22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
'Pretty Jessica' is doing very well in my garden even though it is planted in a fairly difficult spot (palm root competition and too much shade). Mannerly size, lovely globular, wonderfully fragrant blooms.
'The Prince' is getting a little bit of powdery mildew here from time to time, but it is forgiven because of its absolutely gorgeous, velvety, dark crimson, very fragrant blooms. One of the smaller Austins.
My absolute favorite though is 'Charles Darwin'. I grow two in big containers and they are incredible floriferous. I love the always changing yellow color of the blooms (from mustard yellow, to a very pale one, to a yellow with a slightly apricot touch and anything in between). My bushes are completely healthy. They show signs that they might have outgrown their containers. My guess is once in the ground, they will become really big roses.
'Heritage', only in the ground for one year, but I am not too impressed so far. The color of the rose is mostly a pale apricot-pink here (not the cool light, pale pink, that I had hoped for), which I don't like so much. The blooms shatter very fast and the bush gets some powdery mildew.
'Mary Rose', one of the earliest roses to bloom in my garden. I love the bloom form. My rose is growing in a big container and gets some mildew from time to time.
All my roses are grown own-roots.
Good idea for a threat. I love to compare notes on how the Austins are doing in CA!
Christina
I am right by the bay and we have cool summers (temperatures rarely get into the 70s). My garden is no-spray. Powdery mildew is a menace here and anthracnose and cercospora trouble the roses that are prone to "spotting".
Belle Story - grafted. 10+ years. Spring and fall flushes with smattering of blooms in between. Good health but is prone to cercospora spots in summer. It has earned its place in my small suburban garden because of its enchanting and breath-taking blooms. Great fragrance, as well.
Molineux - I have 2. Own root (4th year) and grafted (10+ years). Always in bloom. Good health. My workhorses. Can be pruned to stay 4-5 feet.
Geoff Hamilton - own root; 5th year. Gorgeous blooms but a once-bloomer in my garden. I have seen it grown grafted in a warmer summer area where it has 3 big flushes.
Crown Princess Margareta - own root in its 4th year. Good spring flush and then all she wants to do is throw out long thin thorny (she has drawn blood) canes; I have almost no rebloom from her. I am tired of constantly hacking her back in attempts to control her exuberant growth. A few miles inland, a CPM, grafed and grown as a shrub, is almost constantly in bloom. CPM will be gone from my garden after this spring.
Mary Rose - own root; 4th year. So far, she is staying small. Great fragrance, good rebloom and healthy plant. A favorite.
Abraham Darby - own root, 4th year. I am trying to grow it as a small climber. It is generous of bloom and has decent health. The blooms leave something to be desired (mine don't always look like the pics on HMF) and I would replace it with a better rose but for its fragrance...
Young Lycidas - grafted, 4th year. Good repeat and blooms are very fragrant. Color is lovely - magenta-purple with a silvery sheen. Foliage is, well, weird. Crinkley and appears diseased but is not. Needs staking as the canes are pencil-thin and can't hold the heavy blooms.
Strawberry Hill - grafted; 3rd year. Gorgeous, fragrant blooms in shades of pink, peach and lilac depending on the weather. Generous of bloom. Prone to mildew and rust in my garden. (I hadn't seen rust in my garden before). Nasty, wicked thorns that snag. I grow it as a small climber and I am hoping it becomes more disease resistant with age as its foliage when not mildewed or looking like cheetos is absolutely lovely.
The Wedgwood Rose - Grafted; 3rd year. This rose has me baffled. I get 4 flushes but each flush has only 3-4 blooms. The size of blooms have ranged from the size of a quarter to 4 inches. Completely disease-free....of course.
The following were added to my garden in March last year, so too early for me to cast judgement but I am adding my observations on health and bloom. All are grafted.
Princess Anne - lovely shade of magenta-pink. Much admired by visitors. I can't detect a fragrance but most others say it is strong and very pleasant. Good-looking shrub. Canes are covered in thorns but they are not vicious. Stopped blooming after October.
Wollerton Old Hall - lovely blooms. Great fragrance. Bloomed well into December. Is my favorite of the new four.
Lady Emma Hamilton - would grow it for the fragrance alone. Plant appears to be healthy and repeat seems to be very good. I think you will enjoy having her, FJ.
Princess Alexandra of Kent - big blooms with a color range of pink and coral. Fragrance is iffy but, when there, it is pleasant. Has been constantly in bloom and is blooming now. Unfortunately, prone to powdery mildew. It's in an east facing bed and I will be moving it to a south-facing one to see if I can keep the PM in check. Also, the blooms have a tendency to ball so I am hoping the south side will help in that regard as well. (I try not to get roses with a high petal could but I guess I wasn't paying attention when I ordered this one.) FJ - I think getting her own root is probably a good idea. Mine is already 7 feet wide.
Jo
Wollerton Old Hall
Is this an indoor space? Or is this the garage. I am confused because of the fridge. This area looks perfect for that system. I also like kitty's suggestions.
