22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
yes, they have bloomed for me this year. I staked up some of the longer canes with these thing bamboo stakes I have....I just didn't like how they were flopping over from the weight. When would be a good time to prune the long canes back? Should I do it in the fall, or in the spring? They are still currently blooming. Thanks.
I can easily sympathize with someone being driven CRAZY by cicada song. Fortunately, I tune it out.
Now, when toads start singing all night....BREEEEEEEEEEEEE!
Arg, I've been known to go out with a flashlight & catch them in a bucket to dump them in another part of the yard. Several times a night *sigh*. Hasn't been a problem in a long time--no water. Think it would now be a welcome sound to hear them celebrating a nice rain. Funny what sounds are annoying & what sounds you just tune out.
Last time they came out, the cicada wasps did as well. They are interesting-they go into a cicada nest, captures one and takes it to her 'burrow'. Then she lays an egg on it and it lives off the cicada. Last time they were here we observed this, it was cool!
Well, I think you'll love New Dawn! I DO have a suggestion for a hardy, mostly thorn-less climber, however, and that is Felix Le Clerc. Its a new-ish one for me (I have only had it one year) so I can't tell you too much, but it IS mostly thornless and blooms a lot! Supposedly hardy to zone 3. My one hesitation is I'm not sure it'll get big enough for your pergola. Still - worth a look!
Good luck!
Best,
Frances
Thanks for posting this update! Those of us in cold zones are always looking for roses that can be beautiful as well as hardy under these conditions. I find that The McCartney rose is coming into its own in my yard in its 3rd year, and Elina has always been good for me. I've had Headliner in my wish list for some time and you're convincing me to bump it up in the plans!
Cynthia
It takes a little practice. I don't think anyone who does it would say they have 100% success with it. I had terrible luck with it myself in the beginning and even now only about half my cuttings will take but I keep at it and try to improve that with every batch. Do give it a try for this lovely sport. Go over to the propagation forum and do a search. You'll find tons of different ways to do it. Experiment with it until you find the one that works best for you.
I use clear plastic drinking cups with holes in the bottom for drainage. I fill them with seed starter soil instead of potting soil because it's lighter. For soft wood cuttings a cane that has just bloomed is perfect. Cut a length of cane about 12 inches long. Remove the spent bloom. You can remover the leaves or leave them on. I've done it both ways and it didn't seem to make a difference. At the bottom of the piece take some scissors and gently scrape off the green outer skin to reveal the white layer just beneath it and dip it into some type of rooting hormone. I've used both powdered and liquid. Take a pencil and make a hole in the seed starter soil for the cane to go into with out rubbing off the hormone. Put the cane down in the hole and gently pat the soil back into place around it. You don't want there to be any air pockets so I usually tap the cup a couple of times on the table when I'm done to settle it all in. Water it and keep it evenly moist but not soggy wet. A lot of people use misters but I can't afford one so I just keep a vigilant eye on them to make sure they remain moist. If they dry out completely they're usually toast. I put mine outside in the morning sunlight with my seedlings but you can also put them in dappled sun or under a light if that works better for you. And wait...that's the hard part, lol. In maybe 4 to 6 to 8 weeks you should see some roots around the cup. That's why I like the clear cups, you can see when it's got roots. I'll wait until the cup is pretty full of roots showing and then move them up into a one gallon pot. Don't think that if they start to leaf out that they're rooting either. Sometimes they'll use what stored energy there is in the cane to leaf out but they still don't have any roots so just let them be. I hope that helps and you get that beauty rooted!
barb_roselover_in,
Chlorosis can be a manifestation of an iron deficiency, which could be associated with water alkalinity and thus a high pH if not corrected by some measure. Chlorosis can also be caused by damaged roots, improper drainage, but some kind of deficiency is a common cause. You are dealing with a bands you just received, so it could be difficult to determine what the cause is. Maybe another rose grower will chime in with a better way to actually diagnose the problem. If you can take a photo and post it, that is often helpful for some in determining issues with roses too.
