22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
My 10 year old has been on my case about it. He wants to create his very own, unique rose. He's a little disappointed with my plonk it in the dirt and hope for a clone way of doing things.
He is a ridiculously intelligent kid (why a higher power would bless/curse me with a genius I will never know. It's hard raising someone smarter than you. ) He has educated himself, read books and scoured the Internet for information. I've promised him that 2014 will be his year.
You never know Kim. One day he may be giving you a run for your money :-)
M
Lol!! Small world! Bummer u didnt win either:( His roses looked really good. For me the post office seems a bit lost around here, since im in a small town it took them 2xs as long as it should have. The post office sent my shipment to Fort Worth then Austin (im closer to Austin) then back to forth worth and back again to Austin to be sent here. Yea, I know ridiculous! With all that , the only problem my roses had was they started to get a bit dry. But I potted em up immediately and they haven't skipped a beat, several have buds getting ready to open! Yeah! I cant wait! The only thing I dont really care for is he seems to put antitranspirant on the leaves, he says so they dont lose too much moisture during shipping. My grandma says it doesn't work and the roses dont like it so I just wash it off. They're her roses so I just do as I'm told ;-) Good luck. I hope u win one!
-Lyna
HI Coryla
Welcome to GW, and you have a nice collection of unusual colored roses to get you well and truly hooked. At least half of my 700 roses are ones that are not "supposed" to grow in my zone, so like everyone else is saying, don't presume the worst because of their ratings. At the same time, I've also killed (and repeatedly killed) about as many roses as have survived, so there's no way of telling which roses will like your conditions until you give them a try.
For cold zone survival, you've already gotten some good advice. Odds are the roses you got are grafted, so if you didn't bury the graft well below soil level when you planted, you can either gently settle the plant lower in the soil now while it's still fresh and/or mound up some soil around the base of the plant to cover the graft (the knobby bit where the good canes sprout for the rose you want). Most of us in cold zones will do some of what ratdogheads talks about to aid the roses in winter survival, adding several inches of some organic material (hay, mulch, oak leaves) to the base of the rose to protect the lower cane. If you have consistent snow cover in SD, that helps winter survival too. Presumably you have the same fluctuating temperatures and high winds we do over the winter, and keeping some sort of NATURAL cover secure at the base of the rose once the ground is frozen will help reduce the effects of both of those factors.
You might rethink the styrofoam rose covers as a first choice as winter coverage for a couple of reasons. First, natural materials breathe better, and don't retain unnatural moisture (snow and other natural materials are fine). More roses die in my yard over the winter from canker associated with trapped moisture and fungus than from the cold itself. Also, make sure not to do any winter protection at all, whatever the method, before the weather is good and truly cold and the ground frozen. Otherwise, you build a haven for mice and other critters to gnaw off your rose all winter, or for humidity to do the same in less obvious fashion. I wait till the day temperatures average in the high 20's for at least a week. Roses can handle some cold, even the hybrid teas, and actually need some of that cold to go into their winter semi-dormancy. Lastly, the really unfortunate thing about those rose cones is that to fit them on a mature rose you'd have to cut off several feet of perfectly healthy cane in early winter to fit them on the rose. In cold zones, you want to keep as much healthy cane as feasible going into the winter, so there's still some good rose cane left in spring after you prune off winter damage.
It's your choice - I'm sure some folks have used the cones as well as any other protection method without problem, but your odds are much better with the more natural materials.
Cynthia
As Michael correctly stated, many people confuse cercospora and even anthracnose with black spot. Both of those diseases tend to produce "black spots" on leaves and information on them is not as widely publicized as is the information for black spot. Both diseases tend to appear in summer.
All that being said, in many parts of the US, true black spot can appear pretty much any time during the growing season depending on local weather conditions That is why it is important to establish a fungicide program for susceptible roses and STICK TO IT for the entire season.
