22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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jacqueline9CA

I forgot to add - one thing I would do is weed out any weeds which are within 20 inches of any rose plant. Then put about 2 inches of mulch around each plant - not touching the base of the plant, but just next to it, all the way out about 10-15 inches. This will help with water retention, heat, and eventually soil quality.

Jackie

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seil zone 6b MI

They look fine. Since these were newly transplanted my guess is they're growing root ball and once they feel sufficiently established will then put out new growth and blooms. Good care and patience are the best things for them now. I would not dig them out and bring them inside for winter. Every time you dig them up or move them you set them back again. Your winter shouldn't be that bad that you would need to do much protection for them at all.

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Ken (N.E.GA.mts) 7a/b(7a/b)

Remember this. Water is the "life blood" of your rose. Keep it happy.

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keithog

Ok thanks, I'll make sure it gets as much water as it needs, especially when hot.

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caseyjay26(6a)

My roses have lost some leaves as well this year from black spot but they are recovering now!

Compost is very easy to make as well Keith! I've done several ways but the tidiest is with an old trash can with holes in it for air and drainage!

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keithog

Oh ok thanks guys, and thanks for the link very helpful. I'm going to put compost around it and on another rose that's in the pics above too. The rose seems to be doing quite well so hopefully it'll stay that way. More fresh leaves are sprouting back on it. Roses have not been doing too well in my hardens lol!

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Katerina Stepovikov

Fantastic Laurie !! Really nice surprise to hear this update. Hope ye recovered well. Enjoy yur garden .....theres bliss out there . xxx

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countrygirl_sc, Upstate SC(7a)

I have a friend who has one sitting in water since mid-June! She said it keeps putting out new growth and she didn't want the Japanese beetles to get it. I am very curious to see how it does once she pots or plants it!

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Patty W. zone 5a Illinois

Fungus like that which you're showing likes to grow on decaying wood in very humid conditions. I used to get fungus a lot when using wood based mulch. I never had it on a cane thou. Not sure why it would climb on the rose. Would you have a picture of the base of the rose.

That particular fungus/mold looks to be what people call dog vomit mold. Normally causes no harm.

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AquaEyes 7a New Jersey

Yes, it resembles the slime mold (Fuligo septica) that made a few appearances here in early Summer where I've been putting down thick layers of used coffee grounds. It also occurs on mulch when it's been very rainy and warm. It's harmless -- it digests dead organic matter. It can sometimes creep up onto stems of nearby plants, but the only harm may come from "smothering". For me, it dried to a crust in a day or two, loaded with spores.

I know it's just breaking down the organic matter, but I eventually decided it was too ugly to let flourish, so I found something that seems to kill it without doing much damage elsewhere -- I pour water with a squirt of dish soap over it. That makes it immediately "deflate" if you catch it when it still looks moist, and then it recedes back into the ground. If you find it when it's already dry and crusty, spray it with a hard stream of water from the hose to clear it away. But make sure you're standing up-wind, because it likely will release a cloud of spores into the air when you do this.

:-)

~Christopher

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sabalmatt_dallas(Z8 Dallas)

I am growing this one in Dallas. I have pampered it as I love the bloom color. It's been somewhat disappointing. It's grown into a massive, gangly thorny climber. It didn't bloom for its first three years. It bloomed three times last summer. Unfortunately, the blooms are very short lived in Tx heat. Rover seems to have an insatiable thirst. I think he would be happier in a cooler summer climate with a lot more rain.

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Marlorena-z8 England-

^like mine....? I love this rose, so far...

I smell cloves up close in the stamens... I hope it climbs, I want a 6 footer if poss...


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Ninkasi(6-7 Germany)

I think Carol Klein is fabulous, thanks for sharing!

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jasminerose4u, California 9b

Thank you for this. Fascinating! I learned a lot and I love her enthusiasm. It is contagious.

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seil zone 6b MI

I agree with some kind of burn. The edges don't look yellow as much as they do tan and crunchy. Whether from fertilizer burn or just high heat it should be fine when the new leaves grow out.

