22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Racin, yes please let us know if it works for you! I would love to use a product like that if it helps.
I DO overhead water about 1/2 the time so the sprays don't last long.
Bayer granules worked okay, but still had probs w/ mites (terrible little beasts!)
frenchcuffs.........
If you want to control mites, it's incredibly easy. Just wash your roses every other day with just water. If a rose has a serious infestation, wash it three days in a row and you will break the breeding cycle. With over 100 roses on 4 levels, I don't have mite infestations and it only takes me about 15 minutes to wash all of the roses in the garden.
Of course, I am not into exhibiting roses, so my goal is just to have healthy roses in the garden.
Smiles,
Lyn
I couldn't get the link to open, but got there by going to the portal and using rose rosette to search (as New York has been very quiet about RRD).
Is it worth trying to straighten out some of this?
Anyway:
The RRD vector is not the same mite as the one that causes leaf curl; Jim Amrine has tested and the one that lives on the edges of leaves is different ,although related.
Transmission by pruners has never been proven in scientific tests.
It takes longer than two years for RRD to kill a mature rose bush and longer than that for a mature R. multiflora to die.
300 feet removal of R. multiflora is nowhere near far enough.
Author ignores the factors of wind directions.
Author ignores that some roses can be saved with early action.
Author makes no sense in the comment that Henry glomed onto. How in the heck can one check out rootstock for RRD? No way.
At least now we know some additional parts of New York State that need to worry and parts of New England down wind from them
It takes longer than two years for RRD to kill a mature rose bush and longer than that for a mature R. multiflora to die.
I am seriously beginning to wonder about this one, at least around here.
Last summer was the first time I saw RRD on the wild roadside multiflora. It seemed to be coming from the north, Albany, rather than the south, NJ. This year, the only RRD I've seen has been on two cultivated bushes, both hybrid wichurana types. Maybe it is too early in the season, but at this point in time it really looks like all of last year's infected canes died. And this was not after what I would call a 'real' winter. It has a couple of weeks to put in a reappearance because we are running out of summer.
Crimson Glory was another that my mother had!! Thanks. Haven't seen that one in years. Maybe that's the wonderfully pungent rose that I remember. I will find it and plant it.
p.s. It's nice to know that someone on this forum remembers the fifties..
andrea
In the 50's hybrid teas reigned supreme, valued for the large flower and high pointed center of the petal formation. The half open bud as it unfolds is still the picture of the ideal rose. Lots of these old favorites are still for sale every year. Might be the best place to start searching ;-)
Floribundas were very popular too, but they usually aren't very fragrant (there are a few exceptions). In those days some of the Pernetiana roses were still common, understandebly since they are the origin of the yellow and orange colours in modern roses. Some of them are very fragrant too. Today these are grouped with the hybrid teas, and some are still available.
Best of luck ;-)
This post was edited by taoseeker on Fri, Jul 26, 13 at 6:32
Two things to immediately reduce moisture loss:
1. Shade. Do it right now. Outdoor chairs are handy for shading.
2. Reduce foliar area. Do it right now. It is the leaves, not the canes, that lose water. I would start at the top of the canes and remove about half of the leaves. If the other leaves haven't unwilted by morning, take off some more.
It's easy to transplant roses when they are dormant, but much harder in the heat of summer.
Keep them well watered but be careful not to drown them either. Too much water can be as bad as too little. Shade and leaf removal will help keep them from wilting so much. Be patient. I've moved a lot of roses in the heat of summer and they do survive if you give them time to adjust. Do not fertilize them until you see good new growth on them. That will tell you that they've replaced their lost roots and are ready to be fed.
Try 'Prairie Star' a Griffith J Buck shrub rose. Has a strong apple fragrance and holds up well to rain with some red spotting of the petals. It holds up well in dry conditions also. It is, like all white or light colored blooms, Japanese Beatle attractor if you are affected by them. It will last a long time after cut and in a vase and with debudding produces a nice flower. It is a constant bloomer and will produce flowers on a nice long stem with disbudding.
I also have found success with HT Pascali.
My first JG was grafted onto multiflora rootstock and became just what it was supposed to be : large and vase shaped and loaded with blooms.
It was simply wonderful and darned near broke my heart when it got RRD.
But I waited, and left the land fallow for two years and then replanted it, because it belongs where I'd chosen to plant it. And I will keep replanting it there if this replacement gets RRD, because it's that great a rose.
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Some Hybrid Teas - and to a lesser extent some floribundas - mutate ("sport" in rose parlance) into climbing forms. If these mutations turn out to be stable, they can be commercially produced. Not all varieties do this, of course, because it is dependent on the genetics of the original.
