22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Yeah, I know about the knockouts being disease resistant, one of the main reasons they are super popular here. I'm even starting to come around to liking them. However, it's very humid here in NW Florida and its definitely stretched that resistance. She still has BS on them, just not as bad as some others around town and definitely nothing like my twigs. That's why I said I can't really know for sure if the Garden Safe works or if its just the resistance in the plants LOL.
:)
My twigs have until cooler weather to start behaving or they're gone. Plus, some of the problem was due to the grass in the yard getting out of hand and my entire house coming down with the plague and unable to weed or cut it. There was very little air circulation for my plants. Out of 40 roses, only 5 have been problem children so I am quite satisfied with the ones I picked. I'm more of a buy what you like person as I don't mind spending extra time on things I love. Spraying doesn't bother me as it gives me time to enjoy all the money I've shelled out this year.
Bayer Disease Control for Roses. . . etc. is probably the most effective product and will give you good control of blackspot if sprayed every two weeks. This is what I am using. Try Lowe's or online. The only "organic" fungicides that are likely to help much under severe conditions are copper products such as copper soap (Soap Shield). Copper should be handled with the same caution as synthetic fungicides. Also it can burn foliage. It is best sprayed at a time it will dry quickly, not at dusk or in the fog. I have used sulfur fungicide with some success, but only if I started at leaf-out and never missed a weekly spray--or more often during rainy spells.
Ah, Champlain I know, and I hope this one is as tough! The colors are like Champlain, but the petals aren't as tidy when the buds open. They're sort of wavy, if that makes any sense. I need to find some time to rifle through my rose book and see if I can find something to help me describe it.
Thanks though! At least it's a fun mystery.
When I used to run experiments on rose germination methods, I often used Miniature Rose 'Angel Rose', Rosa chinensis seeds. The resulting seedlings were then sold as a fundraiser at our local rose society spring sale. I do not remember anyone complaining about their plant. The seedlings spend several years as miniatures and then often grew into small climbers. See the link below for a discussion.
Here is a link that might be useful: Miniature Rose 'Angel Rose', Rosa chinensis seeds.
From reports about it from other pollen pimps, if it hasn't flowered in three years, I would suspect it probably isn't Wild Rover. It does create at least a 'semi climber', but it supposedly flowers easily. I've avoided it because of reported black spot issues. Kim
It's certainly the deadliest thing to ever hit MY roses. When we moved to the country, all I had time and evergy for were Knockouts, but there were five HTs here when we bought the place. I put in two dozen bushes five years ago. In the last year, I've removed six, and now I have two more that have to go. The HTs got it as badly as the Knockouts. No prevention, no cure, very sad.
I unwittingly spread it with my pruning shears when I was cutting back a bush that looked "funny" in late winter 2011. I neglected to sterilize the pruner between bushes and thank heaven, I only had time to do five more before a warm spring leafed out all the others and I decided not to finish them.
My rule of thumb is to prune weak roses as little as possible. The only source of energy for growth is leaves in sunlight, so fewer leaves = less growth.
But happy established roses can be pruned anytime from late winter to midsummer because they have ample stored energy to support regrowth.
This post was edited by michaelg on Mon, Jul 22, 13 at 9:39
Hi all,
A little mid-summer first season update. The roses I got after starting this thread - Eglantyne, Sharifa Asma, and The Alnwick Rose - are all planted, blooming and happy, but the garden isn't exactly photo-ready, partially because it continues to evolve. I've added three pink orphans whose names I don't know, as well as Winchester Cathedral, which practically jumped into my arms yesterday along with Graham Thomas (who now lives along the fence, not with the pink/white roses).
Part of the reason the garden isn't photo-ready is that the Japanese beetles and rabbits insist on participating in the gardening. The wretched beetles have helped me get over the reluctance to cut any flowers my mother instilled from birth, so I've had roses in the house. Oh darn! Here's a little picture, of Sharifa Asma, Alnwick and an orphan. I'll work out a better beetle plan at some point, but at least the leaves are all perfect, so hopefully the roses are getting established even if not covered in flowers. My dog did some rabbit control over the weekend, so maybe they'll take the hint. If not, at least they won't move in.
Thanks again for all of the coaching!
I'm not a cutsie sign addict either, Kippy. But I did like the three my middle sister got for our youngest sister (with the two little boys)...
Raising children is like getting pecked to death by a duck.
