22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Thanks to all for responding!!
Anthony... The website info on SeaCom does not specify if it is to be used as a foliar spray or added to the roots. Your response would then make me question if the results would make a difference in how it is applied. As a foliar spray, I was considering using it once or twice most. I was looking for the results of more leaves. I should also add that I use RoseTone as a soil fertilizer. I do add alfalfa pellets to the soil every spring to encourage basal breaks.
Henry...OK....so some seaweed can have heavy metals in it...I am using this strictly for roses....no vegetables. But, I also do not use any e.g. pesticides, etc. for fear of hurting my dogs, wildlife, etc. Took soil samples today as a "just in case" I may be low in magnesium.... and am very PROUD that there were many earthworms in the soil. I am relieved to hear from you that your interpretation of what PAN is stating "very little testing has been done". If anyone on this site would have read anything regarding toxicity, it would have been you or michaelg!
Thanks!
Rose
Regarding the use of too much cytokinin. In tissue cultures the cytokinin/auxin ratios are critical. In grown plant applications I could not find any references to problems due to high cytokinin usage. Of course theoretically it is possible (if the plant does not have built in self regulating protections). Does anyone know of any published problems?
If the leaves grew out that way, it is RMV. RMV is more active in cool weather and the leaves that emerge later in warmer weather are less likely to show symptoms.
Although opinions differ, most of us would keep the plant. It takes several years for PJ to amount to anything.
If it is a very large arbor, Nahema and Laguna are strong growing, very fragrant pink climbers with some blackspot resistance. For a normal sized arbor, maybe Heritage, a large shrub that is trainable, nearly thornless, and fragrant. It is susceptible to rust if that is a problem in your climate. Renae is a nice small climber with light fragrance, also not too thorny.
Lavender Lassie is a flush bloomer here. It provides two heavy bloom cycles each year. Once in spring and another in fall. It is not a rose that will have a few blooms on it here and there after the spring flush. Instead, after the spring flush, it puts on lots of new growth and then reblooms heavily in a fall flush once the weather cools down. In a BS heavy region like Seattle, I would go with Jasmina or Laguna instead of Lavender Lassie.
The great thing about having a rose garden is that you can plant whatever you want for whatever reason you want.
If you like orangey-colored HTs, you might want to look at "Liverpool Remembers" - it's really pops in the garden. Aside from its thorniness, it's a nice rose and IMHO a much better one than "Oldtimer". for that color range
Just a little visual of some of the growth on my Fortuniana bushes:
Hot Princess, St. Patrick, and Marlon's Day (sport of Moonstone) showing all the new shoots and stems on plants in small pots for only a month:
This is a pic of a rose recommended to me by Mr. Mills as one of his favorite reds. I have found little to no info out there on it. I believe it is a cross of Moonstone and Cajun Moon, both of which have the same parents, Crystalline and Lynn Anderson. So basically it is an incestuous rose! It is called Carolina Pride. It seems to be behaving as a floribunda or grandiflora as it is putting out a candelabra type flowering stem.
There's a lot of that "candelabra" stuff behind your rose.
When we planted its ancestor, 'Crystalline' here, the huge candelabras (which then wanted to fall over) were one of my main complaints. You could disbud it one day, and when you came back in the morning, it would have pushed up new sidebuds.
THAT tendency will likely remain.
But please don't judge these baby roses. Just grow them, and don't expect perfection from them. They need a year or two to grow up.
Jeri
Pruning won't make it bloomer faster. Let it grow in its new spot (with 6 hours of sun) for a year. Then see how it blooms next year.
As the previous poster said, it may be a climber--another reason to let it grow for a year so you can better determine exactly what you have there.
You should be aware that a non-climber rose can take 2-3 years before it matures, and a climber rose can take 3-5 years to mature. Roses are not quickies like annuals are.
Kate
If it is not caused by herbicide damage, then it is imperative that you carefully dispose of the roses in sealed tight bags. Make sure you get the roots also. If you don't, you endanger your other roses--and your neighbors' roses.
Terrible having to face up to it, isn't it. Happens to most of us, sooner or later, if that is any consolation.
Kate
Maybe Sunset Celebration (Warm Wishes) doesn't like extreme heat--could somebody comment? Mine is not a tremendous bloomer, but it grows well enough and the flowers are very attractive and have good fragrance. Mine was pushing 7' tall until I just now took a couple of feet off with deadheads.
The spots on SC foliage in the picture appear to be cercospora fungus disease. I have a lot of that this rainy summer.
One thing you should understand is that rose blackspot is chronic in all eastern and midwestern gardens. You can't get rid of it by pruning. You have to deal with it in one of the three ways Jim suggests. I use the Bayer Disease Control spray concentrate.
IF this is blackspot (and I still think better images would ensure a correct diagnosis) you have decisions to make.
1. To spray (may/may not correct the problem)
2. To live with the problem
3. To re-plant with roses resistant to that fungus.
If you decide to spray, take time to check out the chemicals you will be using, and be sure you want to add them to your environment.
For every one of the available garden chemicals, there are active ingredients, and these offer greater/lesser degrees of danger. The chemical in Bayer Disease Control is tebuconazole. Information on it follows:
"Tebuconazole is a triazole fungicide used agriculturally to treat plant pathogenic fungi.
Though the U.S. Food and Drug Administration considers this fungicide to be safe for humans, it may still pose a risk. It is listed as a possible carcinogen in the United States Environmental Protection Agency Office of Pesticide Programs carcinogen list with a rating of C (possible carcinogen). Its acute toxicity is moderate.[2] According to the World Health Organization toxicity classification, it is listed as III, which means slightly hazardous."
"Due to the potential for endocrine-disrupting effects, tebuconazole was assessed by the Swedish Chemicals Agency [3] as being potentially removed from the market by EU regulation 1107/2009.[4]"
It is not allowed for sale in New York State.
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If you are going to spray with any garden chemical, DO use a mask and protective clothing. If you can smell the chemical, you are breathing it. If you spill it on your skin, wash it off immediately, and thoroughly.
Jeri
The sun issue is cause we haven't had any....its done nothing but rain. And overcast. And rain....they were all terribly wilted yesterday but we got an inch of rain...sigh....lol. it's supposed to be 90 today and overcast....will keep my fingers crossed.
Oh hello, I'm still here! Since it FINALLY quit raining everyday, the backyard has finally dried out some. I may have been overemphasizing the drainage problem somewhat due to what was going on at the time. I have started layering organic matter all along the back fence to improve the soil there. That is usually my "wettest" spot, so hopefully improving the drainage properties there will help the backyard as a whole. I am going to see how that works first before doing anything really drastic or expensive.
I have already taken the first step and limed with dolomitic lime to increase my pH and improve my magnesium and calcium deficiencies.
Glad things are looking better. But improving the texture of the soil doesn't solve a drainage problem. Where is the water going to go? A bed of fluffy soil surrounded by clay will fill up with water faster than a bed of clay surrounded by clay--unless the bed is raised (or you have an outdoor sump pump :).