21,401 Garden Web Discussions | Roses


Sometimes a few roses in my mostly-organic yard need a couple of rounds of the Bayer product (with NO insecticide!). It usually happens in the spring. I don't do preventative fungicide spraying unless the rose is new and tiny.
I don't spray every two weeks by any means! And I have a lot of BS (black spot) in my garden, but it doesn't hurt anything most of the time. When it does like yours is doing and the leaves actually drop, I put the rose on the Bayer rounds. I don't keep that up, though. After 2-3 treatments I see if the rose is good to go. Most are here, as the weather gets drier with the summer heat.
The only HTs I really grow anymore are all climbers, though, so I can't say much about HT shrubs. I do grow a lot of modern roses, and my HT climbers do really well. I guess I'm saying that you can experiment to a certain extent with how/when you spray.
I like sun and airflow here for any BS-prone rose. That's my biggest method to fight it. And rose choice, I'm sure, but I do a lot of experimenting ;) (Apparently the early 20th century HTs on their own roots hate my garden/soil/spray regime. Live and learn :D They kill themselves; I don't even have to shovel prune! ).

Roguing out symptomatic plants is good advice for the general public and managers of large public plantings. However, I think pruning is worth trying if you monitor frequently and have noticed the infection promptly. I have had a high failure rate from just removing the symptomatic cane at ground level, but two such cases are apparent cures. One plant where I cut the whole thing to the ground (two of its canes had early symptoms) has come back apparently clean. Two where I split the crown to remove a cane and associated roots have been OK so far. I did this after they had sent up bad basal growth after having one cane removed to the ground. So that's 5 possible cures out of 18 cases, though some may still harbor the virus.



Saw the Kordes Laguna in New York Botanic last fall. It was a massive plant with huge foliage. The foliage was all the way down to the ground not one sign of disease and not even one sign of flower or flower to come. My garden isn't big enough for that one.

Hi Kristina, I'm from Boise, too, and thought I'd mention we have been zone 7 for a couple of years, so I wouldn't worry about Rio Samba not making through the winter, though this last winter was a doozy. I thought I'd warn you that roses get big here--every rose I've ever grown in this valley, and that's for over 20 years, has gotten way, way bigger that the suggested size. I have two Julia Child roses and one is 6 feet tall by 5 feet wide, and the other is about 6 inches shorter and just as wide. so if you have two Julias and a Trumpeter, you will be pushing it at 12 feet of space, even if you assume the Julias only get 3-4 feet wide. Diane

thank you so much everyone for your help! i finally bit the bullet and put the roses in, rio samba far left, then trumpeter and then julia child. i love the bold colors and can't wait til rio samba blooms. hope my mom likes them, didn't occur to me that some people would prefer pastels haha, hope she isn't one of them!!


You are at the low end of its cold tolerant range, so plant it somewhere where it gets plenty of sun, and some shelter (like on the South side of a building) from Winter wind. It will tolerate some shade, so don't worry if the best place only gets 4-5 hours of sun a day.
By the way, it HATES to be pruned (my MIL's "gardeners" pruned her lovely one hard, and it died back 95%, and took 6 years to recover), so don't let anyone tell you to prune it hard as if it was a hybrid tea. You can of course, take out any dead growth, and shape it lightly, but that's all.
Oh, put it somewhere where it can get at least 6 feet wide so that you are not always fighting it.
What bluegirl said about when it is in a pot is all correct.
Jackie

Get some potting soil. Whether it has fertilizer or not doesn't matter as long as it's POTTING soil and not garden soil or top soil. Container grown roses need a lighter mix so the pots will drain properly and garden or top soil is too heavy and will retain too much water causing the roots to rot. Make sure there are lots of drainage holes in the pot and put it up on a trolley or something so it will drain freely.
I know they instruct you not to fertilize right away but I've used the potting soils with fertilizers in it many times and had no problems. I don't know how much fertilizer is really in those soils but it's never burned the roots for me. I've also used the ones with the moisture crystals in it and that works fine too.

Yeah, I learned about potting mix after inheriting this garden. The containers have been filled with soil on a Brooklyn roof for years and years. Not ideal but everthing grows! My one casualty was an inherited rose that didn't survive last winter ... which is why I ordered the new one.
Next season I'll start repotting some things with the right mix. I was mostly worried about the fertilizer content killing this little rose (which is looking a little sucker punched from travelling cross country in a box).
Any recommendations for a potting mix? I'd like something that does a great job retaining moisture, to help guard against my inevitable negligence.

Thanks for asking this. I have a Joseph's Coat that is in year 2 and growing like crazy and I would like to get it to grow up a porch post but not sure how to guide it there since the canes aren't really long enough yet. Could I guide it toward the post somehow?


It may be alittle transplant shock... Have your temps been high? If so you might want to shade them during the hottest part of your day for awhile until they perk back up. Like put plastic outdoor chairs over them.
But I do realize you have 20 of them so that would be rough.
Keep them well watered...
Did you give them any granular fertilizer? I just did that to my starting the second year double KO's and they did not like it very much at al herel.
I do not fertilze first year roses at all...

As Jim suggests, it could be fertilizer burn--too much fast nitrogen. New roses should be fertilized less than label doses because they may already have fertilizer in the potting mix. And label doses are already very generous, so you should never exceed them. Flushing the soil with plenty of water might help. It is possible to kill roses with fertilizer, but I expect these will survive.



JC is a great butter yellow, but if you are looking for a sunnier yellow, Sunsprite is a really good one. As far as bicolors, Rio Samba is my all time favorite...not as fragrant as JC or Sunsprite, but a nice light scent and just a show stopper. Love and Peace is also a good bicolor, but again, not as fragrant as JC or Sunsprite.
Sparkle and Shine wasn't so great for me. Quickly faded and then disintegrated. I have 8 tree roses and the S&S has the shortest-lived blooms. The color when first open is amazing...but it doesn't last. I am in 10a Northern California.