22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Fungicide spraying is preventative, not curative. You have to spray BEFORE it gets bad.
After about ten years of growing GC, I would note the following:
1. GC is quite vulnerable to black spot, as mine gets it here where black spot is pretty uncommon and mild, while 95% of my other roses never show a spot.
2. GC doesn't like hard pruning, so take off as little as you can. It forms a nicely shaped plant without much correction needed, just deadhead to keep it blooming.
3. GC has truly nasty prickles--I never go near it without gloves.
'Harison's Yellow' is not actually a climber, but it is a pretty rank grower so if there is something nearby it will probably clamber over it..
It's really a "plant it and forget it" rose - almost a species (although technically it is a hybrid). It's one of the feature roses of the Heritage Rose District of NYC- it was originally discovered there back in the early 1800's. It does tend to sucker a lot, so if you plant it in your garden, keep that in mind. Otherwise, it's easy and not particular at all.
In fact. it was so easy that cuttings were carried west by the early settlers and you see it all over now. So it certainlycould be the one from your childhood.
Some people compare the "fragrance" to linseed oil, which is probably the closest description of it. Not your typical rose fragrance.
Oh hello, I'm still here! Since it FINALLY quit raining everyday, the backyard has finally dried out some. I may have been overemphasizing the drainage problem somewhat due to what was going on at the time. I have started layering organic matter all along the back fence to improve the soil there. That is usually my "wettest" spot, so hopefully improving the drainage properties there will help the backyard as a whole. I am going to see how that works first before doing anything really drastic or expensive.
I have already taken the first step and limed with dolomitic lime to increase my pH and improve my magnesium and calcium deficiencies.
Glad things are looking better. But improving the texture of the soil doesn't solve a drainage problem. Where is the water going to go? A bed of fluffy soil surrounded by clay will fill up with water faster than a bed of clay surrounded by clay--unless the bed is raised (or you have an outdoor sump pump :).
Thanks to all for responding!!
Anthony... The website info on SeaCom does not specify if it is to be used as a foliar spray or added to the roots. Your response would then make me question if the results would make a difference in how it is applied. As a foliar spray, I was considering using it once or twice most. I was looking for the results of more leaves. I should also add that I use RoseTone as a soil fertilizer. I do add alfalfa pellets to the soil every spring to encourage basal breaks.
Henry...OK....so some seaweed can have heavy metals in it...I am using this strictly for roses....no vegetables. But, I also do not use any e.g. pesticides, etc. for fear of hurting my dogs, wildlife, etc. Took soil samples today as a "just in case" I may be low in magnesium.... and am very PROUD that there were many earthworms in the soil. I am relieved to hear from you that your interpretation of what PAN is stating "very little testing has been done". If anyone on this site would have read anything regarding toxicity, it would have been you or michaelg!
Thanks!
Rose
Regarding the use of too much cytokinin. In tissue cultures the cytokinin/auxin ratios are critical. In grown plant applications I could not find any references to problems due to high cytokinin usage. Of course theoretically it is possible (if the plant does not have built in self regulating protections). Does anyone know of any published problems?
If the leaves grew out that way, it is RMV. RMV is more active in cool weather and the leaves that emerge later in warmer weather are less likely to show symptoms.
Although opinions differ, most of us would keep the plant. It takes several years for PJ to amount to anything.
If it is a very large arbor, Nahema and Laguna are strong growing, very fragrant pink climbers with some blackspot resistance. For a normal sized arbor, maybe Heritage, a large shrub that is trainable, nearly thornless, and fragrant. It is susceptible to rust if that is a problem in your climate. Renae is a nice small climber with light fragrance, also not too thorny.
Lavender Lassie is a flush bloomer here. It provides two heavy bloom cycles each year. Once in spring and another in fall. It is not a rose that will have a few blooms on it here and there after the spring flush. Instead, after the spring flush, it puts on lots of new growth and then reblooms heavily in a fall flush once the weather cools down. In a BS heavy region like Seattle, I would go with Jasmina or Laguna instead of Lavender Lassie.
The great thing about having a rose garden is that you can plant whatever you want for whatever reason you want.
If you like orangey-colored HTs, you might want to look at "Liverpool Remembers" - it's really pops in the garden. Aside from its thorniness, it's a nice rose and IMHO a much better one than "Oldtimer". for that color range
Just a little visual of some of the growth on my Fortuniana bushes:
Hot Princess, St. Patrick, and Marlon's Day (sport of Moonstone) showing all the new shoots and stems on plants in small pots for only a month:
This is a pic of a rose recommended to me by Mr. Mills as one of his favorite reds. I have found little to no info out there on it. I believe it is a cross of Moonstone and Cajun Moon, both of which have the same parents, Crystalline and Lynn Anderson. So basically it is an incestuous rose! It is called Carolina Pride. It seems to be behaving as a floribunda or grandiflora as it is putting out a candelabra type flowering stem.
There's a lot of that "candelabra" stuff behind your rose.
When we planted its ancestor, 'Crystalline' here, the huge candelabras (which then wanted to fall over) were one of my main complaints. You could disbud it one day, and when you came back in the morning, it would have pushed up new sidebuds.
THAT tendency will likely remain.
But please don't judge these baby roses. Just grow them, and don't expect perfection from them. They need a year or two to grow up.
Jeri
Pruning won't make it bloomer faster. Let it grow in its new spot (with 6 hours of sun) for a year. Then see how it blooms next year.
As the previous poster said, it may be a climber--another reason to let it grow for a year so you can better determine exactly what you have there.
You should be aware that a non-climber rose can take 2-3 years before it matures, and a climber rose can take 3-5 years to mature. Roses are not quickies like annuals are.
Kate
I was once yelled at for approaching a truck before it had been inventoried and unloaded at a garden center. I am one step away from sleeping in the car the night before a delivery or a SALE!
My Mardi Gras overwinters fine here, and I have gotten lots of pretty blooms this year. I grow in-container; I'd imagine since she does well in there in my zone, she'd be OK in yours as well.