Climbing HTs and climbing floribundas have the same bloom,as the bush form . The major differences are, (1)the relatively longer canes on the climbing forms, and (2) that the blooms tend to appear on laterals rather than only at the terminals. Generally speaking, they tend to not bloom as profusely as the bush forms - although there are some exceptions. It is these characteristics, rather than the width of the plant, which differentiate the climbing form from the bush form.
"Tiffany" has a climbing form that is still in commercial production. Looking at your photo, I would say that is what you have.
The bush form of 'Tiffany' is tall and capable of producing basal canes up to about six feet long. I haven't seen the climbing sport, but a rough definition of "climber" is that it produces basal shoots > 7'. So the OP can tell which form he has by checking the unbroken length of basal shoots (that is, not counting laterals that came out at leaf joints after pruning or deadheading).
I have a friend who is an excellent gardener and she is a big believer in pruning almost every plant. I have started pruning back alot of things, even cutting blooms off annuals I buy - this takes the stress out of blooming and the plants can make roots - then bloom. It works great.
I have Knockouts, including the yellows which I love. I do prune them back and they just keep blooming. It neatens them up - I also disbud regularly. Dont give up on your roses. They are wonderful with the perennials you describe. Buy a Belinda's Dream if you can find one - totally disease free and blooms constantly. Find some composted manure [I raise horses so have lots], put on alfalfa pellets, cottonseed meal, use Miracle Gro and fish emulsion fertilizer........I have a Graham Thomas rose that has frustrated me with no blooms. A rose nursery told me to fertilize it with Carl Pool BR-61 - sure enough, it started blooming. Dont whack your roses back too much, maybe a third. Keep them watered then watch the new growth come on. It is amazing what roses will do when fertilized. I once read - roses are hogs - feed em. Roses make such a lovely addition to other annuals and perennials - I will bet with some pruning, watering and fertilizing, you will see good results. Be sure and water before you fertilize. Good luck!
Judith
Hi forensicmom: There's a thread in the Antique Roses Forum on the same topic, see link below. Good luck, I hope it helps.
Here is a link that might be useful: Japanese Beetles thread
Hey Forensic Mom, aren't you in the DC area? I'm in northern VA along the I-95 corridor. My JBs are just about done for the year. The beetle bag went into the trash on Monday and I'm just catching a few strays in soapy water. Hang in there!
I wouldn't cut back anything, just water deeply since we haven't had much rain lately.
I know of many people who have done what you describe with not problems. Not with teas, mind you, but just the same I don't think it will hurt them at all. I move my roses around all the time and I've never lost one because of it. I usually only lose roses to winter kill here.
Agreed, Seil. Just regard it as normal planting and move at an appropriate time (winter) doing the usual bare-root thing (cutting back hard, lifting, transplanting during dormancy). If their is no effective winter dormancy, retain as much of the rootball as possible during the move.
I am beginning to think that Kordes roses are very good here in my hot, dry garden in Tuscany, Italy.To me, Harlekin's flowers are beautiful,and the mass display it gives is fantastic. Laguna is another one that gets a high vote for the way it covers itself in blooms. Jasmina did, too, but it's in a difficult spot and just put out so much green growth this year that the blooms were kind of limp (I think it's still getting established). bart
Yes I know hacking roses in the fall or early winter is not correct... I personally do mine in the Spring which I think is best...
But I will not fault someone else for doing things differently when they are still getting good results whether right or wrong...
Try telling someone that's getting good results there way is wrong...lol... Not me...lol
This post was edited by jim1961 on Thu, Jul 25, 13 at 23:23
Let me explain exactly why we get better results by not pruning in the fall (referring to heavy pruning of canes as opposed to just removing spent flowers).
1. All stem tissue contains stored nutrients.
2. When new growth comes, it will come at the highest point of the still-living part of stems.
3. Repeat-blooming roses such as hybrid teas, being naturally evergreen, can make premature new growth when warm spells occur in winter and early spring. This growth will freeze, wasting the stored energy spent on growing out and providing opportunity for canker fungus to attack the underlying cane.
4. If the rose has not been pruned, this wasted new growth will have been partly "funded" by nutrients stored in the upper part of the canes, nutrients that would have been thrown away if the rose had been pruned in fall.
5. If the rose was pruned severely in fall, premature growth will have to develop at the base of the plant, drawing on the core energy store in the crown, roots, and fat lower canes. Cankers that might develop at the base of the plant would be more damaging than those developing higher up.
6. In some circumstances, pruning cuts made in late fall can be directly invaded by canker fungi. One year I experimented with topping the plants in late November, and almost every cane was infected by botrytis canker. I think this happens because the plant's immune system is less active during dormancy.