22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Rose slugs (sawfly larvae), which are green worms on the underside of the leaves. The translucent white spots are from the young worms grazing off the lower cuticle. They may have mostly grown up and pupated by now. If you catch them early in the season, you can just wipe them off the bottom of damaged leaves. You can also spray with an insecticide containing spinosad, reaching the underside of the leaves.
I am concerned about the strong branching shoot in the picture, which might indicate rose rosette virus disease. Please give us a couple of sharp images of that.
You're welcome. From what I see about the label on line:
VEGETABLES, HERBS, SPICES, ROSES, HOUSEPLANTS, FLOWERS, TREES,
AND SHRUBS.
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS
ferti-lomeî
ROSE, FLOWER & VEGETABLE SPRAY is an effective fungicide for the prevention and control of various Fungal Diseases including Powdery Mildew, Black Spot, Downy Mildew, Anthracnose, Rust,
Leaf Spot, Botrytis, Needle Rust, Scab and Flower, Twig and Tip Blight, and Alternaria. As a preventative,
apply ferti-lomeî
ROSE, FLOWER & VEGETABLE SPRAY on a 7 to 14 day schedule until the potential
for Disease development is no longer present. To control Disease already present, apply ferti-lomeî
ROSE, FLOWER & VEGETABLE SPRAY on a 7 day schedule until Disease pressure is eliminated. Then
continue spraying on a 14 day schedule to prevent the Disease from reoccurring. To prevent Rust Leaf Spot
Diseases, Anthracnose and Scab, begin applications at the first sign of Spring budding. To prevent Powdery
Mildew, apply in mid-Summer or when Disease is first detected. Continue applications until Disease pressure no longer exists.
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS
Mix ferti-lomeî
ROSE, FLOWER & VEGETABLE SPRAY at the rate of 2 tablespoons (1 fluid ounce) per
gallon of water. Thoroughly mix solution and spray all Plant surfaces (including undersides of leaves) until
completely wet. Frequently mix solution as you spray.
Hopefully, you didn't exceed the 2 TBS per gallon. Even at that rate, if your weather is expected to be as hot as you've indicated, you might experience some burn. But, what is worse? Scorched leaves of black spotted, falling foliage? You're right, it's always something! Your higher heat is going to help prevent some of the disease spread because it can get too hot for the spores to germinate. Until it begins remaining cooler, I wouldn't spray be once every two weeks for fear of burn. Good luck! Kim
Since oil sprays are not very effective against blackspot, I would avoid spraying in the evening because the water in the spray, staying wet overnight, might cause germination to occur. (It is certain that blackspot needs long wetting to germinate, but I am just speculating about the effect of oil spray.)
In the morning, plants are cool and well hydrated, so sprays are less likely to burn. Sprays will dry quickly, which is good for a number of reasons. Be sure the soil is well moistened before applying sprays, especially oil, sulfur, chlorothalonil, or bicarbonate.
I've been waiting for weeks for them to open up ordering. I want PHILATELIE really badly! I ordered it last season, but they ran out and couldn't send me one. So I made sure I get mine and get it in November instead of March or whenever I opted for last time. Also ordered replacements for my own-root BUXOM BEAUTY/PAROLE that never did anything and finally died, and ANN HENDERSON who also died on me. And got ELFI VON DASSANOWSKY because I love that light pink and yellow combo. Plus they have to replace two of my roses from last season. I got a mis-marked MONTE CARLO COUNTRY CLUB and HARMONIE never broke dormancy.
Beth - I ordered Buxom Beauty from Palatine this year, they've done really well, lovely fragrance. From what I've seen here, looks like I better reserve my roses soon. They have a great selection. The roses are really good quality and they have been very helpful when I've called with questions.
I bought two own root roses in mache pots at a rose show. I set them down off the patio in some dirt between some abelias. I never got around to planting them and threw them away. It didn't matter since they planted themselves. They are both over six feet tall and poke out from the seven foot abelias
On the other hand, some of us, including zone 5 growers, feed until mid-autumn with good results. Roses need all the nutrients, including N, to stock up on carbs for the winter. However, if you have been fertilizing with something like Rose Tone, or if the soil has high organic content, it will continue to release soluble N into the fall. So in many circumstances, it doesn't matter either way. I haven't noticed any difference in serious winter damage between fertilizing and not fertilizing. (I have experienced zone 6 and zone 5 winters in the past.) Generally, when you find gardeners advocating opposite practices, that means you can get satisfactory results either way.
