22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I'm not a cutsie sign addict either, Kippy. But I did like the three my middle sister got for our youngest sister (with the two little boys)...

Raising children is like getting pecked to death by a duck.

We believe in giving home-made gifts...which one of the children would you like?

and... Martha Stewart does NOT live here and it's a GOOD thing! Kim

Check with your HOA first before posting any visible signs.

We've had many different brands of pump sprayers' over the years (Chapin, Gilmour, Flo-master, Hudson). They've all given good service. We use different sprayers for different purposes (e.g, one sprayer for 'edibles', one for rose chemicals, one for herbicides , etc). Some of those are quite old but still work fine.

We prefer poly tanks. Metal tanks - even stainless steel ones - will spring a leak eventually. We also prefer poly wands - they do tend to bend annoyingly, but they don't break like the metal ones can.

If you take care of your tools, they will take care of you.

After each use, we triple rinse the tanks and then spray about half a tank of clear water at pressure. As needed during the season - depending on what materials we are spraying - we clean the nozzles and head fittings with a toothpick (metal tools can scratch). We lubricate the pumps before the beginning of the season according to the directions..

We NEVER store spray materials in the sprayer tank - we use it all up.

At the end of the season, we use an ammonia and water solution (1 cup/5 gallons) to thoroughly clean each of the garden sprayers. Supposedly, that solution will even remove tough herbicide residues. But we don't chance that - we reserve a separate sprayer for herbicides. Then we spray a tankful of clear water mixed with a tiny bit of oil, dry them out, and store them for the winter..

Try swapping out the spray nozzle that was included with it for a better quality spray nozzle. Depending on the model you might have to swap out the tubing and fittings coming from the tank to the nozzle but its worth it. I ordered the nozzles and most of the fittings I needed from www.spraynozzle.co

I like their blue plastic nozzle the best. It has about twice the flow rate and covers about twice as much area as the nozzle that came with my sprayer. But for me that's an added plus because I can cover more ground faster and the heavier mist is a little more wind resistant (a plus on the coast)

Here is a link that might be useful: Spray Nozzle

racin_rose,

I live in the San Francisco Bay Delta area. We have had many nights in mid or low 50s. I have had no problems with misshaped rose buds. It also has been getting hot
(90s and a few 102+s). Maybe that's the difference. Maybe you are not getting 'warm' daylight temps.

andrea

Thanks to both of you for the quick responses.

We've had one hot day so far, the rest have been in the 60s or low 70s. Every single night has been 50-53 and foggy...I'm really getting tired of it!

I'm not from here, I've lived here 3 years but was deployed most of last year. I asked DH, who is a native of WA, if this was normal. He said "no way."

Would hours and hours of hot sun have a similar effect on burgundy blooms? I planted a Burgundy Iceburg this Spring. The first bloom was absolutely picture perfect (although more of a burgundy than the website photo suggested). Since this was my first try at roses in about 30 years, I was thrilled. Now the plant is covered in blooms, but they are all running from medium pink to light pink. Pretty....but not at all what I was expecting. Although I thought I'd read that roses like sun, I had hypothesized that the blooms might simply be bleaching. Seemed rather far-fetched, but I couldn't come up with a better explanation.

Burgundy Iceberg is an exception to many of the heat, light and color rules. It's a mutation, which isn't an "on" or "off" proposition. Mutations fall along a continuum, varying greatly in their intensities. If you view Blush Pink Iceberg as the least "saturated" mutation; Brilliant Pink Iceberg as the moderate level of saturation and Burgundy Iceberg as the most saturated, then consider that these are not absolute points on the continuum, but short ranges along a longer line, stretching between pure white and pure burgundy. Some Blush Pink plants retain a lot of their blush pink tones in higher heat and light while many won't. The same holds true for the other two 'colors'. Some Brilliant Pink Iceberg seem to intensify with heat, while others quickly bleach to lighter tones. Burgundy Iceberg often does similarly. Some remain quite dark, expressing highly saturated pigments. Many others lose that saturation, expressing more of the Brilliant Pink traits. Those could be classified as either Brilliant Pink or Burgundy, depending upon when they are viewed.

Finding the precise expression of the mutation for color is much like finding the precise expression of the mutation for climbing in Icebergs. If you want a more dwarf, bushy plant that shouldn't grow to oversized proportions quickly, you look for one with very few, small to no prickles. The thornier the plant, the larger the prickles, the closer to a climbing plant it will mature to be as it's inherited genes which more closely perform to climbing size. If you desire a Brilliant Pink or Burgundy Iceberg which retains those colors in high heat and brilliant sun, you will be much more successful if you shop for canned, bud and bloom plants, in flower, somewhere they are exposed to higher heat and more brilliant sun. It's very common to walk rows of both and observe plants which range the gamut of color from white to nearly burgundy, even though each was propagated from the correct stock. They are just that variable. Kim

Wow, Tessiess...

It's funny you say that because I am a rank amateur and I haven't killed anything I've gotten from Heirloom... Even spiteful Leonidas is hanging on. All the others but him have absolutely flourished. That should be proof enough that what you say is true...if I haven't killed them, they're quality plants.
I got two bands from RVR, a Francis Dubrueil and a Souvenir du Dr Jamain...they are so spindly I feel like it will be years before I enjoy them, if I can keep them alive.
Mine don't look diseased and they're about 3 times the height of my tallest Heirloom when I got it, but they're so...I don't know.
I sure hope they turn out ok...

