21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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jerijen(Zone 10)

Just a suggestion (but it works for our smaller, local, slugs, and for snails).

Buy a cantalope. Slice it in half, and eat the good part. Take the empty rind out into the garden at nightfall, and put it on the ground, upside-down. Slugs and snails love it, so they will all rush under there. In the morning, they're easy to find and trash.

We really don't have many slugs or snails now. Lizards are WONDERFUL.

Jeri

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 8:58PM
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merlcat(7a)

I am totally going to try this by my seedlings!

Tomorrows to do list: Buy Cantalope

I'll report back! :)

Thanks, Jeri!

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 9:02PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Very old leaves on a rose plant will just get cruddy and die. That's what it looks like to me, perhaps exacerbated by transplant shock.. Some of them may have spots of cercospora disease. Just pick them off.

The other possibility--when lower leaves go limp with yellow veins, that can be a sign of overwatering.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 11:09AM
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Ascheid(6b)

Alright. I'll just keep removing yellow leaves then. Thanks for allaying my fears :)

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 5:21PM
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roseseek

Yes Laura, several are going to be planted this week before the real heat hits. The lovely thing about wrapping cuttings is, you use hard wood instead of the new, soft flowering wood. The only soft growth you have to "protect" is what is generated after the cutting roots. Since that is accomplished in the open instead of under cover, it's already hardened off, conditioned for whatever the weather throws at it. The ones to be planted definitely have sufficient roots to go in to the ground now, and should continue thriving even when the high heat hits. Ones like the illustrated Lamarque will continue being held in pots until their root systems are as well developed.

The two factors you have to be concerned about when planting newly propagated plants are whether their root development is enough to support them on their own; and whether the new growth is too soft, too tender to handle direct sun, heat and any wind without frying. If the plants have been grown under cover, whether that cover is a green house, bags or plastic bottles, they may be very soft, requiring hardening off, acclimating them to the hotter, drier, brighter conditions being out in the open require. Propagating out in the open eliminates the second issue. Growing them in increasingly larger pots, in a warm, sunny spot, in good soil with consistent nutrition and preventing them from flowering, helps accomplish the first more quickly. There really is no difference between these plants and "bands", except none of these have been held for months (or longer) in pots which are too small to prevent them from continuing to mature. A nursery can't do that. They must maintain them in a size economically suitable for shipping, and which also permits them to maintain a large number of plants in a relatively smaller area. Bands permit all of that. Gallons can at least triple that room and shipping. I use gallons as I'm not raising as many plants and none of them are to be shipped anywhere.

Amerique, "winter protection" where I am consists of pruning any plant mass which will act as a "sail" in the higher winds we can get with any winter storms. If we are to receive any rain, it will come in "winter". It doesn't freeze sufficiently here to damage any roses. If any roses (and most other plants) are to be transplanted, moved, "winter" is when it's best here to do it. I can't give you dates for your climate when separating them would be safest, but you should be able to safely accomplish that any time the weather isn't so hot that any root disturbance will cause them to collapse.

If you still have periods of rain expected, particularly a period when you should expect it to last several days, I'd think separating them just before the rain starts and putting the pots where they will benefit from being rained on and receive primarily morning sun (if there is any) would be most suitable. Otherwise, separating them when the weather is suitable for transplanting established plants or planting bare roots would be best. I hope it helps. Kim

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 1:49PM
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amerique2(7b TN)

Thanks, Kim, for the info. That helps. These roses were not rooted under cover and get morning sun only. They have buds on them, which I understand I should be removing to enhance the root growth.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 4:06PM
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deervssteve(9)

I have been diligent regarding application of liquid fence, despite some comments here. I'm going to drown the bush in repellant to see if it stops the diabolical deer. I believe they are not effected by the repellant. Portland from Glendora is already four feet tall and will easily go over six feet. I'll try the four foot cage and see if the deer can eat over it.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 2:45PM
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deervssteve(9)

I set a four foot cage over the bush. I can see that the deer couldn't eat the buds at four feet. I can assume unless robo deer visits, no cage needs to be over four feet no matter how tall the rose gets.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 4:02PM
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psk8er(7b)

