22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
When several of my roses (but NOT my two Double Knock Outs) came down with RRD, I waited until the following early spring to replant in the same spots, but only because I was ordering bareroots which are sent in late March/early April. Whether that 6-9 month wait was needed, I have no idea.
The several cases of RRD did NOT spread to any adjacent roses. In fact, each case happened in a different year and to a rose nearly on the opposite side of the garden.
I think we still do not know enough about this disease to make very many safe generalizations about it.
Kate
It's funny. I've gone thru about 5 plants of ANVIL SPARKS over the yrs. The first one was the best and I had it when we lived down the hill where it was warmer. The subsequent ones all either just died, or sat there at about 2" and never grew and then died. I got two new ones from Burling this spring, and they're both bigger than any of the previous plants. I'm hoping one of them will be ok and grow and produce some nice big fat blooms just like that one that Kathy showed! That's beautiful!!
I've sent Burling many cuttings of many roses over the years (and I gave her a new batch on Sunday when she came down to speak at our auction extravaganza). Don't know if she is propagating from my plant or not, but if she is, then you got a good one. My Anvil Sparks and I get along great for some reason and always have, although I have heard that others have had their problems.
The rose that I've lost and would really LOVE to find again was Sue Lawley. Anyone grow it?
Thanks Seil,
The hole we (not really me) dug is huge, It's probably 30 in. in diameter and also 30 in deep. Better safe than sorry, , , I hope.
As I said, I knew nothing of Falstaff. After researching a bit, it seems the best I can hope for is a rather spindly and stingy with blooms plant. But that's okay. I'll just hide it behind a leafier rose. It's worth it, for the beauty of the bloom..
andrea
Notice: What follows is an uneducated opinion, and therefore not subject to debate, lol. In other words, since I'm presenting it as opinion, I don't have to argue it with ANY of you. It is not presented as fact. If you have issue with any of the specifics, go debate it with a trained geneticist.
Opinion:
Johann demonstrated that the first generation, F1, will demonstrate dominant traits where dominant traits are in either gamete. Overly simplified for summary purposes, yes; however, the point is that F1 should not be where we look for traits or where we make summary conclusions about offspring.
End opinion.
My thanks to Palomar Community College for their page linked below.
Here is a link that might be useful: Mendel's Genetics
A very recent (October 2013) example of scientists utilizing gene silencing to lessen the effect of "a devastating synergistic disease complex" of multiple viruses.
From abstract: "Multiple infections of Sweet potato feathery mottle virus (SPFMV), Sweet potato chlorotic stunt virus (SPCSV), Sweet potato virus G (SPVG) and Sweet potato mild mottle virus (SPMMV) cause a devastating synergistic disease complex of sweet potato (Ipomoea batatas Lam.) in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. In order to address the problem of multiple virus infections and synergism, this study aimed to develop transgenic sweet potato (cv. Blesbok) plants with broad virus resistance. Coat protein gene segments of SPFMV, SPCSV, SPVG and SPMMV were used to induce gene silencing in transgenic sweet potato."
http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11248-013-9759-7
Please note that gene silencing does not cure the plant, it only "Further analyses showed virus presence in the transgenic plants but all exhibited delayed and milder symptoms of leaf discoloration as compared with the untransformed plants."
Here is a link that might be useful: October 2013 link for above
I feel that one of the important contributions that we can make to the successful careers
of our children, grandchildren, nieces, nephews, etc. is to interest them in careers that will benefit society. Unfortunately, high school counselors are rarely "up" on the frontiers of science. With the assumption that you have instilled an interest in gardening, I recommend that you build on that by discussing/ guiding them to articles as to where plant science is "going" during their professional lifetimes. One "ripe" area is to improve the immune systems of food plants.
Perhaps this very recent review will be useful:
"In the battle between diseases and plants -- constant, changing and centuries old -- scientists and farmers usually arm themselves through classical breeding, crossing varieties in the hopes of eventually reaching disease resistance. With advances in DNA sequencing and genetics, however, they may soon have a more sophisticated weapon: disease-resistant seeds.
Basic research on the genetic gears of plant immune systems has advanced so much that scientists can now begin applying that knowledge, building healthier plants to decrease dependence on pesticides, water overuse and help agriculture in developing countries, according to a paper in this week's edition of the journal Science."
The full paper is at:
16 AUGUST 2013 VOL 341 SCIENCE www.sciencemag.org
(Subscription only)
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
This post was edited by henry_kuska on Fri, Nov 22, 13 at 1:11
Thanks y'all!
Tomorrow I am going to the UC gardens. It's the only one mentioned abve that I visited as a student, but I was not an avid rose grower then, so I imagine it will be of more interest to me now. I had been recommended seeing Fivoli in the Spring as opposed to now by a friend who has been multiple times. I don't know anyone who has been to Morcom, but it sounds intriguing and I may try to slip it in Saturday, time willing. I never would've guessed there's a 7 acre rose garden by Lake Merrit, but what do I know?
I WISH I could make it down to San Jose, but that's almost certainly not going to be possible this trip. Ditto as regards the Sacramento Historic Cemetery.
I ended up at the SF Botanical garden today as opposed to Saturday and it was quite impressive. Not a rose garden by any means, but some wonderful types of flora I had not seen before. There was a heavenly smelling Mrs. Oakley Fisher and a very lovely Reve d'Or in bloom there today though.