The only time I can recall any business not offering their normal guarantee during a sale is, well never (although I am sure some businesses do this). I have heard of places selling items as/is when they go out of business but not in a regular sale. To me it just doesnt seem right to remove your guarantee during a "normal" sale. I am passing on this sale.

Try this combination: use Milorganic on the ground and tie cloths with Vicks on a few branches. I learned this from this forum. So far, this has keep my plants that are not fenced in safe from deer. You probably know: Milorganic is a fertilizer made from human sewage. You can get it from Home Depot. You can go fairly heavy on the Milorganic as it won't burn plants. I also have TONS of lavender, chive and mint. I think that my garden must smell nauseating to "my" deer...

I would be a lot madder than you, juleecat, if the deer had defoliated my roses that way. But keep an eye on your tomatoes. The deer love those and won't keep away from them. Good luck with your stomachs on stilts. Diane

How small do you want it to be? Anything under about 4 x 4 is going to be a lost cause.

Pruning it down hard after the heat breaks is definitely an option. Plan on doing a similar pruning next spring. It doesn't bloom on old wood, but rather on what could be called fruiting spurs off the old wood. So even if it is cut back very hard, it will bloom. With a lot of once-blooming OGRs, this is what could be called exhibition pruning, since it produces fewer flowers, but those are larger, with much better stems. After flowering, it will try to grow ginormous again, and needs another fairly drastic pruning.

Thank you so much for the help. I will try pruning it back some. I don't want to keep it to as little as 4 x 4, but I wouldn't mind 5 x 5 or 6 x 6, instead of the estimated 8 x 8 it is now. I think a lot of the beauty is in that fountain shape it makes, but I'd be OK with a smaller fountain, and I'm thrilled that I won't lose the bloom next year by giving it a haircut this year. Thanks again. You people are great.

Wow, what a morning,

Talked to my neighbor, I see their big house wall from my front window and we agreed it's OK for planting rose climbers. This is a northern exposure so I immediately thought of Sally Holmes, two of them probably.

While calling the nursery they mentioned having Renae, so I'm going down to take a look at her, perhaps to replace Cecile Brunner. These roses are on 5' stakes and 5 gal. cans, ready to go.

I hear Renae can grow in shade, wondering if I should mix her in with Sally Holmes on north wall?

She's a little tall from what I know for my back wall originally posted which does get some sun, but what the heck.

I was ready to pull the trigger on the band of Clair Matin, but maybe Renae is meant to be....

Anybody grow Renae?

Thanks, Hollie

Went to the nursery, bought 2 big Sally Holmes.

I saw Renae but didn't think much of her because her bloom size was small and didn't have any form. Perhaps I caught this rose at the wrong time but she didn't look great.

They had large Eden, a dark pink Brite Eyes and that's about it for pink roses.

I'm back on Social Climber again because I feel her medium pink blooms will look better as cut flowers with my décor than pale pink. There are HTs growing all around the back wall where I intend to pull out Cecile, and I've cut some med. pink flowers for the house, they look great.

So I sure hope Social Climber works for me....

Hollie

They are sneaky. They grow as soon as you stop looking.

Enjoy! :)

Thank you for the advice
I will be covering that black plastic. I try to check every day to see if they need to be watered.I absolutely adore the roses cant wait to see them grow.

Roses and vegetables are generally susceptible to a lot of pests and diseases, because people value them so much that they planted them all over the world and selected them for qualities other than being tough and self-sufficient.

I planted some grafted heirloom tomatoes this year...Brandywine & Mortgage Lifter. Most of my roses are grafted, but I had never really thought about grafted vegetables before. So many of the heirloom tomatoes are weak plants, but grafted on better root stock mine have done exceptionally well. What a difference the grafting has made. Those tomato plants are huge and by far out producing my other "own root" tomato plants.

IF it is a freshly planted or new-this-year rose, shading it with something (umbrella, shade cloth on some sticks) will reduce stress and likely prevent that drooping. Next year when its root system is more established, it will be better able to handle summer heat.

It sounds like heat and water stress. Give it some shade any way you can and keep watering it well in these hot dry days. Even some of my older more established roses have wilted a bit on very hot afternoons and I haven't been nearly as hot as you and our humidity is very high. That humidity doesn't seem to help them at all and I still have to water frequently.

Is that dark red foliage new shoots coming? A lot of roses have reddish new growth that greens up as it matures fully.

I also found that first year, it seemed to do a lot of nothing and the flowers were weak in the stem, though fragrant for me. The second and third years have been wonderful, and I'm glad I nurtured her along. Black spot is a problem, so keep her airy and be vigilant; I also feel like she benefits from working crushed eggshells into the soil.

Here is a link that might be useful: Striped Rose Diaries

I've planted Scentimental twice. The first one was much like many described, with blooms shattering very quickly. I had it for three summers and it was never all that great. I lost it to an accident and replaced it in same location (Glutton for punishment? I really wanted a striped rose in that spot!).

The new plant seemed a weakling for the first year and also the blooms shattered quickly. This second year it's a redeemed itself proudly. More blooms, all around nicer color and striping, and best of all they last a good long time. Right now it has a couple fine clusters holding up well to humid, 90+ heat. The bush is somewhat small but healthy and well formed.

Funny thing is I never found either one to be all the fragrant.