21,401 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Dont have Eden. I grew Benjamin Britten a long time ago - I think it needed more sun - grew octopus arms and didnt bloom that much - dug it up and potted it, it must have died and I didnt replace it. I have tried 2 Alister Stella Grays - they were both teeny tiny plants and didnt thrive, but I hope to get a bigger plant and try it - heard good things. I have a Crown Princess Margareta - ordere last year, potted for awhile, planted in the fall. Its growing well, am seeing a couple of blooms. So far....I like it.
Re Austins - new for me this year are England's Rose - it was a new bareroot and just simply covered with pretty candy pink blooms! Wollerton Old Hall hasnt bloomed yet but covered in healthy buds and lots of them. Fighting Temerarie is just starting to open - lovely apricot - very healthy. Abe Darby is a real favorite, got another of those this year - covered in buds. Darcey Bussell just started blooming - lovely! Princess Alexandra of Kent has alot of buds - bush isnt as big as Wollerton Old Hall, Fighting Temerarie, Darcey Bussell or Abe Darby, but healthy and coming on. Princess Anne is growing well, no buds yet.
I love the noisettes - ordered a bunch of rare ones from Vintage Gardens - looking forward to getting them to big plants in pots then planting them in the ground - preserving these that wont be available after the Vintage closing.
There are so many roses that do well in Texas [be sure and mulch well during heat of summer!] that you shouldnt have a problem finding more than you have room to plant. I have a huge pot ghetto.......and have plans for about 5 more raised beds to hold more. Have fun!!
Judith

Your thought about evergreens helping with the winter bleakness was a good one, but I think you should choose shrubs that stay small and don't start an argument with the roses. You can then fill in with Rozanne or whatever. A couple of ideas for dwarf flowering evergreens would be rosemary (prefers neutral soil) and heather (prefers acid soil). OK for zone 7.

Kanuk,
It is entirely feasible to do this with Rugosa's and other hardy roses. I do it all the time and currently have standards of Henry Hudson, Cinderella Fairytale, Morden Snowbeauty and Cuthbert Grant.
I would suggest you prune back some of the longer branching growth to 2 or 3 bud eyes however after transplant. And you will need to break off any emerging buds from the main cane (trunk) of the tree rose or prune any new growth it sends up from the graft or roots. Speaking of which, it is a lot easier to make tree roses from grafted rugosa's than own-root, only because it can be difficult to prevent additional root suckering from some varieties. In any case, best of luck with this, it should work out well.

To follow up I've decided that this one roque stem shooting up has become a prime candidate for 'pegging'.
About 4 days ago it came over me to 'peg' this cane in a low, horizontal arch away from the centre of the plant to the ground.
The cane was pliable enough to accomplish this without any fear of the cane breaking.
From what I've read & seen online this should induce more flowers along the length of this cane... and who could ever have too many RDLH roses to enjoy.
I'll hope for the best & let you know how this works out as the season progresses.
If anyone has pegging experience I'd love to hear about it. Was it successful? Best method of attachment/pegs etc?
KanuK

Thanks for nice compliments from both of you.
This is a chicago peace. I also have the yellow/white peace climmers on a split rail fence.
These hands are not young, they collect a SS check every month. I wear thick leather gloves EVERY time I walk out to work in the yard, which is everyday. Gardening is a passion of mine.


Steve,
If the deer leave your lemon tree alone, why not try putting cut lemons among your roses' canes? Or buying some lemon oil and applying that to the roses instead of smelly Liquid Fence? Who knows--it might work. I sure hope it does. Diane

Thanks, Strawberry. I love mint, but it's too hot and arid here for it to grow, except for well watered pots. There are ACRES of ivy used on over irrigated hill sides which foster them. There are ACRES of wild vegetation which is county/city/state owned and NEVER maintained which foster them. There are many citrus and other fruit trees all over which foster them. They're like the gophers and moles which inhabit these mountains. EVERYWHERE. My best tactic is to trap them close to the house and make them "finally useful" under some deserving rose bush.
Think twice about the terrors, Harmony. "The Stalker", who stalks ME everywhere I go, is also the "Great White Hunter". She proved it this morning by snagging the baby Towhee before I could stop her. I guess to "punish me" for taking it away from her, she then snagged the Chihuahua "evidence" before I could pick it up. She's feeling quite satisfied with herself right now. Of course, she wants to snuggle, but it's still a bit too creepy for me to think of that at the moment. I know, I'm a wuss! If anyone finds the information about how much and how often to feed them the tenderizer, please share. I'd love to stop this practice with them both, but at 6 and 8 pounds, I'm rather concerned about giving them anything which might cause any issues. They're small enough to over dose too easily.
Keep moving the trap around, Harmony. Once I no longer get any action in one spot, I put it a few yards away and fry another one. Dang! I keep this up and I may never have to buy any fertilizer again! Kim

