22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I always have lots of blooms in August. Of course I prune for it because that is when our State Fair is. I always put in about 150 blooms. That is pretty good for that time of year.
Last year when it was so hot I still had 150 blooms in the show. I water heavily and feed once a week. I spray every 15 days. I still have bs on some of th bushes, but it's on the bottom and I pick it off.
I'm cut back so I have no blooms on the bushes during July. Also there is nothing for the jb to eat!
You have some fine looking roses!!!!!!!
I have good blooms now, too, because of the JBs :D I just pinched out the buds once they came full force. So JB season is the ugliest time here!
I actually didn't pinch Weeping China Doll, and she's in beautiful bloom now, too. That's my winner in my front garden. Even eaten by JBs, she looks like something very pink blooming, lol. The rest of the time, she's happy and gorgeous.
I like 'landscape' roses like her and Morey's Pink, Baby Blanket and Roseberry Blanket, La Marne, Iceberg and Alba Meid, though. They are in bloom so often that I make sure to put a workhorse like that in every section of my gardens.
My front pink garden has WCD, Morey's Pink, Baby Blanket and Bow Bells (along with even prettier-bloomed roses), and it's really always pink, somewhere :) And either the nepeta or lavenders or both are always in bloom there past a certain early date. I'm glad I like pale purple, lol.
To prevent this, use sharp pruners and cut 3/16" or 1/4" above a bud site (a leaf attachment or a bump where a leaf used to be). Don't leave longer stumps, and don't hack and tear the bark. The short stump may turn black, but it will stop where the new growth comes out.
Pictures don't show this clearly, but the plant must have preserved green bark below where the secondary shoots are growing out. Otherwise they would not be growing. If they are going to bloom, I would let them bloom, and then I would probably prune to the next bud site down below the dead bark.You don't need to worry about the dead area spreading indiscriminately. The plant will usually protect itself. It's just that, as Seil says, stubs above a bud site are not worth protecting.
RU is very picky about not sending out plants too early. My last frost date is usually around Apr. 15-20, but RU won't send me an order any earlier than May 15-20. I guess they want to make real sure that they won't have to replace a rose damaged by a freak late freeze.
Kate
I think RU is a good choice. I looked at QOS at a local nursery, who gets their Austins directly from D.A inTexas...every one of them was heavily virused. In fact, most of the D.A. roses are virused there. My Jubilee Celebration shows mild patterning on a leaf here and there, but is still a vigorous bloom machine...so who knows if it really matters...but if I had a choice I would rather it was RMV-free.
Good luck, it's really a lovely rose in person, and the leaves are so dark they almost have a bluish tinge.
I have seen so many goofy things this year. Spring didn't start until the FOURTH OF JULY and I continued to water and feed as usual. Several of mine have the pattern you describe. I am chalking it up to fluctuating temps, turface in my planting holes of the new ones, and using Jacks early in the season. I thought my yellow leaved ones were water logged. I cut back on the water to compensate for the late start OD of water. I am VERY worried about an 8 yr old HoE. Same limp pale yellow leaves u describe.
After some searching I found The Charlatan. It is a shrub, Dainty Bess is a Hybrid Tea. Dainty Bess is a tall grower. Black spot resistance is fairly good. It throw singles as well as sprays. It is a little deeper pink than The Charlatan. The stamens are both a reddish color. To me, get both of them because they are both lovely. There is no mention of disease resistance I found it on helpmefind.com/roses.
The Charlatan, aka Sweet Pretty has a horrible tendency to mildew and is, sadly, not the healthiest rose. I suspect it would appreciate a warmer climate than I can offer in chilly, windy East Anglia. Dainty Bess has innate toughness....but it is a small rose for me - staying around the 3foot level and not particularly bushy. However, I am particularly fond of red stamens and would take either rose over Jacqueline du Pre - a totally defoliated and awkward 6 foot of rosey misery.
Mine wants to be at least 5' wide, but I think, given its relatively upright habit, you may be able to keep it in a 4' space. Prune the outer canes to an inward- or upward-facing bud eye less than 2' from the center of the plant. Mine doesn't mind being pruned to 3' high and wide in spring. Then take a foot or two of stem when deadheading.
