22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Sara Ann, I'm nearing 100 roses now and most I've purchased potted from local nurseries. I've had great luck with them. There are several nurseries in the area that carry roses, and only one of them that I'm not very comfortable buying roses from. That one doesn't specialize in them...just carries some that they bring in already potted; whereas, the other nurseries plant theirs from bareroot and nurse them along for months before selling to the public. Those nurseries are owned by master gardeners who know roses and are very good about only carrying ones they feel will do well in our climate. A couple of the nurseries even grow test roses each year to see how they perform here. I prefer to see the roses in bloom before buying, so I only mail order if there is something I really want and can't find here. Really depends on the quality of the nurseries in your area, though.
Jockewing, mine is pink and gold, too...no red tones. Pics were taken on the crappy camera on my old phone...just upgraded to one with a better camera last week.
Jockewing, thanks. Yes you are correct, the Exhibition name is Heart O'Gold, appreciate your input, especially your description of how you planted it. Pat, thank you very much. Sounds like you have some good sources for potted roses. The place where I purchased my Europeana doesn't specialize in roses, but the owner has told me that he has a very good source and they take very good care of them. I'm sure they are better than the big box stores. I thought back to the times when I have planted potted roses and I think maybe sometimes I waited too long to plant them in the ground. You must have some lovely roses. I saw a picture of your Outta The Blue rose on another post, really caught my eye, GORGEOUS!
Those pics of the damage wrought by the sawfly larvae (shredded leaves) look very much like the damage done to my annual salvia and my new young heucheras as well as the damage to my Easy Does It earlier in the summer. What can I use to get rid of those darn things? The perfectly round holes in the EDI are brand new. I will have to visit my local garden center I guess to see what they can suggest.
Will try to take some photos of leaf damage to post tomorrow.
Yes post a pic of the new damage when you can... Thanks
Rose Slugs can be picked off the bush by hand or try a product containing Spinosad...
(Spinosad can harm bees so follow directions if you decide to use anything.)
I spray Spinosad at night after the sun goes down so the leaves are dry by morning...
Andrea, my teas in full, all-day, unremitting Florida sun are much shorter and compact than the same rose planted in partial shade. I have Mrs. B.R. Cant in full sun, and she's about four feet tall and about as wide. I have her in partial shade, and she towers over my head and is about as wide. So I think it will depend on how much sun they get. Florida's sun and heat are so different from California's.
My Bermuda's Anna Olivier is in full blazing sun, and she also has remained more compact.
It seems that most of my roses that get no protection from the afternoon sun are slower growing and more compact--perhaps it's too much sun and perhaps my sandy soil, although I amend heavily.
Yup. That's Pristine. She wants to be very tall and very upright, and she's either going to be that, or die.
And Seil is right, that this is the normal habit for modern HTs.
How could it be otherwise?
They have, after all, been bred for the characteristic of having very long, straight stems!
This is the reason why my DH said upon early consideration that he did not care for roses. When asked why, he replied that they were "ugly plants with bare bottoms," and that they all looked "like they went to Military school."
The solution is to select those HTs that are not so upright -- or other sorts of roses entirely.
Jeri
Thanks all.
Pristine is my favorite rose in the world. I gave my mother a Pristine tree about 35 years ago. And everyone that ever saw her said that hers were the most beautiful blooms they had ever seen. My mother is no longer on this plane, which is why I purchased this bush. She is truly gorgeous...Not so much pink, but more ivory with tinges of pink.
Sorry, I do ramble sometimes
Thanks again and I will leave her where she is. She likes it there. I'll just keep pruning.
andrea
Yes Windeaux. How'd you find that? I agree. It must be a mislabeled rose. I am accustomed to Homebase's tag colours being "off". It never occurred to me that this is another mislabeled rose.
I've tried to get mislabeled rose info from homebase more than once. They aren't helpful.
Sooooo, anyone know who this rose is?
M
Wow, it's beautiful, whatever it is. I agree with Windeaux, I think it's a mislabeled rose. It looks really familiar, but I can't quite figure out what it reminds me of. I'm guessing since you're over on the other side of the pond, it's gotta be something from one of the hybridizers over there. To me, it looks like it could be either a Harkness rose, or a Fryer one. You might check out their websites to see if it looks like anything from one of them. It has those very distinct points on the petal edges that ought to help in ID'ing it.
