22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
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With some exceptions, own-root implies small band or one-gallon potted plants that will take longer to mature. Bare-root implies two-year-old grafted plants. These same bare-roots are used to produce the "canned" or potted roses at the garden center. So potted roses can be either small own roots by mail order or larger grafted plants at the garden center.
There is no reason to avoid bare-roots. They are easy and reliable if you order them for planting in early spring, ideally early to mid March in eastern 7a, and not later than mid-April. These plants have been in cold storage since November.
Some roses, especially some hybrid teas, are slow to develop on their own roots and are better grafted. Some roses, not including typical modern roses, sucker heavily on their own roots and are better grafted. With tender varieties on graft, you have to protect the graft from freezing. But in most cases it doesn't matter. Your grafted roses may develop their own roots.
The particular value of garden center potted roses is that you can plant them any time after mid April in 7a. (You don't want to expose the new growth to freezes of around 28 degrees.) Boutique roses in small pots are too little for late summer or fall planting. Stored bare roots start to go bad in late May or thereabouts.
Michaelg
Guess (know) I'll be checking out mail order sources using HelpMeFind.com after finishing my library books re roses. You and others have given me what I need to try
bare root (although I'll order some potted varities as well to soften the blow should ... well, you can guess by now).
Thanks to you and everyone for your direction, support, encouragement and just plain goodwill!
gary
I like Palatine and Pickering for roses such as borderline hardy HTs which need to be grafted in my climate.
For OGRs and climbing roses, I like Northland Rosarium and High Country Roses. Both send out large, healthy and vigorous plants. No need to baby these plants along. Both are located in cold climate areas, Spokane, WA, and Denver CO, respectively, so your plants arrive already acclimatized to cold zone conditions.
Seil, the interior pruning on Carding Mill is still evident. They removed a number of canes from the middle of the plant. What is left is a beautiful shape with a clear interior.
I have seen a video from The San Jose Municipal Rose Garden on pruning. And the woman who did the pruning shows how to prune to keep the interior clear of too many canes. She also shows how to prune the bush to make it shaped, as she called it, like a vase. My CM is free of interior 'clutter' and is shaped beautifully.
The other two English types are (or were) quite tangled.
The David Austin directly from David Austin, as you said, is much better cared for.
Thanks for your input,
andrea
I have noticed the yellowing of the interior leaves with lots of BS on my dense healthy roses. What I interpreted as lush foliage is actually affecting the plant by decreasing air circulation. I will prune a little differently next spring and see if it makes a difference. These roses are such picky b$&tches.
Camp,
A friend in Texas had an absolutely gorgeous one, for about four years. I saw it at its peak performance, over 4'x5', thick, healthy, absolutely covered in bloom the Spring of 2009. Stunning (and I hate that word). I was back to visit this year, and it was GONE. In three years it had grown backward and failed to sprout this year. Of course they've had horrible drought, and record heat; but he irrigates and out of 100 roses, this and two others are all he's lost. It's a prima donna, evidently.
John
What Michael said unless you're talking about pruning them to move them. If they are very large roses it may be a good idea to prune them back a little to move them. No matter how careful you are you will probably lose some of the feeder roots when you dig them up. Cutting them back some will place less stress on the rose to supply nutrients to a big bush when it has fewer roots to do it with. Climbers in particular may need to be pruned down since those canes are so long. A smaller root ball will have a tough time getting water and nutrients all the way out to the ends.
But, I do agree with Michael that fall is not the time to prune roses if you are in a cold climate. Is there any way this move can be put off until early spring? In the early spring before they leaf out you can prune them back and move them with little problem. They'll wake up in their new spots and just begin to grow from there.
What seil said.
But to answer question 2, if you prune HTs low, you will have green leaves nearly to the ground, but you will have a small plant in May-June and thus fewer blooms. It may catch up in late summer. If you prune HTs high, you'll have mostly bare legs up to that level, but a bigger plant and better first flush. Very low is 8", or to the ground if there is severe winter damage. Very high is 36"-40".
Yes, this is the marketing group that brought us the Dream Roses. Their most successful rose promotion was Flower Carpet but that's losing steam now. They have to find a new nitch to stay in roses. They also have promoted other successes and failures. Tropicana canna being one of the better.
At this point, the owners of the J&P name are in fast & furious mode, bent on cashing-in to the max on the last, tattered vestiges of what once was a premium brand.
It's past time for all of us to recognize (and to inform others) that Jackson & Perkins is no longer a reputable source for roses.
Karolina11: ". . . (W)hy would their experts advise differently"?, you asked. There are no experts of the kind you have in mind left at J&P.
If you are having soil problems, try putting in a raised bed with good soil. Your ph needs to be 6.3-6.5. IF you can't get it there you will have discolored leaves. There are ph charts you can see that shows you what nutrients get locked up at what ph level.
I have a small no spray garden,so I am very selective about what roses I plant as I live in the southeastern mountains. After much research, I planted a big three gallon Cinco De Mayo from a local nursery, knowing full well it black spots in some southeastern gardens and not in others. I also know the first year is not a true measure of the success of a rose in my area, but I'm happy to say the first year has been a great success. It has bloomed literally non stop, has some black spot, but everyone else does, too. The leaves are still full and healthy this late in the season. I love the color and the fragrance; she's a big flouncy party girl, always swirling and dancing in the wind.
Reading this reference on HMF,
"Monographie du Genre RosierEDIT
Book (1824) Page(s) 155.
R. sulfurea Var. minor. Pourpre jaune. This variety does not bloom unless grafted, and that rarely; it is double the former [R. sulpfurea]." R. Hemisphaerica is a synonym for sufphueera. Perhaps what you're looking for might be might be Sulpheraea flore plena? Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: R. Hemisphaerica flore plena
Climbing Royal America is back in commerce!
I hope it shows up in a box near me.
I don't know how much of the patent differential goes to Kordes and how much is Certified's profit, Gean. Kim