22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
If you are considering using a manzate type product, you may find the following thread of interest.
Here is a link that might be useful: link to thread mentioned
We sell OSO Easy at our store in SW Ohio. In my experience they tend to put out distinct flushes, so you'll have a week where it's full and a week where it's not. In a #3 pot they're over 2' at the end of the season, I've seen them up to 5' when established.
A footnote to what was said above:
I want as many earthworms as I can induce to live in my heavy clay loam, so I go for all organics all the time. I have not moles but voles, which do eat plant roots. Visitors to my yard are strictly forbidden to kill the garter snakes.
Happy Birthday Andrea, and Meredith!!!!! I hope u both have a FANTASTIC bday!!! Meredith, congratulations on such a wonderful bday present! I know how hard the waiting-to-know period is, I'm so very happy its over , and with such great news!
âÂÂ¥Lyna
Was Barfield White Climber found in Florida?
ZD produced two sports, Kathleen Harrop, which is a silvery pink and Martha. KH is quite nice, a lovely color. Martha I have not seen, I understand it is more a salmon color. I love ZD, but the color is a bit in your face. Some people can't stand it. ZD should be possible in zone 6, especially with a south or east exposure.
Thank you, michael! Maybe I'll just make sure to put some leaves as mulch in those dry areas and them pull them back as the weather warms. I tend to be lazy in the fall and put the leaves mostly under where they fall ;)
Meredith, I would think how much supplemental water a garden would need in winter would depend upon how warm and wet the winter is. I can understand where one with frozen soil and regular rainfall would need little. The last two here have had heat spikes into the high eighties with less than half the normal rainfall, resulting in virtually no ground water. If I don't water at least weekly through "winter", I have dried out, dead plants. Kim
I'd agree with mad Gallica - it didn't keep all its foliage for me but it wasn't bad with BS. Probably better than average, but not notably BS-free. It is hardier than many HTs for me, though mine stays rather short and doesn't bloom all that frequently. I love high contrast colors, so in a bed with other modern roses it fits right in.
Cynthia
If they have new shoots growing, they should bloom within a month. It's not too late to fertilize moderately and water if needed. But if they are not growing, it is probably too late for new shoots to start and bloom this year in upstate NY. However, controlling blackspot now will help them survive the winter. Deadheading at midsummer would help them bloom more.
This post was edited by michaelg on Tue, Sep 10, 13 at 16:14
I have both the Austins you mention, and you're right that TGG gets big. I have mine under an arch and while it's not technically a climber in my zone it puts canes up into the arch to reinforce the lower portions while the real climbers reach beyond it. Mine is very slow to rebloom, mostly spring and fall blooming if I'm lucky, but others have better results.
Darcey Bussell sounds like a better option if you're looking for a more mannerly DA, though as ratdogheads says it depends a lot on where you are. In my zone 5 part shade bed it gets to be about waist to chest high and can put out canes to 3' or so if I let it. It is a dark pinky-red and seems to rebloom well even in less than optimum sun. Another DA in that color scheme you should try is Munstead Wood, which is a darker purply-pink that I'll be trying again this spring, with many rave reviews.
Cynthia
We're in 6a (always forget to type that in before I click submit). I'm leaning toward DB for both color and size. I've always kind of liked the clashy effect of red and pink together. I just wondered about DB's disease resistance. My only Austin is 'Golden Celebration' and it's wonderfully disease resistant though I never spray it. Most of my roses do well no-spray with the exception of three 'Julia Child' which look awful without Bayer every other week.
It's easy to be confused since both over watering and under watering will produce the same symptoms. But my bet is this is over watering because of the heavy soil and the tray on the bottom of the pot. If there is any way to take off the tray do so and if you repot find a lighter potting soil.
The large brown chevron spots are probably from cercospora fungus where the leaf was infected weeks or months ago. This is not a big problem. Just pick off the leaflets.
Some of the leaves look sunburned, perhaps from too much heat and not enough water? A sharp closeup of one of the pale leaves could help us. A balcony in Texas could get way hotter than the environment where you are used to gardening.
As seil said, it can be hard to tell whether a plant is suffering from too much or too little water. Water larger pots 2 gallons at a time and let the surface dry slightly before watering again, maybe every two days. They might want as much as 8 gallons a week in very hot weather.
I have Caramella, it does get black spot and does throw out long canes. I wound up 'pegging' it into a round shape and it looked great. Of course that only lasts 2 years, this year I had to prune it a lot and repeg. This way, it gets covered in blooms. One other not so great thing about it, it is not self cleaning, and the spent blooms are ugly and ruin the look of the other fresh flowers around it. However, the blooms, from bud to open, are beautiful.
I ordered BG for spring but my other FT roses have grown like gangbusters on multiflora. Not much bloom but I am hoping after spring pruning it will bloom.
So healthy!!! And I am no spray. Like Diane, mine got the late season crud but lost maybe 2% of leaves and those were low and interior which I should've removed earlier in the season anyway to prevent BS.
I highly recommend them!
Susan
From how own root plants of it performed here we propagated for Huntington sales, properly budded ones should do significantly better than own root in harsher conditions. The main issues with that supplier were chronic virus (often quite severe) and his shipping bare roots year round, including the high heat of summer, because he found it "worked". OK. Kim
I haven't grown any of those roses, so can't comment on them, but I second Michael's point about the pillar being a bit on the short side. Remember you have to sink the legs in about 1 ft to 1.5 ft., so that leaves at most 5 ft for the rose to climb on.
Why don't you check out the David Austin web site. He double lists a number of his roses--for example, 4 ft tall if grown as a shrub, but 6-8 ft tall it grown as a climber (and wrapped around the pillar). I think The Pilgrim falls into that category and it is supposed to be fairly good on the disease-resistance. Lovely pale yellow/white blend.
And yes--plant it outside the pillar. I didn't, and my pillar deteriorated unexpectedly--rusted and falling apart although the other one like it was fine. Boy, was that a job getting it out of the climber that was planted in the center under it. Now I always plant my climbers about 6-10 inches outside the pillar.
Good luck.
Kate
Thank you very much Michael. I would rather be disappoint now than have some kind of nightmare later. You saved me alot of time, energy and frustation. These roses were recommended for my situation by a rose company. However, when I started to look into it further, it seemed these roses would not be suitable. That's when I decided to write to the forum.After pouring over catalogs and websites the only ones I came up with were Zaide and Fairy Tale Cinderella. Your suggestion of Reine des Violettes needs serious consideration as well.
With much appreciation - Margie