boutique roses in small pots are too little for late summer or fall planting. Stored bare roots start to go bad in late May or thereabouts.
Michaelg
Guess (know) I'll be checking out mail order sources using HelpMeFind.com after finishing my library books re roses. You and others have given me what I need to try
bare root (although I'll order some potted varities as well to soften the blow should ... well, you can guess by now).
Thanks to you and everyone for your direction, support, encouragement and just plain goodwill!
gary
I like Palatine and Pickering for roses such as borderline hardy HTs which need to be grafted in my climate.
For OGRs and climbing roses, I like Northland Rosarium and High Country Roses. Both send out large, healthy and vigorous plants. No need to baby these plants along. Both are located in cold climate areas, Spokane, WA, and Denver CO, respectively, so your plants arrive already acclimatized to cold zone conditions.
Seil, the interior pruning on Carding Mill is still evident. They removed a number of canes from the middle of the plant. What is left is a beautiful shape with a clear interior.
I have seen a video from The San Jose Municipal Rose Garden on pruning. And the woman who did the pruning shows how to prune to keep the interior clear of too many canes. She also shows how to prune the bush to make it shaped, as she called it, like a vase. My CM is free of interior 'clutter' and is shaped beautifully.
The other two English types are (or were) quite tangled.
The David Austin directly from David Austin, as you said, is much better cared for.
Thanks for your input,
andrea
I have noticed the yellowing of the interior leaves with lots of BS on my dense healthy roses. What I interpreted as lush foliage is actually affecting the plant by decreasing air circulation. I will prune a little differently next spring and see if it makes a difference. These roses are such picky b$&tches.
Camp,
A friend in Texas had an absolutely gorgeous one, for about four years. I saw it at its peak performance, over 4'x5', thick, healthy, absolutely covered in bloom the Spring of 2009. Stunning (and I hate that word). I was back to visit this year, and it was GONE. In three years it had grown backward and failed to sprout this year. Of course they've had horrible drought, and record heat; but he irrigates and out of 100 roses, this and two others are all he's lost. It's a prima donna, evidently.
John
Thanks Beth! I'm going for mini/minifloras!
For those not familiar with Wiconsin Roses,Steve Singer (great guy) sells newly budded plants on R. multiflora rootstock. He sends detailed instructions on how to handle the plants, there is a bit of work to be done, but not difficult. You get to see how a plant goes from just budded to mature in 2 - 3 years. Great company, mostly HTs and minis, but a couple of unique floribundas.
Beth -- Here's a bit of unsolicited advice re. 'Remembering Michael': If you generally plant your HTs in the garden, plan to grow this one in a container for a full season or two, and coddle it a bit with extra TLC. The mauve blooms are well-formed and nicely fragrant, but very few and far between. I'm hoping that it simply takes a while to hit its stride. My single plant is in its 3rd season.