I also like it but I thought I remembered reading that everything had to be cleaned up in order to keep diseases under control. I didn't want to pick them up and am relieved that I don't need to. Thanks

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 2:00PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

I think the idea of sanitation began with greenhouses, a controllable environment where it makes more sense; then somebody extrapolated to the garden. And once somebody writes some suggestion about garden practice, others will repeat it and say you have to do that. But you don't :)

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 3:37PM
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mzstitch(Zone 7b South Carolina)

Worth the wait, wasn't it Zyperiris!! Recently I've been giving advice to a new rose grower envious of my roses. I left this important note out! It takes time!
I also am very pleased with my gardens this year, like Buford I've gotten alot of rain. In digging new holes in my clay soil I noticed how much easier they are to dig this year than past years, and it has to be because of all the rain. Which in turn got me thinking obviously the roots of my roses have also been able to stretch out more easily given they don't have to work as hard when my soil is dry.
Sadly, can't stop spraying here, where blackspot is a big problem, even with keeping up with it I still get a bit of blackspot here and there.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 9:29AM
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roseblush1(8a/Sunset 7)

mzstitch............

I am gardening in glacier slurry/subsoil and after several years of mulching, watering and feeding, the soil in my more mature garden truly is easier to work in than when I planted my first roses. I am adding 10 new roses and taking out 9 and moving a few around and have found that it is a LOT easier to work in the rose beds than it was when the garden was young.

Sidos-House ... I don't feel comfortable giving you any pruning advice as I have found that I prune very differently in this climate than I did in my older climate. I think it truly depends on the rose as to the best pruning method to use.

When it comes to dis-budding, I feel very comfortable sharing my experience because the results do not appear to be so climate-determined or class-determined. I dis-bud my roses every year to keep rose curculios from breeding in my garden and have had the opportunity to observe the impact of this practice in my garden.

I now use the technique for any stressed rose and any newly planted rose.

SAS .... I think every rose gardener deserves to experience the joy of a more mature rose garden. It's up to us to educate them. I was lucky to have a mentor who taught me that patience is the gardener's most effective tool for success.

Smiles,
Lyn

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 2:15PM
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diane_nj 6b/7a

Wait until after the blooms die off, then trim. You don't want to miss the nice blooms from the first flush of the season.

Nothing specific with pruning Knock Out, just shape as you see fit. No fancy rose pruning stuff required. The town south of me takes an electric hedge clipper to theirs after each bloom cycle, and trims them into a box shape. Enjoy!

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 11:21AM
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cristinacarmela

Okay, great! Thanks so much everyone. I really appreciate the help.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 12:04PM
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zack_lau

I use imidacloprid+cyfluthrin granules to control grubs and midge around the roses.

I tried removing a hundred so of the tiny larvae from the roses--my efforts were basically ineffective, so I went back to the granules for control.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 9:56AM
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Kippy(SoCal zone 10. Sunset Zone 24)

I was just thinking about this the other day. Last year, I hated taking photos of my roses with their poor hole filled leaves.

This year when one rose started with the holes I thought well here we go again. And then the wasps showed up.

I still have some holes, but nothing like last year. Knock on wood it stays that way, but it seems in my yard the best solution was waiting on the wasps to discover that I had planted a feast for them.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 11:25AM
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bluegirl_gw

Thanks! I was looking for the old Olympiad 1932-Vintage listed it but they're out.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 11:12AM
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seil zone 6b MI

My prayers for all the victims as well.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 9:28AM
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sadie_pnw

Amen here as well. I also sent a donation to Samaritan's Purse for disaster relief. The Red Cross and other organizations can use the help. Praying and $ are the only ways I know how to help. So sad. Gean

This post was edited by harborrose on Tue, May 21, 13 at 12:37

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 10:22AM
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bluegirl_gw

I have a body bag Love (from Wal Mart, 2009) that has been very pretty. I picked it up at a miserable time in my life when i didn't have time or energy to get roses from a better source or to take good care of them. Stuck it in a raised garden bed of sandy loam in full sun, planned to move it later if it survived.