As for different races of black spot, as has already been ,mentioned, there are at least five known pathogenic races of the fungus. Chances are there are more. So a rose that is resistant to one race may not be resistant to one or more of the others. However, all the races are controlled by widely available fungicides.
Roses - and plants in general - do not have the same immune system as is found in insects, birds, mammals, etc. In other words, specific plant individuals do not actually "develop" a resistance to a specific pathogen as they are exposed. - they either have the genetic resistance or they don't ( this is highly simplified, of course). In a practical sense, if your rose gets black spot, it won't become resistant to later infections - you will have to control the fungus.
I always have lots of blooms in August. Of course I prune for it because that is when our State Fair is. I always put in about 150 blooms. That is pretty good for that time of year.
Last year when it was so hot I still had 150 blooms in the show. I water heavily and feed once a week. I spray every 15 days. I still have bs on some of th bushes, but it's on the bottom and I pick it off.
I'm cut back so I have no blooms on the bushes during July. Also there is nothing for the jb to eat!
You have some fine looking roses!!!!!!!
I have good blooms now, too, because of the JBs :D I just pinched out the buds once they came full force. So JB season is the ugliest time here!
I actually didn't pinch Weeping China Doll, and she's in beautiful bloom now, too. That's my winner in my front garden. Even eaten by JBs, she looks like something very pink blooming, lol. The rest of the time, she's happy and gorgeous.
I like 'landscape' roses like her and Morey's Pink, Baby Blanket and Roseberry Blanket, La Marne, Iceberg and Alba Meid, though. They are in bloom so often that I make sure to put a workhorse like that in every section of my gardens.
My front pink garden has WCD, Morey's Pink, Baby Blanket and Bow Bells (along with even prettier-bloomed roses), and it's really always pink, somewhere :) And either the nepeta or lavenders or both are always in bloom there past a certain early date. I'm glad I like pale purple, lol.
To prevent this, use sharp pruners and cut 3/16" or 1/4" above a bud site (a leaf attachment or a bump where a leaf used to be). Don't leave longer stumps, and don't hack and tear the bark. The short stump may turn black, but it will stop where the new growth comes out.
Pictures don't show this clearly, but the plant must have preserved green bark below where the secondary shoots are growing out. Otherwise they would not be growing. If they are going to bloom, I would let them bloom, and then I would probably prune to the next bud site down below the dead bark.You don't need to worry about the dead area spreading indiscriminately. The plant will usually protect itself. It's just that, as Seil says, stubs above a bud site are not worth protecting.
RU is very picky about not sending out plants too early. My last frost date is usually around Apr. 15-20, but RU won't send me an order any earlier than May 15-20. I guess they want to make real sure that they won't have to replace a rose damaged by a freak late freeze.
Kate
I think RU is a good choice. I looked at QOS at a local nursery, who gets their Austins directly from D.A inTexas...every one of them was heavily virused. In fact, most of the D.A. roses are virused there. My Jubilee Celebration shows mild patterning on a leaf here and there, but is still a vigorous bloom machine...so who knows if it really matters...but if I had a choice I would rather it was RMV-free.
Good luck, it's really a lovely rose in person, and the leaves are so dark they almost have a bluish tinge.
I have seen so many goofy things this year. Spring didn't start until the FOURTH OF JULY and I continued to water and feed as usual. Several of mine have the pattern you describe. I am chalking it up to fluctuating temps, turface in my planting holes of the new ones, and using Jacks early in the season. I thought my yellow leaved ones were water logged. I cut back on the water to compensate for the late start OD of water. I am VERY worried about an 8 yr old HoE. Same limp pale yellow leaves u describe.
After some searching I found The Charlatan. It is a shrub, Dainty Bess is a Hybrid Tea. Dainty Bess is a tall grower. Black spot resistance is fairly good. It throw singles as well as sprays. It is a little deeper pink than The Charlatan. The stamens are both a reddish color. To me, get both of them because they are both lovely. There is no mention of disease resistance I found it on helpmefind.com/roses.
