21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Heres a pic of our Rose Slugs. They have turned a white
color from being sprayed with safers insecticide soap...
These guys are still little... Our guys can be found on top of the leaves but they also hang out on the UNDERSIDE of leaves...



There are two or three kinds of rose slugs, but the ones in my garden are only on the underside of the leaves. If I don't find any there, it's because the wasps have picked them off. Usually the predators get on top of the rose slugs after a while and they are not a continuing problem--but in some gardens they can be. I wouldn't use spinosad on them for fear of hurting the predators. For soap to be effective, you have to coat the underside of the leaves where there is feeding damage, and it's about as easy to wipe the worms off with your thumb.

It's rather late to give advice to the original poster (who posted in 2009!), but since this thread has been called up again, let me just add my experience with Double Delight--my most BS prone rose in my garden.
We've had continual rains here also--which means more BS than usual. Predictably, DD came down with a major BS attack. On a dry day, I sprayed it with the Bayer fungicide. Then I pruned it back a bit more than usual--but not drastic pruning, but a bit more. I was hoping the pruning would stimulate DD to put out new canes and other growth. Then, because I had no alfalfa cubes on the property, I got out my Plant-Tone which contains alfalfa (plus some other goodies) and generously spread it around the base of the plant and watered it in. Then I went off and did other things for a week or two instead of hovering over the plant.
Checked Double Delight out yesterday--it has so much new growth that I can hardly believe it. New canes from the soil line (I bury my grafts), strong growth along the old canes, red leaves everywhere. It's looking better than it did at the beginning of the season after its early spring pruning/feeding.
I don't know which of those things produced the "magical" transformation of my DD--the continual rain probably helped since it has not really been heavy rain--just continual. I personally think it was the combination of pruning a bit heavier than usual plus Plant-Tone with alfalfa in it that made the difference.
DD has so much heavy, beautiful new growth on it that I snuck in a preventative fungicide spray of all those red leaves. Normally I don't spray ahead of time--but I didn't want to lose that wonderful new growth this time--cuz it is still raining almost every day here!
Kate

Dublin, I'm so glad you posted this because that's the exact reaction I would expect a rose to have and therefore the advice I gave above. (Sorry, I revived this old thread because I felt the question was a good topic, what to do once BS has had its way with a rose). I live in a frost free climate and since I don't have the winter to let my roses go dormant and prune I do my pruning when roses in my garden become lanky and defoliated. I just prune it, give it some fertilizer (rose tone is great) and they bounce right back with more foliage and more flowers. Yes you get a smaller plant for the season perhaps and there will be a longer wait for blooms, but over all you'll get better health/blooms and the plant should be stronger come winter than if you left it long and lanky with no leaves to try and support itself. :)
PS my Double Delight is also the MOST BS ridden rose in my garden. But love those blooms!

Hi Zumajay, I hope you get several answers because I am so new to this but the blooms look like my Trumpeter and if I am not mistaken the Trumpeter is on the small side. I planted some in front of my house because they aren't supposed to get very tall. The blooms are small but I think the color is just breathtaking. Some of you folks that really know your roses please correct me if I'm wrong.


Regarding growth w/o an agar source. Apparently the paper always used at least some agar. It is based on a Ph.D. Thesis. Perhaps there would be some information in the Historical Section that would answer your question. This is what the paper states: "The basal-synthetic culture medium was the glucose-asparagine medium of Lilly and Barnett (1951) adjusted to pH 6.0.medium."........... (H.Kuska comment: In one kind of experiment) Cellulose and starch were incorporated into the basal-synthetic medium which was solidified with 2 per cent agar. High-grade filter paper cut to a pulp in a Waring Blendor was used as a cellulose source, and soluble starch was employed at approximately 10 g./l".......... "Growth on cellulose and starch, though not dense, is quite good after six weeks."
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There appears to be a pH effect on germination. The following is a quote from the full paper: "The greatest mycelial growth occurred at the lowest pH value at the end of the third week. As the pH started to rise more growth would be expected to take place, but on the contrary, the mycelial dry weights were less at the end of the fifth and sixth weeks."
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Glad my question helped some other people out too! Thanks. :) This has been a very informative site and very helpful for a newbie like me.
I hope I don't start bugging people with questions! I've been reading back posts too to keep them down some LOL. And it's good to know that becoming obsessed with roses isn't a new thing :) My husband won't have to cart me away to the mental ward.
Cas

I grew a couple roses for 1 season in miracle gro moisture control potting mix and they grew quite well.
This year the same potting mix is 2-3 years old and I'm
growing tomato plants in the pots... I sprinked some Dr Earth (Life all purpose) granular fertilizer in the pots and there growing really good...(Tomato plants)
The Tones are much easier to find local though so that's probably what I'll get when this runs out.....