I applied 10-10-10 recently and will probably do so again in early October. Roses here usually grow and bloom until mid-November. In zone 5 the rose-stopping freeze is around two weeks earlier, I guess.
Margaret was easily six by eight feet in Newhall (budded from Edmund's many years ago) and had no foliage issues there at all. The PLANT was gorgeous. The flowers fried as quickly as they opened. I loved the bush, the foliage and the gorgeous sepals, I just very seldom saw a decent open flower because they were so heat intolerant. Kim
Racinrose, Ooooh I'm so jealous! ;-) I love ur roses!! I've seen both on all kinds of mail order sites.But I've also heard those varieties struggle with our blazing heat. Our seasons are summer and winter with VERY little in between. Anyone have success with Hybrid perp. Or bourbons in zone 8-10?
BTW,Thank you for you kind words.I agree completely! They have SO much love, knowledge, experience to give! And all anyone has to do is accept it.Ain't Love grand!
-Lyna
I bought Scentimental almost 10 years ago and it has survived all the hot summers we have had recently. Oranges and Lemons did not fare so well. I think it (O&L) lasted 1-2 years only.
Be advised that if your weather is similar to mine, during July thru part of September, you may notice that the number of blooms will dimish significantly and that the color in the blooms will be almost always "wrong" until the temperatures come down from the 100s.
During that stressful time, Scentimental has 1 to 1.5" blooms whose color is either only bright red or a dark shade of pink. I only see one bloom or two tops at a time. Sometimes they have stripes but very few. They may appear to be the wrong rose to people who have not seen this before.
If your soil is as bad as you suggest, consider growing them in containers. It may help keep some of those the large shrubs' size in check a little.
Take a trip to Antique Rose Emporium (call first to see if they have a good selection of striped roses) if you want to see before buying.
I have not tried hybrid perpetuals here but I have seen Reve dâÂÂOr and Souvenir de St. Anne's for sale before in my area and have Souvenir del la Malmaison (shrub) and Zepherine de Drouhin. Those are not striped roses though. Reine des Violettes did not fare well as I did not like the shrub's structure.
Here is more info:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/rosesant/msg0217034631488.html?4
Luis
Don't forget that the July-August grubs are the next generation that would be largest come next spring.
Someone suggested to me some years back that if you apply three times the amount of Grubex per so many square feet in the spring, you will kill the then-big grubs. One competing maker even had in the instructions a 3x application rate for spring versus mid-summer. But this is not practical for most folks.
Did anyone find out what insect could have laid these eggs by any chance?
I just discovered this on the top of a hosta leaf. Not sure whether a beneficial bug/insect or not. Would anyone know please? I googled but could not find identical eggs except for this thread.
Thank you.
Jo.
Still cant believe this wonderful nursery is closing. I got several gallons I wanted and have several more bands coming, so my last box has not yet arrived and I will, like Kitty, be glad and sad at the same time. I keep hoping that at the eleventh hour, Greg will say oh wait! One more sale! I raise horses and there was an old gentlemen who would have, every few years, a going out of business sale. It got to be a bit of a joke.....Wish Vintage would keep finding bands that hadnt been offered yet.....
Jeri is exactly right. With the closing of Vintage, hopefully support will rally for the good nurseries that are left.
Judith
I've been very happy with the foliage on my Mutabilis. It does have a different growth pattern from most roses. It's very airy but I think that also suits the delicateness of the blooms. This was mine in August when EVERYTHING else is pretty much covered in black spot. And this is far from a mature plant as it's only about a one year old rooted cutting.
Maybe it depends on where Mutabilis is grown and in what orientation. Mine is in a dry and hot climate but backed against a wall and the open side receives at most sun until midday and quite a bit less in the fall and winter. It's quite full and in fact you can't see the wall. I believe Mutabilis benefits from occasional pruning and even a severe haircut every four to five years won't hurt it. Mine doesn't put out much new growth unless it's cut back at least a little bit every now and then, up to perhaps a quarter of its size. When it's left untended for too long it develops long, thin canes with fewer leaves and flowers.
Ingrid