Lynn
Literally, chlorosis just means yellowing. The most common type is iron deficiency, which shows green veins against a pale green or yellowish green background on the new growth.
Your cuttings are stressed. I wouldn't be putting stuff on them. Just keep moist and give good light but not hot sun.
I am loving the cool ... low 90s. I can get work done for more than three hours a day. It's amazing how many projects appear when there is more time to do things. When it's hot, I just do what needs to be done to get the rose through the heat. Now, I can actually finish some of the projects I started.
This is the first summer I've had a chance to work more than three hours a day before it was too hot to be outside.
Oh, yeah, the blooms are lasting longer.
Smiles,
Lyn
I think these roses are infested with spider mites, which would cause the fine yellowish stippling on top and the dirty appearance of the undersides. Look at the undersides through a magnifier, preferably 6x, and I think you will see wispy webs, tiny amber colored crablike critters, and perhaps their yellowish eggs. They suck plant juices and will eventually cause the leaves to curl and die.
The Two-Spotted Mite is everywhere, but population explosions can occur a) when roses are grown indoors or sheltered from rain b) when insecticides have reduced their natural enemies c) in hot dry weather. Outbreaks are best treated with water--a hard spray directed to the undersides every day or two. Have you used an insecticide?
I am not sure what caused the brown mottling. but it is probably not a fungus disease. The dead brown patches that I think I see in the first fuzzy picture seem different and could be burn from too much fertilizer.
Fourth day, fourth bag! And yet still bigger. Now I am seeding an area along my back fence that I want to convert into a huge bed this spring with the grounds to attract worms. This has turned into a huge new resource for me. Between the grounds and the horse stables near my house that will fill up as much of your truck as you want for $20 bucks, I should have plenty of organic matter to go around. Don't know why, but nothing in gardening excites me more than turning dirt into that black chocolate cake. I have highly acidic, leached soil with almost no innate fertility, but it does have perfect loam texture. So with the right amendments and organic matter, I can create terrific soil.
I make the rounds from time to time, and get bags of grounds from several Starbucks in my area. Some have large bags full, some might only have a couple of pounds because someone else beat me to it. I mostly compost the grounds, but do add some to my beds. There's a church group that regularly picks up grounds from a Starbucks near them, and they compost them, and sell the compost, and the $$ they make goes to a charity they support that helps children in need.
Plant them. I wouldn't consider this "fall" planting. I don't know exactly where you are or when your first frost date is but this is only the beginning of August and my bet is that they will have plenty of time to get settled in before winter sets in. Give them some added protection this fall and I think they'll do fine.
When I've tried fall planting in the past it was on things ordered for the new season in September. I didn't get them until late in the month, and sometimes into October, and planted them right away. Those never did well at all and I lost them. So I quit doing that now and when I order in September it's for a spring shipment date. But I plant and move roses through August all the time with no problem.
As you have read above, it is rose slugs (which are not slugs but sawfly larvae). You can wipe them off the backs of the leaflets or you can spray with an insecticide containing spinosad, reaching the underside of the leaves. Roses that do not show any damage do not need to be sprayed. The sawflies prefer certain varieties. If you spray in the evening, spinosad is not hard on beneficial insects, and it is relatively safe to handle. You could also use a "house and garden" aerosol containing pyrethrins, being careful to follow the instructions.
I use Milky Spore for the Japanese Beetles. It slow (and expensive), but I add to it each year. I does not completely eliminate them because they do fly in from the neighborhood, but it does keep them under control in my yard.
None of these bugs will kill your roses. Unsightly, yes. But the bugs go away and roses almost always recover in time for their fall flush. As Jeri pointed out, Mother Nature knows what she's doing.
Wow, I had no idea. I always thought you were supposed to cut roses way back in the fall. No wonder I've never had good luck with them. I'm glad I asked first. Thanks!
SnailLover
If your rose canes get winterkilled to or near ground level then you have no choice but to prune low to ground even in the Spring time..
But rose bushes that have winter hardy canes with not much dieback you have a choice on how much you want to prune off.
Yes, do hard pruning in the Spring...