22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I have seen so many goofy things this year. Spring didn't start until the FOURTH OF JULY and I continued to water and feed as usual. Several of mine have the pattern you describe. I am chalking it up to fluctuating temps, turface in my planting holes of the new ones, and using Jacks early in the season. I thought my yellow leaved ones were water logged. I cut back on the water to compensate for the late start OD of water. I am VERY worried about an 8 yr old HoE. Same limp pale yellow leaves u describe.
After some searching I found The Charlatan. It is a shrub, Dainty Bess is a Hybrid Tea. Dainty Bess is a tall grower. Black spot resistance is fairly good. It throw singles as well as sprays. It is a little deeper pink than The Charlatan. The stamens are both a reddish color. To me, get both of them because they are both lovely. There is no mention of disease resistance I found it on helpmefind.com/roses.
The Charlatan, aka Sweet Pretty has a horrible tendency to mildew and is, sadly, not the healthiest rose. I suspect it would appreciate a warmer climate than I can offer in chilly, windy East Anglia. Dainty Bess has innate toughness....but it is a small rose for me - staying around the 3foot level and not particularly bushy. However, I am particularly fond of red stamens and would take either rose over Jacqueline du Pre - a totally defoliated and awkward 6 foot of rosey misery.
Mine wants to be at least 5' wide, but I think, given its relatively upright habit, you may be able to keep it in a 4' space. Prune the outer canes to an inward- or upward-facing bud eye less than 2' from the center of the plant. Mine doesn't mind being pruned to 3' high and wide in spring. Then take a foot or two of stem when deadheading.
The best policy is always to allow ample room, but those of us with small gardens are always tempted to pack an extra rose in. Better a slightly crowded 'Quietness' than no 'Quietness' at all. I'm so grateful to Pat Henry of RU for rescuing this great rose from obscurity.
Oh, I am so glad to hear that Quietness will not sulk when pruned. I really didn't want to move the two bushes, but the deer munching on them was absolutely constant. It appears that they were in their path, or they are particularly tasty to the deer, so I found a couple of spots for them to go to. The first one to be transplanted (to a deer-free zone) is already fully foliated and has several bloom buds on it. I agree a crowded Quietness is much better than no Quietness at all. In both locations they can grow as tall as they wish, but I will prune them occasionally to keep them in their more narrow space.
Molly
Experienced gardeners certainly familiarize ourselves with label instructions and take those recommedations into consideration. We don't, however, slavishly allow those generic instructions to DICTATE how we incorporate products into our care regimens. Requirements vary wildly among rose varieties; they certainly vary from one locality to another; they fluctuate seasonally within localities; and, depending on weather patterns, entire growing season often vary radically from one year to the next. Disease pressures fluctuate accordingly.
Observant gardeners attempt to balance the variables, and strive to develop and maintain care programs that are safe and effective for their unique set of circumstances.
Canadianrose - ah, phew (smile)! I've had such bad luck with Memorial Day I was wondering if it likes truly extreme temperatures (maybe zone 2), but if it's happy with you it should do OK in part shade for me if I get a good cultivar and get it past its first year. Thanks for clarifying that one. Doesn't mean it'll like the dry here, but it might have a fighting chance!
Cynthia
With organic fertilizers, they are dependent on soil temperature for the microbes to break it down.So when the soil temps drop in the fall your fertilizer just sits there until spring. That is why I like to use it.
I use Monty's Joy Juice which is 95% organic. I will fertilize just one more time before I quit for the year.
Whenever I've advised bud nipping in the past, it was because I grow own root roses from bands or gallon size plants. It is a particularly good practice for young own root roses.
By the way, it should have been and always should be understood that I'm discussing own root culture. It is my only knowledge base. I gave up grafted roses very early in my gardening life and have not and will not return to them. That divorce is final, lol.
So, whether bud nipping makes any difference with young grafted roses I don't know. Logically, it would also help, but it may not be as critical as with young own root plants.
I would also recommend bud removal for any roses (including grafted ones) of any age that are demonstrating obvious weakness or stress.
Rieley,
Could you snap a pic of the underside of the rose for us? That way we can determine if the rootstock has overtaken the plant.
Also, how hard did you prune it over the winter? Was it to the ground? Some climbing roses only bloom on old wood. It may be that your rose is such a climber and will bloom after the wood has matured.
It looks like 'Dr Huey' to me also. You will know for sure if it is 'Dr Huey' if it blooms next spring on the canes it grew this year. (If they don't get killed by winter). The flowers will be a very pretty dark red, with not a whole lot of petals, and little or no fragrance.
