22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
You're right catsrose - thanks for catching a caveat to my advice above. I don't grow that many rugosas so I hadn't processed that they don't like pruning. Regardless, you're also right that it's a mistake to worry too much about shape in a relatively young rose. The bottom line Kelby is to check for reasons for the rose cane death or soil problems like Michael said, then just prune off the dead parts and give it basic care. The rose will decide what shape it wants to be and you can go from there.
Cynthia
I like the Green Rose and it does very well for me. I wish I had put it in a spot that shows it off more, altho one has to point it out to people, anyway, as they just assume it is out of bloom. I think of it as a bit backward, shy, humble, and feel rather protective of its self-esteem.
No, I haven't made any decisions. I don't know how anyone makes a decision about these things - there are just soooooo many varieties to choose from, it's sort of overwhelming.
I have, however, been having a good look around my suburb at what my neighbours are up to in terms of rose growing, trying to see what does well and what does not so well. So within a few streets of my house Crepuscule, Renae, Pinkie and Ballerina are all doing exceptionally well. There are a couple of Pierre de Ronsard's doing ok, the blooms are looking lovely but they're not growing very much and they have very little foliage, so I guess they're not exactly vigorous.
All of the hybrid tea varieties, however, and not doing too well - they have a few scattered blooms but the bushes are looking very leggy. I don't think they get enough sun up here to become bushy and healthy.
Josh,
Of the three roses you and Jacqueline3 are talking about which would be the best to help cover an 8'x16' trellis? I have ZD's all over the place, which are thornless and have a nice fragrance. I have a ZD already planted at one end and would like something else at the other end.
Thanks.
Tool
I thought that was a pretty good article. I liked the fact that they were practical about what to do and still optimistic. I know it's bad but I hate to think people will stop growing roses altogether because of it. And so much of what you read out there is all about dooms day!
Back before the rose industry imploded, Weeks was moving to own-root because (as Lynn mentioned) the art of budding was being lost. Older budders retired. Young people chose not to work on their knees in the fields, but to go to college. Understandably.
Tom Carruth told me that they were testing their roses, to see which would flourish on its own roots. Those that could not, they would likely drop.
So -- some just DON'T.
But, even if they do, sure, those roses are going to take some time -- at least an extra year -- to become mature plants. And, rather than that process taking place in rose fields in Wasco, it's taking place in your garden.
Jeri
It also depends on how you deadhead. Double Delight is a good bloomer and the blooms are beautiful but only for a couple of days after which they become faded and unattractive so I deadhead quickly. My Double Delight will have hopefully lots of buds and two or three great blooms but will never be covered like the ones in the picture.
I have had no problems using Fluazifop, the active ingredient in Grass-B-Gone (which is getting more difficult to find). I agree with annececelia, use it while the plants are dormant. For me, hand pulling is always the safest method, followed by an application of Preen, then newspaper, then mulch. Nothing is permanent, there will always be some manual work required.
I haven't used any of the products mentioned but do use Glyphosate (Round-up). I generally only apply it with small paint brushes to kill obnoxious plants, usually Quack grass, or places it is impossible to get a grip to be able to pull the roots (between rocks). If I spray I typically use small bottles like the ones eye glass cleaner comes in or used windex type bottles. I, like another poster suggested, use a shield to protect wanted plants.
Good luck.
SCG
Replant before growth starts, as soon as the soil thaws and is not too goopy--during a dry spell if possible. If you must work with heavy soil when wet, work it as little as possible and do not tamp! Use lots of water to settle after replanting. Prune the canes down past any brown center pith, which indicates winter damage. Preserve all the fleshy roots if you can.
They will bloom after replanting, but it is a setback. Do not cut flowers with long stems next summer, but just remove the faded flowers. All the stems and leaves help the plants build energy.
Make a surround with cobbles, bricks, whatever. At the drip line. Fill that with mulch. This is essentially a collar to hold protective insulating mulch to protect the crown from freeze. Garden centers even sell collars for this purpose. I grow lots of roses this way and they do just fine. You can replant next spring. And don't worry. Depending on our winter and which roses you are growing, they should be fine.
I spray with Bayer Advance for blackspot. If I miss spraying, it seems to not mind it too much and will shrug off any BP issues....not like some of the HTs. I quit spraying all of the roses in August, and it didn't seem to mind terribly, while some of the gang BP'd terribly.
Kim Said: ". . . no one is perfect everywhere."
And that, really, is the point. MY right rose is someone else's WRONG rose.
We do ourselves a disservice when we insist on planting roses that are wrong for our conditions, and trying to make them work by using chemical solutions.
When we, instead, find the right roses for our climate, and grow THOSE, we've given ourselves a leg up on success.
Jeri
Just to round off this discussion (since this thread has been brought up for recent consideration), sometimes you have to ask some posters what they mean when they use a certain term.
I have several times suspected that some posters who brag about being "non-sprayers" do use the Bayer drench which they classify as a non-spray--whereas "non-spray" to me means not using a fungicide, regardless of whether it is sprayed or drenched.
Similar confusion sometimes occurs over the terms "disease-resistant" or "BS-resistant." I have noticed several times that some posters seem to mean that as a result of spraying a fungicide, the rose had no disease problems. In other words, to them, a rose that has disease problems is a rose that was sprayed with a fungicide but still has BS problems. To me, BS-resistant would refer to a rose that is not sprayed or drenched (usually) and does not exhibit much BS problems most of the time.
Another area of confusion is pesticide or insecticide. The organic soil posters often include fungicides with those terms. To me, a pesticide/insecticide is different from a fungicide--so I would use two separate terms.
But I will confess to contributing to some of the confusion on occasion since by "disease-resistant," I mean "BS-resistant" (the main disease my roses contend with) 90% of the time, but about 10% of the time, I use "Disease-resistant" in the much broader designation--all or many diseases, and not just BS-resistant--although I think I always include BS resistant in that broader category. The California growers sometimes throw me when they talk about "disease-resistant" since they often do NOT have BS on their minds and therefore are not including it in the broader term.
So, yes, sometimes you just gotta ask what that person means. : )
Kate
Lol, Susan, that's a good way to look at it! I usually let winter take care of most of my leaves. Between the wind and early spring pruning I rarely have any left to pick off.
All a plant's energy for growth comes from green leaves in the sunshine. Some of this energy is stored for regrowth in the spring. Any leaves that are still functioning are performing a valuable service and should be left alone until the plant shuts down for winter.