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Ken (N.E.GA.mts) 7a/b(7a/b)

I live up in the N.E. corner of GA. Your foliage looks OK for this time of year. Just keep everything watered good. It wouldn't hurt one bit to drag the hose out and give the bush's a good watering down during the early morning's. I wash off my bush's at least once a week. I also use the same spray you use and have no black spot.

Mister Lincoln goes straight up. Just the nature of the beast. Just remember this, fall is just around the corner.

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nanadollZ7 SWIdaho(Zone 7 Boise SW Idaho)

Julia Child can get to 6'X6'--maybe not in all climates, but in hot ones I wouldn't be surprised if she does. My photo shows just the top part of Julia. Diane

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summersrhythm_z6a

I saw a lot of Julia Child at HD today for $14.99. :-)

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SoFL Rose z10

I was going to vote for Love and Peace too. Especially because of the deep yellow in the center. Don't you just love Aldi roses. They are such a great bargain. Mine have all done well. I have about 6-7

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Ninkasi(6-7 Germany)

I love it when you get a deal on them and they turn out so well. I just wish mine were labelled-- so I could pick up another!

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Poorbutroserich Susan Nashville

Thanks Michael. And Mad, no rocks here. Susan in Nashville

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SoFL Rose z10

This is excellent advice. Especially since sometimes the water just doesn't go where it's needed. Sometimes very dry soil repels water and although you think it's soaking it, it may not be. I think I'll go get one today.

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sam 5a Adirondack

Yes now is the time.

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prairiemoon2 z6 MA

Excellent! Thanks for the quick reply. :-)

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

If this begins at the bottom of the plant and creeps up, it could be magnesium deficiency. If so, 1/4 cup epsom salts would fix.

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omniavanitas_caz9

Sorry for not replying sooner, I think it ultimately ended up being a lack of water- it's been hot here in California and we've been trying to reduce water usage so it's putting a strain on the plants. I've been watering them a little more and there's been some healthy new growth with no sign of crispiness so they're doing better now. I did add some epsom salts for good measure though! Thank you!

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jerijen(Zone 10)

Different. Fewer petals. Different coloration, still nice looking.

http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/l.php?l=21.251105

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Likely these roses were infected during a "canning" operation in Texas or some other southern area where the disease is active. Or I guess some roses are still grown in Texas. Florida probably doesn't have enough wild roses to serve as a bridge for RRD, but the disease could take hold in any city in the country if nurseries carry infected stock.

I would like to know where the infected roses came from.

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henry_kuska

The following was stated:

" Reducing the severity of the symptoms....so we can keep sick plants around waiting for additional vectors to find them and spread it? Balderdash"

H.Kuska comment: It is my understanding that there are roses that are resistant to natural in field infection. What does this mean? Some observations may be due to the mites not recognizing the leaf surface as belonging to a rose. We do not have to worry about these spreading the infection as they were never bitten. However, what about the others that were bitten but were able to control the infection naturally? Are they going to be "Typhoid Marys" of the rose world? This appears to be a concern of the above quote.

My first thought is that the "surviving rose" may have a virus concentration below the amount necessary to overcome most clean roses' natural defense system.

The virus plant world is not black and white. There are plants that do not get infected by a particular virus (complete resistance). There are plants that exhibit partial resistance, and there are plants that exhibit so little resistance that the virus kills it.

If we add an external chemical that boosts the immune system of a plant so that the plant does not die from the infection, are we providing the plant the opportunity to "fine tune" its immune system naturally so that it will be able to fight the virus in the future without addition application of the external chemical? The literature supports this possibility. This is called systemic acquired resistance against plant viruses.

https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&authuser=0&gws_rd=ssl#q=systemic+acquired+resistance+against+plant+viruses&newwindow=1&hl=en&authuser=0&start=90

Can this plant that has acquired SAR pass it on to the next generation? Evidence is now being accumulated that supports the possibility of "next-generation systemic acquired resistance".

http://www.plantphysiol.org/content/158/2/835.short

http://scholar.google.com/scholar?hl=en&q=%22next-generation+systemic+acquired+resistance%22+against+plant+virus&btnG=&as_sdt=1%2C36&as_sdtp=

https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&authuser=0&gws_rd=ssl#newwindow=1&hl=en&authuser=0&q=%22next-generation+systemic+acquired+resistance%22+against+plant+virus

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