I really like your idea!
I would purchase 4X4 outdoor lumber posts. Use a post hole digger and sink the posts into the ground. I would then attach the benches to the posts vertical as trellises. Paint the posts the same color as the trellises.
Make sure the above ground height of the posts is at least 2/3 of the height of the trellis.
This post was edited by lsst on Mon, Jun 3, 13 at 19:21

Oh gosh, mine is a monster! It gets a good 6 feet tall every season no matter how far I have to prune it back in the spring. But it's typically tall and narrow like most HTs. It blooms in flushes with about an 6 week cycle so I usually only get 3 flushes. But they're gorgeous and huge and last on the bush for at least a week if I let them. It's fairly healthy although it will spot some but it's never defoliated on me. It's potted on the patio where it gets the best sun. It's been very winter hardy too. All in all I'm very pleased with mine.

i know how you feel. i have one that has ben passed down though 5 generations. there are several at my 92 year old great great grand mothers sisters house. its ben there some where near 100 years. it was there mothers rose. i do wish you the best of luck. i hope it blooms for you next spring.

Do a bunch of cuttings before you move it if you can, imho, yeah. Then the move won't be so scary!
It'll probably do great. When it's cooler sometime in September is probably when I'd do it since you don't know about the winter hardiness of the rose. That gives it a few months to settle in before the real cold comes.
Cuttings are babies and not as hardy as they will be later. I make 2-liter-bottle open-top greenhouses for them outside in the winter, and that seems to help. I do it for any marginal small plant, and it works much better than being in the open cold in my yard. I just cut off the very top and bottom so there is a clear 'collar' that's several inches tall. Then I put it around them.
Hardiness here is usually a matter of 5-10 degrees (on Teas or similar, not most roses), so I don't know how it would work in places that need more extra warmth than that.

Often this is a small scale problem that doesn't call for a preventative response, so maybe you don't need to do anything.
The bug you found in the hole is not necessarily the culprit. There are sawfly larvae (green worms around 1") that tunnel in buds, and spinosad will kill them.

I grow Queen Elizabeth here in N. Texas, and from my experience she enjoys a properly brutal pruning. Try deep watering her, pruning her down, and administering a weak liquid fertilizer. It may be that she is simply using the nutrients to create a stronger root system; often times I find that my roses may not be growing above ground because they are growing below ground.
My QE grows to become a monstrosity, and has breached the 7' threshold already before the summer has hit. Don't lose faith, she's a hardy one.

If you see a huge graft union (knot) in the middle of the rose at the bottom, that indicates that the plant is probably grafted onto Dr. Huey. While it is not 100% bad, in my garden, it does have the tendency to sucker (send up canes of Dr. Huey) more than roses grafted on R. multiflora rootstock. I do still have older plants that are grafted on Dr. Huey, but I keep a close eye on them to watch out for Dr. Huey suckers. I have one on my Touch of Class where I have been battling a Dr. Huey sucker. If you bury the graft union, you may have a better chance of avoiding suckering.

I had a cherry parfait bare root rose that didn't bud out for almost a month! The canes weren't brown but it just sat there..annoying me. Someone on here mentioned to take a plastic grocery bag and cover the the plant, then you should have a stern talking to it. Within a week the plant started sending out new life! It may have been a coincidence but the bush grew fast and caught up to the other bare roots in no time!
Tammy O

Longest lasting are probably Falling in Love and Veterans Honor....both last forever on the bush and in a vase and look good from bud until the end. Always covered in blooms are Easy Going, Julia Child, Easy Does It, Outta the Blue and Passionate Kisses.

The Drift Roses series here in the US would fit your requirements. They stay in that height range, bloom continuously with no maintenance and are extremely disease resistant...no fragrance, though. It appears they are available in Europe...http://www.driftroses.eu/

Thank you both for your answers. I really like the drift roses. I have sent them an email. I have spoken with bierkreek.nl and they initially responded saying that someone was on vacation and they would get back to me in a week. Its been a few weeks since then already and I still havent heard anything back from them. I have looked over what they have available from their website but since I don't have any idea as to what to look for that doesnt do me much good.


The rootstock, if any, WILL bloom - it will just be a different rose, probably an old once bloomer of some kind. What I would do is let all of the roses bloom, so that you can see what they are.
Jackie
The common rootstock varieties will not bloom on canes that are new this year-- only on canes that have been through winter. They are once-blooming or June-blooming varieties. New canes (of repeat-blooming roses) that started in April will bloom soon, while canes of once-bloomers will just keep growing through the summer. You may have some plants with a mixture of rootstock canes and scion (grafted, repeating variety) canes. These will have different leaves and maybe different thorns. Locate the graft, and remove the canes coming from below it. You need to rip these out at the point of origin, and not just cut them back.
I'm guessing you are in the PNW or your roses would be in full bloom by now.