The best policy is always to allow ample room, but those of us with small gardens are always tempted to pack an extra rose in. Better a slightly crowded 'Quietness' than no 'Quietness' at all. I'm so grateful to Pat Henry of RU for rescuing this great rose from obscurity.
Oh, I am so glad to hear that Quietness will not sulk when pruned. I really didn't want to move the two bushes, but the deer munching on them was absolutely constant. It appears that they were in their path, or they are particularly tasty to the deer, so I found a couple of spots for them to go to. The first one to be transplanted (to a deer-free zone) is already fully foliated and has several bloom buds on it. I agree a crowded Quietness is much better than no Quietness at all. In both locations they can grow as tall as they wish, but I will prune them occasionally to keep them in their more narrow space.
Molly
Experienced gardeners certainly familiarize ourselves with label instructions and take those recommedations into consideration. We don't, however, slavishly allow those generic instructions to DICTATE how we incorporate products into our care regimens. Requirements vary wildly among rose varieties; they certainly vary from one locality to another; they fluctuate seasonally within localities; and, depending on weather patterns, entire growing season often vary radically from one year to the next. Disease pressures fluctuate accordingly.
Observant gardeners attempt to balance the variables, and strive to develop and maintain care programs that are safe and effective for their unique set of circumstances.
Canadianrose - ah, phew (smile)! I've had such bad luck with Memorial Day I was wondering if it likes truly extreme temperatures (maybe zone 2), but if it's happy with you it should do OK in part shade for me if I get a good cultivar and get it past its first year. Thanks for clarifying that one. Doesn't mean it'll like the dry here, but it might have a fighting chance!
Cynthia
With organic fertilizers, they are dependent on soil temperature for the microbes to break it down.So when the soil temps drop in the fall your fertilizer just sits there until spring. That is why I like to use it.
I use Monty's Joy Juice which is 95% organic. I will fertilize just one more time before I quit for the year.
Whenever I've advised bud nipping in the past, it was because I grow own root roses from bands or gallon size plants. It is a particularly good practice for young own root roses.
By the way, it should have been and always should be understood that I'm discussing own root culture. It is my only knowledge base. I gave up grafted roses very early in my gardening life and have not and will not return to them. That divorce is final, lol.
So, whether bud nipping makes any difference with young grafted roses I don't know. Logically, it would also help, but it may not be as critical as with young own root plants.
I would also recommend bud removal for any roses (including grafted ones) of any age that are demonstrating obvious weakness or stress.
Rieley,
Could you snap a pic of the underside of the rose for us? That way we can determine if the rootstock has overtaken the plant.
Also, how hard did you prune it over the winter? Was it to the ground? Some climbing roses only bloom on old wood. It may be that your rose is such a climber and will bloom after the wood has matured.
It looks like 'Dr Huey' to me also. You will know for sure if it is 'Dr Huey' if it blooms next spring on the canes it grew this year. (If they don't get killed by winter). The flowers will be a very pretty dark red, with not a whole lot of petals, and little or no fragrance.
A link to her member page:
Here is a link that might be useful: sheerbliss member page
Thank you very much for the advice Kim. I have to make some changes.
As Michael correctly stated, many people confuse cercospora and even anthracnose with black spot. Both of those diseases tend to produce "black spots" on leaves and information on them is not as widely publicized as is the information for black spot. Both diseases tend to appear in summer.
All that being said, in many parts of the US, true black spot can appear pretty much any time during the growing season depending on local weather conditions That is why it is important to establish a fungicide program for susceptible roses and STICK TO IT for the entire season.
As for different races of black spot, as has already been ,mentioned, there are at least five known pathogenic races of the fungus. Chances are there are more. So a rose that is resistant to one race may not be resistant to one or more of the others. However, all the races are controlled by widely available fungicides.
Roses - and plants in general - do not have the same immune system as is found in insects, birds, mammals, etc. In other words, specific plant individuals do not actually "develop" a resistance to a specific pathogen as they are exposed. - they either have the genetic resistance or they don't ( this is highly simplified, of course). In a practical sense, if your rose gets black spot, it won't become resistant to later infections - you will have to control the fungus.