We believe in giving home-made gifts...which one of the children would you like?
and... Martha Stewart does NOT live here and it's a GOOD thing! Kim
We've had many different brands of pump sprayers' over the years (Chapin, Gilmour, Flo-master, Hudson). They've all given good service. We use different sprayers for different purposes (e.g, one sprayer for 'edibles', one for rose chemicals, one for herbicides , etc). Some of those are quite old but still work fine.
We prefer poly tanks. Metal tanks - even stainless steel ones - will spring a leak eventually. We also prefer poly wands - they do tend to bend annoyingly, but they don't break like the metal ones can.
If you take care of your tools, they will take care of you.
After each use, we triple rinse the tanks and then spray about half a tank of clear water at pressure. As needed during the season - depending on what materials we are spraying - we clean the nozzles and head fittings with a toothpick (metal tools can scratch). We lubricate the pumps before the beginning of the season according to the directions..
We NEVER store spray materials in the sprayer tank - we use it all up.
At the end of the season, we use an ammonia and water solution (1 cup/5 gallons) to thoroughly clean each of the garden sprayers. Supposedly, that solution will even remove tough herbicide residues. But we don't chance that - we reserve a separate sprayer for herbicides. Then we spray a tankful of clear water mixed with a tiny bit of oil, dry them out, and store them for the winter..
Try swapping out the spray nozzle that was included with it for a better quality spray nozzle. Depending on the model you might have to swap out the tubing and fittings coming from the tank to the nozzle but its worth it. I ordered the nozzles and most of the fittings I needed from www.spraynozzle.co
I like their blue plastic nozzle the best. It has about twice the flow rate and covers about twice as much area as the nozzle that came with my sprayer. But for me that's an added plus because I can cover more ground faster and the heavier mist is a little more wind resistant (a plus on the coast)
Here is a link that might be useful: Spray Nozzle
racin_rose,
I live in the San Francisco Bay Delta area. We have had many nights in mid or low 50s. I have had no problems with misshaped rose buds. It also has been getting hot
(90s and a few 102+s). Maybe that's the difference. Maybe you are not getting 'warm' daylight temps.
andrea
Thanks to both of you for the quick responses.
We've had one hot day so far, the rest have been in the 60s or low 70s. Every single night has been 50-53 and foggy...I'm really getting tired of it!
I'm not from here, I've lived here 3 years but was deployed most of last year. I asked DH, who is a native of WA, if this was normal. He said "no way."
Would hours and hours of hot sun have a similar effect on burgundy blooms? I planted a Burgundy Iceburg this Spring. The first bloom was absolutely picture perfect (although more of a burgundy than the website photo suggested). Since this was my first try at roses in about 30 years, I was thrilled. Now the plant is covered in blooms, but they are all running from medium pink to light pink. Pretty....but not at all what I was expecting. Although I thought I'd read that roses like sun, I had hypothesized that the blooms might simply be bleaching. Seemed rather far-fetched, but I couldn't come up with a better explanation.
Burgundy Iceberg is an exception to many of the heat, light and color rules. It's a mutation, which isn't an "on" or "off" proposition. Mutations fall along a continuum, varying greatly in their intensities. If you view Blush Pink Iceberg as the least "saturated" mutation; Brilliant Pink Iceberg as the moderate level of saturation and Burgundy Iceberg as the most saturated, then consider that these are not absolute points on the continuum, but short ranges along a longer line, stretching between pure white and pure burgundy. Some Blush Pink plants retain a lot of their blush pink tones in higher heat and light while many won't. The same holds true for the other two 'colors'. Some Brilliant Pink Iceberg seem to intensify with heat, while others quickly bleach to lighter tones. Burgundy Iceberg often does similarly. Some remain quite dark, expressing highly saturated pigments. Many others lose that saturation, expressing more of the Brilliant Pink traits. Those could be classified as either Brilliant Pink or Burgundy, depending upon when they are viewed.
Finding the precise expression of the mutation for color is much like finding the precise expression of the mutation for climbing in Icebergs. If you want a more dwarf, bushy plant that shouldn't grow to oversized proportions quickly, you look for one with very few, small to no prickles. The thornier the plant, the larger the prickles, the closer to a climbing plant it will mature to be as it's inherited genes which more closely perform to climbing size. If you desire a Brilliant Pink or Burgundy Iceberg which retains those colors in high heat and brilliant sun, you will be much more successful if you shop for canned, bud and bloom plants, in flower, somewhere they are exposed to higher heat and more brilliant sun. It's very common to walk rows of both and observe plants which range the gamut of color from white to nearly burgundy, even though each was propagated from the correct stock. They are just that variable. Kim
It seems not too many people have this rose. It looks lovely in the pictures though.