22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
thank you, it does look like wachurana, except it has fewer blooms. I am not sure if it reblooms - it just finished now. i'll keep a look-out. I took a few cuttings and will try to root them. seems it's a rambler - so can it be trained/tied to a fence? would it spread at the same pace or slower?
here's a pic, showing more faded blooms and some clusters. can it be grown in a container by any chance? what size would be suitable, knowing that it spreads a lot. of course, I'll prune it and keep it small.
can it be overwintered in a pot on a terrace?
r. wichurana poteriifolia. It does repeat some, but sporadically. I don't think it would be happy in a pot--most roses aren't and this one wants a lot of space. It gets very long runners, which will root themselves. Best as a ground cover, good for slopes or an place you don't want walked on.
farmerduck: I have tried Milorganite and blood meal.
The only thing that has worked is cages. I had anchored them in 4 places and it was a pain to unhook them to tend to the roses. I found out that the weight of the cage is enough to deter the deer so they are a lot easier to manage. I just made a smaller cage for buff beauty and cut down the high side to account for the slope. Any growth over 3.5 feet is left alone by the deer. Climbers would be ideal.
I've had the best luck in the late summer/ fall. However, then you have to find a place to store your roses until spring. I kept mine under lights.
If anyone wants to trade rooted cuttings, let me know! I like multi colored, striped, and old English type roses.
It depends totally on your chosen gardening style. Some gardeners like their roses to have enough room to be separate, neat, tidy, surrounded only by mulch, and not touch other roses. Others (I am one of these) like the lush look of roses intermingling.
I have so many roses and so not enough sun in my garden that I would plant a climber on your fence in an instant - closer to the fence, and to the right of your AD. You can train it horizontally along the fence once it gets going. Re depth, you can sort of espalier it on the fence and keep it very shallow. I have a climbing tea (which are famous for spreading out) rose which I have done this with. It is growing up the wall of our house in a rectangular bed that is only 8 inches deep, alongside of our narrow driveway. So, I have had to keep it out of the driveway. It had to fit between the wall of the house and the driveway, until it got 10 feet tall, after which there was a little more room. It is now over 10 years old, over 12 feet high, 7 feet wide, and only about 12 inches deep. Very happy and blooms all of the time. So, I agree with catsrose - go for it!
Jackie
I live in east Texas, 2 hours from Houston. After spotting this bug at night while I was outside near some lights, I found that the June Bug, which is common in our area this time of year, was the culprit who had been chewing on my roses. I use an insecticidal soap spray, cant recall who makes it, but you can get it at Walmart, Lowes. Spray on buds, leaves - this should stop whatever is chewing. As for wilt, the above posts are correct. If you have just planted your roses, they may exhibit wilt for a few days - just keep them well watered - and make sure you didnt plant in a hole that retains water - this can make them wilt. I read on the forum that it is really good to disbud for awhile, let the roses work on growing roots, not blooming. I now disbud all my newly planted roses for a couple of months. Maybe even prune them back a bit so less plant to have to keep moist. I usually prune my roses back a bit before planting. Also, just the heat itself might make them wilt until they get established. Just give them some time, they will probably be fine. Good luck!
Judith
Do you have any more pictures of that rambler?
I have been growing Mutabilis for years now. It's in a large pot and I bring it inside for the winter. It blooms even then. For one or two years I had it in the ground, left out for the winter. But each spring it had to start all over again. So far,!the way I'm doing it now seems to work.
You have some beautiful roses.
kind of thought they had died because they were covered in the naked lady foliage for months.
That reminds me, my neighbor has a lot of Amaryllis belladonna in front of her kitchen window, and she said the other day the first one bloomed. As her husband walked into the kitchen she said, "Hey, look there's a naked lady!". Her husband nearly fell over running to the window.
He wasn't expecting to see a plant.
Hoovb
My friends from a favorite online chat (not a hook-up chat but a hobby/profession) used to enjoy my the sharing of the link to a photo of a "Neked Lady" to the trolling guys that would pop in and looking naughty photos.