Jay
I had obtained it soon after it was available (in the 70s) for my northern Ohio garden. It did not give me very many blooms per season. It was not exactly a climber. Each year I thought it had died over the winter but it came back for around 5 years. My garden was no spray. I do not remember much, if any, blackspot, but that was too long ago to be sure. I do not remember any hips or success with its pollen. I wrote it off as another very pretty flower, but a stingy, weak plant. I do not remember virus symptoms; but, because of the date, it probably was virused and that could go a long way in explaining the differences between my experience and those in warmer climates.
The rose in the picture is spent and has dried severely like what happens when there is extreme heat. It appears also to be stunted also possibly indicating great heat. Here in SoCal I had some roses that fried sort of like this on 100 degree days when no matter how much they were watered it wasn't enough. Again, I attribute this to the poor soil which I haven't been able to amend nearly enough and the root systems that were not developed enough.
The rose is fried. I get fried and crispy here every year July through Aug. Sept they start to return back to nice looking roses, when it gets below 90. This happens to all of 35 of them including the climbers. The roses get plenty of water & fert and all are about 8 years old, but it doesn't seem to matter. Scorching hot is not good for the blooms, that's about it.
Luckily my land is not THAT far; it's about a 30-to-40 minute drive from home (I don't drive fast, btw, and in any case, on snaky hilly roads,one sort of has to go slow...)I can keep tools there, in this big ,ugly metal construction built by the previous owner,but I wind up keeping the most-used ones in my car a lot of the time.Sadly, I have no place to stay over there, and in any case my DH and son have different enthusiasms!
By mounding I mean the concept of protecting a newly -plante bare-root rose with a mound of material around it's base, placed so that only the tips of the canes stick out. Usually people say to use soil for this, so picture a mound of soil covering the graft union and the lower parts of the baby canes.So, it's like a mulch, protecting the roots a bit, but it's also protecting the canes.Now, for some reason, in my garden, I have had trouble with canes rotting under the mounds: well, to be honest, this only really happened that one year that I mentioned in my first post. Someone suggested using manure/organic matter as the mounding material (I believe it was a lady in New England, USA) Well, for me, this was a disaster. I lost so many baby roses that year; they got canker or just plain rot that spread down to the graft... This really spooked me. Last fall, I tried using peat moss, thinking it would be less prone to bacteria, but again got spooked, seeing how uber-soggy it became under the mounds.So, I un-mounded all of the babies, and re-mounded them , using a mixture of wine corks, pieces of styrofoam,held in place by gravel and sand.This worked. Clearly, it's important in my garden to keep the canes fairly dry and the roots moist.I say, IN MY GARDEN, because from various rose forums, I see that for many-most?-people, this cane-rot stuff has never been a problem! I suspect it may have something to do with the climate here. I think that it's not just low temperatures that come into play.Here in Italy, we can get some wild temperature fluxes, even from day to night, just because, when the sun comes out, it can be so hot. Now, in November, it's so low to the horizon, and besides, it's been raining so much,so it's a very stable environment for newly plante roses.But our winters can offer some dramatic temperature swings. To give an idea, last winter, we had some very heavy snow; at least a foot deep. During the days after it had fallen, the sun came out, and I remember shoveling deep snow,sweating heavily, wearing boots, snow pants (because of the wet, cold snow), and only a shirt on top! But then, the sun goes down,the temperature plunges,all the stuff that melted under the hot (relatively speaking) sun freezes into ice,and then can't really start melting again until the afternoon of the following day.Do you see where I'm going with this? My land, exposed to the south-west, is going to get quite warmed up during a sunny but cold winter day, and then freeze during the night. The road that I have to travel-facing north-could remain un-passable by me for a couple of days-or more, considering the extremes we've been having in weather in recent years.Instead, I think England tends to have a more consistent climate,; I don't think you'd have the same toasty-sun issues there that we have here in Italy. As you yourself say, Campanula, "everything shuts down into a hibernating limbo". Here, it often doesn't! I still have flowers;many roses still have leaves,most of them have the little leaf buds on them...my Okame cherry tree actually RE-BLOOMED. So, it's very confusing as to what the best course might be...which is why I started this thread in the first place.Discussing things can help clarify ones ideas,and I'm grateful to you and all forum members who participate. regards, bart
Your roses do not need to be protected against cold, unless basal shoots appear at an inappropriate time. Remove the new growth buds as I suggested above.
Your roses do not need to be protected against moisture loss as long as it is cool, damp, and cloudy, but you can protect against moisture loss by applying an anti-transpirant at dormant strength at a time when it will dry quickly, as I suggested above.
There is no need to mound in your situation.
Michael, the article is located near the bottom of the web page--not much more than is shown above, however.
Kate
Page 2
"Armillaria is fairly easy to diagnose on a tree or shrub when the bark can be separated from the trunk and inspected for the flattened, whitish mycelial growth. This might be a bit more difficult to accomplish given the slender stems and thin bark of roses, but certainly not impossible. Oftentimes the best approach is to submit a complete sample to the PDIC through your local Extension office. If in fact a tree or shrub in your landscape is infected with armillaria, the best course of action will be to remove as much of the trunk and roots as possible, and for a couple of years replant the site with annuals, perennials, grasses or other non-woody plants.
The viral disease rose rosette was also a topic of conversation at the training session. This is considered to be an emerging and fairly serious disease, with variable symptoms that can be tough to diagnose in the field. An excessive number of thorns along the stems should make you suspicious of rose rosette, but as with armillaria a sample to the PDIC might be the best way to confirm.
Tom Glasgow is the Craven County Extension director. Contact him "