It was such a wonderful bloomer with so little appreciation or care for its first years that I now have a soft spot for this healthy plant that throws so many striking flowers.

Yeah, it's a VERY thorny plant & the flowers aren't fragrant--but she's been a workhorse & the flowers are beautiful & abundant. (Gorgeous photo)

    Bookmark   May 20, 2013 at 8:19PM
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diane_nj 6b/7a

My mom grows Love, I grew Fire & Ice. I like Love much better. Love has larger, better formed blooms. The blooms on Fire & Ice have less petals and blew quickly (and is now gone).

Another red with white reverse is Brandenburg Gate. It is the only red rose that I grow.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 8:08AM
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pat_bamaz7

JC is a great butter yellow, but if you are looking for a sunnier yellow, Sunsprite is a really good one. As far as bicolors, Rio Samba is my all time favorite...not as fragrant as JC or Sunsprite, but a nice light scent and just a show stopper. Love and Peace is also a good bicolor, but again, not as fragrant as JC or Sunsprite.

    Bookmark   May 20, 2013 at 4:18PM
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serge94501

Sparkle and Shine wasn't so great for me. Quickly faded and then disintegrated. I have 8 tree roses and the S&S has the shortest-lived blooms. The color when first open is amazing...but it doesn't last. I am in 10a Northern California.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 3:12AM
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roseseek

Bare snags sound like hard to see, leafless, prickle-laden canes, just waiting to snag your clothing or skin. Kind of like a rose "no see-um". Kim

    Bookmark   May 20, 2013 at 6:15PM
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meredith_e Z7b, Piedmont of NC, 1000' elevation

Sometimes a few roses in my mostly-organic yard need a couple of rounds of the Bayer product (with NO insecticide!). It usually happens in the spring. I don't do preventative fungicide spraying unless the rose is new and tiny.

I don't spray every two weeks by any means! And I have a lot of BS (black spot) in my garden, but it doesn't hurt anything most of the time. When it does like yours is doing and the leaves actually drop, I put the rose on the Bayer rounds. I don't keep that up, though. After 2-3 treatments I see if the rose is good to go. Most are here, as the weather gets drier with the summer heat.

The only HTs I really grow anymore are all climbers, though, so I can't say much about HT shrubs. I do grow a lot of modern roses, and my HT climbers do really well. I guess I'm saying that you can experiment to a certain extent with how/when you spray.

I like sun and airflow here for any BS-prone rose. That's my biggest method to fight it. And rose choice, I'm sure, but I do a lot of experimenting ;) (Apparently the early 20th century HTs on their own roots hate my garden/soil/spray regime. Live and learn :D They kill themselves; I don't even have to shovel prune! ).

    Bookmark   May 21, 2013 at 12:42AM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Roguing out symptomatic plants is good advice for the general public and managers of large public plantings. However, I think pruning is worth trying if you monitor frequently and have noticed the infection promptly. I have had a high failure rate from just removing the symptomatic cane at ground level, but two such cases are apparent cures. One plant where I cut the whole thing to the ground (two of its canes had early symptoms) has come back apparently clean. Two where I split the crown to remove a cane and associated roots have been OK so far. I did this after they had sent up bad basal growth after having one cane removed to the ground. So that's 5 possible cures out of 18 cases, though some may still harbor the virus.

    Bookmark   May 20, 2013 at 5:13PM
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buford(7 NE GA)

Like Michael, I think it's worth a shot. If you are willing to monitor it closely for new aberrant growth.

    Bookmark   May 20, 2013 at 8:15PM
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predfern(z5 Chicago)

I would also recommend Nahema. Mine is about 7' tall upright, most of the cane survived the winter. I just snip a little off the top. No problem with disease and I do not spray. Just fertilize with 13-13-13 and water once or twice a week.

    Bookmark   May 14, 2013 at 11:52PM
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yardmartyr

All great suggestions. Thanks, everyone!

    Bookmark   May 20, 2013 at 5:37PM
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