A link to her member page:
Here is a link that might be useful: sheerbliss member page
The easiest "mistake" to make with a mist system is to not get the duration and frequency set appropriately for your humidity levels. Where the evaporation rates are high due to aridity, you need more frequent mist spurts, of possibly greater duration. Where humidity or lack of heat reduce evaporation, it requires much less mist at greater intervals.
In Sherman Oaks, where jiminshermanoaks lived, he could mist his cuttings by spray bottle twice a day and they would work quite well. That canyon was continually cooler, damper and foggier due to the marine layer invading the valley through it than my hotter, sunnier hillside just eight miles away, but as close to the physical water. Here, I would have to spray every few hours (no exaggeration) to accomplish the same results.
Probably as important would be the choice of rooting medium. Half and half builders sand and perlite is what we used in the old mister at The Huntington and with fog for ten seconds, every minute in full, southern sun and exposed to the wind worked perfectly when temps were high. Of course, somewhere like Camarillo, where it's twenty degrees cooler on average and the humidity is greatly higher, the medium could be heavier with less frequent fog/mist of shorter duration or they would more easily rot. Kim
Jeri,
Have you set up such a system that is not directly attached to your actual water lines? Due to the old hose bibs, probable leaky pipes, etc, we turn off the supply of water to the garden when we are not actively using it. So I would have to supply the mister water in a bucket or something similar (was thinking 5g buckets)
Don't ya hate it when you are busy typing a reply and a new message posts and you miss it.....
Kim
I was thinking of using some kind of larger sized "clear" plastic bin to keep the humidity up, but with holes drilled through the bottom so excess water could drain out. Would you think only hand misting with a water bottle would still work with that type of system? Was planning on a fairly dappled sun shade area so nothing cooks in the bin. I could fill the bottom with gravel and do holes on the side of the bin so the rocks stay wet to keep the humidity up but the pots say out of the water
This post was edited by Kippy-the-Hippy on Sun, Aug 25, 13 at 22:15
Sara Ann, I'm nearing 100 roses now and most I've purchased potted from local nurseries. I've had great luck with them. There are several nurseries in the area that carry roses, and only one of them that I'm not very comfortable buying roses from. That one doesn't specialize in them...just carries some that they bring in already potted; whereas, the other nurseries plant theirs from bareroot and nurse them along for months before selling to the public. Those nurseries are owned by master gardeners who know roses and are very good about only carrying ones they feel will do well in our climate. A couple of the nurseries even grow test roses each year to see how they perform here. I prefer to see the roses in bloom before buying, so I only mail order if there is something I really want and can't find here. Really depends on the quality of the nurseries in your area, though.
Jockewing, mine is pink and gold, too...no red tones. Pics were taken on the crappy camera on my old phone...just upgraded to one with a better camera last week.
Jockewing, thanks. Yes you are correct, the Exhibition name is Heart O'Gold, appreciate your input, especially your description of how you planted it. Pat, thank you very much. Sounds like you have some good sources for potted roses. The place where I purchased my Europeana doesn't specialize in roses, but the owner has told me that he has a very good source and they take very good care of them. I'm sure they are better than the big box stores. I thought back to the times when I have planted potted roses and I think maybe sometimes I waited too long to plant them in the ground. You must have some lovely roses. I saw a picture of your Outta The Blue rose on another post, really caught my eye, GORGEOUS!
Those pics of the damage wrought by the sawfly larvae (shredded leaves) look very much like the damage done to my annual salvia and my new young heucheras as well as the damage to my Easy Does It earlier in the summer. What can I use to get rid of those darn things? The perfectly round holes in the EDI are brand new. I will have to visit my local garden center I guess to see what they can suggest.
Will try to take some photos of leaf damage to post tomorrow.
Yes post a pic of the new damage when you can... Thanks
Rose Slugs can be picked off the bush by hand or try a product containing Spinosad...
(Spinosad can harm bees so follow directions if you decide to use anything.)
I spray Spinosad at night after the sun goes down so the leaves are dry by morning...
RU is very picky about not sending out plants too early. My last frost date is usually around Apr. 15-20, but RU won't send me an order any earlier than May 15-20. I guess they want to make real sure that they won't have to replace a rose damaged by a freak late freeze.
Kate
I think RU is a good choice. I looked at QOS at a local nursery, who gets their Austins directly from D.A inTexas...every one of them was heavily virused. In fact, most of the D.A. roses are virused there. My Jubilee Celebration shows mild patterning on a leaf here and there, but is still a vigorous bloom machine...so who knows if it really matters...but if I had a choice I would rather it was RMV-free.
Good luck, it's really a lovely rose in person, and the leaves are so dark they almost have a bluish tinge.