I am not gifted in the storage department. Every piece I have is covered with stuff, and my garage looks like a thermonuclear event took place.
I am envious of people who have that knack for making storage areas look cool and functional. That is not me. But the orange is very cheerful,
Andrea, when I run across a spam post, I copy the name of the thread and which forum it's on, then I contact GW at the link at the bottom of the pages (Contact Us) and provide them the information. They can't see everything nor be everywhere, but WE can help them cover all bases. Most often, once I've emailed them the information, the thread disappears. Kim
Since your in Australia Curdle's idea make sense. A lot of the roses we suggest here might not be available in Oz, lol! On the other hand you guys have some wonderful roses we can't get here so may not even know about. If you can't get to the rose garden see if you can find a rose society somewhere near you. I'm sure they'd be glad to help!
Kate, I don't have a bed for the newer ones yet. I will need another raised bed built. Can't do that myself. My handyman and gardener will do that next month.
Thanks all for your good info. I DID notice that the cane and roots looked very large. Guess I should have figured out that it wasn't a 'baby'.
Well, I put it in a pot (and did as Kim suggested). And I am sure that it will be great.
Haven't looked at it since the first, my boy pup cut his rear leg and thigh yesterday and had to be operated on for 2 hours. He is at home, whimpering and being fed home made chicken soup. God I hate it when my pups get sick or hurt. Well, I better stop and try to take him outside for a potty break. He's only 35 pounds, but for an 'older lady', that's a lot to carry up and down steps.
Thanks again all,
andrea
Wirosarian,
I do have a 30' pecan tree well away from them. However, it IS closer to the bushes on the east than the west, but can't imagine the roots of this old tree are at the same depth of the roses. Thanks for your response! This is the first time I've posted anything on this forum and love the depth of knowledge exhibited.
Hi,
Tree roots are one possibility, ground inclination is another as it would affect the water they receive, prevailing wind is a third factor as the roses growing upwind will tend to suffer more damage, proximity to hardscape is a fourth one which can go either way depending on your climate and non uniform soil or existence of a burried rock or burried concrete block a fifth. If I think hard I'm sure I can come up with more potential factors. Of course I left out the most important factor which is the sun they receive since I assume from your post they receive equal amounts.
Nik
Kim, I was thinking about your post while at work. Do you think the mulch would cause anaerobic problems below the soil line as it breaks down? I'm thinking that is what you meant by "souring". I was thinking that the mulch would act somewhat like a modified hugelkulture system. Before I laid down all the mulch in the beds, I left quite a few branches and bits -- which didn't get used for the log edging -- on the ground and smothered them. I was thinking that would be a good thing over time as they broke down -- as long as I kept adding organic nitrogen. I'm planning on sprinkling blood meal over the mulch in early Spring, followed by a layer of composted manure (a mixture of horse, cow, sheep, goat and pig, sold by my local university agriculture lab for half the price of the Bovung from Home Depot). Our heavy Spring rains would, presumably, rinse this fine particulate matter through the crevices of the mulch. I was thinking that doing this every Spring would allow the wood to decay without robbing nitrogen from the soil. Is this not a good plan?
:-)
~Christopher
Closer to the surface, the large wood shards shouldn't be an issue, Christopher. When they're buried in soggier soil, particularly in a pot where drainage and oxygen circulation are much more restricted, anareobic conditions are much more easily encountered. You can get away with spreading a ton of all types of organic material on the surface of the soil where the temps, oxygen and moisture support the necessary fungi and bacteria to digest it. As you know, the problems occur when you lose the oxygen. I'd expect your soil to be wonderful with the variety of "good stuff" you're planning on feeding it. Good luck! Kim
WAS offering it.. No longer available! This rose is like gold nowadays. Luckily I bought 2 a few days ago before it ran out of stock. Is this rose known to be a slow grower? If so, is the fact that I'm getting it band size mean it won't get close to a decent size for like five years? Lol
Drew
Bare roots should be soaked for at least 24 hours before you plant them. I just put them totally immersed in a 32 gal plastic garbage can full of water. Back in CT I planted in my own homemade compost but here I have had to settle for what passes for compost at the local nursery I water with my home brew of steer manure and water and everything I've planted here in SoCal including those from Hortico has taken off.
Thanks Henry. So I can soak hortico bare roots for 24 hours with no issues? I read on the forum somewhere that someone had a bare root rose that died and when they called hortico they asked how long did they soak it for, and after they replied with a time longer than 20 minutes, apparently they told her it had to be soaked for just 20 minutes.
What compost can I buy from a local store that do well with bare roots, particularly multiflora?
Thanks
Drew
I have just finished cutting all of mine back, including the climbers. Got them sprayed last week with dormant oil. We can still have a hard freeze in MARCH. We are @3400 and anything can happen. If we get a freeze then some of the new growth will shrivel and burn, but they still will come back. This year I had to remove the leaves because of the weather being so warm they didn't want to loose them.
Camp Verde AZ
I pruned my roses back last weekend. They are putting on new growth, lots of new buds. We had a hard freeze down to 23F this morning.