22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Crimson Glory was another that my mother had!! Thanks. Haven't seen that one in years. Maybe that's the wonderfully pungent rose that I remember. I will find it and plant it.

p.s. It's nice to know that someone on this forum remembers the fifties..

andrea

In the 50's hybrid teas reigned supreme, valued for the large flower and high pointed center of the petal formation. The half open bud as it unfolds is still the picture of the ideal rose. Lots of these old favorites are still for sale every year. Might be the best place to start searching ;-)

Floribundas were very popular too, but they usually aren't very fragrant (there are a few exceptions). In those days some of the Pernetiana roses were still common, understandebly since they are the origin of the yellow and orange colours in modern roses. Some of them are very fragrant too. Today these are grouped with the hybrid teas, and some are still available.

Best of luck ;-)

This post was edited by taoseeker on Fri, Jul 26, 13 at 6:32

I would also looks love to see more pics of your bargins!

My clearance chocolate cosmos

I'm still trying to get a decent photo of my dahlias.

Two things to immediately reduce moisture loss:

1. Shade. Do it right now. Outdoor chairs are handy for shading.

2. Reduce foliar area. Do it right now. It is the leaves, not the canes, that lose water. I would start at the top of the canes and remove about half of the leaves. If the other leaves haven't unwilted by morning, take off some more.

It's easy to transplant roses when they are dormant, but much harder in the heat of summer.

Keep them well watered but be careful not to drown them either. Too much water can be as bad as too little. Shade and leaf removal will help keep them from wilting so much. Be patient. I've moved a lot of roses in the heat of summer and they do survive if you give them time to adjust. Do not fertilize them until you see good new growth on them. That will tell you that they've replaced their lost roots and are ready to be fed.

My moonstone was soooo picky.

Try 'Prairie Star' a Griffith J Buck shrub rose. Has a strong apple fragrance and holds up well to rain with some red spotting of the petals. It holds up well in dry conditions also. It is, like all white or light colored blooms, Japanese Beatle attractor if you are affected by them. It will last a long time after cut and in a vase and with debudding produces a nice flower. It is a constant bloomer and will produce flowers on a nice long stem with disbudding.
I also have found success with HT Pascali.

Thank you, Racin. I'm zone 5 and it's quite hardy here. It forms really substantial canes. I grow it as a freestanding shrub, but use mini-trellises and stakes to support some of the canes.

My first JG was grafted onto multiflora rootstock and became just what it was supposed to be : large and vase shaped and loaded with blooms.

It was simply wonderful and darned near broke my heart when it got RRD.

But I waited, and left the land fallow for two years and then replanted it, because it belongs where I'd chosen to plant it. And I will keep replanting it there if this replacement gets RRD, because it's that great a rose.

Lol, I do this too! They're actually handy for a lot things around the yard.

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Some Hybrid Teas - and to a lesser extent some floribundas - mutate ("sport" in rose parlance) into climbing forms. If these mutations turn out to be stable, they can be commercially produced. Not all varieties do this, of course, because it is dependent on the genetics of the original.

Climbing HTs and climbing floribundas have the same bloom,as the bush form . The major differences are, (1)the relatively longer canes on the climbing forms, and (2) that the blooms tend to appear on laterals rather than only at the terminals. Generally speaking, they tend to not bloom as profusely as the bush forms - although there are some exceptions. It is these characteristics, rather than the width of the plant, which differentiate the climbing form from the bush form.

"Tiffany" has a climbing form that is still in commercial production. Looking at your photo, I would say that is what you have.

The bush form of 'Tiffany' is tall and capable of producing basal canes up to about six feet long. I haven't seen the climbing sport, but a rough definition of "climber" is that it produces basal shoots > 7'. So the OP can tell which form he has by checking the unbroken length of basal shoots (that is, not counting laterals that came out at leaf joints after pruning or deadheading).

I have a friend who is an excellent gardener and she is a big believer in pruning almost every plant. I have started pruning back alot of things, even cutting blooms off annuals I buy - this takes the stress out of blooming and the plants can make roots - then bloom. It works great.

I have Knockouts, including the yellows which I love. I do prune them back and they just keep blooming. It neatens them up - I also disbud regularly. Dont give up on your roses. They are wonderful with the perennials you describe. Buy a Belinda's Dream if you can find one - totally disease free and blooms constantly. Find some composted manure [I raise horses so have lots], put on alfalfa pellets, cottonseed meal, use Miracle Gro and fish emulsion fertilizer........I have a Graham Thomas rose that has frustrated me with no blooms. A rose nursery told me to fertilize it with Carl Pool BR-61 - sure enough, it started blooming. Dont whack your roses back too much, maybe a third. Keep them watered then watch the new growth come on. It is amazing what roses will do when fertilized. I once read - roses are hogs - feed em. Roses make such a lovely addition to other annuals and perennials - I will bet with some pruning, watering and fertilizing, you will see good results. Be sure and water before you fertilize. Good luck!
Judith

Thanks for the help! I did deadhead them. But have not done much cutting besides that. I'll give it a try, plus the fertilizer.

I know of many people who have done what you describe with not problems. Not with teas, mind you, but just the same I don't think it will hurt them at all. I move my roses around all the time and I've never lost one because of it. I usually only lose roses to winter kill here.

Agreed, Seil. Just regard it as normal planting and move at an appropriate time (winter) doing the usual bare-root thing (cutting back hard, lifting, transplanting during dormancy). If their is no effective winter dormancy, retain as much of the rootball as possible during the move.

To my eyes the bloom is pretty. This is a rose that my husband planted a long time ago. It has actually risen to above the roof of the shop and lives year after year without receiving summer water.

I am beginning to think that Kordes roses are very good here in my hot, dry garden in Tuscany, Italy.To me, Harlekin's flowers are beautiful,and the mass display it gives is fantastic. Laguna is another one that gets a high vote for the way it covers itself in blooms. Jasmina did, too, but it's in a difficult spot and just put out so much green growth this year that the blooms were kind of limp (I think it's still getting established). bart

Score!!!!

The boss is thinking about hiring a guy to do the "collecting" part. I offered the trash cans and the hauling off part.

Bet the roses and the pumpkins will be happy. (and the compost bins will be full)

well, Sally, I would happily use (uncontaminated) manure from an animal which was essentially vegetarian but fresh faeces from a carnivore is just not going to happen (cos I do root around continually)......or I could just poo on them myself -and when my composting toilet is up and running in the woods, I will be using 'nightsoil'- but you can bet it will have composted down for half a year (and not used on edibles either). Perhaps the cat-litter does something to 'enhance' or remove the terrible whiffiness.....or perhaps our cats are just naturally stinky when crapping, (my old collie sure is) but I honestly admire your fortitude and can-do attitude.

I grew Beaute Inconstante from Vintage probably a decade ago. The blooms resembled photo 1 (quite small and shapeless). After a couple of years, it didn't improve and its long gone. The foliage was nice but the blooms were too small to satisfy me.

Yes, thonotorose, they are both Papa Gontier as it turns out. I have had the top one about a year, and it has never balled. Yesterday it put out the most gorgeous DARK red bloom. I think it is because i put about an inch of pine bark in the top of the pot a couple weeks ago. that combined with all the rain we've been having might account for the improvement in its' appearance. The lighter bloom is from plant number 2 (the one I bought as Papa gontier).

I think I'll put pine bark on that one also.

Cecily,
I have a genuine Beaute Inconstante on the way, so I hope the flowers grow to a decent size in Florida. I'm beginning to understand how a single variable can noticeably impact a plant.