22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I have a friend who is an excellent gardener and she is a big believer in pruning almost every plant. I have started pruning back alot of things, even cutting blooms off annuals I buy - this takes the stress out of blooming and the plants can make roots - then bloom. It works great.
I have Knockouts, including the yellows which I love. I do prune them back and they just keep blooming. It neatens them up - I also disbud regularly. Dont give up on your roses. They are wonderful with the perennials you describe. Buy a Belinda's Dream if you can find one - totally disease free and blooms constantly. Find some composted manure [I raise horses so have lots], put on alfalfa pellets, cottonseed meal, use Miracle Gro and fish emulsion fertilizer........I have a Graham Thomas rose that has frustrated me with no blooms. A rose nursery told me to fertilize it with Carl Pool BR-61 - sure enough, it started blooming. Dont whack your roses back too much, maybe a third. Keep them watered then watch the new growth come on. It is amazing what roses will do when fertilized. I once read - roses are hogs - feed em. Roses make such a lovely addition to other annuals and perennials - I will bet with some pruning, watering and fertilizing, you will see good results. Be sure and water before you fertilize. Good luck!
Judith
Hi forensicmom: There's a thread in the Antique Roses Forum on the same topic, see link below. Good luck, I hope it helps.
Here is a link that might be useful: Japanese Beetles thread
Hey Forensic Mom, aren't you in the DC area? I'm in northern VA along the I-95 corridor. My JBs are just about done for the year. The beetle bag went into the trash on Monday and I'm just catching a few strays in soapy water. Hang in there!
I wouldn't cut back anything, just water deeply since we haven't had much rain lately.
I know of many people who have done what you describe with not problems. Not with teas, mind you, but just the same I don't think it will hurt them at all. I move my roses around all the time and I've never lost one because of it. I usually only lose roses to winter kill here.
Agreed, Seil. Just regard it as normal planting and move at an appropriate time (winter) doing the usual bare-root thing (cutting back hard, lifting, transplanting during dormancy). If their is no effective winter dormancy, retain as much of the rootball as possible during the move.
I am beginning to think that Kordes roses are very good here in my hot, dry garden in Tuscany, Italy.To me, Harlekin's flowers are beautiful,and the mass display it gives is fantastic. Laguna is another one that gets a high vote for the way it covers itself in blooms. Jasmina did, too, but it's in a difficult spot and just put out so much green growth this year that the blooms were kind of limp (I think it's still getting established). bart
well, Sally, I would happily use (uncontaminated) manure from an animal which was essentially vegetarian but fresh faeces from a carnivore is just not going to happen (cos I do root around continually)......or I could just poo on them myself -and when my composting toilet is up and running in the woods, I will be using 'nightsoil'- but you can bet it will have composted down for half a year (and not used on edibles either). Perhaps the cat-litter does something to 'enhance' or remove the terrible whiffiness.....or perhaps our cats are just naturally stinky when crapping, (my old collie sure is) but I honestly admire your fortitude and can-do attitude.
Yes, thonotorose, they are both Papa Gontier as it turns out. I have had the top one about a year, and it has never balled. Yesterday it put out the most gorgeous DARK red bloom. I think it is because i put about an inch of pine bark in the top of the pot a couple weeks ago. that combined with all the rain we've been having might account for the improvement in its' appearance. The lighter bloom is from plant number 2 (the one I bought as Papa gontier).
I think I'll put pine bark on that one also.
Cecily,
I have a genuine Beaute Inconstante on the way, so I hope the flowers grow to a decent size in Florida. I'm beginning to understand how a single variable can noticeably impact a plant.
As far as Charles de Gaulle goes, I gave up on it own root after 3 years. Very weak and not a good recovery from winter. I still grow this variety, but from Palatine, and is a much better plant grafted than own root. How about Purple Beauty? I have that own root and it does really well. Not sure about the fragrance.......
Dearest Patrick (how goes?). Own root HTs are pooches here, and I don't recommend them. I much prefer grafted on R. multiflora. That said, I would think Neptune would be a good grower own root. It does well for me on Dr. Huey. Very fragrant, larger blooms than my Lagerfeld. Bon chance!