The Charlatan, aka Sweet Pretty has a horrible tendency to mildew and is, sadly, not the healthiest rose. I suspect it would appreciate a warmer climate than I can offer in chilly, windy East Anglia. Dainty Bess has innate toughness....but it is a small rose for me - staying around the 3foot level and not particularly bushy. However, I am particularly fond of red stamens and would take either rose over Jacqueline du Pre - a totally defoliated and awkward 6 foot of rosey misery.
Mine wants to be at least 5' wide, but I think, given its relatively upright habit, you may be able to keep it in a 4' space. Prune the outer canes to an inward- or upward-facing bud eye less than 2' from the center of the plant. Mine doesn't mind being pruned to 3' high and wide in spring. Then take a foot or two of stem when deadheading.
The best policy is always to allow ample room, but those of us with small gardens are always tempted to pack an extra rose in. Better a slightly crowded 'Quietness' than no 'Quietness' at all. I'm so grateful to Pat Henry of RU for rescuing this great rose from obscurity.
Oh, I am so glad to hear that Quietness will not sulk when pruned. I really didn't want to move the two bushes, but the deer munching on them was absolutely constant. It appears that they were in their path, or they are particularly tasty to the deer, so I found a couple of spots for them to go to. The first one to be transplanted (to a deer-free zone) is already fully foliated and has several bloom buds on it. I agree a crowded Quietness is much better than no Quietness at all. In both locations they can grow as tall as they wish, but I will prune them occasionally to keep them in their more narrow space.
Molly
Experienced gardeners certainly familiarize ourselves with label instructions and take those recommedations into consideration. We don't, however, slavishly allow those generic instructions to DICTATE how we incorporate products into our care regimens. Requirements vary wildly among rose varieties; they certainly vary from one locality to another; they fluctuate seasonally within localities; and, depending on weather patterns, entire growing season often vary radically from one year to the next. Disease pressures fluctuate accordingly.
Observant gardeners attempt to balance the variables, and strive to develop and maintain care programs that are safe and effective for their unique set of circumstances.
Canadianrose - ah, phew (smile)! I've had such bad luck with Memorial Day I was wondering if it likes truly extreme temperatures (maybe zone 2), but if it's happy with you it should do OK in part shade for me if I get a good cultivar and get it past its first year. Thanks for clarifying that one. Doesn't mean it'll like the dry here, but it might have a fighting chance!
Cynthia
It's been so long since I've done this. The advice 25 years ago was to prune the HT after the danger of frost was over. My new HT are the first ones I've planted in over 20 years. I'll prune them in early February and strip the leaves. As for everything else, they will be pruned as needed. They have survived for a long time without being touched.
I THINK I MAKE THINGS SOUND WORSE THAN THEY ARE. BOTH BEDS, OLD AND NEW, ARE DOING BEAUTIFULLY. i'LL POST PICS WHEN I GET SOME DECENT ONES. AND THE NEW POTTED BABIES - CARDING MILL (NOW 17 DAYS OLD) HAS MUCH NEW GROWTH. AS DO -TEXAS, RED SUNBLAZE, & RAINBOW SUNBLAZE. I'M THRILLED WITH THEIR VIGOR. ALSO, AFTER ABOUT 16 MONTHS, FIRST PRIZE HAS FINALLY BEGUN TO LIVE UP TO HER NAME. THE LAST BUD WAS AS LONG AND BEAUTIFULLY FORMED AS ANYTHING I'VE EVER SEEN. IT ALSO LASTED FOR QUITE A BIT.
I KNOW THAT THEY ARE DOING WELL BECAUSE OF MY NEW FRIENDS ON THE FORUM.
THANKS AGAIN AND PICS LATER,
ANDREA
P.S. TEASING GEORGIA AND KOSMOS WILL BE DELIVERED ON THIS SATURDAY, ALONG WITH TWO
4.5 CU FT POTS, AND 6 BAGS OF ROSE SOIL...AND OF COURSE SEVERAL MORE SAUCER PLANT CADDIES.