22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
From reports about it from other pollen pimps, if it hasn't flowered in three years, I would suspect it probably isn't Wild Rover. It does create at least a 'semi climber', but it supposedly flowers easily. I've avoided it because of reported black spot issues. Kim
It's certainly the deadliest thing to ever hit MY roses. When we moved to the country, all I had time and evergy for were Knockouts, but there were five HTs here when we bought the place. I put in two dozen bushes five years ago. In the last year, I've removed six, and now I have two more that have to go. The HTs got it as badly as the Knockouts. No prevention, no cure, very sad.
I unwittingly spread it with my pruning shears when I was cutting back a bush that looked "funny" in late winter 2011. I neglected to sterilize the pruner between bushes and thank heaven, I only had time to do five more before a warm spring leafed out all the others and I decided not to finish them.
My rule of thumb is to prune weak roses as little as possible. The only source of energy for growth is leaves in sunlight, so fewer leaves = less growth.
But happy established roses can be pruned anytime from late winter to midsummer because they have ample stored energy to support regrowth.
This post was edited by michaelg on Mon, Jul 22, 13 at 9:39
Hi all,
A little mid-summer first season update. The roses I got after starting this thread - Eglantyne, Sharifa Asma, and The Alnwick Rose - are all planted, blooming and happy, but the garden isn't exactly photo-ready, partially because it continues to evolve. I've added three pink orphans whose names I don't know, as well as Winchester Cathedral, which practically jumped into my arms yesterday along with Graham Thomas (who now lives along the fence, not with the pink/white roses).
Part of the reason the garden isn't photo-ready is that the Japanese beetles and rabbits insist on participating in the gardening. The wretched beetles have helped me get over the reluctance to cut any flowers my mother instilled from birth, so I've had roses in the house. Oh darn! Here's a little picture, of Sharifa Asma, Alnwick and an orphan. I'll work out a better beetle plan at some point, but at least the leaves are all perfect, so hopefully the roses are getting established even if not covered in flowers. My dog did some rabbit control over the weekend, so maybe they'll take the hint. If not, at least they won't move in.
Thanks again for all of the coaching!
I'm not a cutsie sign addict either, Kippy. But I did like the three my middle sister got for our youngest sister (with the two little boys)...
Raising children is like getting pecked to death by a duck.
We believe in giving home-made gifts...which one of the children would you like?
and... Martha Stewart does NOT live here and it's a GOOD thing! Kim
We've had many different brands of pump sprayers' over the years (Chapin, Gilmour, Flo-master, Hudson). They've all given good service. We use different sprayers for different purposes (e.g, one sprayer for 'edibles', one for rose chemicals, one for herbicides , etc). Some of those are quite old but still work fine.
We prefer poly tanks. Metal tanks - even stainless steel ones - will spring a leak eventually. We also prefer poly wands - they do tend to bend annoyingly, but they don't break like the metal ones can.
If you take care of your tools, they will take care of you.
After each use, we triple rinse the tanks and then spray about half a tank of clear water at pressure. As needed during the season - depending on what materials we are spraying - we clean the nozzles and head fittings with a toothpick (metal tools can scratch). We lubricate the pumps before the beginning of the season according to the directions..
We NEVER store spray materials in the sprayer tank - we use it all up.
At the end of the season, we use an ammonia and water solution (1 cup/5 gallons) to thoroughly clean each of the garden sprayers. Supposedly, that solution will even remove tough herbicide residues. But we don't chance that - we reserve a separate sprayer for herbicides. Then we spray a tankful of clear water mixed with a tiny bit of oil, dry them out, and store them for the winter..
Try swapping out the spray nozzle that was included with it for a better quality spray nozzle. Depending on the model you might have to swap out the tubing and fittings coming from the tank to the nozzle but its worth it. I ordered the nozzles and most of the fittings I needed from www.spraynozzle.co
I like their blue plastic nozzle the best. It has about twice the flow rate and covers about twice as much area as the nozzle that came with my sprayer. But for me that's an added plus because I can cover more ground faster and the heavier mist is a little more wind resistant (a plus on the coast)
Here is a link that might be useful: Spray Nozzle
racin_rose,
I live in the San Francisco Bay Delta area. We have had many nights in mid or low 50s. I have had no problems with misshaped rose buds. It also has been getting hot
(90s and a few 102+s). Maybe that's the difference. Maybe you are not getting 'warm' daylight temps.
andrea
Thanks to both of you for the quick responses.
We've had one hot day so far, the rest have been in the 60s or low 70s. Every single night has been 50-53 and foggy...I'm really getting tired of it!
I'm not from here, I've lived here 3 years but was deployed most of last year. I asked DH, who is a native of WA, if this was normal. He said "no way."
Would hours and hours of hot sun have a similar effect on burgundy blooms? I planted a Burgundy Iceburg this Spring. The first bloom was absolutely picture perfect (although more of a burgundy than the website photo suggested). Since this was my first try at roses in about 30 years, I was thrilled. Now the plant is covered in blooms, but they are all running from medium pink to light pink. Pretty....but not at all what I was expecting. Although I thought I'd read that roses like sun, I had hypothesized that the blooms might simply be bleaching. Seemed rather far-fetched, but I couldn't come up with a better explanation.