I live in an area where deer are EVERYWHERE and eat whatever they want. The only thing that has worked for is using the stinkiest spray possible. I cannot remember the name right now, but we got it at our local nursery. I have to make sure all of the windows are closed when my hubby sprays it too. The deer haven't really bothered any of my roses in the past few years with this stuff.
I quite like my Hope for Humanity, and being a Canadian explorer it should be a good choice for your zone. Mine is about 4-5 feet tall in zone 5 in its fourth year, without much dieback in my zone (and it's tucked into a zone 4 pocket in my yard). You're right that the ultimate height relates to how much you have to chop off from winter kill to some extent, but a well-established rose will grow by the end of the season to the height it wants to be if it's suited to your zone. In other words, even if you have to trim it to almost the ground in early spring, it'll shoot back up in the spring and summer if it's happy (and you don't cut it below the graft, obviously). Don't judge its ultimate height in the first few years as it's getting settled, since the plant is liable to spend more time putting down roots than building height at first.
I don't grow Blanc Double de Coubert, but if you know someone in your area that grows it, then that's a likely option for your yard. I had it at a previous house but it didn't like my alkaline soil and faded pretty quickly to rather scruffy used blooms that you have to deadhead frequently to keep the bush looking nice.
Peace is a lovely rose, but being a Hybrid Tea it's pretty unlikely to be hardy in zone 3-4 unless you grow it in a pot and bring it into a protected unheated space for the winter. I can get away with leaving my hybrid teas in the ground in zone 5, but much colder than me it isn't really a viable option unless you have a particularly hardy hybrid tea or a protected zone pocket with consistent snow cover. Always worth a try if you're a gambler, but that one's a long shot compared to the others (including Rambling Red) that are more sure bets in your zone.
Cynthia
Ah, thanks Cat, ill have to check that site out more. Hortco is another good one for mail order..
Nippstress - Thanks for the input.
My grandma has Coubert and the flowers react the same, even in good growing conditions. The bonus seems that it blooms so much at once when its large, you dont notice the fading blooms.
I knew getting a hybrid tea was a gamble, but at first glance when i looked it up, it seemed to be hardy to zone 5. After I got it and read up a bit more, its hardy to zone 6 apparently. The bonus is, I do happen to have it in one of the warmest microclimates in my yard, with the usual abundance and persistant snow in the winter. Its in the same area as my niagra grapes, and musa basjoo (first year for those, and the peace). You have any recommendations on hardier hybrid teas?
I was pleasantly surprised at the ramblin red. It is a one cane wonder this year, but still had a large flush of hybrid tea like roses. I want it to sprawl in my russian olive, plum trees and garage.
The bonus is that all my roses minus the hybrid tea seems to be on their own roots. They can die back all they need to, the odds are theyll come back.
You are also right about letting them settle. My grandma has a rose called "hero". The tag says 5 feet, well, the thing put out multiple 9 foot 2 inch thick canes straight up. Totally self supporting too. I hope it did the same after she moved it!
And PARTICULARLY, as Mad Gallica notes -- THE TYPE OF ROSE . . .
Some roses are inclined to rust, while others are not.
If they are the former, they might rust even standing in solitary splendor. The answer might not be removing the perennials, but changing the roses out for more disease-resistant ones.
Jeri
I like to be able to get in and weed around all the roses. With a good spraying program or disease resistant roses, they will actually grow and bloom vigorously when packed rather closely together. But, a major concern for exhibitors is that you will lose leaf set--which means that that particular stem can only be used in classes where foliage isn't a factor.
A tea rose sounds like a good choice for your pot. The Fairytale roses I tried here grew so large and put out big stiff canes that I wonder if a pot would be too small right away. Also, I think the reblooming might be faster on the tea roses than on the fairytale roses. I think some of the fairytale roses probably rebloom faster and stay smaller where its cooler. The only exception for me was Lion's fairytale but it didn't start reblooming well until it's 3rd year in the ground after it got really large.
Not to discourage anyone from the FT roses because they are good disease free roses with shapes similar to DA's roses.
My neighbor cuts hers back severely whenever she gets irritated with cercospora fungus on the foliage--she did that around July 1 and they are blooming again now. Don't prune hard during the fall months. I am not sure whether it is already too late in the season in zone 5. I would follow seil's advice.
I notice around here that the regular Knock out grows faster than the double Knockout...More vigor...
What you guys/gals observe in your areas?
Its been cooler here since end of July I have a feeling
that may mean early winter weather this year... :(
I hope not though.....
During the spring I was too cheap to buy it, rationalizing that I could make a similar mix from bulk stuff cheaper.