Seil, I checked the description of Crimson Bouquet and some pictures. Yes it looks very much like one! Wow! Thank you so much. Since you got yours from Costco as a two-pack thing, chances are even better! The other rose in the pack didn't make it for me either.
Again, thank you for giving my rose a name.
I don't disagree with what Seil says. I fertilize until Oct. 1, so that fertilizer is available until local roses wind down sometime in November.
If you fertilize with slow organic sources of nitrogen, you have little control over the amount of nitrogen in the soil moisture at a particular time. However, some N will continue to be released in the fall from spring and summer fertilizing. The rate of release will slow down as the temperature drops, which is fine because the plants will be using less nutrients anyway. I wouldn't apply slow organic fertilizer in the fall unless I expected roses to continue to grow through most of the winter.
Ants don't "eat" rose petals. As Michael said, something else chewed up the petals, releasing sap which is sugary. The ants eat that sugar, just as they eat the honey dew from aphids and other sucking insects. Figure out what chewed up the bloom, deal with it and you should prevent the ants from being attracted to the blooms.
I always had that issue with the green roses (Greensleeves, Mint Julep, Sheila MacQueen, etc.) as the petals were heaven for aphids. They would provide their honey dew after sucking out the sap from the petals and the flowers would be full of ants. I dealt with the aphids and the flowers were ant free. Kim
I better try to get a better photo. I keep on thinking thrips. I used to have absolutely TONS of aphids on my roses,but the blooms seemed fine. Then,these nasty Oxythyrea funesta beetles invaded. In hopes to get rid of them, I started spraying a systemic insecticide,Confidor.It did nothing to stop the beetles(if anything, made them stronger!) but got rid of the aphids completely. Now, I have all these crummy looking blooms on some of my light coloured roses. I've completely stopped spraying insecticide; I've gotten the impression that my roses began to look worse once I started spraying. But I could see using a systemic via irrigation on specific plants,if it would be effective against the specific scoundrel that's doing the damage.
I will try for a better photo,but it may have to wait for next year at this point; my rose season is basically over. regards and thanks, bart
My Goodness!
I am a newbie to rose growing, but my gosh some of those striped roses had me stopping in my tracks. Stranger, Simsalabim, Rembrandt Van Ryn, Rusty, and Red Intuition are amongst the loveliest stripes roses I've ever seen. Where on Earth did you find those? I've acquainted myself with many varieties through Rose Encyclopediae, but I can't recall anything quite like those.
That Isolde Hit is gorgeous as well.
Cheers,
Jay
Jay, as I mentioned above, SIMSALABIM and STRANGER are pretty much not available unless you can root a stem from the florist. REMBRANDT VAN RYN is from Hortico in Canada. RED INTUITION you can get either from Wisconsin Roses, or Palatine Roses (Canada). RUSTY may be available from Regan's. It comes from Certified Roses in Tyler Texas, so you might even find it at WalMart or Lowe's in bareroot season. Oops, I just checked Regan's and they do not list it for the 2014 season. Yikes, I also just looked at Certified Roses wholesale website, and they no longer list RUSTY! Bummer. It's a gorgeous rose.
Some Hybrid Teas - and to a lesser extent some floribundas - mutate ("sport" in rose parlance) into climbing forms. If these mutations turn out to be stable, they can be commercially produced. Not all varieties do this, of course, because it is dependent on the genetics of the original.
Climbing HTs and climbing floribundas have the same bloom,as the bush form . The major differences are, (1)the relatively longer canes on the climbing forms, and (2) that the blooms tend to appear on laterals rather than only at the terminals. Generally speaking, they tend to not bloom as profusely as the bush forms - although there are some exceptions. It is these characteristics, rather than the width of the plant, which differentiate the climbing form from the bush form.
"Tiffany" has a climbing form that is still in commercial production. Looking at your photo, I would say that is what you have.
The bush form of 'Tiffany' is tall and capable of producing basal canes up to about six feet long. I haven't seen the climbing sport, but a rough definition of "climber" is that it produces basal shoots > 7'. So the OP can tell which form he has by checking the unbroken length of basal shoots (that is, not counting laterals that came out at leaf joints after pruning or deadheading).