FYI, the yard is full of Naked Ladies right now...hehe
Or, if you are in a mild climate zone, you might plant the bush form of 'Mlle. Cecile Brunner,' or perhaps 'Perle d'Or.' Closely-related, both "Poly-Teas," these "sweetheart" type roses,with their clusters of small, sweet, pink or apricot blooms, were commonly planted to mark the resting places of very young children, or infants.
Jeri
This is pretty interesting.
Rose gardeners often say that "Sun on the bud union promoters basal breaks." I've long suspected this was a superstition. However, the researchers found that strong light on growth-bud sites encourages buds to break from canes, so that might apply to grafts as well. This effect might also explain some of the benefits of traditional pruning practices, such as removing old canes at the base and opening the center of the plant.
Another finding: "Budbreak was subject to correlative inhibition exerted by other shoots on the plant." Does this mean that stem A is less likely to break growth buds if stem B is not deadheaded? (See the current thread on "roses getting pregranat). Or does it mean that new shoots on stem B inhibit bud break on stem A?
I cannot link to the full paper (I think it is too new). The link below is to a report.
Other reports are reached from the Google link below.
Here is a link that might be useful: link to Google hits
With me I think it's Bewitched. I've grown it for years and why I planted 2 more, I'm not sure. The one that I've had for a long time bloomed in the spring and has just sat there all summer, no indication that it's going to bloom again, frustrating. But it does put on the most perfect, fragrant flowers when it does decide to bloom.
Some roses will resent it if you just whack them off and will sulk a while before starting to regrow. Others don't care much and will continue blooming happily a long. But if they're really over grown that much I'd say just go for it and take them down to where ever you need them to be. If you're going to do that though in your zone you need to do that now! You don't want to be cutting them way back just before winter sets in. If you do it now they should still have time to give you a fall flush.
On large, bushy plants with many spent blooms, I use a hedge clipper to deadhead and don't worry about where the cut falls. I have been doing this for many years with no problems.
On other roses, if they are too small, I just snap off the blooms. If they are too tall, I take 1-3' of stem and cut just above a leaf. As Seil says, do that deep deadheading in summer rather than near the end of the growing season.
'Sunsprite' does well for me here...overwinters just fine without any winter protection at all. It's much, much smaller than 'Julia Child'.
BTW, I grow several roses in a raised bed that is about 4' off the ground and they do just fine. It's gotten to -20F here before for several days and while I may lose cane, they are crown hardy...which is what is important.
I agree with TerryJean - Sunsprite is reliably hardy and healthy for me, and I think the hmf rating of 5b is a minimum. It should handle a raised bed in your zone with no problems. This is a Kordes rose and it tends to laugh off most winters. It's also a better bet to fit in those tight spaces than Julia Child, lovely as she is. Sunsprite blooms right next to my mailbox and doesn't grow any higher, and stays within a 1.5 or 2' radius, upright and compact.
Cynthia
It sounds to me like you are worrying about the wrong things. Clay is good for roses. It holds water and nutrients. PH is only a problem if you want to grow multiflora hybrids or roses grafted onto multiflora. Then you do need to drop the pH so it is acidic. It is much easier just to avoid those roses, particularly at first.
Unless you are planting specimen shrubs, like R. hugonis, don't dig and amend holes, but dig and amend beds. It is a lot more work up front, but once done, it is done. Amend the beds with whatever organic matter you can get easily and/or cheaply. Unless you raise animals, don't expect enough of it to come from your property. Any aged manure or compost is fine. I usually dig down about 1 ft, and add an inch or two of manure, the mix it up.
Get your samples from a spot not amended. That way you have a base mark to go on. It wouldn't hurt to sample the amended area too!
An organic is anything that has to rot to breakdown. Chopped leaves are free and real good. I use the bark mulch I get from a tree company. Horse manure is good if it's aged.
Start with you soil sample and we'll go from there