Just sprinkle a light dusting of it on their food. It does help.
Yeah -- Isn't it a shame about Mint? I have tried and tried to grow it, but it always turns up its toes and dies. Same thing here with violets which are likewise invasive elsewhere.
No, the only things that are invasive here are Morning Glory, Passion Vine, and Bermuda Grass. I guess prickly pear cactus would be, but I'm not giving it the opportunity. (We DID manage to kill the ivy. Thank God.)
Jeri

The following was stated in the Q and A of the first conference:
"We found that all grafts onto multiflora rose after about the 10th of June, were negative for transmission of the virus. Something happens to stem tissue that prevents grafts from being successful after mid-June."
H.Kuska comment: was this discussed at the second conference? Also,It is my understanding that the grafts formed, but no virus was transferred. It that a correct understanding?
Here is a link that might be useful: link for Q and A

Well, if it's a hundred KOs planted in the median strip, the correct advice is clearly to remove symptomatic plants. If it's a particularly valuable plant, newly symptomatic, in a garden where it will be inspected very frequently, the correct advice is to try and save it. Then there would be tweeners.

The following was stated: "Well, if it's a hundred KOs planted in the median strip, the correct advice is clearly to remove symptomatic plants."
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H.Kuska comment. For me the above is not "clearly" at all. I would recommend first checking if the city used a herbicide on the median strip.
If the investment is as large as a 100 KOs, one could send off a sample for a PCR test.
"Our prices are subject to change, but our current fee is $25 per sample for RRV testing."
Here is a link that might be useful: link for testing (scroll down)

Personally I think you should since you bought it directly from them. They should be held responsible for the quality of their products. As buyers, we allow them to continue the practice of using infected rootstock.
If I was not getting the recent rose as an exchange, I would not have purposely purchased it. But from walking a variety of rose fields, I see a lot of zigs and zags out there.

I agree with Seil, and I agree with Kippy. The virus is out there. It is ubiquitous. In my mild climate, it is not a death sentence for the rose (I have roses planted in 1987 which I KNOW to be virused, and which are still corking right along. I know of old plants of Ragged Robin rootstock, which are virused, and which are probably close to a century old. Doing fine.
Would I ask Austin (or any grower) for a refund?
Sure -- Why not?
I'm pretty sure a replacement PLANT would also be virused, no matter where you bought it. Still, it doesn't hurt to put them on notice that we are aware of the fact that they are selling defective merchandise.
Below, a bloom on our oldest (yes, virused) 'Sombreuil,Cl.' -- planted in 1987.
Jeri


Thank you, Henry, for helping us to understand the research and abstract. I like what you posted:
2) The microorganism must be isolated from a diseased organism and grown in pure culture." ... they comment about why they could not meet this postulate.
"3) The cultured microorganism should cause disease when introduced into a healthy organism." .... They were not successful with graft transmission tests.

Ah - Kathy, your photo so perfectly depicts the beautiful foliage of Ingrid (as well as her gorgeous blooms of course). I'm so bloom focused I don't normally notice foliage, but Ingrid's is just so perfect it's hard not to notice (in our Zone 9 of course, and not wanting to speak to any other zones).

Thank you! We are quite rainy at the moment, but I will look for spider mites when the rain is over.

I do not have a terrific camera and will try for a better picture when the rain passes- but hopefully you can see the dark area on the left leaf toward the tip.
These markings are only on the leaves at the bottom of the shrub. I had clipped the curled leaves before taking this picture, and will watch for any more to develop. Hopefully this is nothing-- I think I'm just antsy since it's my first David Austin!
Thank you again for any suggestions or advice.






I agree with ingrid, not BD
Yes, it could well be Ivor's rose although it is hard to be definite from one pic - however, I think you can be assured it is NOT BD.