22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I live in east Texas, 2 hours from Houston. After spotting this bug at night while I was outside near some lights, I found that the June Bug, which is common in our area this time of year, was the culprit who had been chewing on my roses. I use an insecticidal soap spray, cant recall who makes it, but you can get it at Walmart, Lowes. Spray on buds, leaves - this should stop whatever is chewing. As for wilt, the above posts are correct. If you have just planted your roses, they may exhibit wilt for a few days - just keep them well watered - and make sure you didnt plant in a hole that retains water - this can make them wilt. I read on the forum that it is really good to disbud for awhile, let the roses work on growing roots, not blooming. I now disbud all my newly planted roses for a couple of months. Maybe even prune them back a bit so less plant to have to keep moist. I usually prune my roses back a bit before planting. Also, just the heat itself might make them wilt until they get established. Just give them some time, they will probably be fine. Good luck!
Judith
Do you have any more pictures of that rambler?
I have been growing Mutabilis for years now. It's in a large pot and I bring it inside for the winter. It blooms even then. For one or two years I had it in the ground, left out for the winter. But each spring it had to start all over again. So far,!the way I'm doing it now seems to work.
You have some beautiful roses.
kind of thought they had died because they were covered in the naked lady foliage for months.
That reminds me, my neighbor has a lot of Amaryllis belladonna in front of her kitchen window, and she said the other day the first one bloomed. As her husband walked into the kitchen she said, "Hey, look there's a naked lady!". Her husband nearly fell over running to the window.
He wasn't expecting to see a plant.
Hoovb
My friends from a favorite online chat (not a hook-up chat but a hobby/profession) used to enjoy my the sharing of the link to a photo of a "Neked Lady" to the trolling guys that would pop in and looking naughty photos.
FYI, the yard is full of Naked Ladies right now...hehe
Or, if you are in a mild climate zone, you might plant the bush form of 'Mlle. Cecile Brunner,' or perhaps 'Perle d'Or.' Closely-related, both "Poly-Teas," these "sweetheart" type roses,with their clusters of small, sweet, pink or apricot blooms, were commonly planted to mark the resting places of very young children, or infants.
Jeri
This is pretty interesting.
Rose gardeners often say that "Sun on the bud union promoters basal breaks." I've long suspected this was a superstition. However, the researchers found that strong light on growth-bud sites encourages buds to break from canes, so that might apply to grafts as well. This effect might also explain some of the benefits of traditional pruning practices, such as removing old canes at the base and opening the center of the plant.
Another finding: "Budbreak was subject to correlative inhibition exerted by other shoots on the plant." Does this mean that stem A is less likely to break growth buds if stem B is not deadheaded? (See the current thread on "roses getting pregranat). Or does it mean that new shoots on stem B inhibit bud break on stem A?
I cannot link to the full paper (I think it is too new). The link below is to a report.
Other reports are reached from the Google link below.
Here is a link that might be useful: link to Google hits
With me I think it's Bewitched. I've grown it for years and why I planted 2 more, I'm not sure. The one that I've had for a long time bloomed in the spring and has just sat there all summer, no indication that it's going to bloom again, frustrating. But it does put on the most perfect, fragrant flowers when it does decide to bloom.
Some roses will resent it if you just whack them off and will sulk a while before starting to regrow. Others don't care much and will continue blooming happily a long. But if they're really over grown that much I'd say just go for it and take them down to where ever you need them to be. If you're going to do that though in your zone you need to do that now! You don't want to be cutting them way back just before winter sets in. If you do it now they should still have time to give you a fall flush.
On large, bushy plants with many spent blooms, I use a hedge clipper to deadhead and don't worry about where the cut falls. I have been doing this for many years with no problems.
On other roses, if they are too small, I just snap off the blooms. If they are too tall, I take 1-3' of stem and cut just above a leaf. As Seil says, do that deep deadheading in summer rather than near the end of the growing season.
'Sunsprite' does well for me here...overwinters just fine without any winter protection at all. It's much, much smaller than 'Julia Child'.
BTW, I grow several roses in a raised bed that is about 4' off the ground and they do just fine. It's gotten to -20F here before for several days and while I may lose cane, they are crown hardy...which is what is important.
I agree with TerryJean - Sunsprite is reliably hardy and healthy for me, and I think the hmf rating of 5b is a minimum. It should handle a raised bed in your zone with no problems. This is a Kordes rose and it tends to laugh off most winters. It's also a better bet to fit in those tight spaces than Julia Child, lovely as she is. Sunsprite blooms right next to my mailbox and doesn't grow any higher, and stays within a 1.5 or 2' radius, upright and compact.
