22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Happy Birthday Boris and Natasha!
Thanks Diane for the help about the size of the bush. I am going to try to get mine to own root in a 15 gallon can. Fun to get a bareroot after buying bands recently. I loved the old days when the nursery got the Weeks rose shipment in and we sorted them and put them in long rows in the shadehouse.
Hoovb--I just got my Ascot from Palatine too! Along with 8 other roses. They all look to be great plants with parsnip like roots.
Diane--Thanks on the size of Ascot. Helpmefind has it as being 0.0065' to 1" high! I figured it would be a small rose (but not that small!) maybe 2 to 3 feet high. I will be sure to give it plenty of room now.
"The virus used in this study was obtained from naturally
infected plants of Rosa rugosa âÂÂCharles AlbanelâÂÂ."
This is all that I could find in the full paper. It does refer to a 2011 paper:
- Lockhart B, Zlesak D, Fetzer J (2011) Identification and partial characterization of six new viruses of cultivated roses in the USA.
Acta Hortic 901:139��"147
Since the 2011 paper has Jodi Fetzer's of the New York Botanical Garden name as one of the authors, perhaps the sample came from there. Please notice that this is only a "PERHAPS".
"Recently, we described a virus with spherical particles [8] associated with one of several new foliar diseases of rose. The virus was named Rosa rugosa leaf distortion virus (RrLDV) after the typical symptoms associated with infection by this virus. Both the disease and the virus were graft transmitted from diseased to healthy R. rugosa, suggesting that RrLDV is likely the causal agent of the disease (our unpublished results). The objectives of this study were to characterize the RrLDV genome and
determine its taxonomic and phylogenetic relationship to
known viruses."
-------------------------------
H.Kuska comment; I am frustrated that so many of these individual papers offer so little information of usefullness to the average rose grower. Possibly the editors pressure the authors to be as consise as possible.
Dave Zlesak has commented on a future publication that appears to be more consumer orientated.
http://www.rosebreeders.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=54298
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
Understood about the not pruning now. I was planning on spring for maintenance, as this is normally when I prune my roses.
I was just looking at them the other day as was thinking "hmmmm I wonder what to with them this spring." And so, I posted the question.
Thanks for all the replies!
Obviously, now isn't ideal planting time, particularly if the ground is starting to freeze like ours and it's hard to dig the holes. If you have to plant a rose this late in the season, at least it's a bare root that's dormant and hopefully can just stay dormant during the winter. In essence, you're keeping them in the deep cold condition that Palatine had them in before shipping. Mounding some soil around them helps protect the graft, and make sure you plant that graft (the knobby part with the canes growing from it) at least 2-4" below the natural soil level.
In future years, you'll have less hassle if you request that the roses be delivered in spring. Bareroot roses should be planted in whatever is early spring in your zone, as the crocus and early daffodils are blooming, if not before. For me, that's early April or in a good year, late March.
Cynthia
I don't protect anything in the ground any more, Kate. Those are on their own for the winter. The only ones I protect are the pots. They don't have the same root insulation in the pots that the ground ones have so I give them the extra leaf protection.
Although, last winter I had a bunch of seedling pots that I had culled but never actually threw away. As an experiment I let them winter on the side of the house unprotected. Remarkably about half of them survived. Some of them were already in pretty large pots but a few of them were just gallon size pots and they lived. That was both good and bad because then I didn't have the heart to toss them, lol!
OK--difference between in ground and in pots. I get it. Since all my roses are in the ground, I don't have to worry about protecting them--though my HTs aren't overly happy having to play Darwinian survival--but they pop right back after I spring-prune them down to 6-12 in. tall (occasionally even shorter, if needed).
Kate
9ft by 7ft? Wow... do you think you accidentally got a climbing version of Jude? The catalogs list the final size around 4ft... I wonder if others who grow Jude have observed a similar size after a few years?
Given that Jude might reach those enormous sizes I decided to go with Tamora instead, though I have a different spot in mind for which a bigger Jude would be perfect.
I am going to order for the second quadrant:
Old Wollerton Hall
Tamora
Lady of Shallot
Molineux
Thanks so much for all your help!!
Marc
No, this was not a climbing Jude--it doesn't exist as a true climber. It's going on 10 years old, and I don't think Austin even listed "climbers" as that time in its catalog (I could be wrong on that). Your colder climate or other factors might limit Jude's size some in your garden, though. Jude is very upright with stiff canes and has no support structures, so I can't imagine trying to bend those canes to make it conform to a support of some kind. Diane
Thanks for the explanation. What I have learned is a blanket statement can't be made. If you are in zone 5 and just bought a knockout and can possibly can get it in the ground it is probably better there. The thermal mass against temp extremes is better.
While the choice of planting at this time of year, in cold zones, doesn't appeal to some the reality is that if it won't live in the ground it probably will die in a pot, if not heavily protected. So, as many nurseries suggest, if you can get it in the ground do so.
SCG
I purchased for many years (since the early 70s) from Pickering and followed their fall planting instructions. In general it worked out well but sometimes I had problems.
My purchases were normally winter hardy roses that knew how to shut down for the winter. I never had much sucess (fall or spring) with what I call J and P type, Texas, California Dr. Huey budded, big box store, hybrid teas that probably were virused.
You're welcome, Kate, thank you! No "confession" necessary. Congratulations on your retirement. I have the utmost respect for educators and find what's being done to far too many these days through scripted learning, "no child left untested", etc., a genuine sin. I'll dig around for something worthy of double links. Thanks! Kim
They're going dormant. Perfectly natural. Snow is a good thing! It's the best insulator there is. If you can be sure there will be good snow cover all winter and into early spring just leave them alone. If not you can still go ahead and mulch them over the snow that's there now. The object of winter protection is to keep them dormant through the spring when the temps start bobbing up and down. You want them to stay dormant until true spring arrives and there is no more chance of a deep freeze. You will still have some cane die back from the cold and winds but the plant itself should survive and grow back.
I had a soil test done and it showed our soil already was rich in most nutrients so I usually just top dress with wood mulch & cow manure once a year or every other year.
Now I do have slight Nitrogen problems which I correct with some Alfalfa Meal when needed...
So its hard to tell about different soils unless a soil test is done.
Jim, I define good soil as rich dark humus at least one foot deep and eventually up to two feet deep. You can't get this unless you make it and once you do you don't need to make soil tests.