22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
From the article:
"However, previous observations have shown that application of milk has variable disease control efficacy and PM can quickly develop resistance (Wurms & Ah Chee 2006), most likely because milk is a mixture of different fats, proteins and carbohydrates, and the PM can utilise some of these ingredients for its own growth. In contrast, AMF, which is derived from milk, contains only the antifungal fat component and no milk sugars or proteins."
--Probably we don't have access to AMF (anhydrous milk fat), but emulsified soybean oil at approximately 1 TB/qt. performed as well as AMF. I have sprayed salad oil with a squirt of dish soap in tepid water. Shake well.
Self watering planter is online and operational,if its successfull I will proceed with the asprin and rose cutting experiment. After some trial and error I got the growing medium disign right and its performing as it should.gypsom prooved successful in substituting hydroton and shreaded egg carton added wicking action without impacting drainage.this seems a good system to root a cutting with the dirt method,where rooting compound is applied and cutting is placed in dirt to root.will update as it progresses
The post is a bit misleading -- saying "new evidence shows..." because another article said so, but the evidence isn't provided there. In effect, it's a rephrasing of "I heard that..." It would be nice to see something more substantiated. For now, I'm sticking with removing the entire plant if I see any RRD symptoms.
:-)
~Christopher
Last fall, at the national rose convention in Tyler, I attended a round table discussion on RRD. Several university scientists discussed current research in removing afflicted canes, marking the rose, then watching to see if the disease presented in other parts of the rose. One researcher asked for attendees to send him canes with RRD and canes from the same rose that were not showing RRD, or canes from roses that appeared to have survived the disease. I'll have to dig out my notes, but I'll bet he is the person behind the reference "new evidence".
I have been using this method to fight RRD for 3 years now. IF I catch the RRD early, meaning it is only visible on one cane, then I can absolutely stop the progress of disease in that rose. I think this technique failed in the Tulsa Rose Garden because so much of the work is done by volunteers, and to catch RRD early, one has to be extremely vigilant, and really know what to look for in early signs. Between 2008-2012, I dug out 35 infected roses in my garden. Since 2012, I've only had 2 that I had to remove--out of over 350 roses! The disease is rampant in this area, and multiflora rose grows wild nearby. I suspect a few canes I've removed in the past year were just roundup damaged canes, but I'm not taking any chances.
Henry, once you see a published paper on removing afflicted canes, please let us know! I would like to present the official findings to our local rose society. Fewer and fewer people are growing roses because of this problem, and because of the continued perception that roses have to have chemical treatments to stay pretty. I grow organically, and I invite groups to my garden, but for most people, it's easier to buy crepe myrtles, hibiscus, and salvia for summer color. Commercial plantings that used to have long rows of roses now have shrubby cinquefoil!
Its old foliage near the base of the rose. Under pruning means pulling off the old stuff around the base so spores don't get splashed up in rainy weather and to improve air circulation. Some rosarians under prune HTs routinely 'cuz the old foliage gets ratty & drops anyway. Just pull it off.
I also had a bad infestation this year. I had to go out 3-4 times a day to knock them into soapy bucket. Between the trap and me, we caught about 3 five gallon buckets full of JBs and some June bugs. I hope that I got all or most of the JB's this year before they reproduce. I will report back next year whether the JB's population decreases with this method. As of now, I have a spotted a few but not quite the numbers I had seen during the peak of infestation.
Forgive me for straying off the topic, but those who like Francine Austin may be interested in the new variety Sir Walter Scott. Looks similar to Francine, with little pink flowers. You can see it on the DA/UK site for 2015/16 introductions. Fingers crossed that we'll see it sold in the US this year, I am saving a spot for it.
I forgot to add - one thing I would do is weed out any weeds which are within 20 inches of any rose plant. Then put about 2 inches of mulch around each plant - not touching the base of the plant, but just next to it, all the way out about 10-15 inches. This will help with water retention, heat, and eventually soil quality.
Jackie
They look fine. Since these were newly transplanted my guess is they're growing root ball and once they feel sufficiently established will then put out new growth and blooms. Good care and patience are the best things for them now. I would not dig them out and bring them inside for winter. Every time you dig them up or move them you set them back again. Your winter shouldn't be that bad that you would need to do much protection for them at all.
Oh ok thanks guys, and thanks for the link very helpful. I'm going to put compost around it and on another rose that's in the pics above too. The rose seems to be doing quite well so hopefully it'll stay that way. More fresh leaves are sprouting back on it. Roses have not been doing too well in my hardens lol!
Fungus like that which you're showing likes to grow on decaying wood in very humid conditions. I used to get fungus a lot when using wood based mulch. I never had it on a cane thou. Not sure why it would climb on the rose. Would you have a picture of the base of the rose.
That particular fungus/mold looks to be what people call dog vomit mold. Normally causes no harm.
Yes, it resembles the slime mold (Fuligo septica) that made a few appearances here in early Summer where I've been putting down thick layers of used coffee grounds. It also occurs on mulch when it's been very rainy and warm. It's harmless -- it digests dead organic matter. It can sometimes creep up onto stems of nearby plants, but the only harm may come from "smothering". For me, it dried to a crust in a day or two, loaded with spores.
I know it's just breaking down the organic matter, but I eventually decided it was too ugly to let flourish, so I found something that seems to kill it without doing much damage elsewhere -- I pour water with a squirt of dish soap over it. That makes it immediately "deflate" if you catch it when it still looks moist, and then it recedes back into the ground. If you find it when it's already dry and crusty, spray it with a hard stream of water from the hose to clear it away. But make sure you're standing up-wind, because it likely will release a cloud of spores into the air when you do this.
:-)
~Christopher
Sorry about that, thanks for pointing it out to me! I thought my zone showed up next to my name (for some reason). I'm in zone 5a. The rose is near the house, just under 2 feet from the wall, which is vinyl siding. The bed faces due south.
If you don’t really need a trellis I feel that you will get more bang for your bucks if you keep the rose horizontal. That is, 3 or 4 feet above ground then horizontal. The canes become very stiff and I’ve found them hard to move around once they get some age on them. Zeffy’s on the side of our deck have reached heights of 14 feet with tons of growth. Those temporary options look a little weak but may do the job for a year or two.
To anchor a trellis down so the wind doesn’t tip it over I used pressure treated 4x6s laid horizontal in the ground — just letting the top show on some, others I buried the posts about 4 or 6 inches deep.) On the buried posts I made sure they were at least a few feet on either side of the trellis. Envision the letter H with the trellis being the cross bar.
That’s my 2 cents….