Cynthia
Yes I know hacking roses in the fall or early winter is not correct... I personally do mine in the Spring which I think is best...
But I will not fault someone else for doing things differently when they are still getting good results whether right or wrong...
Try telling someone that's getting good results there way is wrong...lol... Not me...lol
This post was edited by jim1961 on Thu, Jul 25, 13 at 23:23
Let me explain exactly why we get better results by not pruning in the fall (referring to heavy pruning of canes as opposed to just removing spent flowers).
1. All stem tissue contains stored nutrients.
2. When new growth comes, it will come at the highest point of the still-living part of stems.
3. Repeat-blooming roses such as hybrid teas, being naturally evergreen, can make premature new growth when warm spells occur in winter and early spring. This growth will freeze, wasting the stored energy spent on growing out and providing opportunity for canker fungus to attack the underlying cane.
4. If the rose has not been pruned, this wasted new growth will have been partly "funded" by nutrients stored in the upper part of the canes, nutrients that would have been thrown away if the rose had been pruned in fall.
5. If the rose was pruned severely in fall, premature growth will have to develop at the base of the plant, drawing on the core energy store in the crown, roots, and fat lower canes. Cankers that might develop at the base of the plant would be more damaging than those developing higher up.
6. In some circumstances, pruning cuts made in late fall can be directly invaded by canker fungi. One year I experimented with topping the plants in late November, and almost every cane was infected by botrytis canker. I think this happens because the plant's immune system is less active during dormancy.
Racin, yes please let us know if it works for you! I would love to use a product like that if it helps.
I DO overhead water about 1/2 the time so the sprays don't last long.
Bayer granules worked okay, but still had probs w/ mites (terrible little beasts!)
frenchcuffs.........
If you want to control mites, it's incredibly easy. Just wash your roses every other day with just water. If a rose has a serious infestation, wash it three days in a row and you will break the breeding cycle. With over 100 roses on 4 levels, I don't have mite infestations and it only takes me about 15 minutes to wash all of the roses in the garden.
Of course, I am not into exhibiting roses, so my goal is just to have healthy roses in the garden.
Smiles,
Lyn
I couldn't get the link to open, but got there by going to the portal and using rose rosette to search (as New York has been very quiet about RRD).
Is it worth trying to straighten out some of this?
Anyway:
The RRD vector is not the same mite as the one that causes leaf curl; Jim Amrine has tested and the one that lives on the edges of leaves is different ,although related.
Transmission by pruners has never been proven in scientific tests.
It takes longer than two years for RRD to kill a mature rose bush and longer than that for a mature R. multiflora to die.
300 feet removal of R. multiflora is nowhere near far enough.
Author ignores the factors of wind directions.
Author ignores that some roses can be saved with early action.
Author makes no sense in the comment that Henry glomed onto. How in the heck can one check out rootstock for RRD? No way.
At least now we know some additional parts of New York State that need to worry and parts of New England down wind from them
It takes longer than two years for RRD to kill a mature rose bush and longer than that for a mature R. multiflora to die.
I am seriously beginning to wonder about this one, at least around here.
Last summer was the first time I saw RRD on the wild roadside multiflora. It seemed to be coming from the north, Albany, rather than the south, NJ. This year, the only RRD I've seen has been on two cultivated bushes, both hybrid wichurana types. Maybe it is too early in the season, but at this point in time it really looks like all of last year's infected canes died. And this was not after what I would call a 'real' winter. It has a couple of weeks to put in a reappearance because we are running out of summer.
It depends totally on your chosen gardening style. Some gardeners like their roses to have enough room to be separate, neat, tidy, surrounded only by mulch, and not touch other roses. Others (I am one of these) like the lush look of roses intermingling.
I have so many roses and so not enough sun in my garden that I would plant a climber on your fence in an instant - closer to the fence, and to the right of your AD. You can train it horizontally along the fence once it gets going. Re depth, you can sort of espalier it on the fence and keep it very shallow. I have a climbing tea (which are famous for spreading out) rose which I have done this with. It is growing up the wall of our house in a rectangular bed that is only 8 inches deep, alongside of our narrow driveway. So, I have had to keep it out of the driveway. It had to fit between the wall of the house and the driveway, until it got 10 feet tall, after which there was a little more room. It is now over 10 years old, over 12 feet high, 7 feet wide, and only about 12 inches deep. Very happy and blooms all of the time. So, I agree with catsrose - go for it!
Jackie
If you're growing Abe as a bush and you keep the Could 10 well trellised I think it would work out fine. Sometimes climbers tend to get those bare bottoms anyway and Abe would cover that up nicely.