Now that it's hot as heck I'm snapping it up, mostly at pretty good prices, since it's a bit off-season. That hand-mixing bulk stuff is a pain.
The MG is so fluffy & well-draining. I'm re-potting the bands now in gallons in it. I have them in a 1/2 (good, bought) native soil & 1/2 pine fines (Hapigro landscape mix).
They almost all look very good. Dr. Grill, Mme Charles, Pink Rosette, Coronado, Atomic White are literally climbing out of the pots. The bands I put in the ground with that mix are even bigger. Sunsprite is a 3' multi-caned plant--a couple of canes are probably 3/8" thick. These are spring delivered bands that looked very nice on delivery.
Bands I potted up last fall in the native soil with some coarse mulch are okay, but not near as robust as the plants from spring in the fines/native mix.
The fruit trees we planted in a mostly MG potting mix this spring look fantastic & have never wilted.
Yeah, it seemed extravagant this spring to buy MG but when I look at how the valuable plants we did put in it last spring have thrived--I'm going to get it at the best price I can & stock up.
I just went out & priced peat--2.2cu.ft. bale was $20. I don't think I can duplicate the MG potting mix at the price it's already offered at--& consider the labor--in this heat! I have also tried several store brands but they seem to have less peat & more fines. For my caliche desert area with thin sandy soil, the amount of peat really fluffs the soil & holds the water when mulched without caking up into a dry clump.
I'm going to fluff up the store brands with a bit more peat to get them to a similar tilth. I've also been adding about a tablespoon of Osmocote per mixed gallon in my experimental native + fines mix.
Sorry for the ramble, bottom line: right now I'm leaning towards putting more stuff in MG potting mix when I consider price + labor.
Coir (ground coconut fiber) is signifcantly better than peat and is renewable, where peat isn't. It holds much more water without becoming water logged, so it maintains better soil oxygen. I don't care for Scott's, but so far, the MG Moisture control remains the best around here. Kim
That's OK, Kousa. I do the same thing. I think we all do.
Folks ask for a recommendation, and I race to suggest something I love -- forgetting that I live in a foggy niche along the Southern California coast. Our temperatures are so much gentler than those in most of SoCal.
I'm trying hard to train myself, tho -- to look at where folks are gardening, before jumping in. :-)
Years ago, tho, some friends who were "bigtime" rose exhibitors heard about one of these baking soda/dish detergent "recipes." They sprayed EVERYTHING with it, and lost their entire spring flush. Boy! Was that guy TICKED! So, we do have to consider location, when adopting new ideas. (He should have sprayed ONE bush!)
Jeri
The easiest "mistake" to make with a mist system is to not get the duration and frequency set appropriately for your humidity levels. Where the evaporation rates are high due to aridity, you need more frequent mist spurts, of possibly greater duration. Where humidity or lack of heat reduce evaporation, it requires much less mist at greater intervals.
In Sherman Oaks, where jiminshermanoaks lived, he could mist his cuttings by spray bottle twice a day and they would work quite well. That canyon was continually cooler, damper and foggier due to the marine layer invading the valley through it than my hotter, sunnier hillside just eight miles away, but as close to the physical water. Here, I would have to spray every few hours (no exaggeration) to accomplish the same results.
Probably as important would be the choice of rooting medium. Half and half builders sand and perlite is what we used in the old mister at The Huntington and with fog for ten seconds, every minute in full, southern sun and exposed to the wind worked perfectly when temps were high. Of course, somewhere like Camarillo, where it's twenty degrees cooler on average and the humidity is greatly higher, the medium could be heavier with less frequent fog/mist of shorter duration or they would more easily rot. Kim
Jeri,
Have you set up such a system that is not directly attached to your actual water lines? Due to the old hose bibs, probable leaky pipes, etc, we turn off the supply of water to the garden when we are not actively using it. So I would have to supply the mister water in a bucket or something similar (was thinking 5g buckets)
Don't ya hate it when you are busy typing a reply and a new message posts and you miss it.....
Kim
I was thinking of using some kind of larger sized "clear" plastic bin to keep the humidity up, but with holes drilled through the bottom so excess water could drain out. Would you think only hand misting with a water bottle would still work with that type of system? Was planning on a fairly dappled sun shade area so nothing cooks in the bin. I could fill the bottom with gravel and do holes on the side of the bin so the rocks stay wet to keep the humidity up but the pots say out of the water
This post was edited by Kippy-the-Hippy on Sun, Aug 25, 13 at 22:15