Burgundy Iceberg is an exception to many of the heat, light and color rules. It's a mutation, which isn't an "on" or "off" proposition. Mutations fall along a continuum, varying greatly in their intensities. If you view Blush Pink Iceberg as the least "saturated" mutation; Brilliant Pink Iceberg as the moderate level of saturation and Burgundy Iceberg as the most saturated, then consider that these are not absolute points on the continuum, but short ranges along a longer line, stretching between pure white and pure burgundy. Some Blush Pink plants retain a lot of their blush pink tones in higher heat and light while many won't. The same holds true for the other two 'colors'. Some Brilliant Pink Iceberg seem to intensify with heat, while others quickly bleach to lighter tones. Burgundy Iceberg often does similarly. Some remain quite dark, expressing highly saturated pigments. Many others lose that saturation, expressing more of the Brilliant Pink traits. Those could be classified as either Brilliant Pink or Burgundy, depending upon when they are viewed.
Finding the precise expression of the mutation for color is much like finding the precise expression of the mutation for climbing in Icebergs. If you want a more dwarf, bushy plant that shouldn't grow to oversized proportions quickly, you look for one with very few, small to no prickles. The thornier the plant, the larger the prickles, the closer to a climbing plant it will mature to be as it's inherited genes which more closely perform to climbing size. If you desire a Brilliant Pink or Burgundy Iceberg which retains those colors in high heat and brilliant sun, you will be much more successful if you shop for canned, bud and bloom plants, in flower, somewhere they are exposed to higher heat and more brilliant sun. It's very common to walk rows of both and observe plants which range the gamut of color from white to nearly burgundy, even though each was propagated from the correct stock. They are just that variable. Kim
A better question might be--why are the treatment options so limited? When I made my career choice 30 years ago I went into engineering rather than science--the job opportunities for talented scientists were dismal back them. They aren't any better today for budding scientists.
Even worse, folks with Asperger's, bright autistic kids that are our best hope at finding cures to rare diseases, aren't getting the opportunities to discover and excel in their gifts--like athletes. Instead, they now get opportunities to be "normal." Special classes and training at an early age to fit in with others. Might it make more sense to have a more accepting society of folks that are different--so they can use their gifts to benefit society? Or is that just not possible?
Like it or not, diseases evolve to evade our cures. Making it harder for companies to further research into new cures is counterproductive.
One possible answer to the question as to why are the treatment options so limited is that Nature only uses a limited number of biological pathways. Thus, something that affects a pathway in a fungus that affects plants will probably also affect a pathway of a fungus that affects humans. The same goes for other living things. The link below is a recent example of a chemical affecting pathways other than the intended pathway.
"Neonicotinoids and related pesticides may be suppressing the immune system of bees, bats and even amphibians, making them much more susceptible to parasites, viruses and fungal infections, according to an international team of researchers who recently published their findings in the Journal of Environmental Immunology and Toxicology.
Insects feeding on the pollen and nectar of crops treated with the pesticides absorb the chemicals and the poison is subsequently passed on to animals higher up the food chain that prey on those bugs, the scientists hypothesize, citing evidence of deviation from normal pathogen-host relationships."
Here is a link that might be useful: insecticide affecting immune systems higher up the food chain
Wow, Tessiess...
It's funny you say that because I am a rank amateur and I haven't killed anything I've gotten from Heirloom... Even spiteful Leonidas is hanging on. All the others but him have absolutely flourished. That should be proof enough that what you say is true...if I haven't killed them, they're quality plants.
I got two bands from RVR, a Francis Dubrueil and a Souvenir du Dr Jamain...they are so spindly I feel like it will be years before I enjoy them, if I can keep them alive.
Mine don't look diseased and they're about 3 times the height of my tallest Heirloom when I got it, but they're so...I don't know.
I sure hope they turn out ok...
The only time I can recall any business not offering their normal guarantee during a sale is, well never (although I am sure some businesses do this). I have heard of places selling items as/is when they go out of business but not in a regular sale. To me it just doesnt seem right to remove your guarantee during a "normal" sale. I am passing on this sale.
Saturate the rose with insecticide as a deterrent from April to October.
Why not cut the rose to about a foot tall, and saturate it there, so that the insecticide does not interfere with the good atmosphere you try to create without spray.
Oh, well. I do appreciate the article since the disease has affected so many of my roses.
Sammy
Try this combination: use Milorganic on the ground and tie cloths with Vicks on a few branches. I learned this from this forum. So far, this has keep my plants that are not fenced in safe from deer. You probably know: Milorganic is a fertilizer made from human sewage. You can get it from Home Depot. You can go fairly heavy on the Milorganic as it won't burn plants. I also have TONS of lavender, chive and mint. I think that my garden must smell nauseating to "my" deer...
I would be a lot madder than you, juleecat, if the deer had defoliated my roses that way. But keep an eye on your tomatoes. The deer love those and won't keep away from them. Good luck with your stomachs on stilts. Diane
If I still lived back in Connecticut and I had only a few roses and the jb's were bad I would put netting over the roses that I especially wanted to protect.